Basic Knowledge Of Garment Cutting

　 Before measuring volume, we must first carefully examine the main parts of the human body. observation 。 Attention should be paid to the following points:

1. demands that the measured people should be upright. posture Naturally, don't breathe deeply.

Two Circumference When crossing, you should notice that the tape should not be too loose or too tight.

3. when the circumference of the chest is measured, the arms should be vertical and the waist should be loosened when girth.

4. winter clothing for summer, or winter clothing for summer, should be appropriately reduced or enlarged according to customer requirements in volume measurement.

5. volume body should pay attention to observe the shape characteristics, special parts should be marked for reference when cutting.

6. there are different requirements for different types of body. Fat body size should not be too fat or too thin.

The 7. volume should be carried out in sequence so as to avoid leakage.

　　 Volume specific method

1. overall height: representing the clothing number, from the head vertex to the foot.

2. coat length: from the front left side of the neck root, through the highest point of the chest, the required length is measured, and the general amount to the tiger's mouth of the hand.

3. chest circumference: representing the "type" of the coat type, balancing the circumference of the shirt along the armpit and through the chest at its fullest position for a week.

4. shoulder width: from the top of the left shoulder bone to the apex of the left shoulder to the tip of the right shoulder bone. When the style needs exaggeration, the shoulder can be relaxed. The sleeves of lanterns can be narrowed properly.

5. sleeve length: from the top of the left shoulder bone to the tiger's mouth of the hand, the length should be increased or reduced according to the need.

6. cuff: wrist circumference for one week, then add a ruler according to needs. Inch can also be calculated according to the different styles.

7. collar: one week along the laryngeal bone, plus size as required.

8. waist section: the general figure can be calculated according to the overall height. When encountering a special type, it is necessary to measure the size of the waist joint before and after the waist (at the finest part of the waist), and measure the size of the front and rear waist joints separately.

9. trousers length: from the upper left side of the left hip bone to the upper 4 cm down to the heel minus 3 centimeters.

10. waist circumference: representing trousers type "type". The circumference of the waist of the single trousers is measured at the finest point.

11. hip circumference: balance the circumference of the buttocks at the fullest place for a week, add relaxation as required.

12. upper crotch: from the upper side of the right hip bone on the waist, up to 4 cm, to the thigh root.

　　 Measurement of shoulder width and chest width

Shoulder width: the length between the left and right ends of the shoulder should be measured through the back neck point.

Back width: measure the length between the back and back axillary points of the back.

Chest width: measure the length between the front and the left axillary points.

Milk spacing: the length between the left and right peak points.

　　 Measurement of circumference

Bust: through the location of the peak, make the tape measure level for a week. Be careful not to be too tight and loose, with shoulder bones on the back.

Breast circumference: use the tape measure at the lower end of the breast for a week.

Waist circumference: use the tape measure at the top of the middle waist for a week and relax according to the variety.

Hip circumference: at the fullest part of the buttocks for a week, root varieties plus relaxation.

　　 Measurement of the length of the back and the total length

Back length: the vertical length from the back neck point to the waist line.

Chief: drop the tape from the back neck point, press it gently at the waist, and measure it to the sole of the foot.

Posterior length: from the lateral neck point to the shoulder bone line to the waist line.

Front length: from the point of the neck to the peak line to the waist line.

Milk drop and waist height measurement

Breast prolapse: from the lateral neck point to the peak point.

Waist height: the length from waist line to hip line. Measure the position near the side seam.

File length: the distance from the root of the femur to the ankle bone.

Shoulder sleeve length: starting from the back neck point, the shoulder point ends along the natural drooping arm to the root of the hand. Sleeve length: the length from the acromion to the root of the hand.

　　 Measurement of head circumference and collar circumference

Wrist circumference: one week through palm root.

Palm circumference: the female fingers bend gently to the palm, and the circumference of the female fingers is around a week.

Head circumference: one week through the center of the forehead, the upper part of the ear and the prominent part of the posterior head.

Neck circumference: one week through the neck root, through the front neck point.

　　 Measure of length and length of trousers

Clothing length: the distance from the back neck point to the bottom of the jacket. Flexible changes can be made according to the style changes.

Knee length: from the waist line to the vertical length of the kneecap.

Skirt length: from waist line to desired position.

Trousers length: from waist line to knee joint to ankle bone.

　 Measurement of middle hip circumference and large arm circumference

Middle hip circumference: measure at the middle position between waistline and hip circumference.

Arm circumference (armhole circumference): by acromion and armpit girth for one week, the size of the 1/10 can be used as the reference for armhole size.

