Kanye West:Yeezy Will Become The Hermes In Sportswear.
The success of Yeezy has become the consensus of the industry in the past 5 years, but Kanye West obviously has greater ambitions for the brand.
According to Vogue USA, rap singer Kanye West will launch a young creative talent incubation project to provide financial support and professional guidance for talents in fashion design and other fields.
The first member to be supported is Maisie Schloss, a former member of the Yeezy women's wear design team who graduated from the Parsons Institute of the United States. She will create a personal brand Masie Wilen with the support of the project. He will make his debut in a private event in Losangeles next week, and then hold a fashion show in Paris at the end of June.
The series includes 85 single items ranging from $100 to $900.
Masie Schloss told Vogue that Yeezy provides a very special career development environment.
Initially, she was only an assistant, but highly creative and breaking the traditional working atmosphere allowed her to contribute and gain popularity in various projects.
She said that Kanye West was very supportive of her. He would share his resources and provide opportunities for creative talents to grow and gain recognition.
Since the launch of the Yeezy brand in 2014, Kanye West has recruited a large number of young creative talents for its studio, such as archival manager David Casavant and stylist Ursina Gysi, and now the famous Off-White founder Virgil Abloh and Fear Fear are also from the team.
Last year, Virgil Abloh, which first worked with Kanye West in Fendi, became a creative director of Louis Vuitton men's clothing last year, becoming one of the top speakers in the fashion industry.
With the past of the era of star creative director, people began to hope for new talents who have not yet been excavated, and bring endless impetus to innovation for the brand.
The latest plan of Yeezy is exactly the same as that of Calvin Klein's latest marketing plan.
Last month, Marie Gulin-Merle, chief marketing officer of PVH group, the parent company of Calvin Klein, announced an InCKubator marketing plan in an internal memorandum.
The InCKubator program aims to convene external creative talents, conduct various forms of cooperation in fashion and retail space, and launch four to six cooperation projects for different consumer groups annually.
The team was led by Greg Baglione, senior director of global strategy and business development, and invited some young employees in the group to participate.
It is obvious that Yeezy and Calvin Klein want to inject greater vitality into the brand with the help of creative community, and not just rely on the personal power of the traditional creative director.
Calvin Klein's attempt to upgrade the brand to the star creative director proved to be a failure. After the departure of the former creative director Raf Simons, he changed his position.
The Yeezy of Kanye West is also at the peak stage after the peak, and it is badly in need of new growth momentum.
Last August, Adidas CEO Kasper Rorsted said at a conference call with shareholders that Adidas will increase the output of Yeezy sports shoes.
This means that after gaining high attention and brand value through the Yeezy series, Yeezy began to enter the stage of scale income.
"Kanye has expressed his desire for the popularity of Yeezy brand many times, and we share the same desire to make this vision a reality."
At the moment, Kanye West has finally realized his repeated commitment that one day Yeezy will serve every consumer.
Although adidas has never released the production and sales data of Yeezy, there are people in the industry who expect Yeezy's valuation to reach US $1 billion 500 million.
Last year, Kanye West revealed that its brand valuation was about $1 billion, which means that Yeezy's valuation increased by 500 million dollars in just six months.
Last year was a year of intense competition in the sports shoes market. The attention of consumers was snatched away by more sports shoes. The trend of retro sports was gradually weakened by Adidas, and rival Nike began to fight back. The old shoes suddenly became popular. Luxury brands also hoped to have a share in the sports shoes business.
Consumers are constantly catching up with the novelty, and the aesthetic fatigue of the Yeezy series is also expected.
Before the new burst was created, the two level of consumer demand that had not been purchased by Yeezy was able to boost the exposure and performance of the brand.
But this is obviously not a permanent solution.
With the rapid growth of Yeezy production, there is ample inventory in major sales channels, and the price of resale websites is no different from the original price. Young consumers no longer crave Yeezy as they used to.
Such a spectacle was almost unthinkable after Kanye West and Adidas joined forces in February 2015.
