Independent Brand &Nbsp; Commercial Road

BNC designer brand store is celebrating the 1st anniversary celebration. Beijing's designer brand shop "Dong Liang" also opened the store to Shanghai. These buyers shop for finding new designers and building platforms. They are the adherence of China's fashion attitude and the witness of the arrival of China's independent design era.

"For BNC, finding new designers and providing them with a sales platform has always been the core value of BNC." In an interview with "First Financial Daily", Hong Huang's tone revealed a sense of mission -- in the hands of the buyer shop "BNC Brand New China", which is the theme of Chinese fashion designer brand, has opened 1st anniversary in September this year. Even as Hong Huang said, it is a "play" mentality to open this China. clothing Designer brand store, now, she has played a little way.

In November 2009, a shop that sold less than 20 square meters and specialized in selling Chinese designer brand goods quietly opened in five Hutong Hutong, Beijing. In July this year, "Liang Liang" opened a branch of a more than 200 square meter old villa on the road to Fumin, Shanghai, and became a topic of fashion for a while. All this implies that the power of China's local design is becoming increasingly turbulent.

Fast growing Chinese design

"The growth rate of Chinese designers over the past five years has been several times that of designers in Europe and America." Zhang Yu, editor in chief of the Chinese edition of Vogue, said in an interview with this newspaper. Recently, in the "Fashion Night Out" activity held by Shanghai Xintiandi fashion, the fashion devil who has always been concerned about local designers took the 10 designers including Uma Wang, Qiu Hao, Ji Cheng, Zhang Ningjia, Chen Xiang, Liao Xiaoling, Gao Xin, Jiang Qionger, Li Lin and Qiao to the stage to talk about the local market. fashion The rise of strength and constant reminder that these designers have their relatively mature business routes.

"I say this" fast "is not only the Chinese designers themselves, but also the rapid growth of the whole fashion environment. Designers alone can't clap their hands, they need more business platforms. Zhang Yu said. It is true that in the past 5 years of "fast fashion", Chinese local designers have created hundreds of brands. Among these, some brands have disappeared, and more brands are beginning to step out of their own business survival, and a Chinese fashion designer brand store like Hong Huang's "BNC Mint glutinous rice shallot" is one of the first commercial platforms that new brands need to climb.

Zhang Yu told reporters that in Europe, because the overall operation of the fashion industry is already quite mature, an independent designer wants to become famous. Its typical road is: to take part in the fashion competition, to open a studio with bonus, to wait for the time to mature, to look for patrons to support the show, to be among the senior buyers who are nowhere to be seen in the fashion week, and finally to put the works in the famous department store. In contrast, the road of commercialization of Chinese local designers is much more frustrable: the market needs scale efficiency rather than small workshop production, and few domestic buyers appear. The domestic fashion week, which entertained itself, is the source of the designer's debut.

So, in this seemingly lively and brutal environment, how should Chinese designers stabilize their commercialization steps? After years of efforts and gradually stable business lines designer He Yan told reporters that local designers must first identify their business models, what kind of team they need, what means to make profits and so on. In terms of retailing, He Yan believes that it is important for designers and teams to respond to the market, which is the key to profitability. If a designer judges that he is not competent for such a role at the moment, he needs to seek partners.

The symbiosis between designer and buyer shop

"At present, China has a very good soil, a large growing fashion consumer group, enthusiastic folk sponsorship institutions and people's fashionable lifestyle, all of which provide a good environment for designers to grow." Designer Uma Wang established its own brand as early as 2003. Nowadays, her brand has not only appeared in BNC, but also opened in many CBD stores in Shanghai. "Finding a platform like a designer brand store is a very important nutrient in this soil." Uma Wang added.

BNC is Hong Huang's dream after being editor in chief of the world city Ilook for many years. The support for Chinese original designers, besides reporting, is more practical to provide a platform for these talented designers to make more consumers contact and consume their works. Therefore, her position on BNC is "Chinese original design shop with contemporary Chinese consciousness".

