Zhang Sifeng, The First Man In Leather Design: Design Is A Way Of Life.
The term "the first person of Chinese leather design" implies the origin of the costume design major of Academy of Fine Arts. Zhang Si Feng Among the local designers, there is no doubt that they are very commercial.
"There is no alternative but to innovate."
In today's global economic integration, the American economy sneezes, causing the world's economic colds, foreign trade exports blocked, business costs rising, RMB appreciation, exchange rate fluctuations and other factors, causing difficulties for domestic enterprises. Many bosses say that it is very difficult to make leather goods this year, which is difficult to meet in thirty years.
Zhang Sifeng said that these are the same things that everyone is facing. No one wants to run away. If they want to survive and develop, they have no choice but to innovate.
In fact, Haining is China. Leather Market The leading region and the leather specialized production base, although the regional brand is widely known, but there are few genuine leather brands, and there is still a gap between the top leather brands in the world.
One of the reasons for this is that from the design point of view, the industry knows that the design atmosphere in Haining is not very strong, and the real designers are rare. On the contrary, the phenomenon of plagiarism is very bad. For example, combining the styles of two or three clothes together into one piece and then putting them on a trademark, this directly leads to frequent homogenization and seriously disrupts the market order. Just imagine that when the brand name is very different, the same skin style and the same style will make you buy expensive or cheap. The answer is clear.
Back in history, in the early 80s, snow leopard was used as a leather garment in Haining. Bellwether A large number of leather enterprises have sprung up to the market. At that time, they were in the seller's market, and the supply of leather products was in short supply. When the craziest time came, there were five thousand or six thousand leather enterprises, but only half of them could be sustained. Because there are not many enterprises with real design and R & D capability, and design is the key factor of the enterprise. In order to survive and save costs, most enterprises rely on copying or plagiarism. That is, because of the existence of these rogue enterprises, some enterprises that really want to create brand have fallen into a very awkward situation. As Zhang Sifeng said, love and hate, love is recognized by peers, hate is hate it, do not argue, confuse the public.
So the market is rotten. This is a very luxuriant luxury, but it can not afford the price and even pay for it. This is a sad thing to say. Enterprises also do not have confidence. To eliminate this embarrassment, the government and associations must advise and guide, and enterprises themselves should strengthen their sense of innovation.
In today's troubled times, companies are also addicted to yesterday's dream. They want to get something for nothing. They are just waiting to die. Zhang Sifeng stressed that Italy can survive. Why can't we have no choice but to innovate.
Vigorously advocate "style design"
Perhaps in the eyes of ordinary people, there is no obvious concept of designer street. As long as you draw the drawings and sign your name, this is your work. Zhang Sifeng's simple way of design is simply changing the cuffs, adding a pocket, or trimming the edges, not designing, at least not becoming "style design". The style design is not the same as "style design".
99 years ago, the leather was still on the stiff stiff style of the orthodox system, and the leather was not washable. Zhang Sifeng suddenly thought of it and reversed thinking. He wanted to develop a washable leather garment. After several failures, with the joint efforts of the chemical engineers, he finally developed the water washed leather garment. The style of the fur coat is different from before, breaking the straight lines of straight, straight and straight plates, and presenting a very casual and fashionable curve style with rich wrinkles and texture. From the beginning of the market uncertainty to the beginning of 2000, until the 02 and 03 years of hot market, people's recognition of wash skin has been deeply rooted in the hearts of the people. Zhang Sifeng is still proud of this, but he thinks he has only made some suggestions for the style of leather design.
In style design, Zhang Sifeng did not indulge in the achievements of the moment, but constantly innovating. Last year, I participated in the leather exhibition series of "Beijing Hangzhou Grand Canal, Haining fashion wind". The leather products were dissolved in oil painting elements, reflecting the style of permeation, heavy and European style. This year, skin is used as a cloth to melt into the technology elements. He said that the future fashion design style tends to be more diversified. "Not wearing leather goods as leather goods" is another style deduction. Unlike last year, materials tend to be light and thin, and give people a sense of comfort in vision and touch.
Zhang Sifeng believes that Haining's leather design style is not clear, and is related to the design environment. For this reason, in 2005, Zhang Si Feng entered the Bund No. 18 in Shanghai, Shanghai has a large environment, and the economic level and consumption level rank among the highest in the country. There are large consumer groups of all ages, and fashionable men and women who know how to appreciate clothes and wear clothes, all these factors can stimulate and enhance the designer's design thinking. The environment is often the cradle of great designers. Haining needs to have such stylistic designers as Ji Cheng, Zhang Da, Marco, Yang Ziming, Xie Feng, Wang Yiyang and so on. It needs a process, the environment needs to be nurtured slowly, and the atmosphere needs to be slowly precipitated. With the environment in place, natural "nesting Phoenix", it is gratifying to note that the government, associations and professional markets are working hard to cultivate such an environment.
"The era of master era has begun". This trend can not be resisted. Under the premise of rapid development of productivity, the economy is developing rapidly, and the potential of designers can be brought into play by suitable platforms. Zhang Sifeng is a little excited to say that Hongkong, Shanghai and Beijing have produced many excellent designers, and Haining will also emerge slowly.
"Design is a way of life".
Zhang Sifeng said that he is now an enterprise operator, and the size of the company matters, and he pays close attention to the details, and is more willing to arrange it for the professional management team. He regards design as the main business and regards business as a sideline.
People who know how to design are better able to appreciate fashion and live smartly. When it comes to this, Zhang Sifeng especially talked about the difference between "people wearing clothes" and "clothes wearing people". "Clothes wear people" looks awkward, and "people wear clothes" really "people dress in one", dressed in temperament and taste. "I think of design as a way of life," Zhang said. "Maybe a few years later, someone may have forgotten that I am a boss, but remember that I was a designer. I hope my design can be recognized by some people. That's my pride.
Finally, I asked Zhang Sifeng what expectations he had for the future of Haining designers. Zhang Sifeng smiled and paid more attention to the details of life. It would often bring inspiration to itself, and many exhibitions were worth noting. But don't try to imitate it. Not everything else is good. It absorbs nutrients from nature, culture and history and transforms the elements it wants. This is also an encouragement for yourself.
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