2019 China Clothing Convention Parallel Five: Design Wind Vane Material And Aesthetics

2019 China clothing convention parallel meeting Five

Design wind vane -- material and aesthetics

Sharing guests:

DFC fabric library partner, chief brand officer Wang Xiao can

WGSN trend director Zheng Mianmian

Professor Bian Xiangyang, director of Shanghai fashion capital promotion center, Donghua University

main    hold :

Deputy director, brand development department, China Apparel Association Li Xue Fei 　

Li Xuefei: The theme is "designing wind vane: material and aesthetics". Material is a very important factor in design. We call it the origin of design. In this era, more and more designers and clothing brands are concerned about the innovation and development of materials. What can be applied to them? We now invite speakers to share with you.

Wang Xiaocan: Hello, everyone. I'm from FDC. FDC means the abbreviation of fashion design center, fabric exchange center and fabric data center, so everything I do is around fashion design, around fabric transaction, around fabric innovation and fabric data.

Today's theme is "material aesthetic and marketing transformation in the new retail era". Why do we talk about this topic? As we all know, from the perspective of a clothing brand, we heard three excellent brand speeches in front of us. Now we all pay special attention to the needs of terminal consumers, but how do we really come up with real good products? At the end of the material, marketing has actually started. It does not start marketing at the end of consumption. It starts from the material end. When we were old, the textile industry was separated from the garment industry, weaving and weaving and clothing making clothes. But from the point of view of brand, from the point of view of how to do the mental product mode that can impress consumers, we find that it is too late to consider simply from clothing. It should be considered from the end of raw materials.

Today, I use a short time to communicate with you about how we get involved in marketing in terms of thinking, from material end, with marketing thinking, and ultimately achieve consumers' willingness to pay for this purpose.

Now it is said that aesthetics is competitiveness, why do consumers pay? It is a plain truth that consumers pay for what they see as beautiful things and what they consider valuable. Jobs said, "the simpler things are, the more advanced they are," including the design, which still looks beautiful. This is more than a decade ago. It is not that materials can not be used, but that it is better designed from the perspective of design. The design of various products should look beautiful from the collocation, including various applications from people's life style.

In this era, the raw materials of fabrics are changed according to consumer demand. Now the consumer is undergoing great changes. The products we buy are not just a product concept. What he bought is his feelings. I feel that I am willing to buy this thing to delight in my spirit. This is the first point we should pay attention to. Second, accept innovation and new things. The market demands more and more brands on clothing companies. It requires you to become more and more individualized, requiring your reaction to be faster and faster, and at the same time paying attention to spiritual pursuits.

Another point of concern is that we should focus on the last attribute of consumption and focus on the maintenance of consumer experience and consumer sovereignty. This has returned to another dimension. This dimension is that I not only see that this thing I buy is not good-looking enough, but I have to pay more attention to what the real impact of this thing on me is, what the context is, what it is before and after this life, what fabric it comes from, what fiber it uses, whether it is environmentally friendly, and whether it is harmful to my health.

In this process, we often contact a lot of fiber enterprises, for example, Tangshan's three friends do regenerated cellulose fiber, they are now doing the fiber label combing, how to reduce pollution in dyeing process, the clothes made of fiber, three years after the direct degradation, many materials can be made through many ways, let consumers think they have contributed to this society, including the introduction of green, environmental factors, this is something that needs practical attention.

In this case, from an economic point of view, after the changes in the structure of the whole society, the original large market has become a more fractionable market. This means that if our client can really do a good job in a certain field, he can have a large number of consumers. We know that there is a very important data in the preceding period. I find it very interesting afterwards. You often see girls who wear sports shoes in Han clothes, but you don't think much of them. But a Chinese Taobao shop can achieve 1 billion 700 million sales a year. A single product sales channel will get a lot of business opportunities in it. We supply with many garment companies on the fabric platform. We know who the fabric is sold to and what materials sell better. This is a lot of data that we see through the data.

From the single brand to the multi brand, many enterprises are also taking a multi brand approach. In fact, the future development must be in the era of data driven. What your customers want to do is determined by data, not what he wants, what you give, what he wants and what you give him. The data determine your decision. When we see a lot of fabric data, I know that in the city of Sichuan, what fabrics do they buy, they are more chemical fiber or wool, more black or more blue, what is the situation of buyers in Henan, we can see a lot of consumer habits through data. Ali started their intelligent manufacturing project in the year before last. There were two things in the project. It built a cowboy manufacturing plant and built a knitting production plant. We know knitted and cowboys are very good industries in Guangdong. Why should they do this? Because it has seen the largest sales volume of knitting products and denim products through the big data of Taobao and Alibaba, so they built the factory and even the R & D center. Now they are cooperating with the North garment company. The designer of the North dress gave them the design plan, they finished their sample clothes, then selected the brand of Taobao, and then produced it in his factory. Now we are matching them with the fabric. So in this part, we say that the future is a data driven era. Many things are based on data.

