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    Pre Preparation For Foundation Design Of Full Shoes -- Panel Preparation

    2010/6/3 10:15:00 427

    Triangle Approximating Primitive Template


    The half panel is a template for the design of the sample structure, also known as the design template, is obtained through the processing of the original template.



    There is a semi panel which is designed by the "triangle approximation method", which is very suitable for computer operation. It is very difficult to operate manually.

    At present, the general method is to use the glue strip paper to paste the last, instead of the previous copy paper, kraft paper, artificial leather and so on.


      
      

    (1) preparation of the original template.


    It is more clean and convenient to stick the last piece of paper.

    The last sticking method is an empirical method. Although the methods of sticking the last ones are different, the purpose is to copy the curved surface of half face last.

    Under normal circumstances, it is required to duplicate the half panel on the outside side, and the half panel on the side is completed by comparison between the inside and outside.

    Only when special needs are needed do we need to duplicate the half panels.


    The preparation process of the original template is as follows:


        
     

    One

    Preparation materials


    We need to prepare materials and tools such as pattern paper, pattern paper, scissors, ruler, tape ruler, pencil and so on.


    It is necessary to have a shoe last with good center line and marked design points.

    If there is no design point on the shoe last, it will not be able to continue the work behind it, because the error is very large on the half panel.


        
      

    Two

    Step last step


    In this paper, we use "foot type, last type and bottom part" - the operation method of "training seven" in the book.


       

    (1) put a piece of beautiful paper on the side of the middle of the back line. The edge of the paper should be in the middle of the back line. The aim is to identify the middle line, and the other side needs to make some cuts to tie it up.

    Using the same method, a beautiful paper will be pasted along the middle line of the rear arc to identify the middle line of the rear arc.


       

    (2) since the beginning of the system, the pverse stickers have been pressed from top to bottom, and the overlap is about half.

    If the adhesive strip is too thin, it will deform easily.

    Until it is full and flat.

    Notice that both ends of the adhesive strip should not exceed the middle line of the back line and the rear arc.


       

    (3) the adhesive tape is then repeated on the back midline and rear arc midline respectively.

    In order to prevent deformation of the bottom port, a rubber strip is also placed along the periphery of the bottom port.


        

    (4) finally draw the edge line of the last bottom and the edge with a pencil, and pfer all the design points to the last paper.


        

    Three

    Last surface flattening


    There is little difference in the way of sticking last, but the key is to flatten the last surface.

    Because different masters have their own leveling methods, the way to handle them is different.

    In order to make the exhibition plane more close to the last surface, the following flattening method is adopted.


        

    (1) uncover the paper edge of Peijia last paper, and gradually uncover the last paper from the beginning.

    Be careful not to tear, do not cause deformation.

    We can see that the last paper is a shell like surface, which is the surface of the last.

    Flattening is to pform the last surface into a "similar size" shape.


       

    (2) scissors should be used to flatten the surface of the last surface. It must be cut off, that is to say, the two parts of the handle and the natural stilt.


    In the two positions of the front and rear heels of the original template, the last surface is a raised semicircle, and the blade at the cutting edge is perpendicular to the bottom of the original template and reaches the bulge position.

    Generally, 2~3 cuts can solve the problem.

    These scissors are craft seesaw.


    In the middle position of the original template, the last surface is warped and must be cut to flatten.

    Connect the VH line, find 0 points, and use the up and down method when making the cut.

    Cut the line 8, cut it to O point, then cut the HO line, cut to 2 to 3mm from O point, do not cut.


       

    (3) paste the back of the body to show the last surface and start from the back.


    First, the OQ line is leveled to ensure the accuracy of the shoe.

    If there is a wrinkle on the OQ line, it will not only be inaccurate in length, but will also affect the seesaw.


    Then paste the rear arc middle line to ensure that the rear side is highly accurate.

    Be careful not to play scissors on the rear arc.

    Then the bottom of the back can also be pasted flat, if the wrinkles should be evenly dispersed.


    Then paste the back line back.

    First, stick to the middle position of the VE segment, then put the middle sides flat to ensure the length of the back midline.

    If the stilt of the last is larger, the front of the back midline will have wrinkles and the position of the V point will decrease, so that it can be corrected in the later stage.


    Finally, there is a wrinkle at the mouth of the plain, which is not related to the upper part.


           

    (4) first turn out of the natural stilts before turning out of the natural stilts.

    First alignment of the front line OH and the OH line of the back is leveled, and a slight segment at the bottom is uneven.

    Then from the half of OH, it begins to rotate in accordance with the arc, and then pushes the upper end of the shear. The overlap angle will appear naturally in the VO line position of the front and back, which is the natural stilt.