The injection of new blood into Yeezy has become logical.
By absorbing new creative talents, Kanye West can make up for its shortcomings.
The focus of the fashion industry's criticism on Kanye West and Virgil Abloh has been that the two have not received professional learning.
Virgil Abloh studied architecture, and Kanye West was rejected by the central Saint Martin fashion design major in 2011.
There are many designers who have not received professional training in fashion history, but this does not prevent Wakubo Rei and other designers from becoming important figures in the history of design.
But if Wakubo linger understood fashion at the time, she saw the work of print masters and tailors, and the Virgil Abloh and Kanye West in the Internet era understood fashion through pictures.
The "outsider" perspective of Virgil Abloh and Kanye West has changed the logic of the fashion industry to a great extent.
The designer who receives information from the marketing end also designs clothes through marketing logic, which seems more reasonable.
Such a way to cater to the consumer's design is very despised in the traditional fashion industry, which makes the design ability of Kanye West and Virgil Abloh have been questioned. After two industries have achieved certain industry status, they are still the same.
Perhaps it is for this reason that Kanye West is very concerned about every year's fashion design graduates. It is reported that in recent two years, he has been committed to bringing fashion graduates from central Saint Martin and New York Parsons college to the Yeezy team.
The Maisie Schloss, which launched its personal brand, graduated from Parsons college.
As the Internet deconstructs the original commercial power relationship of the society, the old system in the fashion field gradually disintegrates into an irreversible trend, and the street trend as a token of this trend begins to sweep the fashion industry.
Virgil Abloh invited 1500 students to see the show on the debut of its Louis Vuitton, sending the same signal.
In fact, since the beginning of this year, Kanye West has expressed concern about the power of creative groups in other fields.
Since January of this year, the Sunday Service choir, launched by Kanye West, has appeared through its social account of wife Kardashian Kim, performing at different locations every week, similar to traditional choir.
Associating with the "sea of humanity" display style that Yeezy fashion show has always adopted, Kanye West is developing a consistent set of creative ideas and making fashion brand a religion.
There are various signs that the creative concept of Kanye West is showing systematicness. His expectation of Yeezy can not stop in the short-term consumption carnival, but brew a more long-term plan.
In particular, the recent introduction of LVMH for the singer Rihanna luxury brand FENTY also brings new guidance to the industry.
The industry is closely exploring the possibility that star brands will develop into a sustainable business outside the short-term celebrity effect.
In the recent David Letterman talk show, Kanye West directly revealed her ambition.
"I regard myself as the greatest godfather of the Yeezy brand.
And Yeezy will become the Hermes in sportswear, "Kanye West said directly.
Although Kanye West has always been known for its hyperbole, but as Kanye West and Virgil Abloh, from the "outsider" to the fashion industry center, led Yeezy and Off-White to achieve the success of "new species invasion", people no longer underestimate the potential of such brands.
Earlier this year, there was news that LVMH wanted to buy Off-White.
LVMH is negotiating with the parent company Off-White New Guards Group Holdings S.p.A on the acquisition.
NGG group from Italy has always had the tradition of launching personal brand for creative talents.
Its Heron Preston just held its first fashion show in Paris men's wear week this week. He was deeply influenced by San Francisco skateboard. He once worked as an art director of Kanye West and worked in Nike. He and Virgil Abloh belong to a combination of DJ and artists.
In February this year, the group also launched a brand Kirin with Virgil Abloh friends and Korean female DJ Peggy Gou.
If Kanye West can really make use of personal resources to provide opportunities for young designers, it will undoubtedly help to break the rigid structure of the fashion industry and accelerate the upgrading of the industry.
More importantly, such an organizational form will give birth to new brand forms, so that the future brand will become platform and become a creative hub.
Like Hermes, the new era of Yeezy has not changed the "dream making" attribute of the fashion industry, whether it is the dream of consumers having a Yeezy product or the famous dream of young creative talents.
Author: Drizzie
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