Recommend Key Fashion Trends Of 2022 / 23 Autumn / Winter Fabrics
Key words of fabric trend in autumn and winter 2022 / 23
In the face of social, political, environmental and economic challenges, consumers will gradually develop the habit of daily healing in 2022 / 23. The technology development in the field of engineering products, food and materials will be increasingly commercialized, aiming at protecting natural resources and opening up a supernatural future. With the continuous improvement of consumers' health awareness, promoting physical and mental health, exploring high-tech products to respond to public emotions has become an indispensable topic. At the same time, consumers pay more and more attention to cost saving and waste reduction. Durable products that can be reused and recycled will be more and more popular. People began to pay close attention to the slow handicraft, forcing all walks of life to break the thinking and innovate constantly, and the fabric textile industry is no exception. The added value of fabrics and fabrics has been focused in this season. The fibers full of healing and pleasure also give men and women new functions and wearing experience of autumn and winter fabrics, making the fabrics more natural, environmental protection, and the trend direction of future science and technology.
This report summarizes and refines the key words of the latest fabrics in autumn and winter 2022 / 23 men's and women's wear market from the perspectives of fiber, function, process technology, texture change and so on.
Bio based sustainability
Bio based fiber refers to the fiber made from renewable organisms or biological extracts, which is different from the fiber produced by non renewable petrochemical resources such as coal and petroleum. According to the production process, bio based fiber can be divided into bio based primary fiber and bio based chemical fiber.
Bio based chemical fiber is a kind of fiber which is made of biomass as raw material or polymer containing monomer from biomass. It includes bio based regenerated fiber and bio based synthetic fiber.
The difference is that the biological regenerated fiber does not change the original chemical structure of biomass macromolecules, and the spinning process is the reconstruction of its physical form; The chemical and physical properties of bio based synthetic fibers depend on the monomers used, and the original chemical structure of biomass macromolecules is completely changed.
With the continuous innovation and development of bio based chemical fiber, bio based raw materials gradually changed from corn starch, sugarcane, sugar beet and other raw materials to the second generation of corn straw, bagasse, wood chips, straw, wheat straw, high stalk forage, etc., avoiding the conflict of food resources and getting rid of the impact of agricultural crop production cycle. The bio based content of fiber can reach 100% from 30% - 47%.
Introduction of bio based chemical fiber
Introduction to fiber: Sorona, Sorona polymer is made of 1,3-propanediol (PDO) and PTA (or DMT). PDO is the key raw material, accounting for 37% of the total raw material. PDO can be made by petrochemical process, while DuPont company of the United States has successfully produced PDO for Sorona production by using corn sugar fermentation method, which has revolutionarily injected new environmental protection concept into the chemical fiber field. Shutan silk ? It's Sorona ? At present, it is also the only kind of short fiber elastic fiber which reaches the industrial production level in the world, and can be blended with many kinds of fibers. The fabric has good shape retention and is not easy to wrinkle when wearing. Sorona ? Sun silk is a new type of fiber with heat preservation effect, which is blended into fabric by adding heat storage material into the fiber ° The heating capacity of.
Brand trends: Anta, hanger, selected, mini peace, liyingfang
Authentication mechanism: via Sorona ? CommonThread ? The fabric of fabric certification system will clearly and intuitively provide five soronas for designers and clothing brands ? The performance characteristics of fiber fabrics.
Fiber introduction: Bio Based Polyamide pa56 (Talon) is a kind of high polymer synthesized by biogenic glutamine and petroleum based adipic acid, in which the content of bio group is more than 40%. The production of bio based pa56 can reduce dependence on oil and carbon dioxide emissions. It is in line with the development trend of new materials in the future. Genomatica Biotechnology Co., Ltd. has developed a process for the production of 100% bio based caprolactam and is cooperating with aquafil company of Italy to produce the first batch of 100% renewable PA6 in the world. The technology of PA6 is similar to beer production. The sugar extracted from a plant can be fermented to produce caprolactam by microbial fermentation. Compared with the traditional PA6, bio based PA6 can reduce the industrial room temperature gas emissions, and has less impact on the environment.
Brand dynamics: lululemon, VAUDE, carvico, Marck & Balsan certification mechanism: Talon tag can be provided in China
pineapple fiber
Pineapple fiber is also known as pineapple hemp. Fiber extraction method is the same as bast fiber, which needs to be extracted by degumming process, then spinning, weaving, clothing. Pineapple fiber has white appearance and comfortable handle. For example, silk can be pure spun or blended with hemp fiber or other natural fiber and chemical fiber to make yarn. The fabric is easy to be printed and dyed, has good drapability, high gloss, and good environmental protection and wearability. It was once used as the leader of APEC summit.
