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    The Battle Of Garbage Sorting Begins. Textile Recycling Economy Is Promising, And Calls For Relevant Policies To Follow Up.

    2019/7/16 18:21:00 0

    Garbage SortingTextile Recycling

    In July 1st, Shanghai fired the first shot of garbage sorting. Since then, the curtain of garbage sorting in China has been slowly pulled away.

      

    The purpose of garbage classification is to raise the resource value and economic value of garbage, and strive to make the best use of it, which is related to the improvement of the living environment of the masses and the overall situation of green sustainable development.

      

    Today, Shanghai has pioneered garbage classification into the rule of law framework, then Beijing, Guangzhou, Shenzhen...... The pace of garbage sorting in other cities in China will not be far away. According to the information released by the Ministry of housing, by 2020, there will be 46 key cities in the whole country. By 2025, garbage disposal systems should be basically built in cities at the national level and above.

      

    For the textile industry, what are the opportunities and challenges of garbage sorting?

      

    As a recyclable resource, waste textiles can save a lot of textile raw materials if they are effectively utilized, thereby alleviating the problem of oil consumption and shortage of cultivated land. At the same time, it also reduces the amount of harmful gas emitted from textile waste incineration and the pollution caused by buried land. Therefore, the recycling of old clothes is of great significance to the natural environment and society.

         

    The trade-off between "value" and "price"

      

    Reporters in Shanghai garbage classification details, old clothes are recyclable, it is worth noting that the old underwear and towels are dry garbage (other garbage); in addition, napkins, diapers and other industrial textiles belong to dry garbage, sanitary napkins and facial mask although not shown in the map, but these two categories are basically cotton and non-woven materials, because it is disposable, so there is no recyclable value, also belong to dry garbage (other garbage). As for degradable materials, such as the environment-friendly fiber such as the production of mask, like dirty paper processing.

      

    In addition, there are large volume larger garbage, such as beds, mattresses, sofas and so on in the home textile field, which must designate the recycling sites and not be put into the domestic waste. That is to say, recyclable textiles are mainly concentrated in old clothes.

      

    Cheng Hao, director of the office of the environmental protection and resource conservation Promotion Committee of the China Federation of textile industry, said in an interview with "textile and clothing weekly" that every family in Shanghai has to add more than 10 new clothes every year. According to the Shanghai Census Bureau's population of 24 million 180 thousand in 2017, China's per capita textile consumption is 21 kilograms, Shanghai produces about 520 thousand tons of waste clothing every year. However, according to the data obtained in Shanghai's research, the scale of Shanghai's access to the recycling system is only about 1.2 kilograms per person per year, of which some of the old fabrics are donated, donated or stored at home. How did this huge scale of waste textiles work in the past?

      

    It is understood that China's disposal of waste textiles, in addition to a small part of recycling, most of which are still burned and landfills. At the same time, there are also some pieces of cloth that can be reprocessed into various products by shearing, or two times designed and made of recycled products. About 15% of them are recycled, that is, physical and chemical methods are used to make waste textiles into regenerated fibers.

      

    Not long ago, Liyan Tong was very concerned about the long skirt of H&M. The dress with excellent tailoring, plain and elegant patterns and silk slippery feel was made of plastic bottles and a large amount of waste materials washed on the shore.

      

    In the textile field, many enterprises in China have successfully produced recycled fibers. For example, Zhejiang beauty new materials Co., Ltd. pioneered and advanced chemical recycling technology, which reduced the recycled old clothes to the molecular level by chemical treatment, completely removed the color and fine impurities, and regenerated the new high-quality polyester fiber with the same quality as the original fiber, which was used for the manufacture of new garments and textiles. Tangshan Sanyou made a new viscose staple fiber from 50% raw materials from the cotton fabric after consumption. It is not hard to predict that the promotion of garbage classification will promote the use of waste textiles as a new industry.

      

    Nevertheless, the reuse of waste textiles has not been fully excavated. Cheng pointed out that in terms of "scrap", China can basically achieve the reuse of textile products and have a complete industrial chain. However, in the "old" aspect, China still lacks a complete chain of recycling systems, sorting and distribution, and has yet to form a good cycle.

      

    What are the difficulties in recycling and reusing waste textiles? Cheng Hao said that the recovery cost of waste textiles, including collection, transportation, disinfection, decomposition and other links, will cause a lot of cost. The high cost of processing is also the consensus of the industry. Many enterprises are considering the trade-off between "value" and "price". In fact, in addition to processing costs, the reuse of fiber is also a difficult problem for the industry to overcome. For example, some pure cotton fabrics can be easily reused, but because of the existence of blending, polyester fabric should be determined according to its blending ratio. So how to identify its blending ratio, which materials are blended, whether it can be carbonized and whether it can be pressed to use is a problem demanding prompt solution.

