Her Skirt Is A Sharp Sword.

In the middle of this month, Japan Latest fashion Wakubo Rei, the design master, launched the name " Blackshop "The new time shop of Chinese translation" black shop ", and launched a series of" Black "limited style, in order to commemorate the 40 years of personal brand growth process. From the "black jacket" to the present pioneer designer, Wakubo Rei, 66, still speaks with pride in her alternative black, alternative cold, and other profound esoteric. Originality, of course, is an indispensable part of her success. However, she has the power to transcend the fashion life of clothing itself, and in the past 40 years, she always has a sense of urgency to think ahead. Some commentators laughed, Wakubo Rei represented a fashion product of "avant-garde" and "fashionable" mentality, while she herself said, "my skirt is a sharp sword and ready to fight."

　　
Shanghai is one of Wakubo Rei's fans. Even at the end of last year's financial crisis, when the cheap fashion chain store H&M launched the autumn winter limited series with Wakubo Rei, it still caused the most unprecedented rush buying rush in the world at the end of the year. Among them, Shanghai is the first time in the global sales competition of H&M, with the speed of 10 minutes sold out.

　　
"I want to use mine. Design War "

　　
Wakubo Rei's 40 year fashion story is to start her own business in Japan in 1969. clothing The shop began to talk about it. In 1973, she took brand The name is CommedesGarcons in French, and Chinese means "like a boy". At that time, many people would mistakenly believe that the brand name has some feminist connotation. In fact, this is only the inspiration she obtained from a French ballad. But the name is straight forward to the popular and design concept she understands: the avant-garde image of originality, blending the ideas of East and West. Most of her early works are urban women's work clothes. They are nothing new, but her punk culture of her native husband, Adrian Trofi (AdrianJoffe).

　　
At that time, the British economy was in a doldrums, but there was a wave of thought. Poor children with poor backgrounds want to be attractive, without financial resources and social status, can only make a big fuss about their physical skin. Oil painting, dyeing, tattooing, piercing and piercing, and then matching white faces with retro black clothes to show the new romantic Street trend, showing dissatisfaction with the traditional social system. This trend of thought gave Wakubo Rei a rich source of creativity. When "black" could not be regarded as a fashion color and dramatization still remained in the process of carving, she took the lead in launching a large number of black, using asymmetrical fashion aesthetics and pendant details, and using ragged tailored "beggars, hungry and happy" beggars, broke the consistent fashion of women's fashion, and strongly influenced the high fashion area that was still rich. In 1981, Wakubo Rei launched the first fashion show in Paris, to revolt the rebellious flavor and satisfy the taste of the younger generation who greet novelty, novelty and expectation. In 1982, she opened boutique boutique in Paris and formally entered the international fashion circle.

　　
Wakubo Rei still remembered that it was not easy to start a business at that time. "I never felt that my design work was related to being a woman. I am not a feminist. I have never been interested in all kinds of sports. I just decided to open a company that can be creative, and use my design as a sword. When I want to start the war, I can use my design to fight. 40 years later, this sword has been popular in the field of fashion, and Wakubo Rei's fighting spirit remains unchanged.

　　
Susie Mancus, the chief Fashion Critic of the International Herald Tribune (SuzyMenkes), is the world's only remaining "star demon" who is brave enough to speak and dare to shout at the branding designers. In a sentence, she summed up Wakubo Rei's 40 years accurately: "Wakubo Ling created a rebellious cry in the fashion world, and the essence of creation lies in curiosity and cultural awareness." We can hardly imagine if Wakubo Rei's fashion design would be another trend without the influence of punk culture.

　　
Grasp the fashionable mentality of "being humble"

　　
Wakubo Rei has a more vivid comment on his design: "the most important thing for me is information. Looking at my design, my product line and my sketches, or my collaboration with artists and photographers, I want to tell you a story. If there is no information, everything is dead, and the amount of information makes the work profound. So from this perspective, I may be more suitable to be a journalist than an artist.

　　
Wakubo Rei finally did not become a journalist, but she, like the best fashion reporter, firmly grasped the people -- rich or poor -- in the face of the delicate mentality of fashion: if you try to please them, they despise you; you have to talk to yourself and follow suit. This kind of psychology, dubbed as "cheap", has proved to be a trial and error.

　　
From the start of her business, Wakubo Rei spent a lot of effort in the field of visual design, advertising and shop decoration. She believed that all these fields are actually different parts of a vision. Wakubo Rei's Aoyama store in Tokyo is decorated with blue dot glass sloping roof, which is a masterpiece by her and another architect. Since then, she has continued this particular idea in stores all over the world. The cost of these storefront decorations is ultimately consumers' pay, but in the face of exquisitely carved Wakubo Rei stores, and those brands that are not at all normal proportions and must be instructed according to instructions, people still enjoy their enthusiasm and money.