Looking at this point, what we can see here is that from the perspective of stores, the future needs to turn from consumers to captive consumers, so that consumers can not get away from you. Here we have made a consumer portrait. Where are the important plates? Why do you always talk about consumption? Fabric is the foundation of all products. If there is no good raw material supply, you can't get good products. If there is no quick raw material supply, you can't meet the needs of consumers. Therefore, to improve the response speed of the supply chain, we can see that consumers' brand preferences, interest preferences, scene preferences, style preferences and style preferences are all related to fabric. So now we see that the entire garment industry is moving towards precision marketing. Apart from the original brand culture, the original IP manufacturing, there is no match with your brand from the raw material end, so that your brand can become more content. I think it is possible. We are also helping some enterprises to do something.

The second part is about the characteristics of the fashion and luxury market. The garment industry we are engaged in is a fashion industry. What we most want to do is to make ourselves a luxury brand. What is the relationship between fashion and luxury goods? Luxury is fashion, fashion is not necessarily luxury.

In the BCG report, they are divided into six levels, with a small number of people on it. Many people are longing for it, including the current brands or consumer groups. In the whole life of the people, they are all social strata.

From 2016 to 2023, the growth rate of personal luxury goods was between 2% and 3%, and the growth rate of luxury goods was 5% to 6%.

The growth of the whole population in the future and the growth of the real luxury crowd are constantly developing, with the growth rate reaching 24%. More and more people pursue better quality of life and better product quality. China has taken up the largest scale in the world.

We have done a lot of exploration of efficiency, service lock and user value. We see that downwards and upward integration must be done. My material is to make visualization of differences, positioning and cognition. After deep excavation, we can give more help in this field.

Contemporary art is actually representing the future, and artists are trying to express themselves in an artistic way. Contemporary art is a state of playing with materials. Many of the new materials we see are applied by some artists. This is an artwork made by blue and white porcelain made by Cavail in 2005. This is a self portrait made by contemporary artists to Beijing, a thing they made from celadon. This is an artist from Canada, who also performs different performances with celadon. They also have different forms of expression in the same material. This is a Western-style garment made by a contemporary Chinese artist who has made an archaeological scrap of porcelain. It has taken 80 million of the sky price. The front is a work of art, which is made by craftsmen in Jingdezhen. They think that artists are irregular and unattractive, so they are arranged neatly and neatly. We will see that in fact, the application of aesthetics to materials is also different in the hands of different people. Wealth itself is not good or bad, it depends on how people use it. This is a product made by Mr. Guo Pei from the rose house. It is also a design extension made by blue and white porcelain. This picture is taken by a Chinese photographer. Behind this is a photo taken by a national treasure designer in Italy. We find that the real taste of the dress is that the Italian people use their eyes to see Eastern culture, and the final state is different from what the Chinese see. This is China's walking show. It's also a good brocade, nice silk, and finally it looks like this. So I was very sad when I was looking at it. What I was sad about was that I found that the materials of Chinese textiles had begun to synchronize with the world, and they did very well. But the Chinese textile raw material part does not have its own brand, and they can not sell its added value. So when we saw this, we found that the designer was also very bad. Because he got so good raw materials, so many people made silk by hand. He made silk prices into Chinese cabbage, which is everywhere in China's design circles. Today, I say this is not a fight against designers. I can only say that many of our fashion designers do not understand materials, and do not know how to use them to make them more valuable. In fact, real materials have great value and space for the presentation of a product.

The third part, from the perspective of consumption habits, takes women as an example. There is a data. Most of China's money is in the hands of women, and women manage a lot of money at home. What do women love best? Women actually love money. We are all analyzing consumers, saying that different people are like that, but in a deeper sense, what women want and why they will pay the bill, what is the most important sorting for them? This is a survey of zero information. The result is very interesting. Women love money most, and then houses are very practical.

Chinese women are an important promoter of fashion and luxury consumption, and exceed 40% of their annual income. What percentage do they pay for this? 88%, because of its high quality, it is willing to pay the bill. What is the problem again? Now that everyone is rich, he is willing to spend money on high quality and make him happy. It is better to have things, but also to look good. He can make himself happy when he wears, and make himself happier. There is also a higher proportion of hand-made choices, that is, the manufacture of temperature, and the new style and uniqueness. We all talk about personalization. In fact, personalization has not been so close. Women are not so impulsive now. They are willing to pay for it because they have real quality, something with temperature and something that makes him happy. This is something he wants to buy.

From the perspective of clothing, what kind of things do you want to produce represent temperature? Fabric can give you the product temperature? Yes, yes, many fabrics have many languages to speak, but we can not read it. Look at this suit I wear today. I designed it myself and made it myself. Besides being the founder of the FDC library, my job is the director of the advanced customization research center of Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology. I am also a fashion designer, but I was a shell doctor 20 years ago. I am standing here today wearing such a suit. You will not think I am very earth today, because the butter color I wear today is a popular color, and it fits me very well. But I told you that this suit was 10 years ago, and I don't think it will be ugly if I wear it today, because the material is good, and its material will withstand the test of time. It has such information in the transmission, when you stand here do not speak, when we judge you, you will be able to judge all the information on you, exactly who you are and what you are doing. When you see the color of my clothes and see me standing here like this, you won't think it's a quality stall. It's the quality of the material that it brings. Even if it was 10 years ago, we still think it's good when we look at it again.

