What Are The Tide Cards? What Are The Tide Cards In China

　　 Let's start with a question. Why hasn't China played a good fashion card?

　 The simple combination of Chinese elements and subculture is not a fashion card

If you like Guochao, you may only help a certain brand's sales for a while, but you won't like it from the heart, because those products have no roots. “

"This is not the rise of the national tide, but the kidnapping of national emotions. It is not a brand that has gone abroad for two shows, or it has risen. “

"These trendy brands label themselves as publicity, personality and fashion. However, the head of roaringwild also said that they are clothes sellers, which is no different from MetS Bonwe. “

The difference between China's fashion brands is the influence of brand symbols on the crowd and the culture carried by brands. “

　　 The main reason is that there is no foundation for the establishment of European and American fashion brand concept in China. First, street culture, China has no genes, no skateboards, no graffiti, no hippies, no black people or religious issues. Second, social sensitive topics do not have marketing soil in China, so it is difficult to spread them. The practice of American tide brand is not easy to copy.

　　 What is the tide card

Definition of tide card

The word "chaopai" was invented by Chinese. In English, chaopai is street wear. From hip hop fashion in New York and surfing culture in California, this street dress style has developed into sports wear, punk, skateboarding and Japanese street fashion elements.

The beginning of the tide card

The origin of chaopai has to mention surfing and skateboarding, and skateboarding is the extension of surfing on the land, which is said to be the result of "playing" by surfers. If you can't surf, add a metal wheel under a skateboard and slide on the flat ground. This is the prototype of skateboarding. But the performance of this kind of skateboard is still not ideal.

In the 1970s and 1980s, an American named Shawn stussy took a new look at skateboarding. He invented a skateboard game called Ollie. This kind of play is people with the skateboard jump together, but the skateboard will not fall. In fact, it seems that the result of this ordinary action is numerous.

　 The mainstream media in the United States widely believe that stussy is the first person in street fashion. Because he likes surfing and skateboarding, he often signs his graffiti signature on the skateboard. Gradually, he printed the graffiti on T-shirts for sale. Therefore, we will also see that graffiti art is one of the important subcultures that affect the development of chaopai.

As stussy's sales peaked, it turned to exclusive sales to create product scarcity, Thus established the final baseline definition of street clothing: T-shirt and exclusivity. In the early 1990s, emerging record companies associated with pop hip-hop music began selling branded products embroidered on jackets and overalls produced by companies such as CARHARTT, a 130 year old American brand that consumers include construction workers, manufacturing workers, farmers, and outdoor enthusiasts. In the middle and late 1990s, skateboarding and gangster rap also deeply influenced the development of chaopai. In 2000, with the emergence of "bling" culture (especially the gorgeous jewelry culture worn as a symbol of wealth or status), luxury fashion brands (designer brands) entered the market, Burberry, Gucci and Fendi appeared in hip-hop videos and movies. Then fashion clothing manufacturers began to follow the street clothing companies and adopt the idea of limited edition, now known as "drop" ", using social media and product scarcity as marketing tools.

The paradox in the development of chaopai

If you want to continue to develop and expand your own brand, you need to expand the production scale and expand the user population. It means making yourself sleek in the brand image.

　 Difference between fashion brand and designer brand

The fashion brand comes from the street, and the designer brand comes from the temple.

The definition of designer brand: designer clothing is expensive luxury clothing, which is considered as high-quality and high-end fashion of the general public, which is made or labeled by famous fashion designers. Designer clothing brands are not always made by the company's founders. For example, Chanel's designer was not Gabrielle Chanel, the original founder and designer, but French designer Virginia Viard. The quality of the garments and their similarity to the designer's work, if any, vary greatly depending on the terms of the agreement between the licensee and the designer, allowing the designer to reject any design that he considers unattractive. It includes Balenciaga, Balmain, berluti, BV, Burberry, Celine, Cl, Dior, Fendi, Givenchy, Gucci, Hermes, Kenzo, Loewe, LV, YSL, Prada, Valentino, etc. The authorization of designer names was initiated by designers such as Pierre Cardin in the 1960s and has been common in the fashion industry since the 1970s.

　 In fact, fashion brands are gradually getting closer to the street brands, and the fashion brands are gradually getting closer to the fashion brands. For example, the founder of the famous fashion brand palm angels used the word "luxury Street brand" when describing its brand positioning. He thought that we could use high-grade fabrics, exquisite tailoring techniques and luxury marketing management methods to manage a brand that expresses street cultural ideas and has the loose version and cultural symbol characteristics favored by young people.

Although this sentence is a bit lengthy, it may be the reason for the mutual assimilation between the current fashion brands and fashion brands. Of course, there are many brands between the two. In the information age, the cultural influence that people are exposed to is very messy and not very refined, For example, rap and street culture have come into public view, This is also the product of this era. After all, consumers need a sense of culture and identity, like the most publicized fashion elements, but consumers also like exquisite tailoring, high-end fabrics, and even the sense of superiority brought about by the price threshold. This trend has created a huge market space and potential for the current and even future "fashion brand" positioning.

Fashion brand is like an advanced road to fashion. It is a process of street brands gradually turning into fashion brands. Fashion is expensive because the starting point of their stories is that they have a long history. They first served nobles or people with higher social class. For example, LV started as a suitcase and served the Royal family. In terms of clothing, many fashion brands initially made some high-level decisions.