In 2014, Ananas ANAM UK successfully launched leather piatex made of pineapple fiber. By collecting the discarded Pineapple leaves, the fluffy fiber PALF was mixed with corn based polylactic acid (PLA) by a process similar to paper pulp making. The non-woven fabric mesh is produced by the non-woven fabric production process as the bottom of piatex leather. Piatex leather is similar to animal leather, which does not harm any animals in the production, and can solve the environmental damage caused by the extensive use of chemical agents in the production of imitation leather.
Introduction of new bio based fibers
Sicily in the Mediterranean can be said to be a paradise for orange and other citrus fruits. From the perspective of economy and environment, the Italian orange pressing industry produces more than 700000 tons of processing by-products that must be discarded every year, which is very expensive. The patent developed by orange fiber allows this processing residue to be converted into high-quality fabrics without the need to subtract raw materials from the food industry or to use by-products intended for processing. Orange fiber (orange fiber) is a kind of wet residue in the industrial production of citrus juice. Compared with the existing man-made cellulose, orange fiber does not exploit natural resources, but uses by-products, so as to reduce land reclamation and water resources intake, as well as pesticide pollution of land and water resources. Italian luxury retailer Salvatore Ferragamo became orange fiber's first customer with orange fiber twill.
Vegealeather grape leather was born out of the desire to recycle and reuse the waste of Italian wine industry. Here, the solid residues of pressed grapes (grape skin residue, including skin, pulp, seeds and stems) are combined with vegetable oil and water-based polyurethane (PUD) to create an ecological composite material, which will not harm animals or use any animal products in the production process. The bio based material is then coated on organic cotton to form leather substitutes made from more than 70% renewable and recyclable raw materials. Vegealeather grape leather uses and reuses waste materials, which expands the use of grapes and makes the wine making process more circular. Vegealeather grape leather is soft, smooth, stable, 100% sustainable and recyclable.
Low consumption and environmental protection printing and dyeing
As the international community and domestic politics pay more and more attention to "carbon neutrality", consumers begin to pay attention to the impact of individual consumption behavior on the natural environment. The comprehensive influence of political, economic, social and other factors forces enterprises to speed up the upgrading of environmental protection. The development of printing and dyeing, which plays a key role in the value-added of garment fabrics, has become an important theme for the leaders of textile technology industry. The main direction of the future is to actively develop environmental protection technology to replace the outdated backward technology and return to the natural origin. In 2022 / 2023, natural dyeing technology is becoming more and more popular among consumers. Low consumption and environmental protection printing and dyeing technology can effectively reduce the pollution of nature and plunder of natural resources. Due to the loss of water resources, dye auxiliaries, carbon dioxide emission, electric energy, steam and residual treatment, any new technology which can reduce the process flow and loss has a certain degree of low consumption and environmental protection.
Introduction of low consumption and environmental protection printing and dyeing technology
Technology introduction: in 2014, Nike's first waterless dyeing T-shirt came into the market, marking that the water-free dyeing technology has entered the commercial operation stage, and also marks that the printing and dyeing textile industry has stepped into a revolutionary step. In recent years, the research in the field of waterless dyeing and printing includes Kunshan Dongli new material's e.dye technology in synthetic fiber and Hangzhou xintianyuan's color spinning technology in tr blended yarn. With the upgrading of non washable disperse printing dye technology, the traditional flat screen printing, circular screen printing and foaming printing are expected to be combined with digital printing in the future to develop high-quality environmental protection printing fabrics.
Brand dynamics: Anta, ferro, sail racing, Sportfield
Technology introduction: Huzhou Xinli trademark Belt Making Co., Ltd. and Zhejiang University of science and technology jointly study how to effectively use nylon 6 waste silk, develop a reasonable dissolving and glue making process, and make suitable coating glue, which can be used in various printing equipment: rotary printing, flexographic printing, screen printing brush, flat press, TTR heat transfer printing, which conforms to oeko-texi standard. Lutai group invented a garment washing process with fog water as carrier to increase washing balls, reduce the use of water energy, and increase the soft handle after washing.