This is the behavioral characteristics of female consumer groups in fashion industry. What's interesting about it? Women's self expression, first of all, is love. What is the so-called love? The story of your clothing brand must make her feel that you love her, second is beauty, everything you can make her beautiful, this is an important reason why she can buy. The third difference is special. The fourth is intelligence, which makes her feel intelligent and has added value. The fifth is independence. Sixth is expensive, is good quality. This is their way of life and values. Another point is that fashion is luxury, culture is the starting point, and one thing is that women prefer cultural products, which is the characteristic of women.

The fourth part, fashion is the transformation of product design. (see PPT) this is a designer who made a series in 2005 and opened a store in Paris. At that time, he made the choice of cross-border materials. He found a embroidery workshop in the countryside of Hebei, and used a lot of craft in Hebei to make use of his design elements. He made a lot of things, including later he had some cooperation with several international brands.

This is his product. People who make this product are hand embroidered Nang in Hebei rural area. The whole product is also made of patterns on tiger shoes, made of acrylic materials, fabric modification and two designs on conventional fabrics. This product is very special, and can not be seen as a thing made by rural women, but it has very artistic value and sells well and the price is very high. This bag and shoes are also designed with this element.

This is based on the theme of digital design, using a lot of industrial materials. Nowadays, the application of materials in the clothing industry is not simply the concept of the original fabric. He has many cross-border choices, not only the tide brand in cross-border cooperation, but also from the material point of view, they are doing a lot of cross-border research.

When we see this point again, we will find that it is very advanced, very avant-garde, and artistic sense. We can not see that the farmers in Hebei made things, but in fact they came out of the hands of farmers.

Look at this design again, it is very artistic, how to use it is the problem of applied people, not the problem of material itself.

Some special acrylic shapes are used on clothing and then combined with clothing materials to produce very beautiful effects.

Another case is "a piece of homespun". This is a designer whom I respect very much. I have seen a lot of products that are now making non heritage products, or are excavating Chinese culture. It is a very respectable person. This person is surnamed CAI. I do not advertise here. I just said this. He uses the language of the world to express Chinese originality.

Seeing this kind of display, do we feel that we are very internationalized and the quality of our products is very good. These are all made of Guizhou's homespun cloth. Look at this picture, you will feel this material is very advanced. Why do I respect him? It's because we've seen so many people. Some people are holding the same legacy, just to win a good reputation and get the government's funds. But after he went in, he began to dye and yarn. He did a very high position in the big clothing company of the United States. Later he went back to China and went deep into the mountains to study these things, and now he has made products.

The cloth he made is woven by hand, and now it can be sold on the market. It is very valuable. They are dyed with natural pigments. As we all know, blue dye is easy to fade. He has studied, and the dye will not fade for a long time. He dyes himself, spun himself, and weaves himself.

This is another part of him, called the "dew born" series. He made a fabric for the baby. The fabric was washed with Chinese herbal medicine, and after it was bleached, it was used for antisepsis and antifouling, and then made something for the baby. The part of fabric added to Chinese herbal medicine finally becomes a very good product. The style is also very simple. It is protective for children and can prevent mosquito bites, because important ingredients are added to the fabric. So they are doing a lot of experiments.

This is the packaging of his products. I can see that this brand will start to be valuable for Chinese brands. They are using the Chinese culture to create real Chinese stories, Chinese fabrics, Chinese products and Chinese luxury goods. Because what we want to do with time is the real luxury. One of his fabrics takes a long time from the dew water to the final product. He spent more than ten years studying it from the beginning, and now the product is really good. So I say that China is now slowly starting from the research and development of raw materials, and finally to a product line. More and more people are starting to pay attention to this matter and begin to do it. I think this is an improvement.

Later, many of his things were collected. The real luxury is not the price and trademark, but the spiritual and cultural self-confidence behind it. All this can start with a piece of cloth. Here we can see the Chinese national spirit.

Let me tell you another application innovation of materials. This is some information from the international wool Bureau. The international wool bureau is a public welfare organization in Australia. They will do a lot of innovative development of wool in the world every year. We will see that he is doing this natural, innovative, degradable and renewable product. Wool is a very good material. China's systematic research on this aspect is not, and Australia's international wool Bureau's practice is worth learning by Chinese enterprises.

We see what extent they have done. This is a water repellent fabric. In the production process of OPTIM, the beautiful wool is pre stretched, but not shaped, and then woven with very high warp and weft density. Finally, it can be used to prevent splashing water. This is the material made from sheep's hair. Before we all felt that the wool was very delicate and very wrinkled, but here we could prevent splashing water. He has made outdoor brand and sports brand from wool design.

Wool shoes, which are also technology wash, anti odor, bare feet shoes, and improve the wear resistance, which are upgrading the textile technology, wool wrapped in nylon heart, outside is wool, both wear resistance, but also has the effect of odor.

Wool socks, which are suitable for hiking and sports functions in the part of socks, can solve many of their functional things through textile process. This is what we believe to represent the highest level in the world's textile technology, especially wool.

And wool stretch suits. The plastic elastic clothing is made of chemical fiber. Now wool can also be made. It can also achieve good function and utility.

There are also woolen cowboys. It turns out that we all use cotton spinning to make cowboys. Now we use wool and cotton blended to add warmth and elasticity, and form a new state through the transformation of fibers. Comfortable, durable and natural breathable.

