Clothing Encounter Buyer'S Hidden Rules: Embarrassment Is Actually Ingredient.

A few days ago, the development center of the wolf family was launched in Guangzhou. In the more than 30 R & D team, there were a group of special people who worked with designers to complete the design and development of clothing products. They were called "brand buyers".

"Buyer" as a popular concept in the clothing industry is being mentioned again and again.

In fact, in the design process of Fujian style clothing, there has been a position similar to the buyer's function, but due to the fact that

Brand buyers are "

It has been a long time for Fujian style clothing to adopt the development mode of "design + buyer".

According to industry Professor Shu, most of the Fujian style clothes are good at developing single products such as jackets, shirts, casual pants, and because they can not invest a lot of energy and financial resources in R & D design on all products, so the Min style clothing is using the "design + buyer" development mode for those products that are not good at it.

"The design + buyer" model is characterized by the fact that an enterprise usually has a leading designer and a buyer team, and the designer makes the overall layout of the product, and introduces design elements related to the brand, such as collar fashion, bright line fashion, sunshine colourful and splendid fashion, etc. on the sample purchased or purchased by oneself, and the buyer team divides the whole country to buy sample clothes (samples come from suppliers or come from large brands of garments), and form a stock of the order meeting. After the order is finished, the product reaches a single quantity and orders to the OEM factory.

In this mode, Fujian style clothing formed a buyer team very early.

However, Mr. Li also suggested that although the buyer was responsible for buying the brand, the real brand buyer is still missing in the Min clothing industry.

Mr. Li believes that the functions of the current buyers of Fujian style clothing can only be one of the functions of buyers in the real sense.

"To put it plainly is to pull back a stock and organize dealers to screen it."

If the designer is the chef of a good dish, the real brand buyer is equivalent to the "ingredient teacher" of the dish.

"They not only need to understand the needs of the market, but also need to know the R & D design, which is a highly qualified professional."

Liu Yong, chief Merchandiser of seven wolves, said.

Zhang Yufeng introduced that brand buyers must have three abilities: first, they must have strong information gathering ability; secondly, they must be able to cooperate with the designers of the enterprises; thirdly, they should have a keen judgement of clothing, that is, products that can be picked out and applauded.

Min style clothing lacks genuine buyers.

The high demand for talents makes the real brand buyers hard to find.

Fujian style clothing has long been a buyer model, but it has always been missing the real buyer, there is a deeper reason.

Some of them are objective factors, while others are subjective factors.

One of the objective factors is

Another objective reason is that many OEM suppliers are the same, and buyers are mostly trying to pick samples through the supplier's recommendation.

So the samples they choose will sometimes be very similar.

"That's why some experts said that the brands of Jinjiang and Shishi did not know whose products were covered by trademark."

Mr. Lin, another industry insider, reluctantly talked about it.

"The subjective factor is the" hidden rules "between buyers and suppliers in the industry. Buyers can buy 1-2 yuan for each purchase, and the amount of goods under a large enterprise can reach 30-50 yuan. Under such a high rebate, the rebate of a supplier is high, and buyers tend to be more inclined to their products. It is hard to say whether buyers choose products based on their products.

Mr. Lin reveals the hidden rules of the industry. "Buyers often push the kickbacks on the spot at the order, and let the low rebate or no rebate products fail to take part in the order or not."

In the subjective factor, besides the buyer's reason, there are also reasons for the brand enterprise itself.

"Brand enterprises still lack the system of casting genuine buyers, and enterprises say they are guided by the market, but in other words, they are judged by one or two people who speak with weight.

They have not yet formed a product R & D system guided by popular trends and historical sales data.

Mr. Li believes that this is the "hidden rules" within the enterprise.

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Team form avoids "hidden rules"

Although there are many industries "hidden rules", but as men's demand for product design continues to improve, enterprises are constantly groping for a more scientific buyer model.

The R & D Center launched by the Wolfgang family has emerged as a team in the form of a team, strengthening the interaction between buyers and strengthening communication between buyers and designers.

