The Ancient Official Uniform Such As "Wu Mao Cap" Is Related To The Costumes Of Ethnic Minorities.

The beard's clothes become the crown of the Han Dynasty

Hanfu sports are in the ascendant.

Moreover, this grassroots movement has deep spiritual connection with the understanding of the Han nationality.

From the point of view of advocating Hanfu on the Internet, "Hanfu refers to the clothing system of the Han nationality before the Qing government implemented the Shah and the Five Emperors". "Although the Han nationality costume is influenced by other ethnic costumes, its basic national characteristics have not changed", for example, "the men's collar wear has been extended from the Tang Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty".

Is that so?

This article describes an important event that occurred in the late Northern Dynasty.

The beautiful history of clothing evolution may give us a deeper understanding and recognition of the "Chinese nation".

The meaning of "gauze cap" can be said to be known to all. "The wearing of black cap" and "losing the black cap" are still frequently applied today.

Through ancient painting and opera performance, people have a deep impression: wearing a black cap, wearing a collar and gown, hanging a jade belt, and pedaling soap boots are the classic features of ancient Chinese officials.

However, this dress has a distinct starting point in history, that is, the late Northern Dynasty.

In the Qin, Han, Wei and Jin Dynasties, in the Southern Dynasty, and even in the early Northern Dynasty, there was absolutely no similar pattern of men's clothing.

In the Tang Dynasty, scholars in the Tang and Song dynasties were all aware of the important changes in clothing that took place in the Northern Dynasties.

For example, Shen Kuo pointed out in "Mengxi Bi Tan" that "since the Northern Qi Dynasty, the Chinese style of clothing has been completely used by Hu."

Narrow sleeves, scarlet green shorts, long boots, and belts are all beard.

Narrow sleeves are good for shooting. Short clothes and long hay are easy to involve in grass.

Zhu Xi also clearly stated in the Zhu Ziyu class: "today's clothes are mostly beard, such as the upper collar, boots and shoes.

First, crown clothes, sweep the floor.

The chaos of China's dress and clothing came from Jin Wu Hu, and later inherited it. Tang followed the Sui Dynasty, and then the Zhou Dynasty.

Zhu Xi mentioned the "upper collar" and "upper collar clothes", which is the predecessor of the "collar collar". When the Northern Qi Dynasty first appeared, this jacket was indeed a "Narrow Sleeve" short coat. As Shen Kuo pointed out, its shape was designed to facilitate horse riding, archery and trudge in the grassland.

The most special part of this coat is called "upper collar" in its collar, Tang and Song dynasties. In the Ming Dynasty, it was called "Regiment Collar", "collar" or "round collar". It cut the neckline into a round circle tightly around the neck, and the buttoning of the button was on the two shoulder.

This form is obviously designed to prevent sand from pouring into the neckline. In addition, once the weather gets hot, unbuttoned the shoulders, and turn a pair of "upper collar" valgus into an open "Lapel", just like the lapel of today's suit, so that it can dissipate heat and perspire.

It is also on the upper collar and shirt, for the convenience of riding, and initiates the "slit" that may be Persian.

Buttons and slits, which have never been seen in costumes of Qin and Han Dynasties, will gradually change into bright spots on Chinese traditional costumes. They first appeared on top collar and shirts to serve the convenience of horse riding.

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The belt tied on the waist of the upper collar is a special "Ribbon". There are metal rings on the belt, with long and thin belts called "kouzi". These vertical bands are provided with buckles, which can be used for carrying knives, arrows and all kinds of small objects that are needed.

After the Tang Dynasty, the settlement mode of life in the agricultural society became normal. People did not need to carry daily objects on the belt. The ring gradually became a luxurious ornament and evolved the jade belt often mentioned in literature.

As for the long boots, it is obviously the source of "soap boots".

In the late Northern Dynasty, a new headgear called "tou tou" appeared.

According to the view of the book of etiquettes of the Sui Dynasty, the head is derived from the "Han dress", formerly the scarf of the Eastern Han Dynasty, namely the square scarf.

However, Mr. Sun believes that the head is improved by the Xianbei hat, so it is still a kind of "Hu Fu".

In the times of Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty, the towels were pformed and tied to the four corners of the towel. At the same time, a very beautiful way of knot formation was invented. A pair of towels was tied to the back of the brain, and the other pairs of towels were tied forward and tied at the top of the head, so it was also called "folding towel".

The purpose of inventing the head is also to "serve the people".

However, between the Sui and Tang Dynasties, in order to pursue the beautiful appearance of the shape, the head was lined with rigid lining.

From Tang Dynasty to Song Dynasty, the towel angle has been pformed into a hat and wing that is newly developed. At the same time, it uses a stiff lacquer yarn as a fabric and eventually forms a "black cap".

In short, the head, the upper collar, the belt and the long boots are a complete set of horse riding clothing, a battle suit, or a complete set of cavalry uniform.

In Sui and Tang Dynasties, the upper classes were made up of vigorous military aristocrats, so the clothes they wore daily were automatically established as a clothing standard in the national political center.

As early as the northern and Southern Dynasties, there was a division between the north and the south. The male aristocracy in the Southern Dynasties still maintained the upper and lower skirts, but "the Northern Dynasties were mixed with the system of the Imperial Army".

Sui, Tang, and two dynasties followed the style of the Northern Dynasties. Although seriously and rigorously, they formulated a complete set of complicated instrument and clothing system in the spirit of "ritual". Unfortunately, none of the athletes who ran wild on horseback can get used to long skirts, high shoes and dangerous crowns. Can you expect Eisenhower to walk around wearing skirts every day? So, in addition to the solemn occasions like "Yuan Zheng assembly", they usually wear casual clothes that are convenient to wear.

Tang family emperor took the lead in not seriously respecting the ancient rites. "Its usual clothes, red and yellow robes, folded headscarves, nine girdle bands, and Liuhe boots, all started from (North) Wei (North) week, convenient for military affairs.

Since the Zhenguan period, both the Yuan Dynasty and the winter solstice were often served by the North Korea and the great sacrifices.

(Li Yuan, Li Shimin, these two natural fighters) are all military uniforms which are fully matched with scarf, robe, belt and boots.

As time goes by, this set of agile and vigorous clothes has gradually evolved into a song and Ming Dynasty that is full of luxuriance and grace. Wen Ya