There is also digital printing on wool. This is a natural, unique and aesthetic thing that can be degraded. It will do many kinds of processing on this.

This is the latest trend from yarn ends. I would like to give you a brief introduction to the material of wool. We are talking about a few cases. One is the re creation of the designer, the second is the excavation of the Chinese culture, and the third is the transformation of the latest technology in the world. In the process of application, we will let you know more about what the textile industry is doing now. They are doing more products with more functional value. The other side wants us to understand why consumers are willing to pay the bill in the end. When we are thinking about these problems at the end of the fabric, we should not only think about it from the consumer side, but also start from the raw material end. This will help us to shape the whole brand and enhance the value of the whole brand culture.

Finally, with Baudrillard's remarks in the consumer society as an end, "material abundance to a certain extent, consumer behavior will replace production behavior and become the dominant social economy. Consumers in the consumer society are more in pursuit of symbolic and symbolic value of commodities." We believe that China is now in a state of consumer society, so in this process, more often than not, consumers are willing to pay for the real value of users, they only pay for the true user value.

Zheng Mianmian: Hello everyone! Wang's last page is also my opening remarks. Just now, Wang talked about what consumers like in the future, and we need to discuss material aesthetics from the nature of consumers. WGSN today's topic is 2021 of future consumers. It may be said that it is still 2019, and we say it is too early in 2021. But I can't hide from you that I have just opened our global 2022 meeting, so we have talked about it for a long time for us in 2021. Why do we talk about 2021 today? Because in the past few years, 2021 and 2022 are very important milestones.

Many people here know that WGSN is mainly clothing, and we are fashions. But in the so-called fashion, its real object of service is consumers. So when we enter various fields, we can see that in recent years, apart from the fashion industry, WGSN also has industries, including indoor, electronic, automobile, consumer goods, make-up and so on. But we serve the same object, our real consumers. So in our overall sector, we will see that consumers are a very important sector, because when people first know us, they will say, "is everyone in your trend YY coming out?" For example, WGSN confirmed today that yellow or popular green will be popular next year. All experts here today set the plate. But in fact, this is not the case. All the trends are reflected in the macro lifestyle of consumers. So in our overall consumers, we will analyze the consumers of different ages, such as the unbounded consumers mentioned in the previous few seasons, and the asexual generation. What is the way the young people nowadays are looking at after 90 and after 95, and what is the Chinese way of comedy? I don't know if you have ever held a meeting with people from different countries abroad. In my company, I always feel that there is such a problem. When colleagues in other countries tell their jokes, I will never laugh at Get. The Chinese laugh is very cute, funny, and thought-provoking at the same time. When we smile, we will rethink. So we will also think about why these consumers like these things and what kind of people of different ages.

At the same time, we will also analyze their lifestyle and analyze their food and drink. Beer and skittles seem very simple, but in fact they are very deep. What are the three most successful factors of our recent young representatives in China? They say that the three greatest success signs of young people in China are: houses, cars and cats. If you lack the same, you may not be the most successful person. From this sentence, we can see that China's pet circles are rising rapidly. We are the only pet fashion trend in the world, but pet trends are closely related to people, because when everyone feels lonely, they will find that pets are giving them very warm feelings, which is related to their psychological needs.

Of course, the data is the most important. In the past purchasing power, and even the purchase data, we will put it on the left. When we are doing popular data research, big data must be our very important way of reference. We all say that the data purchased always represent the past. In the next two to three years, and even 5 to 10 years, what is the real trend instead of? (see PPT) we can take a look at the biggest circle on the far right part of this picture. In this regard, we see a lot of factors, such as political factors and economic factors. We will also see consumers' hobbies, technological factors, retail dynamics, and even independent media, that is, what we call bloggers or big V, what they are concerned about every day. When we look at all these people, let's look again. When we find these things, plus our data, we get a very large and instructive trend. This trend is not being hyped up by any organization, rising rapidly and falling down rapidly, but it will have a great impact on consumers in the next few years. It will even affect his buying behavior, his aesthetic way of behavior, and what kind of fabric he will choose to enter his life. This is what we call lifestyle that determines the trend of fashion. At the same time, the trend of fashion will come back to guide and guide the consumption trend of consumers.

Before we say this, let's talk about a more general picture of what kind of era we are in. 2020 is coming. 2020 is the pronoun of all future. In the past 20 years, everyone is saying that 2020 is a time when cars are flying in the sky. It is a time when human beings have housekeeper robots. When 2020 is coming, we will see what kind of era we are in this era. I think it is very necessary to analyze.

We live in the whole age. People, wealth, goods, technology and environment are people who come into contact with each other everyday. People are consumers, and wealth is the growth of the economy. Where the growth is faster, where the economy is a little behind, and things are commodities we touch every day. Technology is what we call the Internet, big data, artificial intelligence and so on every day. Very important, what we are going to mention here is "environment", that is, the environment. I participated in the WGSN trend proposal last month. The most profound experience is the environment. Basically, people in every country and region are talking about the environment. When our consumers are increasingly aware of environmental pollution and environmental changes in a very important direction of future life, environmental protection is material, even in line with consumers' environmental protection materials. In the future, it is very, very important, especially for young consumers.

