The "Chair Rush" Game In The Fashion World
This year, Europe is big.
Latest fashion
There was no sign of a wave of personnel changes in the house, and it became increasingly intense.
Numerous
Designer
They played the game of "robbing chairs".
The latest news is that Clare Waight Keller, the former creative director of Pringle of Scotland, has replaced Hannah MacGibbon as the new design director of Chlo.
Since the Paris fashion week in March, Christian Dior has sacked the star designer John Galliano, who is in the anti racist scandals scandal.
Luxury goods
The fashion house has repeatedly carried out "Amoy" for designers. Chlo is the latest brand to join the army.
Two weeks ago, the Paris High Court formally charged Galliano with the "blatant insult" and declared that the trial date was June 22nd.
Sarah Burton, the current design director of Alexander McQueen, has become the number one person to succeed John Galliano.
It is rumoured that the current design director of Alexander McQueen, who has designed the wedding dress for the new princess Kate Middleton in the UK and exploded the Sarah Burton overnight, is likely to highlight the encirclement, and is the top candidate for the replacement of John Galliano by the Bernard Arnault phase of the president of the LVMH group, the luxury goods giant.
At the same time, the industry also predicts that in the next few weeks or months, a series of new faces will emerge and become the new owners of the old fashions.
Balmain has announced that it will be replaced by the Olivier Rousteing, the second in command of its design team, in the replacement of Christophe Decarnin.
Brands like Gianfranco Ferr, Cacharel, Azzaro, Kenzo and Trussardi also say they are looking for new design leaders.
Dunhill's former designer, Kim Jones, will be in Louis Vuitton.
Even the men's wear design industry with relatively low mobility has been surging in recent days: Zegna's Alessandro Sartori is said to be hopping off to Berluti. The space left by him will be replaced by Paul Surridge, which was originally used for Jil Sander. Next month, Dunhill's former designer, Kim Jones, will take the lead.
Clare Waight Keller's successor, Pringle of Scotland's new helmsman Alistair Carr, from the design team of Balenciaga, is currently working on the latest vacation series.
And his first men's wear series will be next week's Milan men's week.
With the revival of business in the high fashion industry, the personnel storm has broken the long-term stability of the European fashion scene.
Jean-Jacques Picart, a fashion industry consultant, said: "this change has swept and shook the fashion industry.
Some brands are eager to weed out designers who can't bring customers into shops.
Paris Spring Department Store men and women wear sales manager, Tancr De De Lalun, said that the shuffle shuffle of the high fashion house is a regular change of periodicity, but this change caused the "Domino effect", thus amplifying its influence.
He said: "in the crisis, at least two or three years, no one will act rashly.
The designers kept in mind and waited for the storm.
No one wants to be a HeadBird, so everyone keeps silent and lives with his tail.
In the view of de Lalun, the return of the two digit growth rate of luxury products has changed the brand of big brands, no matter whether they are brand strategy or creative talents.
He added: "the change of consumers has caused designers to change.
Consumers want the brand to give them inspiration, not just propaganda, they want to see the future, not the past.
Robert Burke, chairman of Robert Burke Associates in New York, said that until all the vacancies were filled, the "chair rush" would be appeased.
At that time, it is likely that a few brands share a designer's embarrassment.
He said: "the brand's least desire is instability.
I wouldn't be surprised if big designer and unknown designer fight in the future.
De Lalun believes that the two word "prestige" is not the primary factor for brand designers.
Herm s uses Christophe Lemaire to replace Jean Paul Gaultier, and Thierry Mugler also uses S Bastien Bastien and Jean, which are the best examples.
As he said, "the market is recovering and the prospects for the fashion industry are very optimistic. This is a good time to inject vitality and develop new blueprint for the industry.
After this storm, there will be no major personnel changes within a few years.
You know, frequent changing of business will shake the confidence of fashion houses.
Ed Burstell, general manager of Liberty department store, also said: "designers," you sing me on the stage "is not a good thing.
Retailers will not vote for brands with frequent changes in their personnel. They always maintain a unified opinion with their customers, and customers always have their own preferences.
Look at the top fashion houses such as Burberry and Chanel, and they consistently stick to the established brand strategy.
Since the departure of Phoebe Philo from Chlo E in 2006, the influence of the brand has been weakening gradually.
Before Philo's deputy MacGibbon took office, Chlo e had tried the design team system and went through three fashion seasons under the leadership of Swedish designer Paulo Melim Andersson, all of which ended in failure.
Waight Keller has worked in many fashion houses during his career.
Waight Keller, regarded as a knitting genius, has spent six years helping Pringle complete the pformation from "Scotland knitting clothing company to world-class luxury brand".
Her first job was to design women's clothes for Calvin Klein; later, she was recruited by Ralph Lauren to be responsible for the design of the Purple Label men's wear series; later, she was also a senior designer in Gucci under the leadership of Tom Ford.
Paris fashion industry consultant Floriane de Saint Pierre points out that the high fashion house is currently facing the new situation arising from digital media and emerging markets.
She said: "the ability to innovate is as important as the ability to manage innovative talents.
In the past ten years, designers have a new name, "creative director".
Now, we need the chief creative officer who is quite similar to the CEO.
This will be a restructuring of the fashion industry. "
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