4000 Years Of Perfume
Paris World Expo become an independent industry
The first users of perfume were monks, kings, Pope and nobles.
According to legend, after Cleopatra, Crowe Bart Rao often used 15 odorous perfume and sesame oil to bathe, and even soaked her sails with perfume.
The emperor of Rome even used perfume for their horses, and their servants also emanated musk, oregano and Gan Song's fragrance.
In the spring and Autumn period of China, incense was popular, and Tang, song, Ming and Qing formed the fine flavor culture that the upper class and the Academy of fine arts respected. The aroma, tea fighting, flower arranging and hanging paintings were called "four kinds of affairs". They were the embodiment of the high interest and interest of the ancient fashion figures of leisure and elegance.
Today, the old perfume shop Floris in the United Kingdom, the Royal Royal brand of nearly 300 years, is the authorized supplier of Queen and Prince Welsh, and Prince Charles's favorite is one of the perfume called No.89.
Since 1508, every Pope in Florence has provided a perfume formula for the Pope's perfume factory.
Ancient perfume manufacturers are also very mysterious. They are monks, alchemists and chemists, and even the makers of poisons.
In the tenth Century ad, Arvesen, a chemist in Arabia, finally completed the dream of alchemists. In the experiment of rose, he invented the distillation method for extracting essential oils from flowers.
French queen Kathleen is the founder of French perfume culture. Her professional perfumer opened the first perfume company in Paris. The perfume shop also sold poison and sold it to men and women who were jealous.
Modern perfume production is the cobbler of Glass, a small town in the south of France.
The European Renaissance led Italy to become the center of perfume. In 1508, Florence's Dominican Convent established the oldest perfume factory in the world.
In 1533, Kathleen, the Pope's niece, married Henry, king of France, and became the French fashion.
Before and after seventeenth Century, Glass's cobblers began to cater to the needs of their wives. The scent gloves made of essence were very popular with the upper classes at that time.
Later, the cobbler simply broke away from the cattle skin made of gloves and made the essence for the fashionable ladies.
In 1614, Glass began to plant all kinds of spices and flowers.
And the tips of the perfumes that the cobbler groped for, including intellectual property, is a treasure of France.
The main ingredients of the formula are jasmine, roses and lavender.
It will take 3 months to extract these precious flavors, a total of 500 kilograms of flowers should be used, and 24 hours of pure alcohol added after three months.
This ancient purification technique continues to date, and it costs 60 thousand francs to extract 1 liters of jasmine essence.
In the industrial revolution, a large number of industries were discovered by the world.
In 1867, at the International Fair in Paris, France, perfume, as an industrial product, became an independent industry, spreading to the world and spreading to the public.
The discovery of "Song Xiang" is an exception to the special exhibition of unearthed relics in Palace of the Earth, Nanjing.
3 years ago, the arhat tower in Nanjing opened the live telecast of the iron letter: when the cover of the iron letter opened, the faint aroma came to the surface, and the archaeologists at the scene consciously covered their nose with their hands.
Later experts discovered that the "Song Xiang" that had been endless for thousands of years included sandalwood, aloes, frankincense, cloves and other precious plant spices.
Fragrance and civilization go together.
From Pyramid in Egypt, mosques in the Middle East, ancient villages in South America to Cyprus in the Mediterranean, archaeologists have discovered ancient flavor in Indian.
The smell of Mediterranean civilization, which was exhibited in 2007, came from the site of the Cyprus perfume workshop 4000 years ago.
The four ancient perfumes that archaeologists restored were named after the four ancient Greek goddesses, Hera and Athena.
There are only 200 "noses" in the world.
"Joy" =1.06 ten thousand Molly +48 beat roses.
Where does the fragrance come from?
The aroma of nature comes from plants, fruits, trees, and parts of animals.
The activity of geographical discoveries and other commercial activities has made the list of flavoring raw materials continue to expand: frankincense in southern Arabia and Somalia, LDL in the Middle East, myrrh in Ethiopia, patchouli and sandalwood in India, South America, Lingling fragrant bean, vanilla in Mexico, and sesame trees in South East Asia.
In 1868, the world's first synthetic perfume introduced its smell like fresh hay. After 20 years, it added musk, vanilla and violet.
Over the past 4000 years, the list of flavor ingredients has reached an astonishing 8000.
More than 100 years ago, flavors began experimenting with flavors.