In this era, what kind of consumers do we face? A lot of brands find us, they say we want to face young consumers, but we don't know what the new direction of young consumers is, can they tell us what new consumers are doing? We say that the new consumer is not another generation, but another kind of person. As I have just said, three great signs of success for modern young people are: houses, cars, cats. Many people sometimes find it incredible. How do you see cats more important than their parents? This is because they are very lonely in their hearts. In addition, we see the most willing to pay for luxury goods. Among Chinese consumers, after 90 and 95 are most willing to pay for luxury goods. But their definition of luxury is different. They believe that real luxury can help them in many aspects, such as the satisfaction of emotional needs, and even help them understand the manual production behind this luxury, or the way of real production.

This era is an era of big information and big data based on ZB. In this era, we are flooded with too much information every day. It is also very important for us to let consumers decide their purchase information quickly and quickly let him decide which material to purchase.

As I have just said, this is also a time to pursue the post truth. What is the post truth era? This is what many young consumers need. We said before that a person buys three goods at a time when he buys a product, but now the young consumer is 9 to 11. This is a very terrible data, because when he sees a product, he can search the product quickly through various channels, and he will search the story behind the product. You told me today that this knitted material is really green. Have you really done it? Did you really show me the story behind its environmental protection? Have you proved to me that this environmental protection is actually implemented? This is what all young consumers would like to see. What is the truth behind it?

At the same time, this is an era of globalization and localization. We are all seeing the rapid rise of the national tide, but at the same time, we will also find that in the case of the rapid rise of the national tide, the truly good brand of the national tide is actually combining the very many elements of China with the Western elements. Just like the products of blue and white porcelain made by Wang Zong, for example, if we simply put simple blue and white porcelain on a traditional fabric and make it out, consumers may still feel that this is not what I want to be really innovative. Therefore, we should treat the era of globalization and localization in a very equal way. We need to complement each other.     

This is also an era of reconciliation between man and himself and nature. In our previous lectures, we had released a documentary video which said that the earth does not need human beings and only human beings need the earth. Many people will say before the advocacy, I was to protect the earth, I was to protect the environment, in fact, the earth needs us to protect it? The earth can destroy the very powerful dinosaurs living on this planet. After tens of millions of years of evolution, it is still intact. The appearance of human beings is only a small part of the earth's very vast life. So what we need to save is human beings. We are doing a lot of things for the change of our living environment. This is very important. This direction is at least the direction of the next 5 years.

What is the mainstream consumer in the future? (see PPT) this is what we call the mainstream consumers in the future. We will divide them into this state temporarily. There is a very surprising data. Few people mention it now after 00, but next year after 00, it is 20 years old. After 90, it is 30 years old. In another two years, after 00, we will go to the society. They will rent, buy a house, get married, have children, and so on. A series of problems will arise. So these two kinds of talents are the biggest consumption force in the future. However, we should not neglect that after 70 and 60, in the United States, after 70 and 60, they are the ones who hold the most wealth, because they have a large retirement wage, they also have a lot of financial resources, they are even undertaking two business ventures and so on. But the way they buy will not be as impulsive as after 90 and 00. They will make a lot of comparisons. So we see that consumers in the future are undergoing rapid updating and iteration, and their environment is undergoing massive changes.

In the consumer's iteration, the next thing we want to talk about is the Z generation, which is the main consumer of the 90's, the 00 generation and the millennial generation.

What is the main concern of these consumers in 2021? What kind of expectation do they have for the brand? What will happen to their behavior? What will their mentality be like? This is a very important direction.

According to all the consumers and consumers' living environment I mentioned just now, the matrix of future consumers in 2021 is like this. (see PPT) many of us are judged by changes in consumer mood. For example, consumers have tremendous pressure. I believe you have seen the news of Shirley's suicide in these two days. In fact, a lot of pressure, especially for young people, is a very frightening factor for depression, anxiety and so on. These two symptoms have been proved by the United Nations to be one of the six chronic diseases killer. They are eroding the enormous pressure of young people. Many people say that young people should be stressed, but can real pressure really bear them? Is their psychology really able to release these pressures? This is the point we need to pay close attention to in the future in 2021.

There is deep kindness, though they are very stressful, but they are willing to pay for the environmental protection business. They are willing to pay for the earth. They are willing to pay for the rise of the national tide. All of this means that they are very good hearted people in their hearts. So what should we do for them? It is also very important for our products to do something for them.

In addition, they are fearless and fearless. They are very brave to express that they are very willing to break through some superficial truths and seek the truth behind them.

Through these consumers' emotions, we draw a total of 4 consumers' portraits. Through pressure, we get the so-called "compression family". We get the good intentions guardian and the market maker through the kindness of the heart. At the same time, the market makers and the network sceptics are also fearless and fearless.

Let's take a look at how each direction works. What do we mean by consumers' emotions and their pressure? Of course, consumers of all ages have tremendous pressure, but the millennial generation will be longer than the older generation, and the lower the salary they receive, this is a very harsh fact. The survey found that 73% of the people worked for more than 40 hours per week and more than 50 hours of 1/4, so this way many millennials feel a lot of burnout. That's why depression and anxiety are very important now. From the age of 30 to 40, the income of X generation was 30% higher than that of the previous generation, but the income of the millennial generation of the same era decreased by 4%. This is why many people feel very hard every day, but they do not lead a good life or are urged by a lot of pressure. This is the reason why stress is very important.

