The Basic Structure Of The Collar And The Basic Pattern.

Basic structure and basic pattern details

　　首先，展平紙樣，描繪駁頭造型線，串口線延長過翻折線，與過頸側點的翻折線平行線相交于B點，描繪輪廓線；以翻折線為對稱軸，作B點的對稱點A；過A點向上作翻折線的平行線，再在此平行線上，從上平線向上取定量10厘米，過點作垂線，長3～4厘米(視領座高低及面料的特性而定，通常以領座高加0.5～1厘米)，標為C點，連接AC為領底線的輔助線，可見領底線曲弧度是由AC與翻折線延長相交的夾角所決定，此夾角大，領底線曲弧度就大，反之就小，它們是成正比關系；從A點向上測取前后領圈線的長度，過點向左作AC的垂線，為領中線，取領高6～7厘米。

Depict

The contour line is 1/3 centimeters below the bottom line, 0.5 centimeters in diameter, and the outer edge contour of the collar is drawn, and the intersection between the collar and the center line is vertical.

Replicate the structure of the collar and make the paper pattern of the collar base as the operating pattern of the change design of the collar structure.

On this pattern, a contrast line between the counterpoint and the fold line of the neck turning point is marked.

Secondly, the relationship between the curvature of the bottom line and the contour of the outer edge is generally between the 2.5-3 collar of the collar collar and the 3.5-4.5 height of the eversion. The difference is between 1-1.5 cm.

The basic structure of the collar is based on the height design of the general collar and the outer collar. The relationship between the collar line, the collar, the outline of the outer edge and the curve of the rear collar is shown in Figure three.

C points over the neck side to the back neck point D is equal to the collar line EF; AG is the upturn effect line, which is equal to the outer contour line AB.

In this way, the collar can be folded according to the design requirements, which is the principle of achieving the ideal folding effect - AB=AG.

some

It requires more ectropion turnover, that is, lapel collar, especially those used for clothing such as overcoats.

With the increase of ectropion, the difference between the height of the collar and the height of the collar is increased. The difference is usually more than 3 centimeters or even more, when the outer contour of the collar is lengthened.

As shown in Fig. four, we can see from this graph that the increase in the number of ectropion of the collar collar requires a corresponding increase in the length of the outer contour line to meet this change.

Analysis shows that the contour line of the collar is attached to the surface of the back and shoulders. With the increase of the height of the eversion, the contour line of the collar is moved downward, and the tear appears on the shoulder.

It can be seen that if the outer edge of the collar is cut and expanded, the contour line of the outer edge can be increased, and the curvature of the collar line will also increase.

As shown in Figure five.

In the example, the hallux valgus line, AG, increases with the distance from the back neck point to the neck side point, and the arc length increases accordingly.

In operation

The shear line is set in the middle. After the shear is expanded, the curvature of the collar is increased, and the BF of the middle line is also tilted, so that the contour of the outer edge of the collar is increased and AB=AG is satisfied.

In this way, we can find the basis of the curvature of the bottom line and the contour of the outer edge with the change of the turning amount.

In the specific design, as long as we accurately measure the AG length of the hallux valgus line and check the fitness relationship with the contour line of the collar, the relationship between the curve of the collar line and the contour line of the collar can be accurately handled through the operation of the pattern cutting and expanding.