Big arm circumference: level the circumference of the upper arm for a week.

Elbow circumference: elbow circumference is one week after curved arm. This size is necessary when drawing tight sleeves.

Teaching plan for stereoscopic cutting Chapter 1 Introduction

　 A concept of stereoscopic cutting

Stereoscopic cutting is a cutting method that distinguishes clothing from plane drawing, and it is also one of the important means to accomplish garment styling. Clothing stereoscopic cutting is called "cauge" in France. It is called "Dyapiag" in the United States and the United Kingdom, and is called "stereoscopic cutting" in Japan. It is a technology that directly covers cloth on the human body or the human body, and makes a pre conceived garment modeling by means of segmentation, folding, shrinking, stretching and other technical means, and then revise the cloth sample from the human body or the human body on the platform, and convert it into clothing pattern to make clothing.

　 Two the origin of stereoscopic cutting

The method of stereotactic cutting was developed and developed with the development of clothing civilization. The Western clothing history classifications the garment modeling into three stages: non molding, semi molding and forming. Each stage represents the development process of Western clothing history, and the stereotactic production is the third period of garment development. That is the Gothic period in history. During this period, with the establishment of western humanism philosophy and aesthetics, the stereoscopic modeling of female body curve was gradually formed on the basis of the Germanic narrower culture in North China, which became the main form of Western women's clothing since then. Therefore, the Gothic period in European history is also an important period for the formation of narrow clothing culture in European clothing history. Subsequently, the garment customization process gradually developed, because customized clothing requirements are high, so the actual body based three-dimensional cutting is inevitable, this method has been used in today's high fashion production. With the development of garment industry, people began to use a standard size mannequin instead of the human body to complete the stereoscopic cutting of a garment.

　 Three the application scope of stereoscopic cutting

Stereo cutting technology is widely used in clothing production, window display and clothing teaching.

1 stereo cutting for clothing production

Clothing production is divided into two different forms, namely quantitative garment production and one-piece tailored customization. Therefore, stereotage is often used in garment production because of the different nature of production. A combination of three-dimensional cutting and plane cutting is used to obtain the basic plate type by plane structure drawing, and then to sample and correct by three-dimensional cutting. The other is to get styling and pattern directly on the standard person stage. Stereoscopic cutting requires strict technical operation in garment production.

2 stereoscopic cutting for clothing display

Because of its maneuverability in modeling, stereotex is used not only in production but also in clothing display design, such as window display, fabric display design, and large-scale exhibition hall layout. Its exaggerated and personalized modeling is presented under the background of lighting, props and accessories. It reflects the fashion and style of fabrics in front of the audience, showing the combination of business and art.

3 stereo cutting for clothing teaching

In clothing teaching, besides the above two aspects of learning and application, more attention should be paid to the development of the potential of modeling ability and material utilization ability. Through the study of design, material, cutting and production, we will gradually grasp the stereoscopic cutting mode of thinking and various skills of manual operation, so as to perfect the creative conception perfectly. In teaching practice, students should be encouraged to expand their thinking and practice boldly. From modeling to material selection, they should have some originality. At the same time, the relationship between shape, material and sewing should be established and evaluated.

　　 Four comparison between stereoscopic cutting and plane cutting

1 advantages of planar structure

(1) the plane structure is sublimated after the summary of practical experience, therefore, it has strong theoretical nature.

(2) the plane structure size is relatively fixed, and the proportional distribution is relatively reasonable, which has strong operation stability and wide operability.

(3) due to the operability of planar structures, for some stereotyped products, it is an effective way to improve production efficiency, such as suits, grams, shirts and professional wear.

(4) the plane structure can be easily controlled in loose volume. For example, 1/4B+5, 5 is loose volume, which is easy for beginners to master and use.

2 advantages of stereoscopic cutting

(1) stereoscopic cutting is based on a human platform or a model, and it is a concrete operation, so it has higher aptamer and scientificity.

(2) the whole process of stereoscopic cutting is actually a collection of two designs, structural designs and tailoring. The process of operation is essentially a process of aesthetic experience, so three-dimensional cutting is conducive to the perfection of design.

(3) stereoscopic cutting is a way of directly operating cloth. Therefore, it has stronger feelings for fabric performance, and is more diversified in modeling expression. Many creative designs are made by three-dimensional cutting.

The second chapter of the three-dimensional cutting lesson: basic knowledge of stereoscopic cutting.

