Design Points For Women'S Shallow Shoes
1. commonly used design points
The commonly used design points for women's shallow shoes include: shallow door control points V, fifth metatarsophalangeal border points H, back seam height control point Q.
In addition, we will also use the edge point F of the outer lumbar dens, the P edge point of the external ankle bone center, the E of the crotch control point, the J of the crown of the last point, the C along the heel bone, the D of the heel convex point, and the V point.
The method of finding points has been introduced in detail in Chapter one. See table 1-1-1 and table 1-1-2.
2. about shallow gate control point VO
(1) the significance of the Vo point indicates that the location of the door of the shallow shoe is varied, so a reference point is needed.
This point of reference is the intersection point between the circumference of the metatarsal line and the dorsal midline, which is designated as the Vo point.
Because the metatarsal line is the main bending part of the forefoot, a reference point is found in the back line to facilitate the control of the shallow gate.
Broadly speaking, the mouth of sports shoes also belongs to the shallow door, and also refers to the Vo position of the foot's position.
With such a reference point, it does not mean that all the gate positions are designed at V points, but according to the specific requirements of the style before and after adjustment.
Just as the V point is the control point of the full shoe, but not all the shoes are designed with V points to design the openings.
Therefore, the meaning of Vo points is the control point of the door, which is not necessarily the design point of the gate position.
It should be noted that if the entrance of the finished shoe is located at V point, it may cause foot grinding when walking.
If you use the V point to design the mouth door position, because the position of the door will have a forward displacement of 3mm at the time of the bandage, the position of the Vo point will be staggered after the shoe is made.
(2) how to determine the V point because V point is the control point, so the Vo point is determined by measuring the intersection point between the metatarsal line and the midline. This is more scientific and convenient, and accords with the physiological structure characteristics of the foot.
In some experience design, eager to find the location of mouth door, we often use the data of front face length 73, 78, 68mm to measure.
If the traditional standard last is used, these points are very applicable. If the allowance is increased, there will be great errors.
Nowadays, there are few women using traditional standard shoe last.
To determine the location of the door, we must follow a principle: it can be pulled out freely, the feet can be held, and the proportion of the locations is coordinated perfectly.
To grasp this truth, the amount of data is only a reference.
(3) how to use the mouth door of women's shallow shoes and the door of full shoes are not the same thing at the Vo point. The door of the full shoe may extend to Vo point, but the door of women's shallow shoes can't exceed V point.
If you exceed the V point, you need to deal with the full shoe, and you need to handle the positioning, alignment, conversion and so on.
Remember the women's shoes?
We need to deal with it after lifting.
If the door moves forward and moves to Vo point, it will no longer belong to the full shoe, or rise up.
The location of the door is determined, and the length of the front face is also known. The length of the front face is also known as the depth of the door.
According to the length of the front face, women's shallow shoes usually have three types: long front face, middle long face and short front face.
See color L series, although they all belong to women's shallow shoes, but there are still differences.
Color pictures L-8, color L-12, color L-15, they belong to long front face structure, color map L-3, color map L-4, color map L-11, they belong to short front face structure, other color map L-1, color picture L-2, color picture L-4 and so on, most of them belong to medium long face structure.
Because of the difference in the allowance of shoe last, the length of the shoe can not be judged by the length of the front, but the relationship between the shoe door and the first metatarsophalangeal joint. The mouth and the first metatarsophalangeal joint are similar to the middle and long face. The location of the front door belongs to the short front face.
Medium length face shoes, also known as women's shallow shoes, are located at V point, and the front face length is (73 + 2) mm when the standard shoe is used.
Long front face shoes, that is, deep door shoes, with the mouth door at V point, with a standard last design, the front face length is (78 + 2) mm.
This kind of long face shoe is rare, and some big round mouth or big mouth cloth shoes still use the traditional structure.
Note: when the front face is lengthened, the width of the door should be widened properly. The general rule is that the deeper the shoe is, the larger the width of the door is, the lower the shoe wall is, the easier it is to wear it off.
Short front face shoes are popular women's shoes nowadays, and some women's shallow shoes can even reveal their toes.
With standard last design, the front face length is (68 + 2) mm.
Now, the outlet point is often located at the 1/2 position of the toe and the first metatarsophalangeal joint, which is the control point of no toe seam.
Note: when the front face is short, the width of the door should be narrowed and narrowed properly. The general rule is that the lighter the shoe is, the smaller the width of the mouth, the higher the shoe wall, the stronger the ability to hold the feet, the less likely to wear.
3. about the design of the back seam height Q
It has been introduced before that CQ=4 to 5mm when determining the QQ of full shoes.
For women's shallow shoes, apart from considering the ability to hold feet, it is also necessary to consider whether the heel will be raised or not, so there will be some changes in the height of the rear support.
Take No. 230 women's shoes as an example:
Middle and last: take CQ=4 to 5mm, and the design height of the back seam is 54 ~ 55mm.
High heel last: from CQ=0 to 2mm, the design height of the back seam is 50 ~ 52mm.
Middle and last: take CQ= 8 to lOmm, and the design height of the back seam is 58 to 60mm.
Why does the difference of heel height cause a great change in the design of the back?
Looking at table 3-1-1, it will be found that as the heels increase, the last length of the last will gradually shorten, from 237mm to 228. 6mm.
This is because the heel is not simply straight up when it is lifting, but it moves up in an arc. When the shoe last is designed, the change of the foot shape is taken into account, so the last length should be shortened.
For the side parts, the height of the back seam of women's shallow shoes is usually 54 to 55mm based on the design dimensions of the middle and last.
When the heel is raised, the curvature of the rear arc becomes larger, and the rear calcaneus part of the shoe can adapt to the bending change when wearing shoes. After the calcaneus is placed above the body, the skin will become wrinkled at the back bending point of the foot due to the upright body.
The change of back bending point has been described in detail in foot type, last type and bottom part. If the position of QQ does not decrease, it will cause "gnawing foot" problem.
Therefore, when designing high heeled women's shallow shoes, the height of the seam is controlled from 50 to 52mm.
Why should the middle seam be increased after the heel is lowered?
As the heel decreases, the length of the last slope increases and the rear arc becomes erect.
This state has weakened the foot holding ability of women's shallow shoes. If the middle seam of the upper shoe is properly raised, it can play a remedial role.
Therefore, the design of flat women's shallow shoes should be controlled to 58 to 60mm.
These special requirements for women's shallow shoes are not very obvious in full shoes, because the full strength of the shoes is strong and the last type is more fat.
In addition, we need to consider the effect of the length of the front face on the height of the back. The general rule is to deepen the shoe and reduce the height of the seam.
It should be noted that if the heel height is constant, if the front face of the shoe is lengthened, it actually shortens the length of the shoe, which may cause shoes to wear out. Therefore, it is necessary to increase the length of the shoe face without affecting the penetration condition.
Conversely, the shoal will become shallow, and the height of the middle seam should be increased appropriately, but do not break away from the adjustment range of 50 ~ 60mm. See table 3-1-3.
Table 3-1-3 the factors affecting the height of the seam and the range of adjustment: mm
Note: the data of short front face shoes are very special.
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