In a large number of street brands, they pay more attention to the cultural symbols expressed in the design, as well as the sense of identity between the wearers, and more emphasis on the wearing scene of clothing, so this kind of design is more easily recognized by the public.

From street fashion to fashion is the whole process of brand from "street" to "Hall of elegance". This is a very ironic but also has to admit. Those who initially attracted fans by flaunting "personality, rebellion, and challenging authority" have finally become the secular appearance they once hated.

　　 History of chaopai

　　 Meichao three giants (old street brand)

Story of stussy, supreme, undefeated

　　 Stussy (1980) the originator of chaopai

Brand story and background

In the 1960s, the United States was full of rock music, hippie culture and all kinds of illegal drugs, which was called "Beat Generation". In the 1970s, when punk came into being, the 1980s brought us rap. Punk broke the boundary between creation and aesthetic feeling and taught us that anyone can set up band to enjoy the charm of music. Rap is constantly pushing forward the boundaries of social traditions and exploring the essence of remixing & sampling. These new ideas and territories have created a new stage for the expression and dissemination of fashion and culture. With stussy's success and spread to all parts of the world, fashion pioneers in New York, London, Tokyo and other regions are linked. Stussy's design inspiration comes from international musicians, extreme sports, DJs and artists with the same or similar taste, which also helps stussy become a global international street pioneer.

　　 So how does stussy get to the peak step by step?

　　 The founder was born on the west coast. In 1968, Shawn, 16, found his first surfboard in his father's garage and began to learn how to make it. Two years later, he was admired by the local surfboard factory for his craftsmanship.

　　 In 1979, when the scallstock band was introduced into the American surfboard store, most of his works were in the United States. As a punk, Shawn combines innovative shapes with reggae and new wave music to design the stussy signature logo.

In 1980, when Shawn stussy began to sell surf clothing and supplies on Laguna Beach in California, he might not have expected that his name would be sought after and even worshipped by countless people in the future.

　　 In 1982, Shawn not only retailed surfboards with their own design signature, but also designed Black T with stussy as a gift. As a result, people seemed to be more interested in T, so they sold them for $8 each. As a result, surfboards sold for $24 and T-shirts sold for more than 1000. That year, he began to sign his most famous surfboard graffiti on tee and began selling them with surfboards.

　　 In 1984, the trademark was officially established. At that time, the lack of media, graffiti has become the most powerful way for contemporary youth to express their dissatisfaction. At that time, there was no concept of "street brand" and "street wear" in the market, and high-end fashion house was still the mainstream of society. Stussy broke away from the Convention and took leisure as the guide, and directly combined the graphic elements such as graffiti, symbols, slogans and photos, and expressed his attitude in a form called campaign, It established the brand representative grainy black and white aesthetics, and established stussy's campaign image keynote in the following decades. In the photos, different characters are changed into the street costumes of stussy, expressing the rebellious spirit of the street through different scenes.

　　 As the production of clothes gradually expanded, Shawn stussy started a company selling surfing clothes and supplies, and launched the brand "stussy". The name of the graffiti became a trademark of the brand.

　　 In this way, Shawn stussy's original and modern fashion aesthetic concept quickly developed into a new generation of beach culture. From surfing to fashion to skateboarding, stussy has completed a rather difficult transformation. He added the design of skateboard clothes, work clothes and old school uniforms into stussy's clothing design, forming another street clothing different from the original style. At that time, the street clothing industry was also facing changes, the birth of new brands, the popularity of large size clothing... Stussy took this rare opportunity to establish its important position in the field of street clothing.

In the late 1980s, skateboarding culture rose in Europe and Japan. Although stussy is rooted in the street brand of surfing culture, skateboarding culture is derived from surfing. The first skateboards were made by surfboard shops in California. Skateboarding is called "sidewalk surfing". People who like skateboarding naturally gather in parks and streets to form a special community culture.

Popular is like a rebel, rebelling against the classic, but after a period of time, the then popular will be transformed into a new classic. Stussy has created such a popular classic in a quarter of a century by virtue of every carefully made product.

?SUPREME（1994）

This is a box of matches:

This is a box It's trendy and cool Match:

The influence of supreme in the history of the development of chaopai lies in the "drop-off" promoted by it "Concept. Every week, supreme will release exclusive new products in a certain store in a limited time. This short-term, hide and seek sales model has attracted curious young people. So far, there are only a dozen legitimate online shops of supreme all over the world. Because there are few offline stores, many fans go far away and wait for more than 20 hours to buy their limited edition products Products.

Supreme is a brand founded by British Jame jebbia in New York, USA. its original intention is the highest and supreme. Supreme started with skateboarding culture, and as of 2021, it has only official stores in the UK, Japan and the United States.

In the 1980s, Jame jebbia came to work in the United States. He first worked in parachute, a trendy store in New York City, for six years, and then participated in the founding process of the skateboard brands Union and stussy. In 1994, jebbias, 30, raised $12000 to start supreme in New York, still doing skateboarding. At first, we only sold some simple T-shirts and hats. All by word of mouth skateboarding youth, in the small circle gradually attracted attention.

When supreme was founded in April 1994, it was just one of SOHO's skateboarding shops. James is just a small base for the budding New York skateboard circle. When it opened, supreme only made three T-shirts: still photo of De Niro in taxi driver, photo of exploding head skater and box logo.