"The biggest feature of our consumer group is to focus on design. There are many women entrepreneurs and executives, and many young people. Hong Huang told reporters, "Chinese designers also need to establish credibility among consumers and establish their own brand image. Consumers are strongly interested in Chinese design, but they do not necessarily have value recognition. "

"Buyers shop for designers, so designers can concentrate on them." Design And products. It's that simple. Even if the team of future designers grows to a sales channel that can be separated from a buyer's shop, such cooperation can continue. Because this is another way of existence outside the exclusive mode of franchised stores. " The designer, he Yan, analyzed the role of the buyer shop. As a designer who provides clothing for both BNC and "pillar", she is very much in favor of this model. "Although it will take some time to implement the purchase system, at least, everyone agrees with this cooperation mode and is working towards the same goal."

Have style, sell off

Hong Huang said, "the designer's works in my shop may not be acceptable to everyone, but I try to avoid personal feelings, and the most important thing is to be responsible to the consumers, so our only threshold is quality. Your things must be guaranteed to be of high quality, such as your shirt. Don't let people try to open the line once. The bags you sent do not have any problems. In Hong Huang's view, quality is an important juncture, because many things of designers are done in workshops, and the experience of mass production is insufficient. Designer He Yan also revealed in the interview that ensuring the quality of clothing after design is a very energy consuming problem for designers: "I want to have greater freedom in production and raw material procurement. Even if our output is very small, we can make high-quality and highly personalized products. "

At present, there are more than 150 designers who have signed contracts with BNC, and more than 70 designers have sold and sold in the shop, including clothing, home furnishing, accessories, jewelry and so on. Designer The works have their own distinct styles, ranging from tens of thousands to thousands of dollars, and consumers can always find things that are suitable for themselves and are different from others.

In Shanghai, the "pillars", in addition to the continuation of Beijing shop elegant, simple, but also integrated art, architecture, design, furniture and other elements and fashion combination possibilities. In addition to He Yan, Vega Zaishi Wang, Shangguan Zhe, Wang Chuqiao, Fan Ran and so on, he also sells Zhou Xiangyu's mainline men's clothing and Zhang Da's women's clothing series in Beijing.

Hong Huangceng concluded that well made clothes have two characteristics. First, the concept of design is distinct. "For example, Chen Ping's Pari Chen, at first glance, must be Chen Ping's stuff. We also have a Chinese designer in the United Kingdom. Her brand is called TBA, and her style is very distinct. As a result, she came first in the first month. The second point is that it is easy to wear. Hong Huang said that TBA's clothes are very suitable for a girl to wear, and the details of the design are applauded. The profile of UMA is very special, and the plate making is very different. But her size is very loose, so that people who are not perfect are comfortable to wear.

Exploring a more mature form

Hong Huang knows very well that setting up a buyer shop like BNC is definitely not going to make a fortune, at least for today. But managed well, feed oneself is no problem. " The store has found its way of existence, and has taken a firm foothold.

"BNC has always been the form of designer consignment, and will take a more unique" designer for BNC "series in the future. Hong Huang said that the ultimate goal of opening a shop is to give young designers a sales platform, so BNC did not choose designers, and refused to sell them on consignment. In this year, Chinese design as a business concept has become more popular than ever before. Many designers have opened their own stores. At this point, BNC will expand some new modes of cooperation.

Xiang Yaodong, the gold medal winner of ESMOD 2011 outstanding graduation work in Beijing, has become the first signing designer of BNC. The designer with the independent brand MOH will design "MOH for BNC" series products for BNC. In an interview with Hong Huang, this love will be full of praise. She said that cooperation with Xiang Yaodong will be a start, which will change the business model of BNC's original consignment products and discover more new designers.

BNC and "pillars", they are the adherence of China's fashion attitude and the witness of the arrival of China's independent design era. China's future brave warriors will sail from here.