An Outline Of The Clothing Of Xia Shang Zhou In Chinese Costume Culture
General clothing
1. mysterious ends
From heaven to man, you can dress for the country's dress. The princes sacrifice the ancestral temple also wears the Xuan end, the doctor, the scholar enters the temple in the morning, the eye sees the parents also to wear this kind of clothes, the Xuan end clothing sleeve and the clothes long are all 2.2 feet, the positive width is cutting, the black color, does not have the ornamentation, with its correct, the name is the Xuan end. The nobility of the princes is matched with the Xuan Guan (Wei Guan Guan) Su dress. The chief sergeant is also matched with the Su dress. The sergeant is equipped with Huang Shang, the corporal is matched with the former Xuan Huang Huang's clothes, and uses the black (black) belt to wear the color like the clothes. {page_break}
2. deep clothing
It is usually made of white cloth. The deep garment is a long garment that is connected with the coat. However, in order to inherit the traditional ideas of the last generation, the Confucianists cut the coat and the lower garment separately according to the rules, and then sew the growth clothes to show respect for the ancestral laws. There are 6 pieces in the next dress, two for each, and 12 for a total of 12 months. Some of these 12 are diagonal cutting, one with a broad head and a narrow narrow head is called "killing". On the right rear side of the dress, a slanted triangle is sewn through the slit cut piece, and is worn around the back waist. It is called "continuous hook hook".
This style is like the appearance of the "Qu Ju" robe unearthed from the Western Tomb of No. 1, Changsha, Mawangdui, Hunan, but the specific method of interpretation is not consistent with the book. According to the book "deep clothing", deep clothing is worn by kings, princes, Wen Chen, generals, and literati. In Confucian theory, the sleeves of the deep garment are round and regular, the collar is like a moment, the back is vertical like a rope, the balance of the hem is similar to the right, and it is in line with the five principles of regulation, moment, rope, power and balance. The common people wear it as a "lucky suit". Deep clothing prevailed during the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period.
3. Robe
The robe is also a long garment with a combination of coat and garment, but it has a sandwich, with an old cotton batten in the sandwich. If the sandwich is packed with new cotton wadding, it is called "cocoon". If it is filled with a poor quality head or a fine piece of hemp, it is called "Jiao". In Zhou Dai, the robe is a casual dress, not a dress. The soldiers of the army also wore gowns. "Poetry, Qin Feng, no clothes": "no clothes, and children." This is a description of the army of the Qin Dynasty in the winter of supply difficulties, and the cold shoulder of the tunic.
4..
A short jacket is shorter than a robe. If it is coarse material, it is called "Brown". Brown is a coarse cloth worn by ordinary people. "Poetry and wind": "no clothes, no brown, how to die."
5. fur coat
Our ancestors used to hide the cold is the animal skin, using animal skin for clothing has been hundreds of thousands of years of history. The original animal skins were not nitrifying, and the cortex was hard and smelly. Shang Zhou had not only mastered the methods of making leather, but also understood the nature of all kinds of skins. For example, the big son of the emperor uses black lamb to make the aristocrat wearing a Jinyi fox fur, "poem Qin Feng": "gentleman to stop, Jinyi fox fur." Fox fur is also valued for its white fox fur, followed by Huang Huqiu, green fox fur, tiger fur and raccoon dog fur, and again for wolf skin, dog skin and old sheep skin. {page_break}
Besides its softness and warmth, fox fur has the saying that "Foxes die in the grave". The emperor and princes used not to put on their sleeves. This kind of fur coat is worn outside. The emperor, the princes and the doctor are clothed in the outer garment. The following persons need no clothes. {page_break}
Fu shoe
In the Shang and Zhou dynasties, men and women wore the same shoes. In the Zhou Dynasty, the government set up "people" to manage the shoes of Wang and Hou. They had various forms of Chai, Hei, Su and Ge. They are single bottom and double bottom. It is a red or yellow stitch placed on the bottom of the tooth. This is the shoe and nose of the head and the head of the king. The king's double bottom shoes can be divided into three equal categories: the red and the upper, the white and the black. The Queen's double bottom shoes are on the top, green and red. The queen wore a single bottom dress when she wore a dress, clothes and clothes. Vegetarian shoes are made of white silk, and Ge shoes are made of kudzu. They are shoes worn in summer.
Military uniform
During the Shang and Zhou dynasties, the armed forces had used copper helmets and leather armor as equipment to defend their commanders and to carry out effective tactics. At present, there are Shang Dynasty bronze helmets, Zhou Dai bronze helmets and bronze breastplates. Zhou Dai has an official of "Si Jia" and is in charge of the production of Jia Yi. From "letter people" to supervise manufacturing. They are divided into three kinds: rhinoceros, armour, and armor. Rhinoceros is made of rhino leather. The rhinoceros is divided into square rows. The tapeplates are linked together to form a unit that is suitable for the width of the chest, back and shoulders. Each unit is called "one genus".
Then, the stacking of the first and second genera of the armour unit is worn into a coat with tapeplates. The rhinoceros is used in seven genera, that is, the length of the coat. (Bison) armor is stronger than rhinoceros beetle, and cuts larger than rhinoceros. The length of the coat is six genera. A nail is a thick leather that is even stronger than a leather belt. It is more difficult to cut, so the cut is bigger than the armour. The length of the coat is five. Kao Gong Ji says rhinoceros a hundred years of life, Jia Jia Shou two hundred years, and Jia Jia Shou three hundred years. Helmets were first made of leather. After the rise of bronze smelting technology, copper helmets and brass armour were connected by copper chips or copper rings. A piece of copper chip is called a piece of armor, and a copper ring is used to lock it. A coat can also be lacquered with black paint or red paint and other colors.
Another layer of silk floss in armor is called training armor, and warriors wearing armor are called Jiashi. A coat of various colors can also be worn outside the armor, called "Zhong Jia". From all kinds of distinctive colors of coat armor and flags, constitute a magnificent military array. Color not only helps to boost military prestige, encourages fighting spirit, but also facilitates identification of soldiers and officers and soldiers, and is conducive to military command. In addition, the top of the copper helmet in the Shang and Zhou dynasties tended to have plumage holes, which were often plugged with birds' feathers to symbolize bravery. Because the birds are fierce and aggressive.
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