"Light Fashion" From The Perspective Of Cultural Cognition

Culture is

In the process of pformation, China's clothing industry has 3 "specious" concepts in culture, and is directly related to the concept of "light fashion".

I may not be able to speak clearly about these problems, but I am looking forward to asking for a wider range of questions and giving rise to more discussions.

Is culture a vassal of the clothing industry or a personality soul?

In recent years, the industry has been exploring the development trend of the garment industry from big to strong. It is undoubtedly necessary to have a leading technology, strong brand, strong talents and sustainable development.

However, clothing culture, consumption channels and national consumption capacity should have the same strong position as the "four strong" in the apparel industry chain, but they are blurred to varying degrees.

Why do we need to "re recognize"?

Because the cognition of the cultural character of garment industry is the premise of pformation and upgrading and mode pformation.

We used a costume culture revolution to get the recognition of the personality of the garment industry.

During the 10 years of 1980s, China's clothing industry, along with the ideological liberation movement, consciously and unconsciously carried out a costume culture revolution.

This cultural revolution is not a rural encircling the city, but a city driving the countryside, starting from big cities like Beijing and Shanghai.

In 1979, Pierre Cardin came to China with French models. "Western scenery" aroused people's astonishment and thinking.

In 1985, general secretary Hu Yaobang called and took the lead in western style clothes, and appeared the "national clothing fever".

In October 1986, the China fashion research and design center and the Chinese clothing magazine published the first fashion trend of Chinese clothing in Beijing, which aroused strong repercussions. Overseas media satire China: "Khrushchev is not saying that two Chinese people wear a pair of trousers, how did they suddenly announce the fashion trend?"

I recall that in the book "big trend" that swept the world, only two mentioned China, one is Deng Xiaoping and two is the fashion trend.

Subsequently, all over the country, the cultural activities of clothing and clothing came forth one after another, and promoted the unprecedented great situation of "workers, peasants, soldiers, learning businessmen, and drying clothes together".

In order not to stay on the surface of clothing, the clothing culture revolution is going deep, the China clothing research center and the Beijing Textile Industry Bureau jointly set up the project to conduct thematic research and obtained the results of "four contents": first, technical content accounted for 34%; two, art content accounted for 35%, three was aging content 15%, and four accounted for 16% of reputation.

Perhaps today, the "four content" has changed, but after all, it has taken the step of recognizing clothing from qualitative to quantitative.

This dress culture revolution won two fruits of victory.

First, we have recognized the cultural character of the garment industry, and found the development mechanism or development mode which is dominated by clothing (today called the clothing industry chain).

Second, 1 billion of the people took an active part in the "Color Revolution" and replaced the "blue gray black" with multicolored colors.

The energy of this dress revolution should not be underestimated in the development of China's garment industry.

After winning two fruits of success, the Ministry of textile industry held a conference in March 1991 in Tianjin.

It was originally a meeting of the director of the two national clothing Research Institute, but it played a big brand of the Ministry of textile industry. It invited not only the heads of clothing companies all over the country, but also the directors of the Department of textile and technology that were in charge of science and technology.

At that meeting, Du Yuzhou, Vice Minister of the Ministry of textile industry and chairman of the China Textile Industry Association, made a keynote speech on "relying on scientific and technological progress, flourishing culture and art, and improving the overall quality of the clothing industry" at the meeting. Straighten out the clothing industry in metallurgy, steel and other industries, only highlight the commonalities of scientific and technological progress, while ignoring the tendency to highlight the industrial character of the culture and art, and take clothing as the leading factor to pmit and promote the overall development of the upstream textile industry.

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Of course, now look back, this clothing cultural revolution seems not to be thorough, mostly staying in "knowing it" - - the "art" that cognizant of clothing culture, and not yet cognizant of the "root" - the "root" of Chinese clothing culture.

In recent years, it is very necessary to discuss the development of clothing industry from a big and strong development, and a leading "four strong" idea of strong science and technology, strong brand, strong talent and strong sustainable development.

However, from the three basic links of the modern apparel industry chain, such as "making clothes, selling clothes, wearing clothes", clothing culture, consumption channels and national consumption ability should have the same strong position as the four strong in the apparel industry chain, but they are blurred to varying degrees.

However, fuzziness and even neglect their strong position, especially the cultural character of clothing industry, means that the industry lacks soul.

The prospect of an industry that lacks soul is unthinkable.

Cognition of Chinese cultural genes

Is it designed to play with stacking blocks or planting trees?

Many people in China's clothing design team have two kinds of diseases: the first superstitious Westerners, imitating western culture and even taking pride in themselves.

The second superstitious ancients simply equate Chinese elements with Chinese culture.

Nowadays, the "Chinese element" label is flying all over the sky. Many fashion designers can not resist the temptation and play a game of stacking Chinese elements.

The two disease, one root, is missing the root of the Chinese cultural gene.

Have a look

Now, let us think about it. Over the past 30 years since the reform and opening up, can we find a masterpiece that is comparable to, or even more than, the "four represents" in the fruitful fruits of China's fashion design?

It may not have been discovered yet.

According to my observation, many people in China's clothing design team have two kinds of diseases: the first superstitious Westerners, in the open era, spent their eyes, lost their heads, imitated western culture and even took pride in themselves.

The second superstitious ancients like to equate Chinese elements with Chinese culture simply.

Nowadays, the "Chinese element" label is flying everywhere, filling the public opinion position, and passing through various fields. Many fashion designers can not resist the temptation and play a game of stacking Chinese elements.