This is what we call the source of the compressed family. I remember that two years ago I put forward a trend direction called "attention economy", of course, the attention economy is also very important now. What is the attention economy saying? We say that consumers are getting more and more quickly, so when he decides one thing, he changes from 7 seconds to 5 seconds. This is why a lot of trend colors are becoming more and more colorful now, and more and more collisions, because we need to quickly catch the eyeballs and let him pay close attention to what new things are in my shop in 5 seconds, so as to attract consumers into my shop and see what my other products are like.

When the attention economy is really coming, we will find that more and more consumers are beginning to become tired. He has lost his attention because too many decisions have made him lose interest in a moment. In 2017, a Microsoft advertisement declared that an ordinary person had 35000 decisions to make every day, and before we knew it, we had made many decisions every day. An ordinary American makes 70 conscious decisions a day, which is a very big data that makes people feel that he is suffocating every day.

Let's look at the fearless consumers. We have recently said that we should be tide cards and be very independent, individual and characteristic. But what is the real fashion consumer? We find that pride and patriotism are a very important consumption trend for Chinese consumers. They think China is good and China makes no difference. This is a very important consumer orientation. But in the face of global consumers, the young consumers we see in Africa, India and Southeast Asia are rising rapidly, and there are a large number of them. You can see that in India, by 2021, more than half (600 million) were under 25 years of age. But as we have just said, when they are about 25 years old, they need to have their own personality to play and need a lot of participation. They want to participate in the society and participate in different political cultural styles. Their growth rate is very important. Especially in 2050, the young population in Africa will grow by 50%, becoming the largest continent for young people.

Young people are fearless and fearless. Their rapid growth in population and their pride are very important in their love for their motherland and their love for this land.

So they will form a market maker. What does the market maker mean? As we have said, the group that young people are concerned about is very special. As we have said before, they will pay attention to the small travel destinations and minority brands, and even they are paying close attention to the minority groups recently, but this group is a very normal group for us, that is, the so-called disabled group. The young generation asks the brand to pay attention to 1 billion 300 million people with disabilities in the world. Why do they think we haven't made any products for these 1 billion 300 million people? The clothes we make every day are worn by healthy people. We never thought of playing the code words of blind people on clothes. This is what young people hope to recreate a batch of new products in this market.

So a very good example is ASOS, which is a brand in the United Kingdom. They have recently launched a brand new series called super brand series. In this brand series, he invited all people, including the disabled, including larger people, including the asexual people. They hope that all these people can come to buy their brand, because our brand can help you find confidence and beauty. This is what we call the market maker, and the style he hopes for is reappearing.

Finally, what are the 12 areas that we will carry out the index of future innovation from 2020 to 2021? In these 12 areas, our customers want to arrive and hope that the brand will arrive. In these 12 fields, we have divided it into 6 directions. The first is the society. We see that in the field of society, more of our consumers want safety, warmth and warmth like home. The second is science and technology. In fact, we have not mentioned many technologies just now, because when the technology era really comes, we hope that technology will be tender. The environment is in the third stage, which is very important, how to let consumers see the brand's help to the environment, and then reshape the natural and scarce resources for reuse. At the same time, we see more inclusive opportunities on the political front. As I have just said, how to do things for people of different identities, people of different colors and of different shapes and brands, and inclusiveness opportunities is a very important direction in the future, and it is also very important for us to express superhuman expressions on creativity.

Bian Xiangyang: Dear Feng Dean and distinguished guests, I am very glad to have this opportunity to share with you the topic of "culture driven industry and promoting the inheritance of contemporary Chinese clothing culture" at the China Fashion convention. The reason why I share this topic with you is that last year, the team of Donghua University was commissioned by the China Fashion Institute. We made a research report on the inheritance of contemporary Chinese clothing culture. The ultimate goal is to make a contemporary Chinese dress culture code and make a group standard.

This PPT is not what I did. It was made by two post-90 students who I specially handed to me. I only told him what I was going to say. I said you chose the color yourself. You choose the font yourself. You choose your own case, so if you think PPT is not nice, don't blame me.

Why is that? It is because I want to know what the real 90's are in the background of our so-called patriotic and fashionable country. What is their concept of how to use clothing to embody our culture nowadays? What is it about implementing specific colors and specific events? Then I told them that the font you chose was fashionable. They say traditional typefaces are the most fashionable fonts. It can be seen that consumers are not as complex as we think. Our consumers' view of popularity is actually influenced by the whole social environment, including the media, including our fashion trends. One of the biggest functions of fashion trends is not how accurate it is predicted, but how much psychological influence it brings to others. This is actually a subtle influence. Similarly, when we advocate the contemporary Chinese clothing culture, we are also based on the current social atmosphere and the voice of our industry.

Now the topic of contemporary Chinese clothing culture inheritance may be more appropriate. When I came in just now, the first speaker said, suddenly, a pile of Hanfu clothes on the street might not be so good and sold so expensive. The Hanfu brand business on the Internet is so good. My niece is in Australia. She wants to come back to attend a wedding. She says she wants to order a set of Hanfu clothes on the Internet. Finally, she has finished ordering all the clothes. It needs more than 10 thousand. It's not very good. The key is that she can't get it. It will take a year to get it.

