Clothing Format In "Cold Current"
Closing stores, evacuating and losing money
Statistics from the National Bureau of statistics show that sales of clothing and cloth have dropped to varying degrees in the same period from the fourth quarter of 2017. Among them, clothing sales in 2018 were 54 billion 60 million, compared with 71 billion 910 million in 2017 dropped by 24.8%. Frozen feet are not cold for a day. Sales of clothing industry have declined for two consecutive years.
This year's "double 11", Taobao's total turnover of 268 billion 400 million yuan has made people feel the new wave of consumption in China. However, when the wave comes, some people are going up and down, standing tall and upright, while others are falling down to the waves and being killed on the beach.
In November 25th, GAP, the world's leading apparel retailer and one of the largest clothing companies in the United States, will withdraw its Old Navy from China in 2020. On the same day, the Swiss luxury goods company announced that its website will be closed by the end of February next year. Yoox.cn 。 Acclimatization is a common and difficult brand for foreign clothing brands. With the rise of Chinese local brands, the price and trendy advantages of fast fashion clothing brands from overseas have not been there.
Since 2018, a number of foreign clothing brands, including New Look, Forever 21 (Forever 21) and top store (TOPSHOP), have announced their withdrawal from the Chinese market.
It is not just foreign enterprises that are affected by the cold current in the market, but the days of domestic clothing brands are actually not good enough. It is reported that once known as "the first national dress brand" La Xia Bei is facing "difficult times". In the first three quarters of this year, the loss was over 800 million yuan, and the average number of stores was closed by 4517 stores on average 14 per day. Metersbonwe lost more than 300 million yuan in 2017, and lost more than 200 million yuan in the first three quarters of 2019. In addition, after the huge losses, the birds and birds were busy closing stores, and even the birds of fortune went to the auction where they were bankrupt.
The strength of "Yu Huang"
It is the environment of the market that determines the closet and withdrawal of the clothing enterprises. Zhu Huachang, an expert and consultant of the China Business Economics Association, analyzes the importance of consumption upgrading. New brands, materials and styles have replaced old, traditional brands, materials and styles.
In fact, not every foreign brand has the problem of water and soil adaptation. Canadian geese are singing all the way to China. In the second quarter of September 29th this year, Canada goose income rose 27.7% to 294 million yuan, higher than analysts' expectations of $267 million 300 thousand, gross profit margin was 54.6%, net profit rose 21.4% to 49 million 900 thousand Canadian dollars, and also exceeded analysts' expectations.
In view of the fact that China has become the world's largest luxury market, Danny Rice, chief executive of Canada goose, stressed that since the end of the year, the company has opened new stores in Hongkong and Beijing and integrated into the Tmall platform. Canada goose will continue to expand the Chinese market, especially in the mainland market, Dani Reiss.
Canadian geese have just started their excitement in the Chinese market and have to cope with the wave of China's "wave brand" Bosideng. Over the past year, the systemic transformation of Bosideng, the first down jacket brand in China, has attracted the attention of the whole industry. From 2018 to 2019, when the overall market downturn slowly increased, Bosideng achieved the upstream.
According to Boston 2018/2019 annual report, operating income was 10 billion 384 million yuan, up 16.9% over the same period last year. Gross profit increased by 33.9% to 5 billion 514 million yuan, and gross margin increased 6.7 percentage point to 53.1%. It is worth noting that the income of down garment business is RMB 7 billion 658 million yuan, up 35.5% from the same period last year. The main brand Bosideng eiderdown income increased 38.3% to RMB 6 billion 849 million yuan, contributing continuously to the development of the group, which is the largest engine for group development.
Zhu Huachang said: "this is what we often say: only weak commodities, there is no weak market. Whoever constantly innovates and grasps the trend will occupy the market and dominate the market. "
Bosideng's successful counterattack depends on hard power, and at the same time, it is inseparable from "tide".
No consumption or high consumption?
The biggest decision in the market is still on consumers. The root cause of the overall decline in the apparel industry is that there are too few people to pay. The statistics of China's commodity sales released by the China Federation of Commerce and the China National Business Information Center show that in 2018, the volume of retail sales of clothing in major retail enterprises nationwide dropped by 4.2%.
Xiao Wen, a post-80s Beijing consumer, is a white-collar worker. She said: "there is no clothing consumption for 3 consecutive months." There are three reasons for this. First, the pace of work in Beijing is too fast to buy clothes. Second, after several years of buying, buying and buying, the consumption of clothing has reached a saturation stage. Third, there is limited space for clothes to be accommodated.
Xiao Wen's consumption perception only represents some consumers. However, the overall decline of clothing consumption should also be closely related to the market environment. Also from the National Bureau of statistics data, in 2018, the per capita clothing consumption expenditure of the whole country was 1289 yuan, an increase of 4.1% over the same period last year, and the growth rate was 1.2 percentage points faster than that of the same period last year. This data strongly proves that clothing consumption expenditure will not decrease or increase while the number is decreasing.
"The price of single item clothing is on the rise, which is also explaining the upgrading of consumption. The upgrading of consumption has led to an increase in expenditure. The problem is that on the "per capita", some high-income high-income groups are buying clothing abroad. (now the number of outbound passengers is 100 million per year, the average expenditure per capita is nearly 10000 yuan, and part of the total expenditure is high-end clothing), which has raised the per capita clothing expenditure. Zhu Huachang said. Li Li, a consumer of "70 after", consumed a brand cashmere coat during the period of double 11, and the consumption of his coat was 1899 yuan. "I no longer consume cheap clothes, but I want to buy good quality, so I wear them for a long time." Li Li said.
Driven by the once popular "broken off" lifestyle, perhaps the consumer wardrobe is "subtracting", while the clothing grade is being added. A group of data on feather clothing shows that the price of fast fashion brand down clothing has increased this year. Among the 68 fast fashion brand down garments, the proportion of 1000 yuan or above products is 30.9%, the highest proportion in all price bands. At the same time, the down jacket below 1000 yuan is relatively cold. To sum up, consumers do not like to buy clothes, but become more picky and more particular.
Source: Zheng Yu, author of cultural fortune weekly
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