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What Are The Basic Control Lines Of Leather Shoes And Their Functions?

2008/8/12 10:53:00 41801

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No matter whether the stereoscopic design is on the last body of the shoe last, or on the flat surface of the shoe last, it must be based on the rule of the foot type. According to the versatility of the leather shoe design, some representative signs and edge points are selected and connected in a straight line to form the basic framework of the leather shoes sample, which is the basic control line for the leather shoe design.

Its main function is to serve as a ruler for the design of the sample, controlling the basic contour of the upper shoe pattern and obtaining a good visual effect.

一低腰皮鞋基本控制線

(1) the front control line F0E1

The position of the front control line F0E1 on the shoe last display plane is shown in Figure 2-49.

The upper end point is located at the F0 of the front convex marking point, and the lower end point is located at the E1 point outside the fifth metatarsophalangeal.

The role of the front control line F0E1 is:

(1) the front control line F0E1 divides the last surface of shoe last and shoe last, and the upper part of leather shoes is divided into the front and rear two parts, so the front control line F0E1 is the front and rear boundary of the last body, the flat surface and the upper.

(2) the front control line F0E1 is the center point of the curve handle, which is called the "Qu Qiao center".

In the plane design method, the basic law of the flat surface reduction and the treatment method of the curved stilts are obtained.

(3) the neutral point of the front control line F0E1 is the origin of the Qy of the gate position.

Usually, the location of Qy at the entrance of the low waist leather upper is changed near the QQ point, that is, the Qy point of the entrance door varies within the circumference of the center with a Q. dot radius of 6.

(4) the F0 point on the front control line F0E1 is the change origin of Fx.

Usually the location of the low waist shoe door length Fx is within 12~15 to 12~15 points from the F0 point before the F0 point.

(5) the neutral point of the front control line F0E1 is the origin of the change of gate width Qy.

Usually the location of the width of the low waist shoe door is Qy, within the range of 2~4 to 4~6 points below the q.

(two) waist side control line CxC1

The position of the waist control line CxC1 on the shoe last display plane is shown in Figure 2-49.

The upper point Cx is located between the D0 of the tarsal bone mark and the C0 of the lumbar socket mark, from the tarsal mark point D0 to the back D0C0, and the lower end point is located outside the waist socket along the point C1.

The role of the waist control line CxC1 is:

(1) the position of the waist control line CxC1 is located at the location of the waist shoe component of the shoe ears, shoe tongue and shoe tie belt of low waist shoes.

Therefore, its main function is to ensure the wearing effect of the upper design, so that the human body does not bend the foot and neck when crouching, because the Cx point is the origin of the low waist leather shoes and shoe face length (also known as the front length).

In general, low waist shoes and shoes face length J1Cx or before Cx point, or at the Cx point, and will not exceed the Cx point, otherwise the shoes will have the feeling of bending when wearing the shoes.

Common low waist shoes and shoes face length J1Cx design rule: male three section of the head inner ear leather shoes, its shoe face length J1Cx at Cx point; male ear type shoes, its shoe face length J1Cx in the range of Cx to Cx before the range; male cross tongue type and male whole tongue type leather shoes, its shoe face length J1Cx before Cx point 5 to 10 limits.

For women's inner ear leather shoes, the shoe's face length J1Cx is within the range of 5 Cx before the Cx point to Cx, and the length of the female outer ear leather shoes is within the range of 5 to 10 Cx before the Cx point, and the length of the female tongue leather shoes is 10 to 15 square meters before the Cx point.

We need to pay attention to women's shallow leather shoes, because there are no middle parts (shoes ears, tongue and so on), so its shoe face length J1Cx is its mouth door length J1Fx.

(2) control the position of the height Cn point of the two sides of the waist.

In general, the location of Cn points is above C1, accounting for about C1Cx.

The height of the two wings of the low waist leather shoes is of the following types: the height of the two wings (or the width of the shoe ears) under the inner ear type and the outer ear type shoes shoes, the height of the two wings (or the width of the shoe ears); the height of the middle part of the horizontal bar tongue type, the whole tongue type, and the female shallow leather shoes; the position of the rubber band rubber band (or the width of the tongue of shoes), etc.

That is to say, the design of the above two leather shoes is based on Cn points.

Generally speaking, the height of the two wings of the low waist leather shoes should be at Cn or Cn points.

(three) high ankle control line B0B1

The position of the high control line B0B1 of the external malleolus on the last surface of the shoe last is shown in Figure 2-49.