Why does this happen in the streets? Is there street fashion in China? Young people in China do not have street fashion. There is only one street fashion in China. They can not be seen in the daytime. They can be seen after 9:30 pm. No, we have no graffiti, no punks, no strange people, nor those who live on the streets, because all these people belong to the police when they are being harnessing in the city. So in China, where is the cultural foundation? It's something that every entrepreneur needs to think about. Passive water can not be long, so today I would like to share with you a topic like this.

I will talk about these 5 topics with you as soon as possible.

First, it is necessary to promote the inheritance of Chinese clothing culture. I will not talk about the need for social development in this area. Many people have participated in thematic education, and they all know clearly. Such an activity or such a movement to promote the inheritance of contemporary Chinese clothing culture, China's clothing industry such a huge capacity, and facing the complex export situation, we must develop the Chinese local market. Just now, I heard a lot of speakers speaking at other venues to talk about the data and decide the future. I think this sentence is all right, but if you really want to think about it, 100 people will have 200 understandings. Data determine the future, more is to see how to collect and organize data, especially in the era of big data, we have so many data. If we just follow the data the simplest statistical results, for example, we look at the top 10 sales of Taobao, according to their style to develop our own industry, I think it is definitely not possible, because you can never exceed others, you are always just meeting the needs of consumers, "satisfaction" is just a stock problem, we have to create new increments. That is to say, we have to use fashion to not be completely judged by the public's future characteristics, so as to create a new market segment. So I have been speaking to President Feng, and I said I would like to join you in the grass dyeing alliance, because grass dyeing is the longest type of dye. I feel that Dean Feng did a great thing, that is, we should use traditional technology such as madder, safflower and so on, to change our past qualitative printing and dyeing patterns with a modern science and technology, and turn it into a dye with very good coloring properties.

The inheritance and creation of Chinese clothing is actually building a new space for our industry. Since we feel that Hanfu is not wearing well, now that we feel like a waitress in the hotel after wearing the cheongsam, we have complained that it has proved that there is a market and there is room for new development, so we have to change the state of imbalance between supply and demand. Of course, the creation of a new industry space will inevitably bring about many social and social influences. Through this way, we can build China's fashion culture attitude and fashion culture.

The construction of Chinese traditional etiquette and dress system in the new era can promote the garment industry to open up new markets, improve new businesses, and seek new growth points for the industry. Of course, it inevitably needs two support, one is the support of science and technology, and the other second is the support of art.

Second, the current situation and problems of the inheritance of Chinese clothing culture. To study this problem, we have to choose three points. One is wedding costumes and costumes. We feel that wearing traditional Chinese clothes is most proper and the most urgent thing is to get married. We chose a wedding dress. University, our etiquette education is not enough, I have met several foreigners to tell me that China's education problems, the dean of the school of design of University of Edinburgh, when teaching Chinese students, feel that Chinese students' etiquette view is not enough, so there is no idea of Chinese students' etiquette, so of course, we do not have too many etiquette occasions to allow children to participate. Children are playing piano or practicing dance when they are free, and how to make our students feel special about their social responsibilities after 18 years of age. At the same time, we looked for two other points, one from kindergarten to the other. Another is the diplomatic costumes, which is the needs of modern social development.

After investigation, we found that in the process of using traditional elements, there are misunderstandings about history, there are mixed forms, unreasonable patterns and so on. In addition, the market order is chaotic, the brand exists polarization. We also investigated the problems in this area and interviewed some consumers. We found that there are some characteristics in the high-end wedding dress brands. (see PPT) time relations, I will not tell you. Let's take a look. The low-end market is also very interesting, we see the first feeling is vulgar, no sense of fashion.

In a large category of clothing with Chinese characteristics, brand recognition is relatively low in general and lacks typical brands. Everyone here knows which Chinese cheongsam is the best seller. About annual sales? There is a brand of Chinese clothing in Shanghai, which is called Man Delai. Its annual sales volume is more than 400 million. It seems to have been relatively large. But for the clothing industry, it is really not a large number, indicating that the space of this type of clothing is still very large.

In the case of adult ceremony, we consulted provincial education committees in Jiangsu, Anhui and so on. They felt that there was such a need. The question was what kind of clothes they should wear to hold adult ceremony. In the year when their son graduated from high school, they put adult ceremony and high school graduation ceremony together. Of course, in a place like Shenzhen, it was a special adult ceremony lasting three years.

      As China's foreign exchanges become stronger and stronger, we need special diplomatic costumes as China's national strength is strong.

In view of these characteristics, we made a special review of diplomatic costumes in history. We also made a survey, and we found that people who would like to buy were in the majority. This surprised me. I think sometimes the wedding dress, if it is very fancy and expensive, will be enough to rent a set, because it will wear more than one hour at most. But now I find that after 90, the mood of buying wedding dress is particularly high, because they think it is a very important ceremony in my life. If I buy it and hang it at home, it will be all right. Maybe I will get divorced soon after I get married. The commemoration of my first marriage is very strong. I want to keep this memory. So after 90 is not another generation, but another kind of people, many of their ideas we have no way to understand.