A concept of stereoscopic cutting

The cutting process of stereoscopic cutting is different from that of plane cutting. It can first draw good effect diagram, follow the pattern, or design directly on the basis of an abstract idea, because one of the outstanding features of the three-dimensional cutting technology is its strong operability, that is, the original design can be adjusted at any time during the operation process. Therefore, the use of stereotactic technology is conducive to the perfection and enhancement of the design. Besides, the fabric design is directly hung on the human body or the human body, and the design inspiration generated according to the natural form of the fabric is also the conceptual process of the three-dimensional cutting.

Two stereoscopic cutting tools and materials

The "1 person stage" is a necessary tool for modern stereotactic cutting, including standard table for clothing production, special personal table for tailoring, and nude stage for underwear research. People's stage is also divided into half body, stage, body and stage.

2 bead needles: special tailored pins, with elongated needles, which are easy to pierce through multiple layers of cloth.

3 grey cloth: solid cutting is often used as a substitute cloth to reduce cost. On the choice of substitute cloth, we should try to choose a substitute cloth with similar texture to ensure the integrity and stability of the final fabric.

4 scissors: because of the uniqueness of the stereoscopic cutting operation, 9# or 10# scissors are usually used for stereotactic cutting.

5 adhesive tape: for the determination of the expression line and styling line on the stage, it is usually replaced by a timely paste. The width of the adhesive tape is smaller and the maximum can not exceed 0.4 centimeters because it plays the role of marking.

6 other: in addition to the above basic tools and materials, iron, pens, chalk, ruler, toothed rollers, carbon paper, kraft paper and so on are also necessary.

Three preparation for stereoscopic cutting

Preparatory work must be done before cutting stereoscopic.

1 human body model correction and collation. Generally speaking, most of the human models we use are standardized models for industrial production. If it is used for the stereoscopic cutting of garment production, it only needs to select the corresponding table size. If it is made for a single piece, it is necessary to adjust the existing person's desk accordingly, and make up for the deficiency, such as the size of the chest, the shoulder height, the thickness of the back, the fullness of the abdomen and the buttocks, etc., and adjust the human table as much as possible to the shape of the wearing object. In addition to the correction of the person's desk as a result of the difference in the shape of a specific object, it is also necessary to sort out some of the special styling styles, especially those that are more exaggerated.

2 determine the basic line of the platform. The basic line is the alignment line and the reference line in the process of trimming. It is the basis for ensuring the stability of the yarn to the correct shape. Therefore, the establishment of the base line should be rigorous. The basic line of the platform consists of neck line, chest line, waist line, hip line, front and rear center line, Princess line, side seam, small shoulder line, and armhole line. The girth should be kept horizontal while the front and rear centerline should be vertical.

3 the production of fake arms - the false arm is mainly used for the stereo cutting of sleeves, and the manufacture of fake arms mainly includes cotton, cotton or acrylic cotton, cardboard, needlework and other materials.

Four technical principles of three-dimensional cutting

(1) the yarn direction of cloth used for stereotactic cutting:

The wire path of the cloth used for trimming must be corrected. Many grey fabrics often have the problem of skewness of the crossbar. Therefore, before the operation, the cloth should be ironed and ironed, so that the yarn will be leveled, and the cloth will be smoothed. At the same time, when the fabric is combined with the formal fabric, the consistency between the two yarns should be maintained, so as to ensure that the finished garments are consistent with the clothing styles on the stage.

(two) cutting technology for three-dimensional cutting:

The seams actually refer to the form of connection between sheets. The whole garment is formed by the connection of each garment piece by the seams. Therefore, the processing technology of the stitches is very important. Because the stereoscopic cutting is very intuitive, the treatment of the seams directly affects the operation and the overall shape of the garments, so the treatment technology of the seams is more prominent and practical.

1 seam design: the stitch should be designed as far as possible at the junction of each surface of the human body surface, that is, the junction of the left and right surfaces of the female chest point, the princess line; the junction of the breast surface and the armpit surface; the dividing line of the front and the lower sides; the joint between the front and the lower surfaces; the shoulder line; the combination of the armpit surface and the back surface; the dividing line of the back side; the junction of the curved surfaces on both sides of the back center line; the back seam; the upper part of the waist surface and the joint of the lower surface, waistline. The stitch design at the corresponding joint points makes the outline of the garment clearer and consistent with the human form.

2 the shape of the seam path: the shape of the seam path is very creative from the design point of view, that is, the design field is broad. However, the rationality of the structural design and the feasibility of making the process will be restricted. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to the design of the two sides of the seam path as a straight line or line shape with a slight arc shape consistent with the shape of the human body, and at the same time, the shape of both sides should be the same or similar, so as to facilitate sewing.