The Third Chapter Of The Stereoscopic Cutting Lesson: The Stereoscopic Cutting Of Clothes.

Stereoscopic prototype Tailoring

(1) archetype is the most basic and simplest pattern. It is the foundation of all styles. The stereoscopic cutting prototype is the basis of the stereo cutting of the garment. The procedures are as follows:

1 the center line, chest line and datum line will be determined. cloth The same name line is placed on the stage and on the person's table. The pin is fixed on the person's table at the front center and the B.P point.

&nbsp2 pushes the excess amount below the bust line to B.P point, forming waist waist and fixing the waist area with pins, while determining the position of the side seam and fixing it.

&nbsp3 push the allowance above the chest line to the shoulder, and cut the neckline to eliminate the pulling force at the neckline. According to the basic line of the collar, shoulders and armhole, make some shadow lines on the cloth.

The operation of the &nbsp4 rear film is the same as that of the front film.

(two) prototype wide volume. Design There are two main ways:

1 pass method: before the operation, release a certain amount of loosening at the chest breadth and temporarily fix it with a pin.

&nbsp2 placement method: after the solid cutting is completed, add relaxation to the side seam directly.

&nbsp3 body correction: because the technical difficulty of the three-dimensional cutting is larger, the cutting part is difficult to guarantee accuracy. Therefore, for the symmetrical clothing, the right garment is often made, while the left garment is cut according to the right garment, so the amendment of the clothes is essential.

(1) remove the cloth from the table and put it on the platform and press it with an iron.
(2) re draw the neckline, armhole arc, side seam and shoulder seam with the drawing ruler.
(3) check whether the relevant parts are reasonable and trim the left garment according to the right garment.
(4) connecting the left and right clothes with hand needles and fixing them on the stage. The relevant parts, such as pockets and buttons, are cut according to the actual sample and placed in the corresponding parts to check whether the overall shape of the garment is perfect.

Two Draping Application of provinces

In the stereoscopic cutting of the prototype, we can see that the shape of the garment presents the basic state of two: loose and well formed. The loose expression is that the fabric and the human body are in an isolated state, forming a certain space, while the fit is the match between the fabric and the human body, showing a body fitted state. The key to the formation of this body position is the use of the province.

The concept and significance of 1 provinces

Province is a form of processing for the surplus part in clothing production. The origin of the province comes from the two-dimensional cloth placed on the three-dimensional human body. Because of the uneven and uneven size of the human body, the degree of looseness and the low degree of fitness, it determines that the fabric appears loose in many parts of the human body, and the disposal of these loose quantities in an intensive form forms the concept of province. The emergence of the province makes the garment modeling move from the traditional plane shape to the real sense of three-dimensional modeling.

Transfer and application of 2 provinces

The spanfer of the province is the expansion of the technical application of the provincial road, which makes the design of the body fitted to diversify. The principle of the provincial road spanfer in the three-dimensional cutting is actually following the principle of the bump ray, that is, the shifting of the provincial road with the bump as the center. For example, the design around the chest height can lead to numerous provincial roads, except for the most basic thoracolumbar provinces. Neckline Province The former center Province, the armpit province and so on, are all the forms of dealing with the remaining parts of the center around the point of bursting point, that is, the height of the chest. In addition, the scapular, buttocks and elbow provinces can follow the above principles and spanfer the provincial road.

3 several provincial stereotactic operations

(1) waist Province, which is the most basic form of the provincial form, spanfers all the surplus to the bottom of the chest.

(2) shoulder province + former center Province -- this is to divide all the surplus into two parts and spanfer them to the design position respectively, which is the same concept as the decomposition and spanfer of the province in the plane structure.

(3) herringbone Province - the provincial form is herringbone, hence its naming. Herringbone province is different from the symmetrical features of the above provinces. It is asymmetrical, and it also shows the characteristics of the province. Such provinces also include Y shape and T shape.

4 stereoscopic cutting in province and segmentation

Segmentation is another cutting technique after the province. When two provinces point to the chest height, we can connect these two provinces to form a dividing line. This is the structural form of the joint structure that is mentioned in the plane structure. The use of segmentation techniques adds a means of expression to the structural design of the fitting garment, and at the same time enriches the clothing design language.

(1) vertical segmentation -- combining shoulder provinces and thoracolumbar provinces to form a vertical line, such as the classic Princess line. In addition, the neckline and waist provinces, armhole provinces and waist provinces are vertically separated.

(2) horizontal segmentation is mainly a horizontal or approximate segmentation line, such as connecting the armhole and the front center to form a spanverse segmentation, spanferring the scapula to the armhole, and connecting the two provinces to form a horizontal segmentation of the rear piece.

(3) oblique segmentation, which is a kind of split between horizontal and vertical, and is an asymmetrical segmentation. For example, the shoulder joint of the right garment is connected with the side seam of the left garment to form an oblique dividing line across the garment.

(4) straight line segmentation and curve segmentation. In the design of garment knot segmentation, the linear form is mainly divided into two basic forms: straight line segmentation and curve segmentation, and the rest are variants based on this. Straight line segmentation is the basic form of segmentation, while curve segmentation is rich in segmentation design, but it should be noted that the greater the curvature, the greater the difficulty of the process.

(5) operation requirements -- no matter which way, they operate in the same way. First, the location of the segmentation is determined on the human platform and identified by the expression line, and then completed according to the operation method and steps of the stereotactic prototype.

Three in stereo cutting. Pleated Art

Plucking is a design language used in fashion design. It makes clothes appear more connotative and lively. Especially in the design of girls' clothing, plucking is a main form of expression. Pleats are divided into two basic forms: regular fold and free fold.

The regular fold of &nbsp1 is mainly manifested as a regularity between pleats and pleats, such as the size, spacing and length of the pleats are the same or similar. Regular pleats represent a mature and dignified, lively and steady style.

&nbsp2 free folds -- and Regular fold On the contrary, the free fold shows a randomness, showing a casual feeling in the size and spacing of the pleats. It reflects the lively, generous, relaxed and relaxed style of clothing.

&nbsp3 operation requirements -- because of the difference between stereotactic cutting and plane cutting can accurately calculate the number of materials used, so in the cloth cutting should first leave sufficient margin, and then according to the need to set the size of the fold, and use the pen to mark.