At the end of the nineteenth Century, British perfume teacher Ajna Remel tried to divide all kinds of perfume into 18 categories: Amber flavor, wood flavor, leather flavor, smoke flavor, fruity flavor, sweet smelling, spicy, seafood flavor and metallic flavor, such as sandalwood, sandalwood and Chinese fir.
In the same period, Charles Piee, another perfume teacher, believed that the arrangement of perfume should have its own order as the tone of music. He tried to use the corresponding scale to classify perfume, but this method had not been successfully promoted.
In 1920, William Puo used 100 as the base to define the volatility of spices. The volatile flavor types such as peppermint, bergamot and Mimosa were among the top few.
Long lasting amber, Rosa, oaks, frankincense, sandalwood, vetiver and patchouli are among the list.
Over the past 100 years, the outbreak of the two world wars and the information revolution has made people sniff out the feeling of the times from perfume, including stability, avant-garde, rebellion, nostalgia, ostentation and retro.
The combination of 8000 flavors and their different dosage is a great test for the fragrance technician.
The French name for a fragrance is called Nez, meaning nose.
To be a perfumer, the prerequisite is to smell out 5000 natural or artificial flavors.
In order to maintain the sensitivity of olfaction, they can not smoke or drink, nor can they eat spicy food.
At present, there are no more than 200 people in the world.
"Noses" do not work for more than 3 hours a day. They experience hundreds of fragrances, looking for the effect of a fragrance on another flavor, how to make one flavor obvious, or to ensure that one material does not cover another effect.
It takes two years to design a new perfume.
And the ingredients, most perfume includes 50-100 ingredients, some more, and 200 species are also common.
Giorgio Beverly's "wing" brand perfume has 621 ingredients.
Another "red" has nearly 700 kinds.
In addition, precious perfume is known as "liquid diamond".
Among them, "Joy" was launched by Paris fashion designer Shang Ba Du, with an ounce of $230.
It is said that one ounce of "joy" is made from 10 thousand and 600 jasmines and 48 dozen roses.
Crossing history to eternity
Private perfume is popular.
There are more than 1000 kinds of perfume made by human beings.
Perfume brings us through historical events.
The Franco German war and the ancient dragon water.
In 1709, Italian Cologne John Maria Farina used clove oil, vanilla, rosemary, cardamom, lavender, alcohol and lemon juice in Cologne, Germany, to make a magic liquid which is fragrant and fragrant. This is Cologne.
But this perfume was once called "Cologne water", because the winning French Frenchman captured the name of "Cologne and Cologne" when he questioned German prisoners of war.
The French Revolution and the gallows of hanging.
Before the French Revolution, the court was permeated with luxury.
At that time, perfume was considered to relieve fatigue, relax nerves and treat diseases.
Louis's sixteen queen Mary Antoinette especially likes a kind of perfume with Viola and rose as the main raw material, and uses this perfume to bathe.
Later, Mary Antoinette was hanged during the French Revolution, and the perfume was named "the essence of hanging."
Napoleon and mint perfume.
Napoleon was a perfume fan. When he was defeated and exiled to the island, perfume was used to make Mint perfume, which became the future perfume.
World War I and NO.5.
After the first World War, the European female population was more than two million of that of the male population, and women began to move towards the society. With the expansion of women's social activities, women began to use different fragrances on different occasions.
French fashion master Chanel created the world's first perfume ChanelNO.5 added to acetaldehyde.
This classic perfume, with its elegant fragrance, reflects the self-reliance and rational spirit of women in the new era, and makes the women in professional clothes solemn and charming.
The Second World War and perfume letters.
The second world war also brought women into nightmares. American women bought perfume for the relatives who went to the front line, hoping for the fragrance of the letters ahead, bringing their own feelings.
After the war, the perfume industry developed rapidly, and the fresh flowers and fragrances gave the affectionate consolation to those suffering from war.
Perfume such as "flying with wings" and "miss Dior" really made the postwar women reappear.
The perfume of the novel, the smell of women, the dream of bridges, and so on, all use perfume to tell the feelings of human beings.
When the movie "Lavender" was shown in Hongkong, there was a machine that could smell the fragrance in the cinema. With the advance of the plot, roses, jasmine and lavender scent would float away with the picture, trying to make people really smell the love.
Today, private perfume as a personalized existence began to emerge.
Jennifer Lopes, Celion Dion, Kate Moss, Harry Berry and so on have all found their exclusive perfume.
It is said that the special flavor of Jennifer Lopes is the smell of the baby's head, which is similar to the candles made by the red fruit tree clusters in her home, while Mariah Carey's exclusive perfume, which opens the cap, is the breath of Italy's Cape Island.
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