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    The New York Times Praised Guo Pei: She Has A Great Dream Of Female Soldiers.

    2010/12/10 14:06:00 205

    Guo Pei Rose House Advanced Customization


    Thousands of Chinese people buy cars (including big cars) every week to build new buildings, so they can't see larks in Beijing.

    An hour ago

    Guo Pei

    And her husband, Cao Baojie, arrived.

    ROSE STUDIO

    Headquarters, their fashion company, is located in the north of Beijing.

    When their Mercedes stopped in the office building, the bright white light shone on the earth in October.

    The white bricks of office buildings are washed by time with the style of ancient architecture.

    Mr. Cao is not tall but very strong and handsome Taiwanese. He is also called Jack.

    Sitting beside the driver, he was kneeling on his knees. He turned and looked at him, sitting in the back row of his wife, and doing plation in Chinese and English.

    Guo Pei, when her country is not yet fashionable, designers have become her profession.

    He is still studying the posture and etiquette of Asians.

    Meticulous makeup highlights her big eyes and exquisite appearance. Besides, the customers he contacts are rich people and the figures in Beijing's political, media and social circles. These environmental factors do not diminished her gentle manners.

    As Mr. Cao said proudly, "Guo Pei is a very traditional woman - a perfect wife, a filial daughter and a competent mother. She cares more about her family than she gets."


    Nonetheless, it is learned that Beijing has its own

    Advanced customization

    No one can imagine such a fancy clothing store.

    The decoration of rose house is far beyond the Chinese standard.

    Along the side of the wall, there are several exhibits, including golden yellow and blue and yellow with oriental characteristics. Behind the exhibits are light colored cord - white lace extending to the ceiling.

    A gleaming staircase, like a staircase in a musical theater, is decorated with copper vines.

    At the bottom, a fat, sleepy snake coiled around a rectangular Satin sofa with panicles.

    Several assistants, working in front of a big white table, were almost drowned in the vases filled with red flowers.

    In the middle of the room is a silver chair with three plump breasts.


    This is what you saw when you entered the rose house from the parking lot.

    Without any preparation, the shocking and shocking aftershock is far greater than the shock of seeing the desert first and then seeing Las Vegas.


    There are three private rooms on the two floor. They are CCTV, the outstanding figures in the business world, the wives and daughters of political leaders.

    Mr. Cao Baojie said that many politicians' wives are customers here because they do not play any public role, so few Chinese know them.

    So even for Obama's clothes, there is no PR value here, but there is a certain relationship or connection here, which everyone knows.

    The three or four floor has 140 employees responsible for tailoring, sewing and finishing garments, and an independent studio for shoes and jewelry.


    Guo Pei, 43, started her clothing industry 13 years ago. It can be said that everything has changed since then.

    More and more people can afford luxury products, and shopping centers in Beijing are also crowded with streets and lanes.

    Nonetheless, the speed of speaking is very fast, and the little woman who likes to giggle is different. This is not unique because she makes clothes for VIP guests, or designs domestic clothes that are unique to cater for the large demand of the market, but because of the charm of her clothes displayed on T.


    Four years ago, she began to make fashion shows. His works were comparable to those of Paris fashion, and sometimes even surpassed the art of Paris fashion -- the skirt of a singular visual dimension, the shape of a bell, or the wave that resembles the surface of a shell on a cone-shaped body. Some clothes were inspired by children's clothing, and the proportion was quite unusual when applied to adults.

    Embroidery is widely used in clothing.

    The finer works in Paris will be eclipsed by her works. To cope with the increasing labor costs, European studios will reduce handcrafting more or less, which is the reason why the finesse of Paris works has been weakening.

    In China, the opposite is true.

    Guo Pei said that when she looked for manual embroidery in 1999, the only product people needed was slippers everywhere in Kennedy street.

    Today, her studio employs 300 employees.

    She needs to train them, but an indisputable fact is that her creative freedom is based on relatively cheap labor force.

    Just one piece of clothing is made of gold paneling, which costs 50000 working hours of hand embroidery.


    Guo Pei published her long cherished wish for the China Fashion Week in Beijing.

    The city was immersed in the upsurge of Olympic preparation, and European luxury brands also saw their market in China.

    McKinsey research found that young people with good jobs are the main force, and unlike those who have experienced the cultural revolution, for these young people, if a bag can show their affluence, it will be no problem to spend three times the monthly salary to buy this bag.

    Nevertheless, McKinsey says they are pragmatic rather than emotional buying.

    {page_break}


    For Guo Pei, however, these decisions are emotional.

    Guo Pei's fashion show usually lasts 35 minutes, and cites Chinese fairy tales. People can see a woman's desire for art in her fashion show video.

    Last November, her third clothing conference was held at the National Stadium in Asian Sports Village, with 2600 spectators. Guo Pei invited the legendary model Carmen Dell Orefice from New York.

    Dell Orefice was 78 years old, but agreed to wear a jewel made sheath, and a queen's Style Embroidered and Fur Trimmed shawl. The weight of these lines required two men to support. "Two boys hung behind their heels." when asked how the experience was, Dell Orefice said, "it's like asking me how I feel about Zefferelli."

    She compared Guo Pei to Charles James and said, "these pure beauty fills me with awe.

    She led a part of Chinese history across Mao Zedong and led to the future.


