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The Three Design Genius Of Dior Dior Achievement

2011/5/30 9:07:00 64

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and Dior Homme has three origins. Designer One is Hedi Slimane, which is regarded as a myth. One is Kris Van Assche, a HS assistant. One is Gareth Pugh, who has just been graduated as the star of future design by the big media.

Hedi Slimane

Hedi has entered House of Dior since 2000 and has shown Solitaire in 01 years. Men's wear The pattern began to change. In the first few seasons, he still had some shadow in YSL. Later, in the 03 year, Luster was the beginning of his golden career. But his best show was basically 03, 04 years, and luster, strip and VOTC were the most popular ones. 05SS began to be stable, but it was also estimated to be one of the best selling quarter, because the jeans product line was elongated, and the most classic cowboy orange overdye was also born this quarter. Since then, there has been a downward trend in several quarters. After that, FW06 and SS07 have slightly risen. Of course, a designer can not do every season with surprise, even Galliano and McQueen can not do it. There are many kinds of arguments for his departure. HS's attitude is to continue to pursue what he wants to pursue.

Many fashionable people feel that he quit after FW07 is the right decision. No matter what disputes he has with LVMH, he is dead and gone. As a designer, as an artist, he has his attitude and perseverance. He chose to quit rather than compromise in the face of business. It is very appreciated, and MMM, who is also a designer. After that, the exhibition he did was obviously not very successful. Many people could not understand his artistic meaning. Compared with the pictures he took for Dazed&Confused and Prada, he could create more resonance. This is a balance. Business and art are always two directions, because the true art is small and the business is for the public.

Another thing I want to say is that although HS has made a huge contribution to the development of men's clothing, many fashion people think that everyone is flattering him. Many people have been infatuated with the design of Dior Homme, but this impulse has passed. Now there is only appreciation of design and admiration of designers. Just like many fashion people also admire Galliano's talent, McQueen's rebellion and Westwood's accent. Many people in the fashion circle have deified HS, reminiscent of Blizzard in the game world, and also deified by Asian players. Blizzard products must be a product. So, Blizzard is just a game maker with a lot of attitude and responsibility. It is obvious that they are perfect, and they have made a lot of mistakes. Many designers of WOW do not discuss the design problem. Hedi obviously also has not so satisfactory works. Many fashion people will only look at a dress and a dress, then comment on the good or bad. Not because it is designed by him, it must be a boutique. In fact, apart from the style of the show, people in the shop are not satisfied with those hoodies. This kind of younger guidance also makes LVMH headache.

In the evolution of Dior Homme from design brand to tide brand, a lot of people have been completely fashion victim, and also make people more aware of their own and design changes for many people. The design community needs genius, and these gifted people are leading everyone to move forward. Hedi is of course a genius. His aesthetic attachment to black and white makes us realize that simple expression of color can also bring infinite beauty. But he is also an ordinary person, a person who has the pursuit of his life, he needs space and time to achieve the goal he wants to achieve in life. From this point of view, he left the design circle many fashion people do not regret, you will only bless him.

Kris Van Assche

KVA is also a very talented person. He has some street culture influence in the expression of design, but after all, he is also a person who deconstructs the romanticism town. He has very own design details (though sometimes the details are a little over), he is also very sure about the design of shoes. After he entered Dior Homme as creative director, he was under tremendous pressure, both public opinion and sales pressure. The impact of Hedi on Dior Homme is far too far-reaching. Basically, we draw equal numbers between Hedi and Dior Homme. After taking over DH, we should abandon the past style and set up a new style, and try to ensure that sales are not damaged too seriously. If you want to walk out of the shadow of such a large Hedi, you can't do it by ordinary people. What you can do is a great talent. Obviously, KVA has disappointed you. KVA hasn't even touched the way in the four seasons. LVMH's sales report is also very ugly. It's also a matter of time to dismiss him. But people do not blame him. It is also because the clouds are too thick. The fashion design circle estimates that few people can get rid of the dark clouds. Anyway, in the past two years of Dior Homme, he should have learned a lot. If he leaves DH, it may be a relief for him, so that he can continue to concentrate on what he wants to do, and give him freedom like Hedi.

Gareth Pugh

Every time fashion develops to a bottleneck stage, there will be a fashion revolutionist. YSL is one, Tom Ford is one, Hedi Slimane is one. Now that the design inspiration of the men's clothing has been a little full of food, the new fashion star of Saint Martin's graduation appeared at a very high time, and was also given high expectations. It was only 06 years before he began to show his work in London Fashion week. In 09 years, he was invited to Paris to make a show. It was a two show between men and women. It also depends on the help of Rick Owens and LVMH. Because Delphine, the second largest shareholder of LVMH's daughter and group, waited until 9 in the evening to see his show. And LVMH asked him to replace KVA as the new creative director of Dior Homme, though it was gossip, but it was confirmed by many informants.

Many people appreciate Pugh's works and design aesthetics, and believe that if he goes to Dior Homme, he will do better than KVA. But for him, many fashion people think it's not a good thing. First of all, not long after he graduated, the industry experience was not enough, not to deny his talent and ability, but the position of creative director is not simply talent, but in Dior such a big fashion house, DH such a special brand, his comprehensive grasp ability, and even business / creative balance ability can meet the needs of DH is to be tested. Now he has too many auras on his head, so high expectations are not good for him.

Ugh what he differs from many designers is that he is not a historical reference designer, but a forward looking creative designer. He has a clear understanding of and direction for his aesthetic orientation and design pursuit, so his works will be so much attention and love. But entering a commercial brand like Dior Homme, there must be a great deal of compromise in his aesthetic and pursuit. Many people do not believe that LVMH will give him too much space to play what he wants to create, and there will be many restrictions. Though he has already said that he wants to start designing high wearable works, his avant-garde design concept is his biggest highlight and advantage. His work now gives people the impression that it is very distinctive and very personal. He can adjust his wearability of his design slowly with his brand. Now he jumps to Dior Homme, which is equivalent to the jumbo jumping in the hacker empire. It is very dangerous. If it fails to catch up, it will fall very badly.

Actually, it's useless to talk so much. He may have been signed by LVMH. If he really wants to work in Dior Homme, I hope he can control himself, not compromise with the business, find his balance point, and bring better and better works to everyone. I believe that no matter how he walks, it will bring us a revolution, just like Tom Ford and Hedi Slimane.