Bian Xiangyang: China's International Clothing Brand
The pnational force of the parallel conference of China clothing Convention: global resources planning and operation
Bian Xiangyang, professor and doctoral tutor of Donghua University
The development of our China clothing association in the past 20 years is also accompanied by the gradual entry of foreign brands into China. Until now, the international clothing brand is not a special mystery for many people. At the very least, we all have a lot of experience.
Once the international clothing brand was very mysterious in our eyes, now though it has a mysterious aura, we know more and more about it. In fact, the international clothing brand is not as great as we think. Why is it concerned about the international clothing brand in China? I have such an understanding that China is the biggest clothing processing country in the world. By twenty-first Century, our country has become the biggest potential market with the development of economy and the improvement of living standard.
At present, we are not only a production base and a consumer market in the eyes of international brands, but also become an increasingly important international brand financing channel in China. That is to say, international brands not only focus on the quantity of our production machines and the total volume of the market, but also feel that we Chinese are quite rich now, so we have better invest in them.
This will give us China.
Clothing industry
More opportunities and at the same time, with the rapid growth and maturity of our own local clothing brands, we are slowly thinking about how to get along better with international brands and better jointly expand the market.
Like Beijing and Shanghai, they have put forward the construction plan of the international clothing capital. During the whole construction process, we have given enough attention to the fashion industry dominated by clothing.
The most important point is that fashion has become an important part of many Chinese lifestyles.
From this point of view, international clothing brands have more and more space for development in China, so they compete to enter China and have better opportunities for Chinese clothing brands.
We can learn more from the observation of international clothing brands. Of course, there are successful experiences and lessons from failure.
Next, we make a summary of the international clothing brand, and see what aspects we should learn from.
What inspiration does the international clothing brand bring to us in the theme of China?
Generally speaking, the international clothing brands are following the principle of consistency and localization. In fact, they will see in the operation of China as a whole, not to copy Europe or Japan, or to make some improvements according to the Chinese people's consumption habits according to the particularity of the Chinese market.
Of course, these improvements for many of China's apparel industry people feel that many of them are not successful.
First of all, let's take a look at the distribution of international clothing brands in China:
From this type of distribution, we can see the overall market space of China's garment industry. What are the international and foreign brands in this space? For example, we can customize and make garments according to the standards of Western clothing industry. We can see that all the international clothing brands have been developed in traditional sense in China.
China has
Customize
The tradition of clothes was first introduced to our home by tailors. After modern business, we went to the store to make clothes. Moreover, China's new rich class also had strong requirements for this aspect.
However, the performance of international brands in this respect is almost zero, which will give China's clothing industry a great opportunity.
Of course, I talked with a shop in chair street, England, and I told them that it was good to set up shop in China. They couldn't say it, because most of you Chinese men didn't know.
Suit
What kinds of products do you have? Why do we need to come? We can see that we have a cognitive aspect of customization when we make a good order. We have some brands in China doing some customized business, and some of them are doing well.
Similarly, some designer brands began making customized women's clothing, such as rose house.
According to the type and habit of the tailor, we should pform it.
At the same time, China has a number of customized shops with high quality.
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If it is clothing, the advantage of the international clothing and clothing brand is very obvious. It is a brand of clothing that designers have to design and has a relatively high design content. They enter the Chinese market faster and larger in number, and there are not many brands that China really competes with now. It is not that we have no strength, and some women's clothing is doing well in advanced garments.
In addition to the advanced garments, there is also a common garment. This fact is that foreign brands are basically unable to compete with our local brands. Because our local brands are relatively large, the scale of the Chinese market itself is relatively large, and there are differences between the markets. In this case, in fact, in the ordinary brand, what we can compete with now is the fast moving consumer goods that we are concerned about, like UNIQLO, which is a way of warehousing supermarkets. In this way, we compete with our brands in China.
Just now, we talked about the ordinary clothing brand. In fact, there are already Chinese enterprises entering the ordinary clothing brands. The international brands are more advantageous in pattern, but we can also see from the route of UNIQLO in China. In fact, the positioning of its brands and products is constantly adjusting. It is also different from that in Japan. At that time, in Japan, it was said to provide high-quality products to all the people in Japan.
But in China, can you see his shop and provide goods to all Chinese people? Definitely not.
We can sum up a general feature of the distribution of these brands, and find that in such a level of luxury goods, foreign brands are not involved in such a category of advanced customization, and then some of China's customized brands occupy a dominant position.
In the senior clothing brand international brand occupies a larger share, also has comparative advantage.
At the same time, from the sales point of view, their men's clothing sales are better than women's clothing, but women's clothing competition is more intense.
In the field of ordinary clothing, the market space of Chinese brands is relatively large, but competition between brands is still fierce among Chinese and foreign brands.
With regard to the strategy of international brand in China, we simply summarize it into several aspects: one is about its business strategy, the other is product strategy, and the three is sales strategy. In terms of business strategy, we can see that basically a direct operation, franchise and sales alliance are adopted in the form of two.
When they first entered China, they were basically franchised, or in the form of sales. As the market developed faster and faster, many brands abroad began to manage their own businesses.
So in the past year until now, many international brands that have done well in China are looking for the original franchisee, and I will pay for it and do it myself.
In China, the same is true. Operators and brands are bigger and bigger, and each has their own ideas. Since the brand name is so big, the popularity is so high, and now they are rich, they can do it by themselves, so some of these contradictions are very obvious in Chinese brand.
