The Key To Constantly Touching The Taboo Of International Brands Is To Attach Importance To Consumers Themselves.
In August 12th, Versace was exposed to a T-shirt that violated China's territorial integrity. It was condemn by netizens, and then the brand Fang Daoqian and spokesperson were released. Then some netizens broke the news that the international luxury brand, Hongkong, Macao and Taiwan, listed its country in its T-shirt products and official website. In August 13th, some netizens exposed Austria brand SWAROVSKI to set Hongkong as a national option. With the ferment of public opinion, more and more international big names have been exposed to similar events: CK, Givenchy, Arthur, fresh and so on.
In a short span of a day, many international big players took turns on the cusp.
In 2018, dujiaba was controversial because of the incident of insulting China. A few days later, the two founders of dujiaba sent an apology video. This not timely public relations method was interpreted as "under the pressure of public opinion and no sincerity". Obviously, the "Versace" who stepped on the red line did not want to be the second dugbana. After the related products were exposed, the brands immediately released apologies on many official social accounts at home and abroad, and made the "destruction" treatment for the related products.
The brand spokesman was faster than the brand side. After Versace's "problem T-shirt" was exposed, the Yang Mi team responded for the first time, unilaterally terminating its cooperation with the brand, even faster than Versace's official apology statement. Supermodel Liu Wen unilaterally terminated the cooperation with Cox Chi and endorsed the "resolute maintenance of China's sovereignty" in micro-blog. 14 days ago, Liu Wengang signed a contract with her, so she became the fastest brand spokesman in the history.
Before the announcement of the apology, the studio set up the first step to terminate the cooperation. So netizens call August 12th "international day of dissolution" and "luxury brand apology day".
Du Gabbana's story is vividly visible. The scandal of "insulting China" suffered a heavy setback in the Chinese market. First, the big show was forced to be canceled, and the spokesmen broke it down.
Even today, dujibana has not been forgiven by Chinese consumers, and its market sales and international image have plummeted. Data show that in the first quarter of 2019, dujibana's participation in social media micro-blog fell by 98% compared with the same period last year.
It is no wonder that international brands, which are always reserved, have shown a strong desire for survival.
In fact, luxury goods are not necessities of life, so this market has always been characterized by "rapid change". At present, the global economic situation is the sword of Damour and Chris on the top of many luxury brands, while the high-end consumption power in the Chinese market shows an explosive trend, and the consumption habit of the market has also changed significantly with the rise of the millennial generation. Data show that in 2017, the global luxury market reached 1 trillion and 200 billion euros, and personal luxury market sales reached a record high, of which 32% were contributed by Chinese consumers. In 2000, China's luxury consumption accounted for only 1% of the world's market share.
Behind the remarkable rise reflects the potential and space of the Chinese market, as well as the sweetness of these international brands.
For example, CEO has entered the Chinese market very early, and its brand awareness and penetration in China have been higher, and it has achieved double-digit growth for several consecutive quarters. Last year, the company's global CEO said in a media interview that "China has become the second largest market after the United States, and is expected to become the largest source of revenue in the world".
In recent years, Versace has been going downhill almost all the time. It has opened half of its stores in China, and has just signed the Chinese actress Yang Mi in June, and is preparing to rely on the Chinese market for a turning around. It is worth mentioning that Versace is the only luxury brand that Capri group has recorded in the first quarter of 2019. Its sales in Asia, including China, amounted to 71 million US dollars, accounting for 34% of its total revenue.
Givenchy's parent company, LVMH group, has always attached importance to the Chinese market. China has brought double-digit sales growth to LVMH group for many years. In the first half of 2019, the LVMH group's overall sales grew 16% year-on-year, a record high of five years. Its sales of the Givenchy beauty cosmetics (previously endorsed by Yi Xi Xi Xi) were very eye-catching.
There is no doubt that the Chinese market is a reassurance for the global luxury brands. Why is there such a ridiculous thing about the "luxury brand apology day"?