      

    Tang Shijun, director of the General Logistics Department's Quartermaster Equipment Research Institute, also said that the textile recycling enterprises are small and individual businesses, and they are fighting for themselves. There are no large-scale leading enterprises engaged in large-scale, high-value and resourceful recycling. At present, several new recycling methods, such as degassing, melting and repolymerizing technology for polyester clothing, alcoholysis, separation and repolymerization technology for polyester and cotton garments, and solvent recovery and separation technology for multi component blended garments are presented. At present, most domestic enterprises have not yet reached the level of advanced recycling technology. As a new industry, the waste textile industry has a long way to go in the future.

      

    On the eve of recovery, those preparations are not yet ready.

      

    In recent years, although the state attaches great importance to resource conservation and the development of circular economy, China is still at its initial stage without scale and industrialization, and lacks relevant policy support.

      

    In the recycling of waste textiles, the United Kingdom, the United States, Germany, Japan and other countries in the early twentieth Century have begun to start, and through relevant laws and policies to support and encourage the recycling of waste textiles.

      

    During the first World War, the British government promulgated laws and regulations that allow charities to recycle and reuse waste materials, and formulated and improved relevant laws and regulations in succession. At present, many charitable organizations in Britain have obtained the right to operate the business. Most of them are engaged in the recycling of old clothes. They sell the old clothes at a low price to those in need, and use the funds raised to help the disadvantaged groups. In 2000, Japan promulgated the basic law for the formation and promotion of circular society, aiming at establishing a "recycling society". Simply speaking, it refers to the society that consumes natural resources and minimizes environmental load. After years of efforts by the Japanese government, the export union of scrap fiber and the national waste trade union, Japanese consumers have not excluded the purchase or acceptance of old clothes. By 2014, the recovery rate of waste textiles in Japan was more than 20%.

      

    At present, because there are still many security risks, our country does not allow the transaction of waste textiles, and the government led textile recycling enterprises are few. As we all know, in the links of textile recycling, standards and relevant laws and regulations are needed to constrain and guide. In view of the fact that the recycling of waste textiles is still in the gray area, some people in the industry also call on the state to give full support to the policy, and at the same time set the standard for the recovery of waste textiles as soon as possible.

      

    According to Cheng Hao, before, the recovery of waste textiles was based on the "waste plastics classification and code", "waste plastic recycling technology specification" and other related standards, but because the textile was mostly blended, it still lacked applicability.

      

    In view of the current waste classification in Shanghai, waste textiles will be able to be classified and distributed more centrally. This will open a new era of government led waste textiles trading. Is the government prepared for the eve of the industrialization and scale of waste textiles? In this regard, Cheng Hao suggests that the relevant tax policies and related costs of the relevant responsible institutions in Shanghai should be given to stimulate the industry's enthusiasm in reusing, and at the same time, the government can give support to green identification and green procurement.

      

    In the field of terminal consumption, Cheng Hao recommends the use of the Internet + to allow consumers to consume. Meanwhile, businesses can encourage consumers to produce textiles that they no longer need, such as "discount tickets", which will enable enterprises to practice corporate social responsibility well and allow more people to participate.

      

    Fashion moves fast, but "reuse" slows down.

      

    In 2018, the China Textile Federation Committee on environmental protection proposed the special action for the down and down textiles, which is being implemented. This special action has been specially designed and developed from the aspects of solving related equipment development, industrial chain docking, standard setting, product certification and so on. Currently installed in place, is expected to be put into operation in 10-11 this year, this action will start in the field of feather down will create a replicable circular economy model.

      

    In the next stage, the China Textile Federation of Shanghai will also introduce more ideas on the recycling of waste textiles in the pilot area. At the same time, it will also advocate green lifestyle and green consumption concept from the aspects of school uniform and brand green design, so as to promote the resource utilization of the waste textiles and promote the development of the green circular economy in the textile industry.

      

    In 2018, the consumption of textile raw materials in China amounted to 58 million 500 thousand tons, accounting for more than 55% of the world's total. China's textile raw materials import more than 65%, and the amount of waste textiles amounted to 26 million tons / year. With the reduction of oil and the expansion of population, the contradiction between cotton and grain is becoming more and more serious. The major challenge for China's textile industry is the shortage of raw materials.

      

    Take cotton as an example, a T-shirt uses about 60 grams of cotton on average, and cotton planting takes up land and uses pesticides. If the old clothes are recycled or regenerated, they will help reduce the consumption of cotton and alleviate the shortage of raw material resources in China.

      

    Sun Huaibin, vice president of China Textile Industry Federation, pointed out that it is necessary to make clear the resource properties of waste textiles. At present, there is no effective connection between the industrialization of China's terminal renewable resources and the urban garbage sorting and recycling mode. As the largest textile country in the world, China has the most complete production system and technological support for R & D institutions. If docking with the recycling utilization of urban waste textiles, the establishment of a rational distribution and sorting center based on industrial utilization will help to enhance the high value utilization of waste textile resources. We encourage any demand, product and market comprehensive utilization behavior, and ultimately form a complete industrial chain of waste textile resource recycling and promote the formation of green development mode.

      

    When the pace of fashion is getting faster and faster, can we slow down and look at our consumption and advocate a simple, moderate, green and low-carbon lifestyle? As consumers, rational consumption and environmental protection of waste textiles are very important.

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