The Third Quarter Of New York Fashion Week: "China Japan": "International Tide" Shows The International Fashion Context.

What is the culture of contemporary Chinese youth?

How to answer it through the carrier of fashion is a big proposition that "China Japan" entered the third quarter.

The theme of this "China day" is "YOUTH MADE CHINA". It is a representative brand of contemporary youth culture in China PEACEBIRD MEN and the first local brand integration store NPC in China.

Two brands that have been commercially successful in China are very good at grasping the balance between fashion and business.

The third quarter "China day" was followed by Suntchi in February 7, 2018 and September 10th, after the two fashion of "New York fashion week China day", which was held by the American Fashion Designers Association (CFDA), the third time of Chinese brands in New York fashion Zhou Liangxiang.

Suntchi, founder and CEO, hopes that every season's "China day" can bring different Chinese designs and Chinese fashion to the North American market. The theme of the first season is the first appearance of Chinese brands on the global fashion week stage in the name of "National Day". The second quarter explores the "Women s Power". The theme of the third season is "Youth Made China" - focusing on local youth culture. The common sense of the three season is obvious, reflecting the cultural confidence of local fashion brands and inspiring more original local brands.

"China Japan" has a complete brand selection mechanism. We hope that the selected brands will represent the real Chinese design best, representing the current Chinese consumers' dress and aesthetics.

Fang Tao said.

"This year's theme is located in youth culture, because in the past period of time, we have found many outstanding Chinese youth.

They have made outstanding achievements in various fields and left us with a very deep impression.

Many young designers have also sprung up in the field of fashion, creating excellent works.

These young people are representatives of China's millennial generation and the Z generation, so we hope that this season can bring this crowd and the Chinese brand that express this crowd to the world.

In CFDA's view, the "China Japan" effect continued to be strengthened this quarter.

"Youth culture is a very suitable theme for this season's" China Japan ". We are looking forward to understanding the Chinese youth through the two brands of this season.

Steven Kolb, chief executive and chief executive of CFDA, said.

The three quarter "China day" clothing products are also assembled into a special retail exhibition called "Nordstrom Celebrates China Day", which was held in the middle grade city of New York in the near future. It was hosted by Nordstorm Men 's Store NYC in the high-end department store in downtown New York. During the first two days of the "China Japan" show and the next week, consumers and the participants in the fashion week of the White House could see six brands and products that participated in the "China Japan" designer, so that "China Japan" could be extended to the retail end and hit the mass consumers.

"This time, with the support of Nordstrom, we made a special exhibition of Chinese designers and brands during the Chinese New Year.

This is the first time a Chinese brand has cooperated with the largest retailer in North America in such a way. It is also a useful attempt for "China Japan".

In the future, we hope that Chinese designers and brands will have extensive and in-depth cooperation with North American retailers, not only in the fashion week, but also in the business field.

This cooperation with Nordstrom is the beginning of promoting business development. "

Fang Tao said.

Inclusive, diverse, more flexible and commercialized New York fashion week has gradually become a breakthrough for local designers who want to give consideration to fashion and commerce.

In the first quarter of 2018, after the New York Fashion Week "China day", the concept of "chao chao" was mentioned more widely. In 2019, it was even regarded as a year of Chinese fashion trend.

And the brand PEACEBIRD MEN and NPC participating in this week's fashion week also show the different paths of local brand development.

The trend awakening of PEACEBIRD MEN comes from the core strategy of the commercial brand in the past few years, and has become an important local trend force for the mass market.

NPC was founded by Li Chen NIC and Willber Pan ten years ago. At first, through the influence of two people as stars, NPC established a medium-sized retail network, and it was also the first to capture the trend culture business opportunities.

The concept of "China" is expressed through the theme of the trend, making the third quarter "China day" more distinct and focused in style.

Rethinking cross border joint names and developing a new PEACEBIRD MEN with a new trend

Youth is the most intuitive impression of PEACEBIRD MEN's show.

Taiping bird has chosen to collaborate with Gucci, a popular artist Trouble Andrew (Guccighost), Instagram artist REILLY, and a large cartoon IP Sesame Street jointly designed three core logo throughout the season.

How to make people see the famous Sesame Street, the graffiti of Trouble Andrew, and the works of REILLY, a spoof brand, is what PEACEBIRD MEN wants to break through this time.

"We want to break the original image on the basis of foundation, so that we can be more energetic and create a new foundation."

Xu Ying, design director of PEACEBIRD MEN explained.

Frankly, she told BoF that the original idea was more planar and completely different from the final presentation of metal accessory products.

Trouble Andrew's street graffiti style, the elements of Chinese calligraphy, and the interesting Sesame Street Style collide with a new spark, which is strongly contrasted with the concept of punk.

"Taiping bird has given me a lot of creative space. Sesame Street icon has put in many avant-garde elements, a little rebellious, and contrasted with the traditional Sesame Street."

