On The Political Concept, Cultural Background And Social Functions Of The Chinese Tunic Suit

Two, the origin of the Chinese tunic suit.

The academia has not studied too much about the Zhongshan suit, and even has little discussion on the Zhongshan suit itself.

Therefore, the discussion on the origins of Chinese tunic suits is not yet conclusive.

　　有觀點認為中山裝是孫中山先生在河內籌組興中會時，為了節省外匯，在一家廣東籍服裝商人黃隆生店內，授意黃先生按南洋“企領文裝”設計縫制的;另有人認為，中山裝是由軍裝改成的，孫中山居上海期間，將一件從日本帶回來的日本陸軍士官服送到一家他經常做西服的“榮昌祥”(另有亨利服裝店一說)西服店，讓老板以此為基樣，設計一套具有中國特色、符合中國國情的服裝; 最近，上海大學社會科學學院李堅副教授提出了新的觀點認為：中山裝的誕生與寧波籍紅幫裁縫密切相關，第一款正式的中山裝是由紅幫重要人物王才運根據孫中山的要求與1916年縫制而成的(在西服進入中國后，中國的西服裁縫被稱之為紅幫)。

All kinds of statements have their own basis, and they all have certain reasons.

In terms of form, Zhongshan suit does have some similarities with Nanyang's "corporate dress" and Japanese "student clothes".

There is no refutation of the origin of the Chinese tunic suit.

In my opinion, the Chinese tunic suit is the product of the combination of "traditional Chinese dress" and "western style clothes", which are influenced by the traditional Chinese dress concept.

First of all, Western-style clothes and other foreign clothing have formed the Chinese people's initiative to accept and choose the new things of foreign clothing on the visual effect and the main body feeling. Compared with the traditional Chinese clothing, Western-style clothes are more or less dominant in fashion trends, wearing time occasions, social feedback results and so on.

Therefore, many residents in big cities, especially those outside the country and overseas students, have strong subjective acceptance of Western clothing, that is, they have initiative in their choice.

This is a major feature of modern China.

Therefore, Chinese costume will also be influenced by foreign products. There is no doubt about it. Moreover, Sun Zhongshan's acceptance of Western goods and his understanding of himself are the same.

However, under the premise of the traditional Chinese costume being impacted, the traditional Chinese idea will not disappear, and the design of the Chinese tunic suit still has traces of the influence of traditional culture.

Because the birth environment of Chinese tunic suits is a strong cultural background of traditional culture.

The Cultural Anthropological Explanation of the great cultural background is: "the whole way of people's behavior and way of thinking in a given area is manifested through the creation of spiritual wealth, whose structure and function are constant and cover a wide range, thus forming a cultural atmosphere and cultural orientation with great influence."

When the cultural nature of clothing is placed in the general cultural atmosphere, there is a large cultural background of clothing.

That is, the cultural meaning of clothing contains rich content, deep and solid historical accumulation, and penetrating power, and has a decisive effect.

In terms of Chinese tunic suit, the form of Chinese tunic suit itself is influenced by traditional Chinese culture and traditional ideas.

On the neckline, from the tight fitting neck, collar and wind buckle of Zhongshan suit, it is distinctly different from the open and extroverted features of Chinese suit. Chinese Confucian culture has the characteristics of humility and introverted character, and the tight collar of the Chinese tunic is the best embodiment; Jiang Jieshi even defines the closed collar as the "strict rule" standard.

It is now that there is still a strict demand for Chinese tunic suit, that is, to close up the fashion buttons and not to open the neckline at a quick pace, it will be neither fish nor fowl.

In the political concept section of the Zhongshan suit mentioned earlier, Sun Zhongshan changed the three bag of western suit to four bags, which was endowed by Jiang Jieshi with the four dimensional meaning of founding the country. The four dimensions were "ritual, righteousness, honesty and shame". In Confucian culture, "propriety, righteousness, honesty and shame" are the essence of the doctrine of the mean and the middle road; and in the view of Chinese aesthetics, the four pairs of pockets are balanced and symmetrical.

The lower part of the bag is an elastic "Piano bag". Sun Zhongshan used to hold books and other articles to show his "never forget the virtues of reading".

In terms of color, the Chinese tunic suit has two kinds of black and white, summer is white, other seasons are black, and later it develops into other colors. But one thing, the colors of the Chinese tunic suit are never too bright. On the one hand, the Chinese tunic suit is needed for the occasion of the official dress of the Republic of China, but fundamentally speaking, it is influenced by the Chinese mentality, temperament and middle way.

{page_break}