　　
In addition to franchised stores, the interesting Limited shop is definitely the most characteristic design of Wakubo Rei. The concept of "time limited sales" in the marketing world comes from the guerrilla shop of Chuan Jiu Bao Ling. There are several principles for this type of store: first, it is early to preset the end time before it has started. It only wants to appear in a certain place in a short period of time. The next time is another state. The period is usually 1 years. Secondly, the place is unknown. Mystery is the fun. The location must be far away from the traditional commercial street shop. It must be hidden to the public to find the address in the city after hearing the wind, so that it is a complete anti commercialization mass production; third, overdue, so that people can not help but want to see what different secret fun they can have for each time. When we meet, we catch it; if we miss it, it will disappear into the air like a bubble.

　　
Tens of thousands of Yuan's brand clothes must be bought in a tortuous way. Such a big game of "spending your money on you," attracts many fashion designers, and even experienced Japanese fans can earn a fortune by selling such "information". In other words, "cheap" is often a common disease of fashion designers. Only when they are tortured can they have fun.

　　
From tens of thousands of dollars to hundreds of dollars.

　　
There is no doubt that Wakubo Rei is not a designer, but also a businessman who is well versed in the way of management. "Strong cooperation", or "cross-border", is something she is very willing to try. Tens of thousands of top brand LV, down to hundreds of civilian brand H&M, left behind Wakubo Rei's brilliant handwriting.

　　
Last year, LV celebrated its 30th anniversary entry into Japan. It opened a LV area in Wakubo Rei's store in Castle Peak, showing her six packages specially designed for LV. Wakubo Rei's marketing model is again staged: the series only accepts orders, sells only in this exclusive store, and does not accept telephone and Internet booking.

　　
However, smart and avant-garde, such as Chuan Jiu Bao Ling, will not ignore the trend of low cost fashion in recent years. Starting from the recession of the Japanese economy in the 90s of last century, many Japanese fashion companies began to produce low cost fashions with careful consideration. Of course, this does not mean that Japanese fashion has lost its original influence. On the contrary, the special commercial environment has created a unique street fashion (streetfashion) in Japan. This street style is not only popular in Japan, but also in every corner of the world. Even Wakubo Rei and other design masters began to get inspiration from street style. In Europe and America, the brands represented by ZARA, H&M, Gap and C&A have led the parity force in the fashion circle, and they are also called the "four major brands of fashion brand killer". The British Guardian once called these "fashion brand shops" "Mc-Fashion" (fast fashion), and prefix Mc was taken from Mc-Donald 's, meaning McDonald's fast. The characteristics of these brands are: faster update, lower price, richer goods, larger and more comfortable storefront. Consumers who can afford CommedesGarcons products are limited after all, so when H&M put out an olive branch to Chuan Jiu Bao Ling, she happily agreed.

　　
Wakubo Rei's fashion design for H&M combines Japanese street style and her personal favorite dot dot pattern shirt, short skirt and asymmetrical coat for years. These products are all sought after by fans and let Wakubo Rei appear to be "close to the people". After all, to buy a CommedesGarcons is worth tens of thousands of yuan, but a H&M designed by her is worth hundreds of dollars. Wakubo Rei himself said: "now we are in a world of money supremacy, and we have lost some of our independence and innovation. The values lie in: simple and easy. Many people worry that this will reduce the number of CommedesGarcons customers, but Chuan Jiu Bao Ling said: "more new customers will know CommedesGarcons through H&M, which is very attractive to me."

　　
"Every woman should have her own life and satisfy herself."

　　
Wakubo Rei rarely used her unimaginable avant-garde designs in her works. When she appeared in public, she always kept a rigid bangs, a simple black dress and all kinds of flat shoes. According to her, "black is comfortable, powerful and expressive. I always feel comfortable with black. " From her beginning, black became the fashion woman's choice.

　　
As a female, Wakubo Rei did not think that wearing beautiful clothes was the only way for women. Over the years, she used heavy heavy and neutral striped fabrics to match asymmetrical tailoring, loopholes and collage. In addition, the obvious stitches, the inside and outside turns lining, the long and long crotch, and the zipper that slanted to the side in the past fashions have become a kind of unfinished unscruffy design. Interestingly, in such a masculine aesthetic standard, she still stubbornly retained very feminine or even high-quality pink, pink, shiny pieces, and various dots.

　　
Even with the mainstream feminist culture, Wakubo Rei will interpret it in her own way. In 2005, Wakubo Rei launched a BrokenBride called "broken bride". The T stage was covered with thick white powder and two cheeks were black. The model of a corpse like a corpse bride was stunned. Many people said that such a bridal dress would not frighten the groom. Wakubo Rei explained by himself: "this is not just a show about wedding, though literally you can understand it. However, to break the rules of traditional wedding dress, we need to completely cross the concept of wedding dress. The deeper meaning I want to convey is: even if it is a wedding, it may not necessarily be happy.

　　
As a woman, Wakubo Reisai discovered many things that were covered with high fashion and fashionable clothes. Behind her tattered cloth, there was a recognition of herself. According to Wakubo Rei, "my goal is that every woman can have her own life and satisfy herself. Women do not need to dress up for the sake of pleasing men, emphasize their bodies, and then determine their happiness from the satisfaction of men, but use their own ideas to attract them.