In terms of direct operation, the international market is doing more or is better than luxury goods. Of course, luxury goods have its own characteristics. The number of stores is relatively small, only forty or fifty, which can be controlled well by themselves. Plus, the prospect of China's luxury goods is better. So Dior, Armani and so on will set up their own sole proprietorship companies in China to do such things.
At present, a common way of running international brands into the Chinese market is franchising. After all, there are still many international brands that do not understand the Chinese market, or hope that the Chinese market can make the whole market bigger and get better profits.
In the market positioning strategy, we can see that the vast majority of international brands have finally become the so-called luxury sector, for example, Coach is not a luxury in many European minds, but it is developing very fast in China, and even now there is no new carriage logo.
In the terminal market, in fact, China's consumer groups are mainly middle class families and young white-collar workers. In such a market, ZARA and H&M, famous for their low price and fast fashion in the west, use their international influence. At present, they attract a large number of young white collar workers in China, and even affect our fashion consumption outlook.
In the low-end market, we now see popular uniforms such as UNIQLO as a major group.
Because China's current consumption of clothing is different from that of fashion, the location of international clothing brands in China is different from that of other countries, such as H&M is very large in foreign countries, but it has become a fashionable mid end consumer product in China.
In terms of product strategy, the international clothing brand in China is mainly reflected in the design, production and planning, or a slogan. In fact, the real global unified design is not feasible in China.
So a lot of FMCG brands will focus on the style of the Chinese market, such as H&M has a sales design team under the guidance of the global design plan to make it more in line with China's needs.
In addition to strengthening the competitive ability in the Chinese market, China's popular brand design still needs to be noticed.
Other international clothing brands are also suitable for Chinese people to wear.
This is a problem encountered by foreign brands in China. Last night we watched the 20th anniversary party. There was a shadow in the middle of it, that is, Pierre Cardin. The influence on China is not only to bring western brands, nor to sell French clothes to China, but to investigate what the shape of Chinese men is like, and then to modify their shape. Pierre Cardin's success in China is not only in the early days of China's reform and opening up, but it is suitable for Chinese men.
The production of French products is considered to be a symbol of fashion. It considers Italy as the quality of products, which is similar to that of the British in the early days of the revolution.
The high-end luxury goods such as France and Italy are basically made in Europe. Some of them are made locally. Some of them are sent to Spain and Portugal to manufacture. The entry-level manufacturing is not avoided in China. 80% of Coach's whole ball bags are made in Dongguan.
Ordinary brands take advantage of the advantages made in China to do business in China.
Of course, some brands use Chinese made as a means of marketing, for example, ZARA in China, to his store to see, a lot of things are made in Argentina and then sold to China, in fact, those things can be made in China, he may tell you that the fact is the fact of the global supply chain, in fact, it is also a sign made abroad that it is twice as expensive as Europe.
Foreign brands will certainly be subject to a series of restrictions on Chinese standards in China. In recent years, our quality inspection departments have been finding out that the international brand is not qualified and that thing is not up to standard, because they fail to meet China's standards. They complain about what is qualified in Europe and fail in China. Recently, they have heard many such comments.
I think this is a very normal thing, but according to Chinese standards, sometimes there will be some trouble, for example, we do suits, some European suits do not have the requirements of washing strength, and so on a series of problems.
At present, the sales of goods abroad are mainly shops and shops. Of course, they are more detailed and logical about the shops.
Not only is China's products, but foreign products, even luxury goods, have met the challenges of the Internet. Meanwhile, the Internet has given him great opportunities.
Luxury goods and international brands, compared to Chinese brands, I think another big advantage is that they use image strategy to create a psychological advantage. In fact, our psychological advantage is a fantasy. Through a brand association, he tells you a very interesting story, then adds very rich advertisements, then has very characteristic products, and then combines these things together to make a mirror effect, and then forms a more attractive image in consumer psychology.
And now many international giants also like to use some Chinese elements to create an emotional resonance. For example, PRADA did the Expo Edition Limited package last year.
Not only luxury goods, but also ordinary brands abroad have been improving their image in the middle end. He feels that this can avoid a competition from Chinese local brands.
At the same time, he made use of the limited cognition of Chinese consumers to foreign brands, which made it possible to enhance his brand image. There are two kinds of promotion: one is price and the other is style.
Of course, international brands will also have problems in China: one is the acceptance of Chinese people. Most international brands are not known to us. Nor are all international brands aware of China. This lack of knowledge has left room for international brand operation in China and may also be the root cause of failure.
The second is the dislocation between short-term interests and the establishment of long term assets of brands. These are entanglements, whether they need immediate profits or a long-term bonus.
In such a balancing process, there are actually a series of phenomena involving international brands in China.
The third is to build the reputation of Chinese consumers in terms of international reputation.
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Through the embodiment of international brand in China, I feel the following enlightenment:
The first is that Chinese brands need to exercise the overall view.
Second, the brand is actually a systematic operation, and is a systematic operation according to local conditions.
Third, the brand is a combination of art, technology and business management. Any aspect is not omnipotent. Only by combining these things together can the brand be built better.
It can be seen that international brand has become a very important force of China's fashion internationalization in China, and has gradually become a leader in the high-end market.
In the Chinese market layout, sales mode, market positioning, product strategy, sales strategy, image strategy and so on, the characteristics of globalization and localization have been formed.
I believe that this is the consensus of all our Chinese garment industry that we should expand our Chinese market through learning and cognition and become the strong international service industry finally.
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