    In order to facilitate memory, the V point of the post Gang is still called V point, indicating that the point has not changed; the Y point of the front Gang is changed to V'point, indicating that the change has taken place.

    The V point and the V'point were originally a point on the last surface. They only turned into two points when they were cut normally.

    That is to say, in plane state, there are two points of V and V'at the same time. Once these two points are combined to form a point, the plane is pformed into a surface.

    When the parts are mounted, the conversion is done.


    It should be noted that this natural stilt is objective. If you lose the natural stilts during the exhibition, the template will not be accurate and will not cause the last. Therefore, it is necessary to revise it and change it until the lost stilts are recovered.


       

    (5) paste the front body out of the natural stilts, and then flattening the front.

    First paste the front line back to the center line, then paste the flat bottom.

    If there are wrinkles, disperse evenly.


       

    (6) cut out the original template and mark the natural stilts and connect the control line before cutting the template.


    First check the location of the V point.

    If the position of V drops, it is necessary to use a compasses with 0 points as the center of the circle and the front OV''s length as the radius to draw the arc, then extend the OV line of the back line and intersect with the arc.


    V point location.


    A straight line connecting the VH line is the front control line.

    On the last surface, the VH line was originally straight, and the last blue surface was distorted after leveling.

    Pay attention to H points after picking up points.


    At the same time, the EF line is directly connected to the middle control line, the EP line is the back control line, and the OQ line is the back height control line, as shown in figure 1-1-8.



     Pre preparation for foundation design of full shoes -- panel preparation


    As shown in the figure, the original template is obtained after sticking the last, and there are natural stilts and technological stilts on the template.

    The original template is affixed to the pattern paper, and after being marked, the original template can be obtained.

    The "three no" templates without points, wireless and non stilts are of no use value.


        
      

    {page_break}


      

    (two) inspection of the original template.


    Is the original template accurate?

    It needs to be tested by set.


        
       

    One

    The making of samples.


    The so-called "nesting" refers to the shoe pattern made of paper.


    It is required that two identical pieces of the original template be copied from kraft paper, and then the adhesive tape is used to align the back midline and the rear arc middle line, so that the original pattern can be obtained.


    It is better to use paper to make a sample than to make it with leather. Not only can we save materials, but also more importantly, the paper has no extensibility.

    The purpose of nesting is to find problems, make modifications, and not careless.

    In the future style design, we should first use the kraft paper to do the sample inspection. If the trial is made accurately, the production will be accurate.

    If you use leather to try and help, leather can be extended, it will cover up the problem, and wait for mass production will expose the problem.


        
       

    Two

    Testing methods for nesting


    The method of inspection is to set the sample on the old shoe last to observe.


    For the first time: after setting the last set, alignment the rear arc middle line to observe whether the mouth of the mouth, the heel of the two waist, the front palm and so on.

    If the template is made accurately, only the last part of the forehand can be found, but the rest can be bent.

    Why can't the front part of the forefoot last?

    It is because there is no use of natural stilts.


    The second test: take down the set of samples and place a scissors mouth on the VO line, then compare it with the last one.

    At this time, it will be found that the whole set can reach the requirement of last requirement, and the small branches should be treated as craft seesaw.


    Through the different effects of the two tests, the function of natural stilts will be clear.

    In the structural design, the way of picking up the handle is mainly to think of a way to add the natural stilts skillfully, not only to achieve the purpose of the last but also to make the outline beautiful.

    Having understood this principle, the question of taking off is also coming to the edge.


    It's solved.


       
        

    Three

    Comparison between inside and outside Huai


    If the set is already bent, it is necessary to compare the inside and outside of the last one. It can be divided into two parts: the comparison of the two sides and the width comparison.


        

    (1) is it the same size as the natural angle in the outer space?

    The samples were taken together and then placed on the outer side and side side respectively.

    When aligning the back midline of the front and back and putting the pattern on the last, there will be an open natural angle.

    Generally speaking, the degree of external anxiety is greater than that of Li Huai.


    When you use natural stilts, you usually take the middle step, which is the seesaw angle that you saw just now.


    The method of calculating the eclectic seesaw is very simple.

    But the measurement is rather troublesome.

    According to experience, we can take about 80% of the external seesaw as a trade-off.


    Note: Sigma is about 80% x x.


        
     

    (2) there is a difference in width between the inside and outside of the last surface, and the comparison method is still observed by using the set.


    Put the set on the shoe last, adjust the front middle line, first observe the outer side.

    Because the sleeves are made according to the outer half panels, the width of the outer side should be the same as the width of the last surface.

    If the error is large, the sample is not allowed.