On the one hand, in recent years, the luxury industry has shown an oligopoly effect, and the group has a larger market share. The larger the volume of the enterprise, the higher its internal industrialization degree and the less flexible decision making.
A white-collar worker who worked in a foreign company told the media that his company had once listed Taiwan, China as a country in the official website, and was reminded by the branch to change the country to "state and region". The process of creating the official website is decided by the regional branches and translated into languages of other countries. Such errors in international brands are enough to show that headquarters staff are not sensitive to such problems.
There is no doubt that rigid decision making and group operation are in contradiction with creative industries themselves, especially the industries with "faster fashion". Coupled with the growth of the Internet and the rise of social media, any omission of the group will trigger a Domino effect.
On the other hand, the deep rooted ideology of the brand tells us that their mistakes are not accidental. Let's take a look back at the international brand "trampling" in recent years.
In May last year, Gap appeared a suspected T-shirt that "cut" the map of China. In March this year, Estee Lauder group's beauty makeup brand M.A.C quoted the wrong Chinese map in its mail. This map lacks Taiwan. Besides, the US map in the mail lacks Alaska and Hawaii, and the French map lacks Corsica island.
At the end of last year, a shop in New York Manhattan square appeared a "black faced" legal doll. The official website interpreted it as "a mysterious little creature family", but its image was full of racism. Prada was widely protested by African Americans. Prada
A wave is not yet smooth. At the beginning of this year, Gucci was raced by a "black faced" sweater and was boycotted by consumers.
The "black face" first refers to the non black actors dressed as blacks in the drama. In the early nineteenth Century, the American black faced farce was popular. At that time, the United States had not been abolished. Because the black people in the comic play were usually portrayed as exaggerated, absurd, vulgar and violent images to please the white people, so becoming a black face gradually became a symbol of stereotype of African Americans in the American cultural context, and was regarded as offensive and disrespectful.
From the lack of the east to the west, the design has caused controversy. Behind the frequent mistakes made by the big international brands, we see the fashion industry giants closely related to culture and do not regard others' culture as their eyes. Domestic fashion media LADYMAX analysis said: "these mistakes brand has certain regularity, for example, D&G, Prada, Gucci, Versace are all Italy brand, this reflects that" European culture has fallen into self closed because of indulging in comfort zone, and has limited knowledge of global culture and little interest. "
In fact, this view is not without reason. In the traditional period, European economic development is better and its status is higher. European culture has its own superiority. With the change of technology and globalization, the trend of the world's centralization is deepening, but Europe still indulges in its comfort zone. Otherwise, why has no controversial product been questioned from the whole process of design, packaging, publicity, and shelves?
From the global perspective, the importance of the Chinese market has made many international brands unnoticed. They are watching the awakening of China's consumption power and seeing the country's changing rapidly. But paying attention to the market share of a country and paying attention to the market culture of a country are two different things. Paying attention to consumers' pocketbooks and paying attention to consumers themselves are two different things.
In the final analysis, "despise the mentality of the Chinese people" will not be completely eliminated in a short time. This is the ideology created by history, which has long been deeply rooted in many people's minds. If we can not break the recognition of this limitation and respect the people and culture of every nation and country, sooner or later, we will overthrow Pyramid.
As the people's Daily commentary: "some transnational corporations are caught up in the present situation and have a strong desire for survival. Regular action is an apology. The question is, is apology useful? If there really is goodwill and awe, we should not hurt the feelings of the Chinese people at all times. If we really learn from it, we will not make a random comment on the issue of Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan. It is a matter of principle to do business in China. In the face of unruly multinational enterprises, we should not only condemn but also take some self-defense tools from the "toolbox".
There is a business rule in business, and there is profit in the market of one side. If you want to do global business, you must respect the culture and rules of the global market first. Whether the product's wind control links have been implemented to every minute link reflects the degree of brand respect for the market.
The market has been generous to these brands, and can be asked to return them unpolitely. After all, for the Chinese market, the complete map is our most cherished luxury.
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