Fashion Custom: OR New Student?

Since 1858 "

In the face of successive "shrinking" high customization industries, people call it "sunset industry" in fashion circles.

Some people even say plainly: "advanced customization is a game that must be defeated". It is "yesterday's fashion".

Despite the diversity of opinions, the new season of Paris's advanced customization is just like the flowers on the ruins, showing the awesome beauty of the small world and the new heights of handicraft tradition.

Therefore, whether Gao Ding is a masterpiece or a new student is a great controversy.

Volume 1:

1, the connotation of "high price without market" is illusory.

In fact, not all designs that are exquisitely designed and exquisitely dressed can be called

It is said that at present, there are only a few hundred customers in the world with high customization. Under such circumstances, the high definition brands are just like a thousand armed forces to rush to the single timber bridge to win their favor at all costs.

To be precise, they are not afraid of market tests, but are pursuing a high position that is divorced from the masses.

Facts have proved that the great deification of the artistic details of Gao Ding fashion will only make it an extreme manifestation of the gap between the rich and the poor, but it can not completely depart from the essential line of economic development. When advanced customization becomes a noble symbol of "having no price and no market", all its connotation will become empty.

2, OR back to the end?

Over the past few years, the brand has shown different attitudes under the economic pressure.

In addition to the bankruptcy of Christian Lacroix, the luxury brands such as LV and Hermes, which are famous for their boxes, do not seem to be interested in this game. Chanel, Dior and Givenchy show a lot of fearlessness in their brands, such as "knowing mountains and tigers, and going to Hushan", while Thimister and AnneVal e rieHash show their own attitude.

On the ostentation, who is the red flower, who is the green leaf is also obvious.

From the gorgeous level of design to the lineup of the show guests, Dior and Chanel have been two flowers in the same high school fair, while Givenchy and Valentino have never been able to surpass the voice of Dior and Chanel despite their endless creativity.

In this case, is it necessary for fashion predators to retreat or stay in the end?

Wind and cloud: in the increasingly noble concept of today, young women, despite their wealth, will also be more inclined to brand name clothing than advanced custom fashion.

It has been said that the market for advanced customization has been gradually constrained by the female members of the chieftain family in Arabia and the elderly European rich, which makes their hopes of making profits even less.

On the other hand, the price of advanced uniform has reached a ridiculous level.

The market is like a stagnant water.

The high cost determines the high price and the high price makes the sales which are too small to be promoted. Under such vicious cycle, it is not impossible for the advanced customization to earn no money. At this time, can we still believe that the high degree of recovery is not a recession?

Second volumes: dream makes a reputation, OR is fragile?

2011 Paris's spring and summer advanced customization took twenty shows in three days, compared with seventeen in last season.

The increase of the number indicates that new brands have joined the advanced custom club. However, is the more prosperous scene now indicating that the trend of high customization has been rekindled?

In fact, it is more fragile than gorgeous.

首先，在現代消費環境的影響下，高級定制的超高定價，絕對能嚇得一眾新貴們豪爽不起來，一件日裝外套每件在15000美元到25000美元之間，刺繡晚裝的售價動輒5萬美元，過十萬美元的晚禮服比比皆是;其次，高級定制的設計多以概念化為主，設計師為了追求美感無所不用其極，導致實穿性比較差，雖然這些衣服都能夠為訂購者量身制作，改到滿意為止，但除非你擁有標準的模特身材，否則也很難穿出十分神韻;最重要的一點是，某些高級定制品牌將一年兩次的時裝周視作展示品牌魅力的秀場，而不在于招徠生意，有調查表明高級定制服裝業一年的銷售額不過兩三千萬美元，但幾乎每個品牌都宣稱每年的營業額都有可喜增加，其實運營高級定制系列的成本相當高，不少品牌都是以其他系列的盈余來補貼虧空。

It is true that the jargon of "making a word with dreams" is true.

