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    Why Is Advanced Customization Not Taking The Right Path In China?

    2010/11/24 20:30:00 81

    High Fashion Market

    Liu Yang, the famous designer in China, has just finished his first high quality custom release show in the country. The 10 sets of orders and the high price that night made him firm in his judgement: Chinese high fashion.

    Customized

    There's an atmosphere.


    In fact, it is not just Liu Yang and other local designers and clothing brands who are optimistic about China's advanced customization industry. Chanel, Armani and other international brands are also entering the Chinese market with their signboard advanced customization.

    The industry predicts that China's high fashion will be customized or will become a climate within 5 years. The entry of international brands will pose a great challenge to local brands. The lack of standards, the abuse of concepts and the profit margins are the main problems affecting the industry.


    Facing the challenge of international customization


    According to the latest data from the World Luxury Association, the total consumption of luxury goods in China has accounted for 27.5% of the world's total, and will occupy the global market in the next 5 years.

    Luxury goods

    The first place of consumption.

    The relevant data also show that China's advanced customization market capacity is about billion yuan.


    International brands have been distributing the Chinese market, indicating that there is a big market for Chinese advanced customization.

    Among them, the Armani high profile brings advanced customization to Shanghai. Paris fashion master La Kat also walks into Beijing's China Art Museum with his million euros worth of high fashion.


    The fashion watchdog Lu Ming told reporters that in recent years, western advanced customization has seen a recession. For example, France, which has the most advanced customization, has less than 20 million dollars in annual sales of its high fashion custom, and China, as an emerging market for luxury consumption, has become the focus of International customized brand competition.


    When international brands are threatening, local designers such as Liu Yang, Marry Ma, Guo Pei and others are also stepping up their weaving of their advanced customization dreams to defend the territory that should belong to Chinese designers.


    As a designer in 1991, Liu Yang has finally unveiled his first high custom release show in the country, which opened his top custom plan: first half year of next year in Guangzhou to set up the first custom - themed life hall in the first half of next year.

    Marry Ma's advanced custom brand has gradually penetrated into the international community; NE TIGER has been working in the field of advanced tailor's evening dress; Guo Pei has also integrated the management of its high-end custom store.


    Lu pointed out that the introduction of international advanced customization brands to China is still a big challenge for them. "Advanced customization can no longer rely solely on designers' personal charisma to operate. It needs a sound brand management team."


    Advanced customization is abused in China


    However, just as international brands and local designers are planning their respective blueprints for China's advanced customization, the industry pointed out that China's advanced customization has been abused and questioned whether China's advanced customization is enough.


    According to the industry, Ms. Lin pointed out that advanced customization has been overused in China. "Now a casual designer makes a release show, which is called advanced customization, and a casual clothing brand is more expensive than the daily series.

    At present, many designers start their studio in the name of advanced customization, and these studios may be more biased towards customization rather than advanced customization.


    How can it be called advanced customization? Obviously, the Chinese market lacks a standard.

    It is reported that France has a very strict standard for advanced customization. It must be customized by the designer of a high fashion designer for the customers. The designer and his fashion shop must be identified by the French High Fashion Association. The designer's studio employs at least 20 full-time employees, and the title of the advanced customization of his works is protected by law.


    Lu Ming believes that because of the lack of standards in the Chinese market for advanced customization, advanced customization has become the concept of business speculation. "In this way, advanced customization has been abused, and the result of abuse is the development of the industry."


    As Liu Yang, vice president of the China Fashion Designers Association, admitted that the fact that advanced customization has been abused in the Chinese market. "We do not have to follow the French standard of high customization, we can have advanced customization adapted to modern upstarts, so it is very important to set up the standard of high level customization in China."

    He disclosed that he and related associations planned to standardize advanced customization.


    Profit is difficult to compete with civilian customization {page_break}


    Following the 2007 PPG "0 inventory profit myth", China's apparel network customization, civilian customization and so on constantly played the banner of "personalized customization".

    The same is custom-made but more common than the price of advanced customization. This fast-growing customized industry undoubtedly brings unlimited temptation to advanced customization.


    Industry insiders say that high fashion is a loss making business. Pushing a customized brand can quickly return the funds, which is more commercial value for the designer.

    Liu Yang said that advanced customization is the dream of every designer, and it is a dream that needs persistence.

    Because for designer, the sale price of advanced custom works is high, but the profit space is much smaller than that of the public.


    At present, the advanced garment and customization industry in China is facing huge profit pressure.

    Guo Peiceng, a designer of high customization, wrote a piece of money to reporters: a price tag of 100 thousand yuan, which cost more than a year's work. This is not a year for a person, but a year of embroidery for 3~4. According to the average wage, their wages will be 50 thousand ~6 yuan, which does not include the cost of designers and other departments. And it has not yet calculated the cost of fabrics, materials and so on. Therefore, it can be said that 100 thousand yuan clothes are not expensive, and that the advanced customization can not get much profit from it.


    Quotations from famous teachers


    Advanced customization China has no right to speak


    For China's advanced customization, the famous designer Liu Yang has such an account: like the movie "breakfast of Tiffany", Hepburn sits outside Tiffany's shop and looks at the world through the window.

    Though near and seemingly accessible, the thin layer of glass, which is separated by the middle, represents a long desire.


    For many designers, advanced customization seems very simple, but the real meaning of advanced customization is a very long process of persistence.

    In his eyes, the biggest challenge of China's advanced customization is not technology or fabric, but China's right to speak without advanced customization.

    Advanced customization is still dominated by the West. Most consumers have the mentality of "Chongyang". The elements, concepts and styles that are popular in western high customization are the hottest in the world, and China's advanced customization is silent in this respect.

    He predicts that in the next 10 years, China's advanced customization will become better and better and begin to have the right to speak.

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