Chinese And Western Tunic Suits Are Popular.

　　 Sun Zhongshan is the founder of the Chinese tunic suit.

The overthrow of the Qing Dynasty ended the autocratic monarchy that lasted for thousands of years in China, and the political significance of the revolution was self-evident. However, its cultural influence is more profound. China, which woke up from the old feudal dream, has embraced modern civilization since then.

The basic necessities of life are people's clothing, food and shelter. Looking back on the hundred years, we can see that since the revolution of 1911, great changes have taken place in the clothing, food and shelter of the Chinese people.

Now let's review the history and understand the influence of the revolution of 1911 in our clothing, food and shelter.

Chinese and Western tunic suits are popular.

The 1911 Revolution ended the inheritance of thousands of years, and has been abandoned for thousands of years.

In 1912, the provisional constitution of the Republic of China established the equality of the people. In accordance with this principle, the provisional Council discussed the dress code for men and women, with 3 chapters and 12 articles. It required men's ceremonial dress and long dress to be a suit and long gown.

Public opinion has different opinions on this dress code, so the rule has not been strictly implemented.

"Flags at half mast" Chinese dress The palace robe is cut off. Short coat The situation of the heel first melts, and the lotus hook is six inches long. In that era, the confusion of clothes was the portrayal of new and old alternation.

However, the contradiction between Chinese clothing and Western style clothing began to make people feel at a loss. It is in this situation that the Chinese and Western uniform suits become popular.

The name of the Chinese tunic is of course because of its founder, Mr. Sun Zhongshan. After the revolution of 1911, Mr. Sun Zhongshan was concerned about changing customs and habits as well as the establishment of the republican system. He felt that the suit was inconvenient to wear, while the Chinese costume was too old and tardiness, and he devoted himself to the creation of new clothes.

According to the memory of the old League members, Sun Zhongshan thought that "if you wear Western clothes, you need to use foreign materials, so we will spend our money to drain our gold and silver." Later, he put the style of a student costume in the overseas Chinese with a lapel and four pockets, which is the rudiment of the Chinese tunic suit.

Later, after many improvements, the civilian practical style finally came into being. Chinese tunic suit 。

The Chinese tunic suit also implies the three people's principles: four pockets, a symbol of "four dimensions of the country", and three cufflinks, which express "three people's principles". The idea of three people's principles established by Mr. Sun Zhongshan in establishing a democratic republican system has been fully reflected in clothing, and the Chinese tunic suit has become the symbol of "revolution" in the body space.

Sun Zhongshan took the lead in the Chinese tunic suit, the Chinese tunic suit became the symbol of revolution and fashion, and then the Chinese tunic suit became the unified uniform of the Nanjing national government.

It is because of the simplicity, beauty and practicality of the Chinese tunic suit that the Chinese national revolutionary army uniform has basically adopted the style of the Chinese tunic suit. During the second revolutionary civil war, the Red Army and the following eight Route Army, the New Fourth Army and the people's Liberation Army also wore the basic styles of the Chinese tunic suit.

After the founding of new China, the people of the whole nation expressed their love for the new era in the Chinese tunic suit. Therefore, the Chinese tunic suit became a landmark garment in New China, and was once recognized as the "national costume" of People's Republic of China in the world.

　 Change of eating concept spawned vegetable market

The traditional banquet system also appeared an improvement trend after the revolution of 1911.

Chinese people's affection is eaten. The traditional way of banquets is to have a shared meal system. When there are happy festivals, they will feast their guests, while a round table surface can best reflect the deep foundation of national psychology. {page_break}

But in the west, the popular way is to divide the food system and buffet. This way of eating, health and frugality are both aspects of social needs. For example, buffet is very convenient for personal emotional communication, and shows the western personality requirements.

After the founding of the Republic of China, due to the influence of Western food culture and the introduction of the buffet style of eating, Chinese knowledge circles have developed the style of improved banquet. According to the specifications of Chinese and Western banquets, the Chinese and Western banquet has been formed. The change of Chinese traditional banquet has become an irreversible trend.

A series of Western food etiquette, such as a servant's door, a waiter's seat, a table set, a tableware, a toothpick, a napkin and even a water supply to the sand, and a series of Western food etiquette, has also begun to be popular in Chinese cuisine.

In terms of diet content, after the Republic of China, the Chinese people discussed the specific issues such as the classification and function of food, the configuration of food, and the inspection of food hygiene.

The concept of social catering began to deviate from the mode of thrift and extravagance in agricultural society. In the past, vegetables and vegetables were commonly eaten, but the traditional meat and vegetable regulating habits of the 2nd, the eighth, the sixteen and the twenty third lunar month were the first to break down in Shanghai.

　　 Such a change of concept brings the emergence of vegetable market.

In Shanghai, the first modern comprehensive indoor vegetable market, "Hongkou triangle vegetable market", appeared in 1892. After the establishment of the Republic of China, vegetable farms sprang up like mushrooms. Before the war of resistance against Japan, there were 49 vegetable markets in Shanghai.

Take the Hongkou triangle vegetable farm as an example, in 20s and 30s twentieth Century, there was a clear division of sales in each layer: the bottom layer was mainly supplied with vegetables; the two layer mainly sold fish, canned food, food and agricultural products, etc. the three floor sold snacks. Because the vegetable market is located in Hongkou, it is a Japanese settlement area, and even "every day there are fresh fish and vegetables coming from Nagasaki".

　 Residential houses began to westernized, and trams were on the way.

In the past hundred years since 1911, the westernization and modernization of Chinese dwellings is a process from exterior to interior, from shallow to deep, from partial decoration, plane layout to modeling structure and material facilities to imitate western architecture.