Wind and cloud Chen's words: anyway, the fans of advanced customization still can't forget the gorgeous dream brought by DIOR, Chanel and other brands: Publicizing the bold and unrestrained flower color, exaggerated three-dimensional outline, and dreamlike cutting.

However, these expressions are purely for performance. Although some people say that the fifty John Galliano is still running out of the year, they still pour these elements every year. The color schemes are almost the same. The design of JEAN AULGAULTIER is both mixed and classic, and makes people look at the hay, but they are an indispensable part of the advanced custom show.

If one day they really left, how lonely it would be! {page_break}

Third volumes: survival OR destruction? So far away.

1:Christian Lacroix ending

Let's turn the clock back to 2009: in fashion, another trend in 2009 is probably "quit the trend."

A year ago, in May, ChristianLacroix appeared in the movie "sex and the city" with pride. It appeared on the streets of Manhattan with the heroine, and successfully entered the list of the 5 wedding dresses of Carrie.

A year later, on May and 28, Lacroix filed bankruptcy protection against the Paris commercial court.

2, goodbye, Pierre Cardan

30 years ago, when the Chinese made up their minds to open the window to see the world, the first thing to see was Pierre Cardan.

Now it is quickly forgotten by people.

Pierre Cardin is old.

When the 87 year old man eagerly sold the fashion empire named after his name, Pan Changhai, a Chinese businessman from Wenzhou, bought it at a price of 370 million days.

In this situation, those faithful "Pierre Cardan fans" only murmur: good bye, Pierre Cardan.

New records 1 and Chanel are not dead.

For media, the destruction of advanced customization is always a headline full of gimmicks.

The handicraft industry is on the decline, and the workshop is no longer a successor. No matter how the brand claims, there are less than 500 customers who regularly purchase $50 thousand packages worldwide.

All these terrible legends are facts.

But if you have the wisdom of KarlLagerfeld and the financial resources of Chanel, the above worry is much more important.

As Lagerfeld said, whether the advanced customization can keep pace with the times, the decision power is often limited to a few hands.

Even in the 1950s, which was known as the golden age of high customization, the important fashion houses were only three Dior, Chanel and Balenciaga. Today, Gaultier and Armani take the place of the latter.

New record 2, Dior art of making show

Back to Dior's show.

In a crimson sea of lights, JohnGalliano has the curtain of the latest red scarf.

As a snobbish City, Paris has a strict distinction between a uniform designer and a garment designer. The former is called "couturier", and the latter is called "styliste".

Nowadays, designers who can be known as "couturier" are less than one dozen.

Among them, there are only three people who can really match the past fashion masters: Galliano, Chanel Karl Lagerfeld and JeanPau lGaultier.

Galliano's show is always the most spectacular of all shows, but at the same time, it is the least suspense.

At the very moment before the music, you can see that the opening model will be Dior's new favorite advertising girl, KarlieKloss, who will wear a gorgeous skirt (this is a trapezoidal dress with red to black pition), with a heavy face and a variety of provocative gestures. Even the worst photographers can take the perfect picture, and the lights, angles and colors are all unassailable.

Through the repetition of the quarter and the stage effect comparable to Broadway, Dior's conference successfully created a very high degree of recognition, which is no match for the Spanish leader Almodovar.

Volume ending: OR, the key to new students is "advanced".

When it comes to advanced customization, we often get entangled in the two words of "customization": "set" - tailor made; "system" - Manual refining, but often ignore the more crucial attribute of the front -- "advanced".

The key is that "customization" and "advanced customization" are two different things.

This is well understood, just like the word "woman" and "good woman", although there is only one word, they differ widely.

"Customization" determines the basic nature. "Advanced" represents the level and the level of the realm.

As a result, since we are looking at the "tailor made fashion" of the fashion industry, rather than an ordinary tailor shop in the street, whether "advanced" or "advanced" is the only measure to decide whether to sing or reborn.