Brand trends: JNBY, icicle, exception
Antibacterial protection
Antibacterial is the ability to kill or inhibit the growth and reproduction of bacteria. Bacteriostasis can inhibit the growth and reproduction of bacteria, but can not kill them. At present, the detection of this aspect in China generally adopts GB / t-20944.3-2008 oscillation method or GB / t-20944.2-2007 absorption method, and the evaluation method is generally reflected in the way of bacteriostasis. The main bacterial species detected were Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and Candida albicans. The existing antibacterial function is mainly obtained by physical or chemical modification of fiber, and adding additives in fabric or garment finishing.
Introduction of antibacterial fiber & Technology
Fiber introduction: gramineous fiber is a kind of bio based fiber. It is a kind of selected microorganism cultured in large quantities with glucose produced by corn starch as the main raw material, and then a polyester PHBV in the microbial body is extracted, and then a new fiber is produced by spinning process. After contacting with bacteria, it destroys the cell wall of harmful bacteria and inhibits the growth of bacteria, so as to achieve the effect of antibacterial and deodorization. It has anti-virus (four poisons), recyclable and degradable, good biological safety and compatibility, deodorization and odor elimination, and certain flame retardant, quick drying, heating and health care, anti ultraviolet and other functions.
Brand dynamics: Hesu fiber, nylon filament and polyester staple fiber have been mass produced
Technology introduction: xianbaodun is the commercial name of Dow intelligent silver ion textile antibacterial technology. It is the first and only water-based silver polymer conveying system in the world. The core technology is to send low concentration silver ions to the surface of fabric, and activate them in the presence of harmful bacteria, which can effectively kill and inhibit the harmful bacteria that can cause odor, corruption, decay and discoloration of fabric fibers. After more than 50 times of washing, xiandun still has extraordinary antibacterial activity, and will not make the fabric yellow or fade. The clothes treated by xiandun will not cause skin allergy or irritation, nor will silver particles be released into the environment. In the process of processing, xiandun antibacterial agent can also be recycled and reused.
Brand dynamics: from the initial cooperation with shoes brand Tebu and underwear brand amour to now with fashion men's clothing brand taipingniao, xianbaodun has basically covered all kinds of domestic brands.
Thermal storage
The main purpose of heat preservation is to prevent the heat loss of human body, so as to balance the energy exchange between the heat generated by human body and the heat lost to the environment, so as to achieve the thermal comfort of human body. In order to reduce the heat conduction and convection of thermal insulation materials by increasing the air storage in the fiber, the traditional materials to improve the thermal insulation performance mainly rely on increasing the thickness and density of the fabric. With the development of society and the change of life style, people are more and more pursuing the way of keeping warm which is lighter, more comfortable and healthy. The research on the performance of intelligent thermal insulation materials has become a new competitive point in the thermal insulation market. In the future, the functions of thermal insulation materials will be more diversified and their structures will be more complex.
Thermal storage fiber & Technology Introduction
Fiber introduction: the fiber which can keep warm by changing the internal structure of the fiber is the main force in the current heat preservation market, and is widely used in filling materials and developing needle woven thermal insulation fabrics.
Brand dynamics: Thermolite from DuPont and dralon from Bayer are the representative brands of this kind of fiber. In addition, eks fiber of Toyo spinning and thermowear fiber developed by Asahi Chemical Co., Ltd. of Japan are representative brands of moisture absorption and heat preservation through complementary performance of different fibers. In the past two years, the outlast fiber technology developed by NASA uses microencapsulated thermosensitive phase change material, namely hydrocarbon-wax, which can absorb, store and release heat in the form of latent heat. It can realize the mutual transformation of solid and liquid in the process of temperature change, so that the purpose of heat absorption and heat release can be achieved easily. This technology has been successfully developed by primaoft G company ? Crosscore, the domestic xingfengqiang company has successfully developed zero down.
Fiber introduction: intelligent thermal insulation materials can be roughly divided into intelligent textile materials and flexible electronic components. Among them, intelligent textile materials are textiles that have the ability to perceive or respond to external stimuli, such as heat storage materials, shape memory materials, etc. Flexible electrical components mainly refer to the flexible heating elements made of metal wire, carbon fiber, carbon nanotube, graphene and other electrical heating materials. Through the use of information technology, microelectronics technology, flexible circuit and flexible battery, they can provide heat source for cold proof clothing.
Brand dynamics: Japan is the country that reports more about thermal storage fiber in the world now. Solar touch solar thermal storage fiber developed by omikenshi Co., Ltd. is prepared by adding compound particles (such as zirconium carbide) in the spinning process based on the principle of photothermal conversion. China has made a breakthrough in the development of carbon nanoparticles, graphene and other electrical heating materials.
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