Supreme's design style is not special, but it still conveys a kind of "cool". Young people love consumption, but they also pursue treason, always with an anti business attitude to shopping. Supreme's products just meet this demand. The logo of supreme and the note design with white characters on red background directly refers to the series of works by artist Barbara Kruger satirizing consumer culture.

James jebbia, the founder of supreme, didn't expect supreme to become a global Street clothing brand giant. It all starts with Ken Omura, a Japanese agent from onegram. At that time, Japanese street fashion enthusiasts had begun to pursue Supreme (1998). So Ken advised James to open a store in Japan. "Sume sees it as a brand change for me before and after sume's success," he said, "it's not just a big store for me to open before and after sume's success."

James jebbia started two stores in New York City in 1989 and 1991, which are known as union and stussy. However, the experience of store operation is not enough to make a good brand, so he needs to establish a design team. James first hired three designers to help him from a brand with only screen printed T-shirts to a major clothing brand recognized by mainstream entertainment stars in five years. You may only associate supreme with James jebbia, but in fact, the people who first set the tone for supreme, precipitated classic pieces, and even influenced the design ideas of street clothing and luxury brands for more than ten years were the three street brand designers who had no experience in garment production and had no professional background in design.

In 1998, supreme has opened three stores in Tokyo, Osaka and Fukuoka through onegram. Since then, supreme has taken off and even launched MTV Japan (1998). Big platform endorsement is very important for clothing brands. If we didn't come to Japan, supreme would not be today. James knew at that time that Japan could create trends, and only by growing in Japan and then bringing the momentum back to the United States could he succeed.

Japanese consumers' enthusiasm for supreme can be seen from the form of store sales. As early as 2000, Japan gradually implemented lottery sales, while New York stores only started in 2017.

　　 Out of the circle depends on joint names? When it comes to co branding in fashion, We have to mention supreme and Lv. As early as 2000, supreme once spoofed Lv's logo and became the defendant - the background of this big story has always been known to all. However, it is surprising that at the autumn and winter fashion week in Paris in 2017, the two brands came together regardless of the past and immediately bombed the whole fashion circle. Then supreme played the co branding to the extreme, which led to the supreme of all things.

?UNDEFEATED（2002）

Undefeated, translated into Chinese, means "not to be knocked down". It was created by James Bond and Eddi Cruz in La in 2002. Since Eddie Cruz, the founder of supreme, was originally one of the members of supreme, undefeated can always get some limited shoes of major brands for sale, and thus quickly accumulated a lot of volume, and then successively connected with Nike, Adidas, puma, etc New balance and other well-known brands have become famous jointly, which has created an invincible position today. Although it has a name that is destined to be handsome for a lifetime, in fact, the person in charge at that time was in memory of the people affected by the 9 / 11 incident. Therefore, the brand was named undefed, hoping to inspire people's hearts and not be knocked down by terrorist attacks. Therefore, it is not difficult for those who are paying attention to undefeated to find that its products are nothing more than camouflage, military green, boxing Judo and other antagonistic elements, so it is not a card, it has nothing to do with skateboarding.

　　 European and American fashion brand

Donda trend "Top Men's team"

When talking about the American tide brand, we have to mention half of the tide circle Donda. The status of this venture capital organization in the United States is comparable to that of PayPal.

If PayPal is the cradle of entrepreneurs, and has set up many new and influential companies in Silicon Valley, then donda is the cradle of trend managers. As a "Nanjing primary school student", Kanye is a crazy fashion maker. By incubating its highly talented members, they can develop and take charge of their own brands, Become the mainstay of fashion circle and even fashion circle.

On January 5, 2012, Kanye West, named after his late mother, announced donda on his twitter. Kanye himself has said that donda will help many young artists without background to realize their dreams by stimulating their creativity.

As can be seen from the above figure, it covers a wide range of cultural and art related commercial activities, including not only the founder of off white virgin abloh, the founder of fear of God, Jerry Lorenzo, the founder of a cold wall, Samuel Ross, the founder of a cold wall, but also many artists from the music and entertainment industries, covering a series of cultural and art related commercial activities.

Although donda broke up in 2018 for various reasons and eventually parted ways, it has to be admitted that donda is also a fashion myth.

Why can off white, born less than 10 years ago, become the top of the fashion industry?

Founder virgin abloh (died of cancer at the end of 2021): the second generation of Ghanaian American immigrants of African descent, Virgil abloh chose the mechanical major under the planning of his father when he was a child. However, it was not long since he was a child, because he grew up in the suburbs of the United States, Virgil abloh was deeply influenced by the American Dream since he was a young man of science and technology who likes fashion and hip-hop culture, In private, he is a fanatic of fashion culture: he is not only a part-time DJ, involved in the creation of fashion brands, but also organized a fashion forum called the brilliance as the main operator.

Because of this experience, Virgil abloh, who just graduated from her master's degree in 2003, did not even have time to attend the graduation ceremony. She was invited by Kanye West, a rapper and 21 Grammy winner, to join his creative agency, Dongda agency, and act as the chief consultant. When he joined Kanye West's team, in fact, he entered the fashion circle. Since then, Virgil has appeared in fashion parties.