The two disease, one root, is missing the root of the Chinese cultural gene.

Objectively speaking, imitation can not be excluded.

It is one of the ways to train creative ability from "cat painting cat" to "cat painting" and "what to draw".

"Making foreign things serve China" is one of our creative principles.

The problem is that many designers fall into the mire of European and American cultures. Although they are also mimicked, they are always Western faces without Chinese characteristics.

Playing Chinese elements can not kill a single stick.

The flowers of Chinese elements, which are colorful and colorful, are open to Chinese culture and can serve as guides for design inspiration.

As we all know, the art of dress always changes with the season.

But for thousands of years, there is always the same thing. It is the essence of the beautiful flowers, the essence of the broad and profound -- the Chinese culture gene.

If we are determined to create independent brand clothing with Chinese characteristics, we should inherit the Chinese culture gene just as we yellow people want to inherit the yellow skin gene.

Admittedly, hyping the Chinese elements and playing the heap of building blocks players can also pile up a good image, but a little careless, a touch down, because it has no roots.

If we can find the root of the Chinese cultural gene, then the Chinese culture, which is hung on our lips, will be "long and profound".

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So what is the gene of Chinese clothing culture?

My answer is three words: I don't know.

I can only roughly say that I feel the importance of Chinese culture's individuality genes, and can not find the harm it causes. We can see that we have found its bright prospects for development, so as to arouse more people to pursue it.

However, decoding the Chinese cultural gene code involves astronomy and humanities, natural science and social science. It is a huge cultural project and a big problem.

Therefore, I call on the Ministry of culture and the Ministry of industry and commerce to jointly establish a Chinese cultural gene research team.

We firmly believe that the right time to identify and inherit the Chinese culture individuality genes must be the day to gain the right to speak Chinese culture, and it must also be the day when China's brisk fashion apparel has really changed from strength to strength.

Cognition of fashion connotation

Is fashion wandering in painting or focusing on healthy life?

It's hard to define "brisk fashion". We will not get stuck in it for the time being.

The fast fashion clothing that I understand is supported by three piles: "practical value", "cultural soul" and "artistic image".

In fact, brisk fashion is not only a patent of the clothing industry, but also a major trend of all product development in the field of industrial consumer goods.

In recent years,

In May 23rd of this year, the "JEANSWEST building" gold brand was hung on the fourth comprehensive teaching building of Tsinghua University.

I have no intention of pestering the brand again. I just want to talk about the fashion industry.

Indeed, clothing can not be compared with "two bombs and one star", but the clothing industry is not so simple.

In 1980s, Tsinghua built the 863 computer integrated manufacturing (CIMS) center in China. We could create machine tools by clicking the mouse.

We have also approved the national science and Technology Commission to set up a clothing CIMS demonstration center. Up to now, more than 20 years have passed. It is still not possible to manufacture clothing with light point mouse. Some processes still need to be manually operated. This is still a worldwide problem.

It can be seen that soft cloth is harder to deal with than hard steel.

I wonder why Tsinghua should incorporate the central craft Academy of Fine Arts into its own territory, named Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts.

Why should Tsinghua set up an art and science research center of Tsinghua University with Li Zhengdao's theory that "science and art are two sides of a silver coin"?

I then want to ask, crafts, including clothing, are the fusion of "work" and "art", but the times have changed. What is "work" in twenty-first Century, what is "art", and how does "work" and "art" integrate?

I guess that Tsinghua's policy makers are far sighted and have seen quite a lot of disciplines ultimately in the sense of the age of products.

Fashion is a neutral concept.

At present, under the conditions of market economy, fashion looks dazzling in China, but in reality it is mixed up.

This is the concentrated expression of today's impetuous society kidnapping fashion neutral.

There are many reasons for this. There are many utilitarian and commercial hype.

Naturally, we should vigorously advocate the fashion products that are active, healthy, upward, colorful, rich in "work" and "art", that is, the integration of advanced technology and advanced culture, conforming to the basic value orientation of the national life style and serving the prevailing trend of civilization in a harmonious society.

Fashion is also a concept characterized by time.

The most striking feature of today's information age is high speed, which brings high pacing and high efficiency, and brings high tension to people's living conditions.

However, people can not stretch their nerves all the time, and live closely.

How to relax?

Each has its own tricks.

We advocate to relax ourselves with light fashion, because light and fast entering the fashion field are not physical parameters, but the happiness index pursued by people's spiritual life.

Brisk fashion is not only a theoretical issue, but an indisputable reality.

China's clothing industry and its upstream textile industries include chemical fiber industry. A large number of intelligent scientific and technological workers and enterprises, such as Bosideng, Ruyi, Yi Fa, and exceptions, are pursuing a product of "thin yarn, thin fabric, light weight and many functions", and have made a lot of gratifying results.

Internationally, developed countries have long been locked in brisk and versatile products. This is the focus of competition in the future market. For example, the 9D high-grade nylon stockings used in the market now have to be imported from abroad.

Brisk is not only an irreversible development requirement of the times, but also an important symbol of the civilization of the times.

According to such a reality, I dare to put forward the concept of "brisk fashion". Although I know that it is still very thin and scattered, as long as it meets the development trend of today's era, it has operability and market demand.

As for theoretical problems, it will be better to continue to systematize with the continuous enrichment of social practice.

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It's hard to define "brisk fashion". We will not get stuck in it for the time being.

The fast fashion clothing that I understand is supported by three piles: "practical value", "cultural soul" and "artistic image".

In fact,