Trouble Andrew said.

Trouble Andrew, who brought his son to see the show, flew from California to see the show. After the show, he also shared personal understanding of fashion and fashion with BoF.

"In my understanding, fashion dress has always been a part of fashion. I am not very cold on luxury goods. I think streetwear is my fashion language."

Through the Sesame Street cooperation, Taiping bird has completed a new thinking of "joint cross-border" which has become a normal form.

"The last thing I want to do is to consume you, and you consume me."

Wang Mingfeng, general manager of PEACEBIRD MEN, said.

"Truly successful joint partnership should be effectively re created, breaking the original cognition.

If there is no new thing, the result of cooperation will not become part of the brand, it is just a hammer deal. "

After more than ten years in the Pacific bird, Xu Ying, who is very familiar with the brand, also believes that PEACEBIRD MEN should show more things belonging to the brand itself.

For example, the elements of Chinese calligraphy added to it are actually not very old, but they can also be very cool.

"Xu Ying said.

Wang Mingfeng even hoped that Xu Ying would be more daring to create breakthroughs. He believed that the brand needed to accelerate its pace to keep pace with the development of consumers on the international stage. He did not want to solidify the brand positioning, otherwise consumers would produce aesthetic fatigue and the brand would naturally not go down.

"Everyone can see the pformation of Valentino, Gucci and Balenciaga. We can't use a positioning frame to live in ourselves, and the brand should be richer.

Although creativity is a must, the brand needs to be able to land. If you are a business brand, you have to believe in a simple thing, and consumers have no obligation to vote for you. This is a real problem.

He said.

The Pacific bird takes part in "China Japan" to better understand this stereoscopic Pacific bird consumer, no matter how small the public is.

"Our team has an unwritten rule. After getting the data analysis, we need to see both sides of the data. Designers should know how to push and guide consumers, and we need to find the right degree. If we keep on pleasing consumers, it is a very repetitive thing.

Many people will find that fashion is really not standard, because there is no standard, so it is very important for a designer to grasp the fire.

Wang Mingfeng added.

Wang Mingfeng believes that the tide brand should be bold to "go to sea".

"Of course, we also want to walk out more, so that more consumers feel that Taiping bird is good. We are in line with the international trend, and we can make our own things.

But this time, the more important thing is to do a good job of the brand. We must consider the problem from the perspective of consumers.

He said.

In the European and American markets, Instagram almost replaced magazines as the most important fashion media, which made many fashion brands become "media platforms" for content making. This time, PEACEBIRD MEN, who participated in New York fashion week, also realized this.

"We will regard ourselves as a media this time, and show is our" news conference ". Through this centralized release, we can make our publications" products into every life scene of every fashionable consumer, and bring them strength. "

Xu Ying concluded.

PEACEBIRD MEN, the main line of men's clothing, will continue its fashion pformation path, focusing on the lifestyle products extended by this fashion show.

"We want to make the Pacific birds more fulfilling, not just the clothes themselves."

He said.

"Chao chao" NPC's New York debut

Although NPC is somewhat unfamiliar to the audience in New York, choosing the "moon landing 50th anniversary" as the theme of New York's first show has quickly broken through the cultural gap.

"We feel that NPC 10th anniversary has to do something special, and there is a strong desire to make great changes.

"Li Chen NIC said.

Li Chen NIC thinks that "New York's gas field is different". Participating in a professional fashion market is largely a cognitive improvement. Besides, on a stage of fashion week, it can also make a more conceptual attempt to complete the breakthroughs in different forms of artistic creation.

Before deciding to take part in "China Japan", NPC decided that the theme of autumn and winter in 2019 would be related to "outer space".

From Armstrong's landing on the moon to Michael Jackson's "walking on the moon", the greatest advantage and difficulty of the space theme is that it is not restricted. The brand even chooses "weightlessness" as an important key word.

"The gravitational state that can not be grasped by gravity is very attractive to me.

Besides, I remember that before you would say that Armstrong's landing on the moon is a conspiracy theory. I didn't expect that humans began to doubt themselves.

If we look at the brand from the perspective of brand, it is easy for us to start self doubt after ten years. But at this time, if we insist on our ideas, our original ideas and grasp it, I will not go too far.

Willber Pan explained his more personal interpretation.

Li Chen NIC's thinking is more optimistic: "weightlessness may be a wandering state, but you actually know where to go."

"You spend a lot of time trying to end up believing that one person can easily believe you, but you know that you are doing something great enough for yourself. We really hope that more young people will not escape from this state, instead of simply rebelling.

Maybe many young people think treason is personality because they don't know that creativity is not so simple behind us, so we have more responsibility to let them know the necessity of hard work.

Li Chen NIC added.

Although the stars of two people are eye-catching, next NPC is more concerned about the new generation of young people how to treat a local trend brand.