In 2012, virgin abloh, a successful member of the circle, initiated its own trend brand, Pyrex vision. He bought champion T-shirts and Ralph Lauren flannel antique clothes at a low price, and then through screen printing and Pyrex vision logo, these unsalable items became the darling of the $550 Street trend. Pyrex vision sells logos. In fact, before that, the popularity of fashion brands such as supreme and stussy has proved this view: it is not so much a commodity that street trendsetters buy, but rather a group identity. Whatever it is, as long as it is labeled with group identity, it is a brand that celebrities in their circle use and recognize, Ordinary things change into fashion goods. This is also the root cause of the phenomenon of "everything can be supreme". For fashion brands, fashion brands and even some niche brands, the crowd attribute behind the brand is far more important than the use value of goods.

In 2013, virgin abloh closed Pyrex vision and launched off-white the following year.

In 2017, off-white and Nike launched the co branded series "the ten.". Virgil abloh did it himself, using a unique "Deconstruction" design and a "perspective" design. The so-called "splitting" of the "translucent" elements in the shoe means that people can see some of the "translucent" elements together. Finally, with the air jordan 1 in the "the ten" series, Virgil abloh beat gianvito Rossi and Ronnie FIEG to win the 31st annual achievement awards. And the off-white brand itself has quickly emerged because of the co branding with Nike. According to the index released by the luxury search engine LYST, three of the top 20 fashion products in 2017 came from off-white. It was the first time off white surpassed Gucci and Balenciaga to become a popular brand.

It is worth mentioning that the cooperation between off-white and Nike also adopts the mode of Limited sales, which is promoted by supreme. Through the mode of Limited sales and no production after sold out, it directly creates a difficult situation and attracts brand fans to buy, The wealth effect has successfully attracted more people's attention and entry.

A close inspection shows that the off-white joint brand is basically based on the original commodity design. In fact, this just confirms the design concept of virgin abloh. Because I once put forward the "3% concept": change 3% of classic design into my work. In the tidal circle, it has received mixed reviews.

　　 FOG?

In recent years, the influence of fear of God is so great that it has not only changed the general aesthetic pattern of fashion, but also many boys who love street clothes have become Jerry boy under the influence of Jerry Lorenzo, founder of fear of God.

Jerry founded fear of God in 2013. He has not received any fashion training and is not known in the street clothing industry. How does this brand climb to the top of the high street brand contempt chain?

Jerry, born in California, USA, is different from most designers. He is not a junior college graduate. Although he has two years of working experience in gap and diesel, he did not embark on the road of design. Instead, he moved back to Los Angeles and founded JL nights, becoming a party organizer of La. It sounds like a marketing nightmare to be the founder of a clothing brand inspired by religion. But his party has attracted celebrities from rap and fashion circles. Jerry has also gained a lot of contacts and resources, among which Virgil abloh is the most important person.

According to Jerry, one day he couldn't find the clothes he wanted to wear in his closet, so he came up with the idea of creating his own brand.

After the establishment of fear of God in 2013, he also encountered many brand management problems. Fortunately, Jerry knew some famous big men, so he was able to send his earliest works to some celebrities. Whether he was appreciated by Kanye and invited to join donda or Virgil, it was an indispensable node for the early fear of God.

In 2015, everyone wanted to own fog. However, due to the high price of the products, most of them were limited and sold out quickly. Jerry wanted to make a change. A year later, he announced to cooperate with pascun to release a branch product called f.o.g., which is an affordable version of high-end products. When some big and high-end brands sell on platforms like pacsun, the benefits of the branch line are all rushing to boost sales, However, fog did not do so, deliberately maintaining the purity of blood, so a new word "Jerry boy" was born at that time, which refers to people who want to reproduce Jerry's clothes.

At the end of 2016, fog reached an unprecedented popularity. At that time, he was asked to make stage costumes for Justin Bieber's purpose tour, and JB happened to be a fan of fog, so this was what he wanted, including pilot jackets, ripped jeans and flannel shirts, all of which were deeply integrated with grunge's Retro junk rock.

It's also a major career milestone with Nike fog.

Essentials was born in 2018, which is still more affordable than the main line of fog. The difference lies in the implied meaning of the name. Wardrobe Essentials (including sweatshirts, T-shirts and sweaters with brand names) are comfortable to wear every day. The audience is young people. Today, there are more people wearing essentials than those wearing mainline or Nike co branding.

　　 At the end of 2020, Adidas and fog officials announced a long-term cooperation. It is said that Nike is hesitant in the long-term cooperation relationship, and it is also uncertain about the business Jerry wants to expand. From the beginning, Adidas let Jerry be responsible for the innovation direction and strategy of the whole basketball business, that is to say, the future of Adidas in the basketball field is in the hands of Jerry Lorenzo.

?　　Yeezy?

In 2015, the first pair of yeezy was launched. The yeezy boost jointly created by Kanye and adidas has completely matched the air jordan of Nike, and it took 20 years for AJ to reach its current status. Unlike most musicians who only operate the clothing industry as a sideline, Kanye West's devotion to fashion is nothing less than music. From the initial debt of $53 million to fashion, Kanye is a successful fashion businessman in the world. Kanye, who has won 21 Grammy Awards, has a large group of fans who have never heard of his songs. However, it also proves from the side that yeezy's existence is not just the carnival of Kan Ye fans, but as a fashion brand, yeezy also has a high degree of recognition.

