Chanel: The Aesthetic Concept Of Virginie Viard Is Shaping.
It is said that Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel always watches her fashion show on the fifth steps of the famous mirror staircase, 31, Kang Peng street. The 5 is her lucky number. This fabulous "Chanel doctrine" is the masterpiece of the late Karl Lagerfeld. He used his eccentric sublime ability to make the Gabrielle dictionary highly rewritten, year after year. Those elements are always easy to identify, but they always look different. He pushed her symbols into totem symbols. That mirror staircase is one of them. Coco's apartment is another example, which is decorated with Coromandel screens and gorgeous crystal chandeliers.
As the successor of Lagerfeld, Virginie Viard's first advanced hand workshop series (M tiers D Art) reproduced the two scenes in The Grand Palace, and invited director Sophia Coppola (Sofia Coppola) to participate in the design. With four huge chandeliers landing before the exhibition, the atmosphere rose. Bright mirror staircase and gorgeous interior design (think of it: the living room is distributed around the fashion show, not part of the T itself) and elegantly matched with the costume itself.
When Viard continued to master this fashion house cautiously, her first advanced workshop series reached all the standards in the process of introducing advanced customized technology to the garments, and she absorbed the works of every Chanel handcrafted workshop, from the luxurious embroidery of Lesage and Montex, the flower and feather ornaments of Lemari, to the folds of Lognon and the exquisite shoes of Massaro.
The transformation of Viard is more like governing by doing nothing. She reduced the outline, the top coat and the low waist skirt were the main styles, keeping the classic black, white and golden tones, and suddenly added a faint sunset color. This strict framework provides creative space for craftsmen not only to decorate twill weave and silk, but also to create a whole feeling, from sparkling silver pants or feather shawls with Camellia designs to bubbling pearl covered cocktail dresses.
Lagerfeld's architectural cutting style, which has been on the way for many years, is now out of date. Viard clearly adopts a softer way of decorating with twill, such as two colored jackets lined with pearl necklaces, men's collars, and raspberry Satin duel series.
For her predecessors and beloved bosses, the annual senior handmade series is one of his best opportunities. Karl chose to show these series in Dallas Expo Park in Salzburg, Hamburg, Texas, and even in the Cinecitta studio in Rome. But as the great master's enthusiasm for tourism has passed away, Viard's own view is taking shape.
On the one hand, her Chanel is more sexy than the late Lagerfeld design. The black skirt with the gold belt has almost the vampire charm, from the middle to the thigh skin, and finally to the waist of the Gigi Hadid pearl. In addition, Viard has begun to create a sense of lightness in her own sport, whether it is tie dyed silk T-shirt or her humorous trademark design in each of her series so far.
Therefore, in her new direction, the history of Chanel has added more Lyric emotions, and the undisguised Paris style that she displays may also win her new fans. Over time, plus the skills of a bag that Chanel has stored, she will write her own chapter in this French fashion house.
Source: BOF
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