Requirements And Cultural Characteristics Of Modern Suit Lining
Over the years, in all kinds of men's clothing, the most basic and constant quality is the suit. Because the orthodox and solemn style of Western-style clothes represents men's social status, essential strength and personality. charm Over the years of  200, it is still thrive. With the development of social economy and the progress of textile and garment technology, the fabrics and accessories used for sewn suits have changed a lot, but the basic requirements of sewn clothes have not changed.
Since 1990s, there have been some changes in the design and tailoring of suits, but they are only manifested in the innovation of Western-style clothes. Compared with traditional suits, the most obvious changes in modern new style suits are in the production process and dressing concept. First of all, it adopts thin wool fabric with light weight, soft handle, good drape and high quality. The colors and patterns of these fabrics are more colorful, bright, relaxed, natural and modern. Secondly, the cutting technology adopts the popular "soft cutting" in Europe, so that the appearance of the suit is more smooth and natural. The shoulders of the suit are round and thin shoulder pads, the shoulders are round and smooth, and the lines are no longer stiff; at the waist, the waist is loosened and comfortable, and the waist line is more comfortable and comfortable. It is naturally streamlined. The arms can be extended freely, and the clothes are longer than the traditional traditional suits, and the shape is more casual, rigid and informal. Third, in the use of accessories, high quality excipients are used, such as commonly used adhesive lining, black carbon lining and lining, etc. the handle is softer, lighter, better in shape and easy to wear. Fourth, the style of the suit is both solemn and novel. On the basis of traditional single row 2 button and double row 4 buckles, it develops into a variety of 3 buttons, 4 buckles or 6 grain buckles. The upper part of the suit is slit or the back middle slit, and the patch bag is diversified. It is more suitable for modern style. It can show the masculinity of men and reflect the pursuit of elegance, elegance and cordial style of men's wear in recent years.
This article focuses on the new style Western-style clothes in recent years, focusing on the basic requirements and main features of the lining for men's suits.
The position and requirement of men's suit coat
As we all know, the quality of a suit is mainly determined by its internal structure and material. although Popular Fashion is constantly changing, but every suit is still constructed by using interlining to build its "skeleton" and "backbone". It helps to create a beautiful exterior form of western style clothes with good compatibility between fabric and linings.
Because of the different styles of western style clothes and the different manufacturing processes in different regions, there are some differences in the types of linings and the size of the lining and the size of the lining used in sewn suits, but the specifications of the conventional suits and linings are basically the same.
The production process and lining methods of western style clothes
Looking at the production technology of Western-style clothes at home and abroad, there are 3 main types of Western-style clothes, that is, traditional technology, semi traditional technology and modern technology, and the corresponding suits are also in 3 different ways.
Traditional craft suit
A suit made of traditional technology is also known as a full wool suit. This technology is currently the first choice for the manufacture of high quality Western-style clothes and top quality suits at home and abroad. The traditional craft suits are lined with full wool lining, that is to say, the parts of the upper body, the barge head and the noodles of the suit are not lined with adhesive, and all the high-grade black carbon lining is selected. The chest and shoulders of the suit are made of high quality black carbon liners, high density horsetail liners and chest hair. The suit made by this technology is not only fit and comfortable, but also has a smooth appearance and a strong sense of three-dimensional. In particular, the shape of the chest is very full and elegant. Because this kind of Western-style clothing's sewing is mainly by the manual operation, the work is very exquisite, the production process consumes the working hours to be many, selects the material and the material. accessories They are very expensive, so the cost of making suits is very high, about 5~6 times the cost of ordinary suits.
Semi traditional craft suit
Semi traditional technology is formed on the basis of traditional Western-style clothing technology. It keeps the main characteristics of traditional technology, and the suit made by this process is also called semi woolen lining suit. Its lining usually has  2 ways: one is that the corresponding parts of the front part of the suit are bonded with the spun adhesive lining as the big lining, while the black lining is the black carbon lining. The other is that the front part of the suit is glued with the spun adhesive lining as the big body lining, and then the high-quality black carbon lining is used as the main chest lining at the waist body above the waist section, and the same black carbon lining is used for the head lining. When the lining is cut, the main chest lining and the barge head can be cut together, and the barge liner can be cut and lined with the main liner respectively. In the chest and shoulders, we also use high-quality black carbon lining, high density horsetail lining and chest hair. The suits made by this technology are lighter in body and smooth in the hail, comfortable and comfortable to wear. Compared with the traditional craft suit, it is relatively simple and time-saving, and the processing cost is reduced, but the shape retention of the garment is not as good as that of the traditional craft suit.
Modern technology Man's suit
Modern technology refers to the technology used in the production of Western-style clothes at home and abroad by using advanced assembly line equipment. The suit made of this technology is also called adhesive lining suit. The biggest difference between modern technology and traditional and semi traditional technology lies in the fact that first of all, the big lining and the barbed lining of Western-style clothes are replaced by the black carbon lining with the spun bonded lining, and the adhesive lining of the big body and the barbel head is usually connected together for cutting and bonding. Secondly, the chest and shoulder lining of the suit is widely used in the combination chest lining (open lining) made of pre processed stereotypes. The sewing assembly is directly carried out on the assembly line according to the technological process requirements. Third, the common collar bottom lining in the western-style collar is replaced with a better plastic collar, and the collar shape and the body fit effect of the suit are better after being drawn and drawn. The interlining of modern craft suits is lightweight. soft It is flexible enough to fully embody the requirements of light, hailstone, soft and comfortable clothing for modern suits. Modern technology suits absorb the essence of traditional and semi traditional suit. Most of the sewing operations are replaced by highly automated mechanical equipment. It is especially suitable for the mass production of all kinds of professional suits and ordinary suits. As the main production processes of western style clothing, such as cutting, gluing, sewing and ironing, are processed by advanced mechanical equipment, the production efficiency of suits is not only improved, but also the production cost is significantly reduced.
Influence of lining materials and coating technology on the quality of western style clothes
As mentioned above, Man's suit In addition to the factors such as design and processing, the quality is closely related to the surface and auxiliary materials and the coating process. With the development of science and technology and the development of new textile materials, the fabrics and accessories used in modern suits have changed a lot. The new style suit not only tends to be lighter and modern in the selection of wool, but also has many different excipients. For example, the bottom cloth of the spun bonded lining is softer, lighter and more elastic than the past. There are many improvements in the varieties of hot-melt adhesive, the way of coating and the finishing process. The black carbon lining and core lined horsetail lining and chest Plush are lighter in weight, better in handle, elasticity and recovery. The lining material is soft, smooth, moisture absorbing, breathable and antistatic. The environmental performance of lining and lining, such as the content of free formaldehyde and the limits of toxic and harmful dyes and chemicals, have been tighter. These have improved the quality of western style clothes and made them safer and more comfortable to wear.
Modern technology suits are mainly made of adhesive lining, which not only simplifies the lining technology of suits, improves production efficiency, but also contributes to the stability of product quality. As long as the adhesive lining is properly matched with the fabric and the choice of the bonding process parameters is reasonable, the inner quality of the suit can be guaranteed. The traditional technology suits are still covered with black carbon lining, mainly by manual lining. They can tailor and tailor carefully according to the requirements of the wearer and the shape of the body, so as to ensure the quality of the suit. At present, most traditional tailored suits and international famous brand handmade suits are mostly selected by traditional lining technology.
The requirements of the lining are different from that of the suit. Characteristic There are also differences.
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