Comparison Of New And Old Standards In Windbreaker

1 Structure and characteristics

The new standard still adopts the basic structure of the existing woven garment standards, and specifies the scope of application, normative reference documents, requirements, inspection methods, inspection rules and signs, packaging, pportation and storage.

In the appendix, a test method for inspecting the degree of crack is introduced.

2 major changes

2.1 name

Combined with the standard system of clothing industry, the standard name raincoat is revised to windbreaker.

2.2 scope of application

The application of the old standard is: "it is applicable to raincoat garments made in bulk with textile fabrics as raw materials", and the new standard is revised to "apply to windbreaker made of textile woven fabrics as main fabrics".

The new standard redefines the windbreaker from the fiber material and fabric style. It clearly defines "woven fabric as the main fabric" and excludes knitted fabric products with a more accurate name.

2.3 labeling requirements for products

The new standard complements the identification requirements of safety technology categories according to the relevant requirements for the use instructions of clothing products in standard GB18401, which is consistent with the current national standards.

2.4 inherent quality

2.4.1 security performance

Taking into account the implementation of GB18401 and the requirements for integration with the international "green" regulations, besides the old standard formaldehyde content and dry rubbing fastness index, the new standard also supplements the assessment of basic safety technology items such as water fastness, pH value, odor and decomposable aromatic amine dyes, and stipulates that no specific value is specified for formaldehyde, pH value, odor and decomposable aromatic amine dyes, all in accordance with the relevant provisions of GB18401.

2.4.2 color fastness

In addition to increasing the color fastness to water, it also increased the assessment of color fastness to heat treatment. It abolished the assessment of color fastness to dry and wet rubbing fastness in the original standard. At the same time, the classification of top quality and first class products with wet and rubbing fastness reduced the original standard by half.

Composition and content of 2.4.3 fiber

The old standard stipulates that the ingredients and contents of raw materials for finished products should conform to the contents specified in the instructions, while the new standard increases the requirement for labeling the ingredients and contents of the finished products. The allowable deviation of fiber content is stipulated in accordance with FZ/T01053 and is consistent with other garment standards, making it easy to determine.

2.4.4 washing size change rate

The new standard also regulates terminology, revising the fabric shrinkage index in the original standard to the dimension change rate of finished product washing.

Technical indicators have also been modified.

If the old standard "fabric shrinkage rate is not greater than 3%" is improved to "clothing length: superior quality -1.5 ~ +1.0, first class -2.5 to +1.0, qualified product -3.0 to +1.0; bust: excellent products -1.0 ~ +0.5, first grade -2.0 ~ +0.5, qualified product -2.5 ~ -2.5".

Similarly, the technical standard of dry cleaning shrinkage in the old standard is revised as the assessment index of dry cleaning dimension change rate. Accordingly, the clothing length of the old standard is changed from "less than 1" to "-1.0 to +1.0", and the chest circumference is changed from "less than 0.8" to "-0.8 to +1.0".

This avoids the fact that the rate of change in product size is due to unacceptable "upside down" standards.

In other respects, the new standard has also been appropriately adjusted and supplemented.

For example, because the combed products are not suitable for making windbreaker, the content of pilling test for such products is abolished. In order to take into account the technical requirements of GB/T21295-2007's "physical and chemical properties of clothing" standard, we also adjusted the assessment requirements for the slip strength, peel strength, tear strength, etc., and no specific numerical indicators were specified. The relevant values were executed according to GB/T21295.

2.5 appearance quality

2.5.1 appearance quality

The biggest change of the new standard in appearance requirements is to substantiate and improve the content of quality defect determination, and modify the number of single samples.

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2.5.2 appearance defects

Appearance defects, as important items affecting the appearance of garments, always determine the acceptability of consumers and the external quality of clothing. However, the old standards do not satisfy the requirements of the quality control of the windbreaker at present. The new standards have made adjustments and supplements, and added "yarn coarse three fold roving", "big belly yarn 3", "coarse grain roving", "wool grain", "color file", "stripe", "lack of Jing" and other fabric yarn defect indicators.

2.5.3 sewing quality

The new standard has also made some modifications and supplements in sewing.

In order to ensure the firmness of the stitches, the new standard has raised the assessment index. For example, if there are no 2 single jumps and continuous jumps in the 30 cm of the sewing thread in the old standard, the chain line stitches are not allowed to jump.

The technical content of the strip pair is modified, and the requirement of the front and back pair of bars is tightened. The original "mutual difference is not greater than 0.4 cm", and the "mutual difference is not greater than 0.3 cm".

The new standard also increased the stipulation of pairs of pairs of sleeves and predecessors, sleeve joints, back seam and back shoulder. It revised the benchmark requirements of the front and left sides, the difference between the bag and the front grid, and the evaluation index of the splicing was also more perfect.

2.5.4 other supplements

According to the quality requirements of raw materials for windbreaker, the new standard has increased the requirements for shoulder pads, inserts and other dressings.

There are also technical regulations for the warp and weft of finished products.

3 recommendations

The new standard is more scientific and perfect in terms of contents and regulations than the old ones.

But in the actual operation process, some details or descriptions are not rigorous enough. We should make necessary additions in combination with the current reality.

3.1 degree of crack

The new standard modifies the technical content of appendix A "test method of stitch crack degree", clarifies the effective clamping area of the clamp on the sample, unifies the interpretation of the sample selection, and explains the handling methods of the easily occurring abnormal phenomena in detail. These modifications are more convenient for operation and determination.

However, the determination of slippage in physical and chemical properties is that the results of fabric breakage, fabric tear or suture fracture are judged to be qualified.

The provisions are clearly inconsistent with the previous GB/T2660-2008 "shirt" and GB/T22700-2008 "water cleaning clothing". These two standards clearly specify that a fracture is not qualified.

From the perspective of convergence and unification of similar standards, such regulations are not uniform.

From the aspect of wearability, if the fabric breaks early in the drawing process, it shows that the fabric strength is low, and the quality of the product is most likely to be unqualified.

Therefore, judging from the angle of ensuring the quality of clothing and safeguarding the interests of consumers, it seems inappropriate to be qualified.

3.2 stitch density

In view of the recent changes in keyhole equipment and technology, the new standard has perfected and supplemented manual needle and triangle needle needle density assessment indicators, and improved the needle trace density requirements.

For example, the old standard "10 needles /3 cm to 14 needles /3 cm" is revised to "12 needles /3 cm to 14 needles /3 cm", below the standard 2 needle (2 needles) is a light defect, below the standard 2 needle above the heavy defects, and for the higher range of the unexplained, this may lead to a time limit without a rule.

Therefore, it is recommended to refer to the FZ/T81007-2003 standard of "single and clipped garments" to change this part to more than 12 needles /3cm, or to supplement the judgement or explanation of the distance between the upper and the upper limit of the interval.

4 Conclusion

The new standard embodies the principles of advanced technology, economic rationality, safety, reliability and coordination. The standards are more perfect and reasonable, and the level is obviously improved. It can provide better technical basis for product production and trade, but some details still need to be improved and perfected.