NPC's cooperation with the Imperial Palace's court culture and national tide brand also has some different meanings.

This NPC provides a more three-dimensional local trend perspective from the joint series of local original trend brands PHANTACi, ANB BRAND, the MAD HATcher and UMAMIISM from all over the country.

Li Chen NIC believes that working in New York with creative teams is also a challenge to brand management.

"Don't underestimate the difficulty of making a dress."

Li Chen NIC said, "Nothing great comes easy" (journey to the sky) has also become the theme of this season.

Li Chen NIC prefers to emphasize that a good brand needs stronger resources integration capability.

"We are not designers. We have built NPC for so long. We rely more on integrating resources.

Before we came to New York, when almost all factories in Shanghai were closed, we rushed out the samples on the last day before the Spring Festival.

Later, in New York, this kind of coordination is a step closer. They are all artists and personalities, and coordination is also an art. "

Li Chen NIC said.

He also said frankly that tide cards need more consideration.

"For example, we respect the stylist, but we will say in advance which styles have been placed, and which ones are more likely to be exposed."

Li Chen NIC also brought New York's e-commerce operation team to New York. "I hope you can go to see which products can be purchased, which can be synchronized under the online and offline, and which can be extended.

The business brand still has this kind of thinking, this is still placed in the second step, the matter completes, the result will naturally appear.

Li Chen NIC said.

In recent years, Li Chen Nic has gradually infiltrated into the management of brand background management, and has reorganized the supply chain and the retail network under the online and offline businesses, and has laid the foundation for the commercialization of NPC.

There are multiple possibilities for New York fashion week to bring changes to the brand. Li Chen NIC also looks at the return on investment of this fashion show rationally.

"Because we are stars, many of our costs are saved. We also know where to put the investment back, and hope that the domestic market can catch up with this wave of traffic."

Enhance the international influence of local youth culture and build a more perfect platform for Sino US exchanges.

The value of "China day" lies not only in bringing Chinese designers and brands to the stage of fashion week, but also in creating dialogue and interaction with North American market.

In the case of conditions, we will further promote Chinese designers and brands to enter the main retail system in North America, and form a close cooperation from the product and sales level.

Fang Tao said.

In last season's "China day", with the support of CFDA, Centrino fashion launched a stylish IP resource platform called "Shang Jiao FASHION EXCHANGE". More than 200 American men's wear, women's wear, jewellery and designer brands have entered this platform.

Steven Kolb, chief executive officer and chief executive officer of CFDA, also told BoF that Sino US brand interaction can stimulate more possibilities, and for those who want to come to the United States, they can quickly link up with the core of the fashion industry here.

Over the past two quarters, "China Japan" has been diversifying its activities, including Showroom China Day Showroom, China Japan Forum (China Day Talk) and China Daily flash store (China Day Pop-up Market), presenting China's fashion and brand to the world in an all-round way. It has also aroused great concern and heated debate at home and abroad. The first quarter "China Japan" led Lining, Taiping bird, Yan and Yu four different styles of Chinese brands to visit New York, attracting more than 800 international industry authorities and more than 300 top international media attention.

The release of "China day" has gained 1 billion 500 million exposure of the international media, and the discussion volume of over 20 million of micro-blog's domestic topics has triggered the "China Japan effect" in the markets of both China and the United States.

In the third quarter, the idea of how to internationalize Chinese fashion and establish an exchange mechanism between China and the US began to turn from lively to rational thinking.

"China Japan" hopes to see the world as a "mainland" and a "world" Chinese fashion by New York, which is the most suitable international soil for Chinese fashion.

The two choices are focused on the brand positioning of "Chinese youth" in the "China Japan". Fang Tao hopes that "China Japan" will continue to build a more perfect Sino US exchange mechanism and create more commercial value.

Obviously, it is appropriate to carry out international thinking in the context of New York.

This coincides with Wang Mingfeng's thinking. "We want to be more intuitive to internalize the popularity of the world, and finally make our own things. On the other hand, many people's impression of the Chinese market actually stayed ten years ago. We want to show you the different Chinese brands in the development process."

He said.

Another major breakthrough this season is the rational thinking of the "national tide" at the same time.

"Fashion brands are basically Street oriented. I hope that through this" China day ", NPC will start to internationalize.

Li Chen NIC said.

He believes that the national tide must truly go to the international arena and needs a complete framework. This is not a brand's appearance.

"In artistic form, there is also a need for different breakthroughs."

He said.

Although the theme of this season is YOUTH MADE CHINA, whether it is the designer brand or commercial brand that participated in the first two seasons, from a long-term perspective, "China Japan" can truly inspire more local brands to return products, improve brand positioning, and integrate the brand operation mode with the international market, so that the western world can change the existing thinking of "Chinese brand" and make a real breakthrough in Chinese fashion and Chinese design.

Author: BoF Team