The upper end is located at the B0 point of the lateral malleolus bone, and the lower point is located at the B1 point of the lateral ankle bone.

The main function of the external ankle support high control line B0B1 is to control the upper shoe height B1Bx of the low waist leather shoes at the lateral malleolus part.

In particular, low waist leather shoes equipped with hard main heels must be designed strictly according to the rule of the foot type of the external ankle bone height, otherwise it will affect the wearing effect of shoes.

In addition, in the quality inspection of leather shoes, the B1Bx is also one of the important assessment criteria.

Usually, the design rule of low waist leather shoes with high lateral B1Bx is that the height of B1Bx is not higher than that of the lower edge of the ankle.

That is: B1Bx= foot length * 20.14%+n

In the formula, 20.14% is the foot type rule along the point height of the lateral malleolus.

It should be noted that with the change of the upper style, the B1Bx of the lateral malleolus needs a constant n adjustment. In general, the constant n takes + 3.

According to the data, the male 25# leather shoes have a high B1Bx of external ankle support: 250 x 20.14% + 3=50 + 3=47 ~ 53; and the female 23# shoe outer ankle support B1Bx is 230 x 20.14% + 3=46 + (3=43 ~ 49).

These design rules and their data are applicable to both stereoscopic design and graphic design.

(four) A0A1 high control line for back seam.

The position of the upper seam high control line A0A1 on the shoe last exhibition plane is shown in Figure 2-49.

The upper end point is located at the A0 of the rear end mark of the opening, and the lower end point is located at the rear end point A1 of the last bottom.

The main function of the high control line A0A1 of the back seam is to control the seam height A1Ax of the lower waist leather shoes.

According to the rule of the foot type, the height of the heel bone on the heel is about 21.66% of the length of the foot. If the male 25# low waist leather shoes are taken as an example, the upper end of the posterior calcaneal height is 250 x 21.66%=54.15.

According to the actual sensory limit test, it is found that the height of the middle seam A1Ax after the low waist leather shoes should be more than 10 higher than the upper end of the calcaneus, so as to ensure that the shoes can reach the goal of brisk and feet in the process of wearing.

Therefore, the height of the middle seam should be calculated according to the following formula after the low waist leather shoes A1Ax.

That is: A1Ax= foot length * 21.66%+n

In the formula, 21.66% is the foot type rule of the upper end of the calcaneus.

The constant n can be arbitrarily selected in the range of 10~12.

From the data, male 25# low waist leather shoes help the seam height A1Ax: 250 x 21.66%+ (10~12) =54.15+ (10~12) =64 to 66; female 23# low waist leather shoes help seam height A1Ax: 230 x 21.66%+ (10~12) =49.818+ (10~12) =59 ~ 61 61.

These design rules and their data are applicable to both stereoscopic design and graphic design.

Fig. 2-49 the basic control line of the exhibition plane

(five) lumbar ankle control line CxB1

The position of the waist ankle control line CxB1 on the shoe last display plane is shown in Figure 2-49.

Its upper point Cx is located between the tarsal bone mark point D0 and the waist mark point C0, from the tarsal mark point D0 back, the lower point is located at the edge of the lateral ankle bone point B1.

The role of the lumbar ankle control line CxB1 is:

(1) control the upper back line of the deeper upper.

If the inner ear type, outer ear type, rubber band type and belt type style are used for the shape of the upper line, the arc between 40~45 points and Cx points is about Bx.

(2) control the contour shape of the shoe parts, shoe ears and other parts of the waist parts.

Such as inner ear type, outer ear type, rubber band style shoes ears and tongue parts.

(3) control the location and direction of low shoe leather.

In general, the location of the tripping belt can be located between the D0 point and the Cx point before the Cx point, and the direction of the trip must be in the direction of CxB1.

For example, the pattern of strap shoes or sandals, belt shoes, and sandals with front tripping should be designed according to these rules.

(six) back up control line AxBx

The position of the back line control line AxBx on the shoe last display plane is shown in Figure 2-49.

Its front point is located at the high point Bx of the external malleolus, and the rear end point is located at the Ax height of the back seam.

The function of the back line control line AxBx is:

(1) control the total length of the upper.

The total length of the upper is usually expressed in J1Ay, which refers to the length of J1Ay intercepted on the J1Ax line.

The control law of J1Ay is related to the change of the upper style, and the main factor is the mouth.