    Then observe the bottom side of the Huai side.


    In front of the palm, there will be more phenomena in the template, which means that the last surface is narrow.

    Note the number and location of the difference as the basis for distinguishing between the inside and outside.

    It usually ranges from 2 to 3mm.


    In the middle of the waist, there will be a deficit in the model, which indicates that the area is wide.

    The same number of locations and locations should be noted as the basis for distinguishing between the inside and outside.

    The amount of excess inside the waist will vary with the height of the heel.

    There are 2 ~ 4mm, 5 ~ 7mm, 8 ~ lOmm grades, and can not be generalized.


    At the heel part of the ankles, the pattern is basically the same as the bottom.


    The three phenomenon mentioned above is the general rule of last surface. If there is a special or abnormal phenomenon, it is based on the actual difference.


    There is a design method called split Huai design. Li Huai also uses the last to make half panels, and then designs the outer parts and the interior parts separately inside and outside the half panels.

    This method is more precise, but the operation is too complicated.

    Under normal circumstances, we use the outer half panel design, or the compromise design method, and then according to the difference between the inside and outside, and then design the inner contour.

    Only half of the panels are used in special cases.


        
      

    {page_break}


    (three) processing of the original template.


    Although the template for making the sample is able to last, it is still the original template and needs to be processed to produce half panels.

    There are differences between the half panels, the half panels of sandals, and the half panels of boots shoes, which will be introduced in different chapters.

    The following raw template processing method is part of the full shoe category, which is not applicable to other footwear, as shown in figure 1-1-9.


     Pre preparation for foundation design of full shoes -- panel preparation

    The steps are as follows:


    (1) draw the outline of the original template on the cardboard and pfer the design point.


       

    (2) connect four basic control lines, and use the compasses to draw the arc to find the angle of picking up, so that the VOV= can be obtained.

    If you do not use the compass to find the corner, the position of the V'will be misplaced, which will affect the effect of the last.


       

    (3) the front bottom processing first measures the total length of the cutting edge of the front bottom port, then corrects the amount of 80%, so that the front contour line starts to bend down from the J point.

    This kind of treatment has little to do with prime shoe, but it plays an important role in the back cover shoes.


        

    (4) the back midline of the back midline is kept unchanged, and the V points and E points of the back midline are connected into a straight line.

    Because in the design of shoes ears, tongue and other components, the back midline should be straight, at this time, the one-time processing will save the future repeated operation.


       

    (5) the rear arc is processed at the QQ position of the shoe, and the Imm is closed to tighten the shoe.

    When the shoe is stretched, the shoe is stretched, so that the deformation of the shoe can be prevented.


    Add Imm to the D point of the heel and increase the capacity of the main heel.


    At the B point of the heel, first calculate the length of the heel cut, take 80% of the amount to correct it, find the [B] point position, then add the main heel capacity of 2mm.


    Finally, the three points can be connected into a smooth curve, and the curve should be curved to imitate the last arc curve of shoe last.

    Because it is artificially trimmed, it requires a graceful curve, which is the rear arc contour of the upper panel.

    Note that the most prominent point of the curve is at D point, not to the middle point.


    When dealing with three points of Q, D and B, the variables of B point are the largest.

    The B point position is longer, the wrinkle of the bottom rib will increase, and the B point position will be shortened, which will affect the shoe mouth without sticking to the last.


    There is some kind of containment relationship between B points and Q. the length of them is relative, sometimes the shoe does not stick to the last one. Instead of QQ, the B point is needed to be modified.


    Cut the processed original template and become the design template of full shoe, that is half panel.


        
      

    {page_break}


    (four) application of half panels


    The design of the structure can not be separated from the half panel. Under the condition that the shoe last remains unchanged, the half panel can be reused many times, eliminating the need for many times.

    There is a prerequisite for the use of half panels, which is to use half panels that are qualified by set inspection.


    Every time you use half panels, draw a half panel outline on the drawing first, then pfer the design point, connect the control line, and mark the VOV'.


    VOV is a half faced natural stilt. Due to the different styles and structure of shoes, the position of picking up will change.

    The process of handling the stilts in natural stilts and its vicinity is called positioning and picking. The process of handling the seesaw in the relative position of the natural stilts is called counterpoint picking. If the back midline of the front and back is converted to a straight line, the process of taking off is called conversion.

    It is the three basic way to pick up and take off, take the place and take the switch.

    In the later chapters, we will introduce the design of double line pick up shoes and the double conversion of design shoes.

    As for the handling of technological sedan, it will be introduced together with related parts at any time.


    With the above preparations, we can carry out the structural design of the sample.



    Source: world clothing shoes and hats net

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