Classification And Identification Of Fabric Weave
Fabric organization: the textile is made up of two vertical yarns on the loom, which are interwoven according to certain rules, that is, the warp and weft threads sink and flow according to certain rules, forming a certain texture and pattern on the surface of the fabric. This kind of organization is called fabric organization.
1. Fabric classification:
The original organization is the simplest fabric organization, also known as the basic organization.
It includes three types of plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.
Small pattern organization is formed by the combination of the above three basic organizations.
Such as mountain twill and sharp twill.
(3) complex tissues: Double tissues (woven into thick flannelette, velvet blanket, etc.), fuzzing tissue (such as corduroy), towel tissue (towel fabric), double layer tissue (towel fabric) and leno tissue.
(4) big pattern organization: also known as the long flower tissue, weaving more beautiful patterns such as flowers, birds, fish insects, birds and beasts.
Satin weave: cloth surface is smooth but not strong, easy to scratch, easy to fluff.
2. Density of fabric: density refers to the number of warp and weft roots in the unit length of the finished product, and the number of yarns used in 10 square centimeters or 1 square inches is commonly used.
Bedding fabrics common density: 30S yarn 78*65, 78*54, 20S yarn 60*60, 40S yarn 90*90, 110*80, 133*72, 28S yarn 70*60, unit: root inch.
3, fabric moisture regain, the fixed weight.
1. Moisture regain = (wet weight dry weight) / dry weight * 100%
Regular moisture regain: cotton yarn 8.5%, cotton 8%, polyester cotton yarn 65/35 cloth 3.06%, polyester.
Cotton 50/50, cloth 4.2%
2. The weight of the fabric is that the weight of the fabric under the constant moisture regain is fixed weight.
Textiles classification:
1, according to the purpose, it can be divided into three categories: clothing textiles, decorative textiles and industrial products.
1. Clothing textiles include all kinds of textile fabrics for making garments, sewing thread, elastic band, lining, lining and other textile accessories and knitted garments, gloves, socks and so on.
Decorative textiles have more outstanding characteristics than other textiles in variety, texture, pattern and color matching. They can also be considered as a kind of Arts and crafts.
It can be divided into indoor articles, bedding and outdoor articles, such as carpets, sofa covers, chairs, tapestries, stickers, elephant covers, textile products, curtains, towels, tea towels, tablecloths, handkerchiefs, etc. bedding includes bedspreads, bedspreads, quilts, quilts, blankets, towel quilts, pillow cores, quilts, pillowcases, etc.
Outdoor products include artificial lawn and so on.
(3) industrial textiles are widely used and have many varieties. Pongab, gun clothing, filter cloth, screen mesh, Lukib and so on are common.
2, according to the mode of production, it can be divided into six categories: line type, belt type, rope type, woven fabric, textile cloth and so on.
Line type: textile fibers are spun into yarn, and two or more yarns are twisted into synthetic threads.
Belt type: narrow or tubular fabric, called belt type.
Rope: multiple strands are twisted together to form a rope.
(4) woven fabric: woven fabric woven by longitude and weft is called woven fabric.
Knitted fabric: knitted fabric made of yarn and interwoven fabric;
Non-woven fabrics: thin textile, which is formed by fiber mesh processing without traditional textile technology, is called nonwoven fabric.
Three. Warp or weft of fabric
All kinds of fabrics have length and width, and the length parallel to the selvage is called the length. The direction of the length is the radial direction of the fabric. The length perpendicular to the selvage is called the width, and the direction of the width is the weft direction of the fabric.
When weaving, radial yarns are used as warp yarns, and weft yarns are used as weft yarns.
Four. Shrinkage of fabric
1. Shrinkage of fabrics
The shrinkage of fabrics refers to the percentage of shrinkage of fabrics after washing or soaking.
Generally speaking, the largest shrinkage rate is the synthetic fabric and its blended fabric, followed by wool and linen fabrics. The cotton fabric is in the middle, and the shrinkage is larger, and the largest is viscose fiber, artificial cotton and artificial wool fabrics.
2. Factors that cause shrinkage of fabrics:
(1) the raw materials of fabrics are different, and the shrinkage rate is different.
Generally speaking, the fiber with high moisture absorption will expand after immersion, increase the diameter, shorten the length and increase the shrinkage rate.
For example, the water absorption rate of viscose fiber is as high as 13%, while the moisture absorption of synthetic fabric is poor, and its shrinkage rate is small.
2. The density of fabric is different, and the shrinkage rate is different.
If the warp and weft density is similar, the longitude and latitude shrinkage ratio is also close.
The fabric with large density will shrink by shrinking. Conversely, the weft density will be larger if the weft density is higher than that of the warp knit fabric.
3. The thickness of fabric is different, and the shrinkage rate is different.
The shrinkage of gauze cloth is large, and the shrinkage of gauze is small.
4. The shrinkage rate of fabric is different.
Generally speaking, during the weaving and dyeing and finishing process, the fibers need to be stretched many times, and the processing time is long. The shrinkage rate of the fabric with larger tension is larger, otherwise it is smaller.