Kanye dropped out of University in 2000 and started as a music producer. He was Jay-Z's helper. At that time, Kanye's dream was to become a real rapper from behind the scenes. After a series of misfortunes, such as being refused to sign by the brand and car accident, Kanye released his first album in 2004, and won the second place in the United States billboard with 441000 first week sales, The album won the Grammy rap album award in February 2005. From then on, his life went on and on.

In 2007, Kanye and bape jointly launched their first pair of shoes. Influenced by the formula of bape's success, Kanye quickly realized that with the growth of hip-hop industry, high-end street fashion brand was the future. Kan, whose soul of art was ignited, rolled up his sleeves and wanted to have a big fight, The original goal was to build a fashion line of his own. Although he was a bright star in music, Kanye was still seriously inadequate in fashion. After losing millions of dollars, he decided to enter the fashion circle from the direction of the shoe market and found a new way. He signed with Nike, As the first non athlete partner of Nike, air yeezy was born after countless proofing and modification in 2008, and LV also threw olive branches to Kanye.

In the autumn of 2009, Kanye, who had made little achievements in design, moved to Rome to work as an intern in Fendi for $500 a month. After a series of operations, people realized that Kanye was not just talking about it. He was serious about entering the fashion circle, and the foundation of yeezy Empire was slowly forming.

In 2012, Kanye, who has been precipitated for two years, has already had a very big voice in the fashion circle. We all agree that he is not only a singer. Among them, the cover of watch the throne was handled by Ricardo tisci, artistic director of Givenchy, and won the Grammy album packaging award of that year. Kanye also used his influence to successfully push Givenchy to the throne. The exaggerated five pointed star and dog head let young people who are still addicted to visvim, bape and evisu all threw themselves into Givenchy's arms overnight, The shoe that changed the trend, the air yeezy 2 was released, but the trace of Air Jordan has completely disappeared.

The launch of air yeezy 2 October in 2014 has pushed the influence of air yeezy to a peak. Two years later, Kanye left Nike, which he had worked with for many years, and turned to Adidas.

Compared with the fact that Nike just regards Kanye and yeezy as an advertisement to boost the popularity of the brand, Adidas's offer for Kanye is too attractive. Kanye can have an independent studio and a separate production line, which not only has more design space, but also has more control over the operation. Adidas lets Kanye set up a guarantee, which will help him achieve the goal of yeezy for all.

In the past, yzey launched a series of dazzled fashion shoes, and then launched a series of dazzled yizeev2 shoes, which were not limited to the number of people in 2016. What yeezy pursues is not topic degree, but national degree.

With such phenomenal influence, where does yeezy's creative inspiration come from? According to Mr. Kan himself, he and his team regard designing sneakers as designing cars. Lamborghini sports cars are important materials for yeezy. Mr. Kan said that every pair of yeezy has a shadow of Lamborghini. His yeezy is the Lamborghini in the sneakers. Yeezy is an era, and the era will never be out of date.

However, today, yeezy also faces the paradox of fashion brand: selling more will kill demand. Secondly, brand value and shoe sales are closely related to Kanye's public image. However, this also makes the question of "how yeezy will unfold in the future and how they can overcome the challenges" becomes more interesting.

?Vetements?

2013 was born in London, UK. The unique appearance of vetements, combined with street models and underground actors, appeared in the under round club and Chinese restaurants, bringing a new vitality to Paris fashion. The works of the brand with full topic always become popular, such as DHL's T-shirt, which represents globalization, The red letter logo on a yellow background has also become a part of popular culture. When the big brand logo is gradually recognized as vulgar and eliminated, as a popular culture, non fashion prominent logo is more and more appearing in the products of high-end fashion brands.

Demna, the founder of the company, brought secular clothes, unconventional advertising activities and the style of his father's generation to Balenciaga and Gucci. For example, he packaged Crocs into $850 luxury goods, launched IKEA inspired bags, and popular dad shoes all over the world. He kept making headlines, such as bringing IKEA's $0.99 plastic bag to the show, Become one of his most remembered moments.

　　KAWS?

When it comes to street art, there are not only fashion brands, but also the cartoon image kaws with X eyes, pods and ears, light bulb head and Mickey Mouse underpants.

However, its correct brand name is actually called original cake. Since the founder is kaws, people habitually call this brand kaws.

Kaws is one of the most expensive dolls in the world. How did it start?

The founder grew up in Jersey City (a town in New York City). Jersey City has a free playground, large pipes under the house and many walls. This provides a "draft paper" for him who started graffiti as a child. Every part of the city has his paintings. He takes a camera to Bronx and takes pictures after graffiti. Then he gives the photos back to each other in two or three phases, "I often go to the club, and my life is full of very interesting people. All this is like prying my body to let me know the world." kaws is the abstract, relevant, short and powerful pronunciation that he wants, both visually and in the sense.

When he was in college, he would take away the billboard at the bus stop in New York, draw it and replace it. Pedestrians would not think much of him, thinking that he was a staff member. He never thought that people in the fashion circle would like these things. He was also afraid of being sued. He would take advantage of different opportunities to do street art in different cities. After graduating from University, I went to Japan to travel. Through friends, I got to know the managers of stash, Futura, Bape, Nigo and Fujiwara (Hiroshi Fujiwara).