In Beijing, there is a new trend of the so-called "courtyard house Europeanization", that is, preserving the traditional pattern of quadrangles, making some Westernization: simple glass windows instead of rhombohedral paste paper and silk, and complex points of foreign columns and arch ornament. Later, many courtyard houses were further modeled on the western pattern, such as kitchen, boiler room, catering room, dining room, including floors, wall panels, water chestnuts, chandeliers, and toilets, telephone and so on. In this way, we can not only preserve the traditional pattern of courtyard houses, but also absorb the advantages of western style houses.

In Shanghai, Shikumen architecture prevailed after the revolution of 1911. In 1920s, Shikumen occupied over 3/4 of the dwellings at that time. Shikumen is mostly two storey buildings with brick and wooden structures. Sloping roofs often have tiger windows, red brick exterior walls, traditional Chinese archway, the western style carved carved walls, and two balcony balconies. The overall layout adopts the European style.

Along with the modernization of residential houses, there is also the modernization of transportation. In March 5, 1908, the first tram line in Shanghai was officially opened to traffic. This is the earliest rail transit in Shanghai. The tram line, which originates from Shanghai to the general assembly of the Bund (today's East Guangdong Road, the Bund), is only 6.04 kilometers away, but it has written the legend of Shanghai's urban traffic. In May 6th of the same year, tramway 2 tramway was also formally operated in the French concession. The initial station was the sixteen shop. It extended to Xujiahui in July of the same year, with a total length of 8.5 km.

On the eve of the revolution of 1911, the French business tram had been in the area of old west gate to skew bridge in China, and was extended to the Dong Jia Dun area outside the Chinese boundary from the sixteen shop, which was rejected by the Chinese authorities.

In February 1913, the Shanghai China Merchants tramway company was set up to start the construction of the tram project. In August 11th of the same year, the first tram line of the Chinese businessman was officially opened to traffic. The starting station was Xiao Dongmen, and the terminal station was Gao Changmiao, with a total length of 4.97 km.

By the end of 1927, the number of tram lines in Shanghai reached 22, of which 11 were British businessmen, 7 were law firms and 4 were Chinese businessmen.

The tramway extended from the center of the city and the trolley on its trolley not only bring the road to Shanghai people, but also express the fast pace of urban life.

　　 [Shanghai imprint]

As the earliest international metropolis in China, Shanghai during the revolution of 1911 experienced tremendous changes in the aspects of clothing, food and housing. Thousands of years of feudal ritual shackles were broken, and women's clothing showed a scene of blossom and contending. The most representative of this is the non modified cheongsam.

The style of cheongsam is constantly changing.

Cheongsam style changes through thousands of hands, under the influence of the times of change. From 1920s to the end of 40s, Chinese cheongsam was popular for more than 20 years.

Western style costumes have the greatest influence on cheongsam. At that time, the styles changed mainly in collar, sleeve and length.

The high collar and the collar are the more fashionable and fashionable. Even in the midsummer, the cheongsam, which is as thin as a cicada, must be accompanied by tall and stiff collar. Increasingly popular and low collar, the lower the collar, the more modern. When it is too low to be lower, it simply wears a cheongsam without collar.

The same is true of changes in sleeves. Sometimes they are long and long, sometimes short and short. Therefore, by 1930s, cheongsam was completely divorced from its original form and evolved into a new style with unique style, which not only kept Chinese national characteristics, but also absorbed the advantages of western dress, and was full of Chinese and Western flavor of the times.

　 The waist is getting narrower and narrower.

The cheongsam became a prominent symbol of Shanghai Culture in the great Shanghai gathered by ladies and gentlemen. On the old calendar of Shanghai, the cheongsam beauty is bright, exquisite, open and lively. At the same time, cheongsam has become more sophisticated and gorgeous, and the buttons and buttons are unique, and most of them are hand-made. The waist of the cheongsam is narrower and narrower. It is very close to the body. The whole body of the cheongsam is fully exposed. The green cloth Qipao was most popular among the female students in Shanghai at that time. It spread all over the country for a while, and almost became the typical dress of the new Chinese women in the late 1920s.

　　 [expert review]

Before the revolution of 1911, China had been under the rule of feudal autocracy. In 1644, the Qing Dynasty entered the Central Plains and ruled the Central Plains. The obscurant policy at that time closed the Chinese people's sense of thinking and killed the creative talents of the Chinese people.

It was not until the outbreak of the Opium War in 1840 that it stimulated the Chinese in a state of lethargy. The outbreak of the revolution of 1911 overthrew the feudal autocratic dictatorship, and the hundred years of Xinhai had led the ancient China to a modern threshold. From the perspective of social customs change, Western material civilization, such as electric lights, telegrams, telephones, electrical appliances, trains, cars... A large number of Western utensils, although they had been spread before the revolution of 1911, were mainly accepted and recognized by the vast majority of Chinese people in the hundred years of Xinhai. It changed the fashion of the late Qing Dynasty to a different path from tradition, that is, the evolution of custom no longer follows the traditional track, but develops towards a new trend of seeking novelty and changing. {page_break}

The advanced thing in western culture is also the wealth of the whole mankind. Why should we reject and exclude the outside world? The centenary of Xinhai is the result of learning, drawing, remolding and merging the western culture from all aspects of the Chinese nation. At the same time, it is also drawing lessons from the transformation of its traditional culture. The evolution of Cheongsam in Shanghai is evidenced. A series of changes in the Chinese people's necessities of life, production, transportation and so on will naturally cause every Chinese to ponder over many aspects of life pursuit and values and trigger a series of social changes. Therefore, we can say that in the past century, social life and changes in folk customs have been constantly developing and evolving according to the Chinese people's own living logic in the process of absorbing and abandoning them.

　　 Zhong Fulan (Professor of East China Normal University and President of Shanghai Folk Culture Association)