Five, how to identify fabrics:
Fabric handle is an important part of people's identification of fabric's quality and quality.
Concretely speaking, the psychological reaction of touching the fabric with hands is different due to the different varieties of fabrics, and the quality of the fabrics varies greatly.
The following aspects:
1. Are the bones of the fabric straight and relaxed?
(2) fabric surface is smooth and rough.
The softness and hardness of the fabric;
(4) thin and thick fabric;
Cold and warm fabrics;
Fabric feels irritating and less irritating to the skin.
For example, the hand feels the cool feeling of silk fabrics; the pure wool fabric has a warm feeling; the handle is thin and smooth, and the cotton fabrics are mostly made of high count yarns, and the coarse ones are mostly low count yarn fabrics.
In addition, people can borrow the action of assisting, stretching with hand, grasping grain and other movements, and then through the observation of the eye and the feeling of the hand, we can judge the elasticity, strength, wrinkle resistance and fiber type of the fabric.
But in general, hand feeling is the most important way to buy Fabrics and clothing.
Six, cotton woven fabrics
1. Definition: pure cotton woven fabric is made of cotton as raw material and woven by warp and weft yarn.
2. Cotton fabric is divided into:
(1) natural white cloth: plain cloth, fine cloth, coarse cloth, canvas, twill gray cloth, primary color cloth.
Colour cloth: there are vulcanized blue cloth, vulcanized ink cloth, shiilin blue cloth, Shilin grey cloth, color poplin, all kinds of khaji, different colors.
3. Cloth: a variety of colors and patterns on printing and dyeing.
For example, plain printed cloth, Printed Twill, printed Serge and printed tribute.
(4) yarn dyed fabric: it is a fabric that is dyed by yarn or thread first and then woven on the machine, such as cloth, sheet cloth, flannelette, thread, decorative cloth, etc.
3, the characteristics of pure cotton fabric:
1. Hygroscopicity: cotton fiber has good hygroscopicity. Under normal conditions, fiber can absorb moisture into the surrounding atmosphere. Its moisture content is 8-10%, so it touches human skin and makes people feel soft and not rigid.
If the humidity of the cotton cloth is increased and the ambient temperature is higher, the water content in the fiber will evaporate completely, so that the fabric can maintain the water balance state and make people feel comfortable.
Moisturizing property: because cotton fiber is a poor conductor of heat and electricity, its thermal conductivity is very low, and because of its porous nature and high elasticity, it can store a lot of air between the fibers, and the air is also a poor conductor of heat and electricity. Therefore, pure cotton fiber textile has good moisture retention, and it feels warm in pure cotton fabric clothing.
Heat resistance: pure cotton fabric has good heat resistance, and it will only cause moisture evaporation on the fabric at less than 110 degrees Celsius. It will not damage the fiber. So pure cotton fabric can be used at normal temperature, washing, printing and dyeing.
Alkali resistance: cotton fiber has greater resistance to alkali, and cotton fibers do not damage in alkali solution. This property is beneficial to washing and disinfection after taking the medicine, and can also dye, print and process all cotton textiles, so as to produce more new cotton varieties.
Hygiene: cotton fiber is a natural fiber, its main components are cellulose, and a small amount of waxy substances and nitrogenous substances and pectin.
The cotton fabric has been tested and tested in many ways. There is no stimulation and no negative effect on the contact between the fabric and the skin. Long wearing is beneficial to the human body and has good hygienic performance.
Seven, man-made fiber fabric (chemical fiber)
1. Definition: chemical fiber is the general name of textile fibers obtained by chemical processing through natural polymer materials or synthetic polymer materials.
2, classification (by raw materials and production methods):
(1) artificial fiber: the largest variety of chemical fiber, which is made from natural polymers such as cellulose or protein, such as wood, bagasse, reed, soybean and cheese, is chemically and mechanically processed.
For example: artificial cotton, rayon, artificial wool, tiger kapok, Fu Qiang cotton.
Synthetic fiber: synthetic fiber is a large class of chemical fibers. It is a byproduct of the petrochemical industry and coking industry.
For example, polyester, nylon, tin, vinylon, polypropylene and polyvinyl chloride belong to synthetic fibers.
Eight, blended fabric: blended chemical fiber fabric is chemical fiber and other cotton wool, silk, hemp and so on until the natural fiber blended spinning of textile products.
For example: polyester cotton cloth, polyester wool, and so on.
Nine, fabric washing, ironing, collection, storage points:
1, the key parts of clothing should pay attention to the type, such as shoulder, collar, cuffs and so on, especially the hard collars made of resin.
2, with the typical style of the fabric, we should pay attention to the protection of its unique outer shape, such as lantern velvet, velvet and so on.
When twisting, it is necessary to flush the bread in the air and flush it off when it is dry, so as to avoid the deformation of the suede.
For jacquard fabrics, no hard brush can be used to wash and prevent yarn breaking.
3, cotton fabric has good physical and chemical properties, but it is also not suitable for soaking in the washing liquid for too long. The exposure time should not be too long to prevent the color from being damaged.
4, cotton fabric easy to float off color, washing to prevent string dyeing and color, affect the fabric appearance.
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