In 1998, he couldn't find a job. In 1999, he met the manager of bounty hunter in Tokyo. He was making some small toys, which inspired his heart to be a toy with high recognition. Mickey's hands and feet were in line with kaws's image, but at that time he just saved them instead of selling them. Until 2002, kaws had his own website, It really changed everything. At the beginning, kaws consigned toys to other people's shops. They took three or six toys each time. Kaws didn't know when they sold them out. They had to wait several months to get the money. So kaws opened his own website to let people who want to buy them buy them directly.

In 2006, the unique fashion elements of fainal represented the trend of fashion expansion in kaigal. In terms of fashion, kaws is also co branding fashion design for popular street brands such as Bape, undercover, realMad hetic and clot. In terms of music, kaws also designed CD covers for top stars such as towa Tei's sweet robotsaganst the machine, bape's Cherie and Kanye West.

He started to enter the major exhibitions in 2008. In fact, many fans got to know each other through the cooperation between kaws and Kanye. At that time, Kanye found kaws to help him produce the cover of "808s & heartbreak" album.

Later, he showed his 50 meter work during the Thanksgiving parade in the United States. Before that, kaws showed more in Asia and Tokyo. This opportunity opened up the American market.

Kaws doesn't want fans to spend $200 to buy a t for him. Instead, kaws integrates his works of art into non-traditional places, making his works different from traditional art.

　　A-COLD-WALL?

Street style fashion brand, founded in London in early 2015, was founded by Samuel Ross, a member of donda's creative team of Kanye West, when he was 25.

It is characterized by high-end street style brand, simple and fashionable. Inspired by British working class clothing design, it combines practical attributes with experimental pattern design, which is deeply sought after by British fashion experts. In a short period of time, it includes the reports and support of many authoritative media. The positioning of a-cold-wall * is not just a street fashion brand, but a "cultural review".

　　 The founder of Ross's father is a glass painting expert graduated from Central Saint Martin, and his mother is an oil painter who teaches psychology. Ross believes that his parents made his sculpture into an artist and designer. When I was a child, I didn't have money to buy Nike. Later, I made fake Nike and Adidas and sold them to my friends. I went to court because of felony and fighting. Later, I reformed and worked hard. I graduated from the graphic design department of de Montfort University as first class honors. After graduation, I am now engaged in product design and graphic design, but I am not satisfied with this, He started sending emails to London's brands and celebrities, but they didn't respond. One day, he happened to see Virgil's page, so he sprayed a dirty word and then sent the email. Unexpectedly, virgin quickly replied to him and became Virgili's assistant. Later, he joined the donda team and sat on the same sofa with Kanye and Virgili overnight. After accumulating a lot of experience, he decided to set up his own door and founded ACW. His inspiration came from the cold feeling when he put his hand on the concrete wall. This is about growing up in the city. The core of ACW is a nuance of esoteric art plan to explore the inequality and subtle differences of British class system.

The product uses a lot of gray to create a cold atmosphere, which seems to be a silent protest from the bottom of the society. It uses damage, collage and dirt to reflect the public's impression of the working class. It also uses metallic materials and PVC functional fabrics to enhance the industrial sense. In addition, the use of asymmetric clothing structure implies class system inequality and damage to the system, and the style of brand is also affected by architecture.

　　 Japanese and Korean tide cards

　　 Japanese fashion card

The development of Japanese tide brand

The development history of Japanese tide brand is inseparable from American tide. In 1986, Hiroshi Fujiwara, the godfather of Japanese fashion, interviewed Shawn, the founder of stussy. After returning to Japan, inspired by Fujiwara, together with Kiichiro Nakamura, a graffiti designer, and Toru Iwai, an ordinary young shopkeeper, jointly established the first Japanese Street clothing brand good enough, Fujihara supported another partner, Nigo (Nago) and Takahashi Dun, to open a shop called "nowhere" in Harajuku. After that, Takahashi Dun founded undercover alone, and Nigo also founded a bath ape (bape) with the help of Kiichiro Nakamura. Fujihara Hao's role in the development and growth of Japanese chaopai culture is known as the godfather of Japanese chaopai culture. Many people know that "Uber" is the original meaning of "noubaah" and "where". When Nigo just opened its business, the budget was tight and only 50 pieces of t could be made every week. Unexpectedly, it turned into a cultural phenomenon to queue up to buy trendy brands.

Fujihara Hao used to be a famous DJ. After returning to China from London in 1986, he created a remix album called "old school". It was made by fujihara for hectic alone and one of the first batch of music works after he returned to China. Fujihara not only brought scratch technology into the Japanese DJ community, but also Japanese hip hop, which is said to have developed since Fujiwara brought hip hop to the Japanese music industry in the 1980s.

The roots of all Japanese street wear are Shibuya and Harajuku - the latter more than before And then. Until the 1940s, Japanese streets were still full of people in traditional costumes such as kimonos. During this period, the country was still separated from the rest of the world, and foreign culture had no influence on Japan. When American soldiers began to come, a great deal of Western influence was introduced into Japan, including western style clothing. From magazines and music, the Japanese slowly and firmly accepted Western culture. By the 1970s and 1980s, American music such as hip hop and rock and roll was introduced into Japan The fashion style also followed. All kinds of subcultures came into being - including the visual system. These subcultures originated from the Harajuku community ， Dare to try silhouettes, colors and clothing items.

Japan's representative fashion brand

When talking about the representative fashion brand of Japan, it must be mentioned that a bath ape (bape) was born in 1993. "A bath ape" is also the abbreviation of "a bathing ape in lukewarm water". In Japanese slang, it is often used to describe young people with rich material life and shallow thinking. The original meaning of Nigo's name is to satirize the weak living conditions of young people at that time, but ironically, it is the young people of the previous generation who finally put bape on the altar.