Third, the historical and cultural genes of Chinese costume culture in the past dynasties. In view of the current situation and the desire of consumers, we must review and revisit the history and gene of Chinese historical dress culture. We found that our excavation of many Chinese historical and cultural costumes is very one-sided. This is what Wang said just now. Why do we make many fabrics worse and worse? The jacquard fabric that we made 20 years ago can not be done now. The patterns we can draw 20 years ago can not be painted now, so the brocade we see on the market will always make us feel very tacky.

In reviewing the Chinese traditional culture, I gave an example of the wedding dress in the Tang Dynasty. We feel that the bride now likes to wear red clothes, but in this picture of the Tang Dynasty in the murals of Dunhuang, we can see the bride and groom's clothes, the groom's clothes are red, and the bride's clothes are green. So I finally understood how the word "red man and green girl" came into being. People's wedding clothes were green and varied in color.

This is the restoration of the wedding dress in the Ming Dynasty. It is the design of a shop on the Internet. After seeing it, I feel quite surprised. In my concept, it seems that people in Ming Dynasty did not wear such clothes. There were only two possibilities. One was the clothes seller who was selling in the name of a wedding dress in the Ming Dynasty. Another possibility was that I was older, and I was mistaken. Of course, this dress is still good.

Based on this situation, we need to find a gene belonging to the culture of Chinese clothing. One of the attributes of our culture is that it is a history of memory, and it wants to create a contemporary culture, so we need to understand our own history with a cross cultural attitude. (see PPT), for example, this is the wedding dress of our contemporary people in the Tang Dynasty. This is the Tang Dynasty Hanfu, which has many new creations. Nowadays, traditional ceremonial wedding ceremonies are becoming more and more a joint participation by the parties, customized together, and done on a specific occasion, mainly from the "Hi". The guests are also more like hi, the parents and the matchmaker are the form of props.

This is the young people who wear Hanfu in the streets. They basically do not go to those remote alleys. They are seen to see others in the streets, and they see a lot in the streets. This reminds me of the earliest punks, the old American punks, when they were young, their parents did not care for him. When he grew up, he was very angry and said that I had grown so big that no one was paying attention to me. He hoped that the society would pay attention to them, and they would play a game of their own, such as dressing themselves up strangely. If you didn't look at them, they were very normal. You had to see them, they were very strange. I think this group of people wearing Han clothes is almost the same. They think the society has ignored him, so he wants to find a concern.

Of course, my students also talked to themselves. He added a Chinese costume that looks good to foreigners.

Fourth, the design logic of future Chinese clothing culture inheritance. Under the background of contemporary social life, we emphasize that the inheritance of Chinese clothing culture is not to restore us to the ancients. We can neither return to the Han Dynasty nor cross the Tang Dynasty. We live in the era of big data and artificial intelligence. Therefore, we must never forget that we are going to re deduce and redevelop the traditional culture from various aspects. If there is no such a process of re interpretation and redevelopment, we will not have the so-called inheritance. Therefore, under such a background, we should not only continue to develop the tradition, but also adapt it to the modern way of life, to find the dominant symbols and hidden connotations, and then to build a contemporary Chinese clothing market.

For this problem, I stay In 2015 and this year, we have made two exhibitions of contemporary Chinese style dress design. We not only show all the designer's clothes statically, make dynamic shows, but also let all the designers and the critics and experts of the exhibition hold a seminar to share with you.

This is an imitation of the design of adult ceremony costumes, next to the opening ceremony of a Confucius Institute, I feel that in such a foreign background to do this opening ceremony of the Confucius Institute, it is indeed very attractive.

This is the use of cloud shoulder in today's wedding dress, which is a network brand.

During the period of the Republic of China, we once had a book on Consular consul system. They found a dress of diplomats at that time. They could see the pattern and decoration of his collar cloth. This is the clothing of the Republic of China. We call it formal dress. It also follows the customs of the internation. At the same time, we also have the dress of our diplomats.

This is a mixed improvement of suits, tunic and Qipao.

This is the theme design of my headwear made with the characteristics of the Republic of China.

Fifth, suggestions on the inheritance of contemporary Chinese clothing culture. To promote the inheritance of contemporary Chinese clothing culture, it is necessary for practitioners and consumers to make joint efforts. In the industry perspective, we need the guidance of government and industry policies. We need division of labor, research and research, and then joint efforts. Our Chinese costume has a technological system from color to material to production, which requires us to establish and integrate a distinctive industrial chain and its platform. Of course, we also need to establish industry standards and group dress standards.

For enterprises, first of all, we should better understand the psychology of consumers from the perspective of social development, create and meet the needs of society and consumption, and build a new market segment.

We should fully realize what design is, design is not omnipotent, and design is not without reason. Design is actually a bridge between culture and products. By designing such a means to realize the refraction of culture on products, we must fully exert the function of such a bridge, do cultural enterprises, and create products with stories.

From a social point of view, we are going to create a contemporary fashion with Chinese traditional culture, which is to portray our new era. Therefore, we should enhance people's understanding and understanding of traditional culture and contemporary fashion from all levels, and create a group of consumers with taste.