Liu Yiqun, general manager and art director of Wolf Road costumes, also believes that buyers should appear in the form of teams. "The division of responsibilities of the buyer team is different. Some people are responsible for graphic design, some are responsible for adding elements, others are responsible for the merchandising, others are responsible for selecting samples.

So they are a team.

At present, this is also common in Europe.

Li Lang will recall more than a dozen dealers representing the region every year, so that they can provide some procurement suggestions for buyers. "At the same time, we will collect sales data from more than 3000 terminals nationwide, analyze them, and use these summarized data to provide some references for buyers."

Zhang Yufeng said.

Zhang Yufeng, who once served in Lining, also introduced an approach to Lining's project system. "Lining will set up a project team temporarily according to the product category, such as Lining's football series. They will take charge of R & D department responsible for R & D personnel of the R & D football series, and call the relevant personnel from the market, sales, terminal, production and other departments to form a project team to form a viewing Committee.

Before the order meeting, one year ahead of the trial is the same as the first one, six months ahead of time for second samples, third months ahead of time three months, then finalize and proofing.

According to the insiders, such a team is also a buyer's function, which can avoid the hidden rules of the buyer team, and is more comprehensive and scientific.

Dialogue

Yang Da Jun: Dealer buyers are on the rise

With the development of the apparel industry, besides the buyers of brand enterprises, dealer buyers are slowly appearing. Buyers of this type are all brand products that have been designed. Buyers do not organize production, nor are they responsible for product development, but buy orders from the brand headquarters.

At this point, the buyer's work mainly includes group goods, merchandise management and sales tracking, and sometimes marketing, shop display and so on.

At present, the majority of small and medium-sized distributors or agents, because of limited business scale or consideration of human costs, will also be the buyers themselves.

Yang Dayun, President of UTA Fashion Management Group, has studied the buyer for many years. This time, he will interpret the dealer buyer for us.

Jinjiang economic news: clothing dealer buyers are still a very fresh group in the industry. In the past two years, the buyers of clothing enterprises began to appear some buyers. Can you analyze the causes of this phenomenon?

Yang Da Yun: the fashion buyer is a career developed in the European and American countries to a certain stage in the development of retail business. It is also a subject born in nearly ten years or nearly twenty years.

In foreign countries, the position of a buyer is usually a group, which is determined by a buyer group.

The buyer is a professional profession born in the relatively mature retail format abroad.

At present, Fujian Style Men's clothing enterprises basically use the order system. In this mode, with the improvement of consumers' ability to judge products, whether they are managers or distributors, or single store managers, their familiarity with the products, their high degree and low degree of binding to local market when ordering goods often determine the operation level of a shop, so dealers of brand enterprises need professional buyers.

Jinjiang Economic Daily: what will be the level of dealer buyer?

Yang Da Jun: the first point will directly affect the sales of products.

Our company has participated in a lot of company's order meeting. In the exhibition hall of the order meeting, we find that the product design of the season is very beautiful, the color, the sense of series and the theme are very clear.

As a result, after three or four months, we went to the store of the terminal and distributor of the company, and saw that the store was messy and irrelevant products were sold together. The direct reflection was that the dealer did not know the product and did not know the design of the company, and bought the goods directly according to his own understanding.

Now the combination of products is stronger and stronger, the sense of series is stronger and stronger, and consumers are more and more closely followed by popularity. Under such circumstances, the combination and series of products are damaged, which directly affects the sales of products.

Next is the inventory problem.

The dealer buyer has a professional understanding of the product itself. He can understand the designer's intention according to his own situation, and in the process of purchasing, cooperate with the brand characteristics of the company, and combine with the consumption level of the season to purchase products suitable for local consumption.

Under such circumstances, inventory is effectively controlled in the procurement process.

Jinjiang Economic Daily: what qualities do you think buyers of clothing dealers should possess?

Yang Da Jun: the buyer of clothing dealer must also be a fashion buyer. He should have a sense of fashion products. This feeling will definitely include clothing, the trend of the street, and the needs of consumers. But when judging a stock, he must consider not only these statistics, but also the knowledge of Statistics and marketing, and consider what goods are to be sold. Secondly, he should know something about commodities planning. He must consider how the goods will be loaded, how much they will be on each season and how long they sell each product.