Yamamoto can be said to be the top of the Japanese Street clothing industry. The use of black is almost opposite to the bright and popular image of Harajuku's colorful subculture. The design combines traditional Japanese details with the modern vision that has dominated Japanese streets in recent years. From eye-catching silhouettes and asymmetric designs to hints of crimson details and breaking through experimental boundaries, Yohji Yamamoto's design aesthetics is consistent with the beliefs of Japanese street wear. One of the most successful brands to date has been created by bendi-3.

When Japanese Street clothing became popular in the country, it also pushed the western fashion brand in reverse. As consumers, it is also obvious that well-known Japanese fashion designers have begun to cooperate with each other to plan series inspired by Japanese street clothes and bring them to the international track.

? 　　 Korean tide card

In recent years, many fashion brands have been born in South Korea. We are most familiar with we11done, ader error, ambush, nerdy, adlv, etc.

It is undeniable that today's South Korea has become one of the hottest destinations in the fashion industry, affecting the trends in Asia and abroad. Of course, this popularity does not occur naturally, but is heavily affected by the cultural transformation that the country has experienced.

In the past few years, the origin of street fashion in South Korea has gone a long way. In recent years, South Korea, which has established close ties with the United States, has experienced the influx of western culture. Meanwhile, kpop is widely popular in the world, including movies, music, fashion, etc., paving the way for the success of Korean street style we see today.

　　 Here, let's sort it out

The commonness of chaopai

　　 Brand philosophy : the trend culture born under the background of the times has achieved the bottom spirit of the brand. There is such a cultural soil in the United States, which repackages the (American) culture and the things in the hearts of Americans. These contents are highly controversial and topical, including Street (surfing, skateboarding, graffiti), music (hippie, rock, punk, hiphop, etc.) Sports (NBA, baseball, MLB), social issues, sensitive topics (black, class, religion), stars & Artists' personal IP influence.

　　 Top resources (including fashion brand, music circle resources, sports circle resources, art circle resources, etc.), so as to shape brand influence, and achieve commercial operation through co branding. At the beginning, only let the most fashionable celebrities wear your clothes, and slowly the public will want them and start to imitate celebrities.

　　 Insight into the times and consumers If the designer brand is to express the designer's own fashion concept (immersed in his own world), then the fashion brand is to seize the times and culture and arouse resonance.

　　 Commercial operation : scarcity, joint name, limited, pre-sale, sold out and other marketing means.

　　 Artist & entrepreneur, founder of the compound type of genius

Different from the ordinary consumer goods market

　　 Supply chain As far as fashion is concerned, the designer's ability of fast response to the fashion supply chain is not the ability to quickly predict the fashion supply chain. However, chaopai does not need a strong supply chain, and even some brands are limited in quantity, so it does not need mass production at all. Therefore, chaopai examines the ability of the manager or creative director to create and drive the trend.

　　 channel It's not like we usually look at clothing brands, how to lay online and offline channels, how to play with the traffic of twitter tmall, and chaopai doesn't even open offline stores, It has to be limited and sold out. The more mysterious, the better. For example, supreme has never opened a store in China in its lifetime.

　　 founder There are few or too few entrepreneurs with artistic inspiration and business sensitivity. The founders / principals of these trendy brands not only have business sense, but also are magic figures with great influence in cross-border. But the focus remains unchanged, and it is still the entrepreneurs with artistic talent, not the artists who understand business.

　　 Brand influence and communication Circle resources, how to obtain them. Don't spend money to make the stars wear them, but let them try their best to wear them to you.

Fashion brand is a new luxury

The need of group belonging, self-consciousness awakening and class symbol identification are the three internal motivations for young people to buy trendy cards.

The brand premium of luxury / fashion brand is often not from the practicality of goods, but from the brand symbol, which is used to distinguish and identify their own class.

When consumers buy goods with spiritual attributes, what they buy is yearning for their expected life in essence, while the logo symbol of chaopai represents a new group belonging. In different times, every change of social ideology will give birth to brand-new consumer goods. Consumption represents your ideology. In this sense, fashion brand is a new luxury. It's a little different from the motivation of buying luxury brands in the past, Consumers don't want to be defined as belonging to a certain social class or a popular label, such as "money", "power" and "taste". On this basis, consumers who buy fashion brand want to have more personalized expression. The new generation has a better material foundation and begins to pursue more diversified meaning of life.

Can chaopai go through the brand cycle?

Is chaopai "a small number of success, but also a small number of losers?" The answer is No.

"Fashion", the so-called trend, refers to the trend of fashion in a period of time. As a symbol, some clothing and commodity symbols are consumed by everyone and gradually become popular. There are many factors behind the popularity

The mainstream ideology is the bottom of the society

The middle layer is a period of social emotion

At the top is the conspiracy of social media and fashion circles (that is, businesses)

There are a lot of very popular brand in a certain period of time, after a few years, the scenery is no longer. In terms of the most superficial factors, whether the Chaoren, stars and idols recognized by consumers will continue to consume represents the vitality of the tide brand symbol in a sense, The consumption guidance behind this is actually exaggerated by social emotions. As a brand, it can leverage social emotions for a period of time, but emotions will change. Both floors have space to operate in a short period of time. From the perspective of brand evergreen, it is not emotion but values that make the brand go through the cycle. If a certain value can be accepted in a stable social ideology for a long time, then such a fashion brand will have the possibility of crossing the brand cycle.