    Shortly after the fashion show, Nicola Formichetti, Lady Gaga stylist, contacted Guo Pei to borrow some clothes.

    This is a perfect match.

    No matter how people think of artists or designers, they share a great dream of a female soldier.

    When the four or five garments (together with the thick sole shoes) arrived in Las Vegas, Lady Gaga found that a 40 pound crystal bead decorated women's dress was impeccable, "all the clothes are beautifully packaged in silver boxes," Formichetti recalled.

    Lady Gaga put on these clothes, Formichetti said, "but wearing these clothes can't move at all, so they can't wear this dress on stage."


    "They are very nice, very polite people," Mr. Cao said when he approached Formichetti at Formichetti office. There was no sense that Guo Pei was not eager to make clothes for the most famous artists in the world.


    A military platoon leader and later Senior Minister of the State Housing Administration, his daughter, Kuo Pei, who was born in Beijing in 1967, is starting a cultural revolution.

    Her family is still in the capital. He studied in Beijing second light industrial school in 1982 and majored in fashion.

    Guo Pei said her teacher did not know what Europe was like in the middle of 80s, when Europe was the heyday of Azzedine Alaa and the beginning of John Galliano.

    But the lack of global information does not seem to be an obstacle.

    After secretly watching a wedding themed movie, she asked the teacher how to make a very big skirt.

    "He said," I don't know, but maybe you can find the answer in the costumes of the opera, "Guo Pei recalls." at that moment, I fell in love with a lot of things. "


    After graduating in 1986, she found a job of designing children's clothes.

    It's no problem for her to find a job.

    "The government will assign you work," Guo Pei said. At that time, she earned 65 yuan a month, which is equivalent to 10 dollars today.

    A year later, she entered a women's clothing company, Tianma, where she sticks to her ideas for the time being.

    Tianma is one of the first generation of private enterprises, and with the relaxation of the Communist Party's policy and the gradual disappearance of black "Mao style" uniforms in the ocean of color printing patterns, Guo Pei decides to sell 3% of the sales to the boss for each garment.

    She said she was very confident that women would buy the works she designed.

    The final sales volume reached one hundred million yuan (about fifteen million US dollars), but before that, she said with satisfaction, the boss asked to renegotiate the agreement.


    In 1997, Guo Pei set up the rose house with his own money.

    Now married to Jack, who owns his own fabric company in Taiwan, she decides to pursue her dream of custom clothes.

    Just as her dress show clothes are for a single purpose, "I want to have a space of my own," as she said, Guo Pei's evening dress is difficult to become an ordinary dress.

    Made of European fabrics, these clothes are beautiful and attractive, such as the pink taffeta dress embroidered with the red Chinese symbol (symbol of good fortune) worn by actor Li Bingbing at this year's Venice Film Festival.


    Guo Pei made clothes for many stars, including singer Can Tang and Yue Sun.

    Though she started making clothes for Beijing's rising social elite, she almost went bankrupt.

    She will draw a sketch for the customer, but when the first fitting is done, the woman will complain that this is not what she wants and ask for a 30% deposit.

    So she and Mr. Cao came up with a membership system that customers could buy for three different levels of clothing -- roughly 15000 euros, 33000 euros and 83000 euros.

    A dress worn by Li Bingbing in Venice costs about 5000 euros, and a traditional cheongsam with little embroidery is 2000 euros.

    A woman spends only 80000 euros on a wedding dress.

    As for her costume show, Guo Peiyao, who has 400 clients, said, "I don't even want to pay the price for these fashion shows."


    China's urban population is expected to reach one hundred million in 20 years, and people living in Chinese cities soon realize that shopping seems to be a new area to be explored.

    Linda Lin, who oversees the operation of Mara's 250 stores in China, says a typical young professional: "you don't have anywhere to go on weekends.

    So I had to go to the shopping mall.

    Lin has never heard of Guo Pei, but this is not surprising.

    No matter how good the relationship circle is, local designers will not have a good chance to develop in China's frenzied retail sector. In China's retail industry, Western brands have an advantage in their positioning and management.

    "People are going to choose LV, Chanel, Gucci," Angelica Cheung, Vogue editor in chief said.

    "Therefore, Chinese designers will no longer do their own things, and they will not be able to move forward."


    With the rich traditional culture and green free space, perhaps the farther away from the "new China", the easier it is to understand Guo Pei's achievements. She is very aware of the past and the past of nature, beauty and China.

    Wallace Chan (Chen Shiying), the master of jewelry in Hongkong, has a unified inner essence in his superb design. He believes that China needs more designers like his friend Guo Pei.

    He said, "only when there are so many designers here, will the Chinese people know what fashion is."

    Nicola Formichetti, first seen in Japan, was shocked by several works. He thought it was a woman who deserved attention. She was in her own world, a limited studio, which carefully cherished her artistic talent and great aspiration.


    "I always want to create something that is fashionable or not fashionable," Guo Pei said with a smile.

    "Therefore, after a garment is completed, it weighs 50 kilograms! Every work is no longer fashionable.

    It is a sculpture, an oil painting.

    I want to integrate everything into my clothes, "which may not be in line with the concept of Charles James" what is excellent, the correct proportion, considerate and sexy. "

    But please give her time.

    She only had a few years to make these clothes, and she had not even begun to improve her thoughts.

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