Let's go back to the beginning Will China come out of fashion?

The real name of chaopai is streetwear, which also shows that its vitality exists in the streets. In the artistic expression of "not going to the hall of elegance" in the early days of its birth, such as skateboarding, hip-hop and graffiti, it is not in the halls, temples, professional sports grounds and workplaces, but in every street and lane.

Street Culture: there are skateboards, graffiti, La and New York on the streets of the United States; There are Harajuku and Shibuya in the streets of Japan. What's on the streets of China? Chinese subculture is not the mainstream, because there are killing Matt, spirituals, wire pole ads and square dancing grandmothers. We are not derogatory here, these are scenes of childhood streets, is an era, can be shaped. In contemporary China, there are takeout brothers on the streets. Similar to a-cold-wall, the British working class clothing design is the inspiration for the idea, so that consumers can understand the story of the working class behind the industrial design. Can we take the clothing design of blue collar workers and takeout brothers as inspiration?

Topic and brand philosophy: we don't have marketing soil for sensitive topics. Can we refer to the development of Japan's fashion brand, bape = a bathing ape in lukewarm water. In Japan, metaphor is often used to describe young people with rich material life and shallow thinking. The original meaning of this name is to satirize the weak living conditions of young people in Japan at that time (Japan in the 1990s), but ironically, it is the young people of that generation who finally put bape on the altar. La can always play a lot of fashion cards, such as "palm angels cleverly integrates the free and unrestrained sense of La with the exquisite and elegant Italian aesthetics", whether it is possible for "China to skillfully blend the street sense of a small city with the exquisite and elegant Shanghai aesthetics", or the slovenly style, dressed like a ragged feeling just beaten by street thugs.

　　 Difficulties: Whether it is a new brand in China, whether it is a new brand or not, is always a headache. However, "limited" is a necessary marketing means of chaopai. Plagiarism greatly reduces the power of limited amount. International luxury brands can be restrained from the platform side and protected by law because of their wider consumer groups and greater discourse power. However, there are many trendy brands, scattered purchasing channels, and the groups covered by a single brand are more subdivided. It will cost more to solve the problem of plagiarism. At present, it seems that it is difficult to solve it in the short term.

Whether the public can accommodate the possibility of discussion diversity is still unknown. If these seeds can take root in the soil, then the tide card can grow on this soil.

　　 extension

Construction and diffusion of symbolic meaning

The construction of the meaning of chaopai symbol needs internal rationality and external communication. Internally, names and images themselves should be able to extract the corresponding meaning elements, such as super (the highest, the largest, the supreme), off white (gray between black and white), essential (essential, fundamental). The images of streets, music and sports reflect the struggle against the mainstream, the esteem of self and endless challenges. Externally, the meanings extracted from names and images need to be continuously used through symbolic communication, so that the corresponding relationship is constantly strengthened, the meaning is constantly accumulated, and finally enters the language system of specific groups.

When the symbolic value, especially its meaning, enters the language system of a specific group, it has the opportunity to form a greater diffusion. In the specific social and cultural environment, the spread of symbolic value, both from top to bottom, and from bottom to top.

From top to bottom: the lifestyle, value pursuit and aesthetic ideas advocated by the elite will become the yearning of other strata. The commodities and symbols they consume naturally become the symbol of their identity, status and taste. Others will "pretend" and express their desire by following.

Bottom up: the non mainstream class has no right to speak at the beginning, and they have no competitive advantage in the rising channel of mainstream society. With the development of society and the change of voice channels, they can express different voices through specific symbols, and most of these voices will lead to differences with the mainstream discourse system. Those at the top of the pyramid will show great disdain and even ridicule. But the middle class, which accounts for a large proportion of the social structure, will waver because of these differences, and their hearts will resonate with the meaning behind these symbols.

Art and business

Art is the most powerful symbol created by human beings. It is a thing that has no use value. Therefore, most of the artistic value should be absorbed from the artistic symbols. The founding team, name and image of chaopai should have strong artistry.

But art is "priceless" and does not pursue commercial success. The establishment and management of chaopai need to pursue commercial success and sustainable development. Therefore, in addition to a strong ability to construct the value of symbols, it is also necessary to take the ability of communication of symbols as an important criterion for the founder / manager of chaopai. It needs artistry, but more importantly, commercial ability.

In a narrow sense, as the business scale of chaopai becomes larger and more consumers, it will lead to the dilution of symbolic meaning, the weakening of self and group identity, and the reduction of its symbolic value. However, if the pattern is opened, as long as the close connection of name, image and meaning is maintained, the symbolic value of single materialized commodity will decrease, but it can create greater overall symbolic value in the process of diffusion. This is the difference between the values of entrepreneurs and artists.

From the beginning, the great chaopai should create a large overall symbolic value, so it has a certain universality. Therefore, in the early stage of development, the scarcity created by pre-sale, limited amount and mystery should only be a means and tool to make the "symbolic story" of names, images and meanings clear and thorough, and firmly engrave in the minds of the group.

It can be imagined that the growth history of the greatest "chaopai" should be accompanied by a history of social and cultural change.