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On The Changes Of Women'S Clothing In The Late Qing Dynasty And The Republic Of China

2012/2/10 10:58:00 38

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Dress Adornment

Fig. 1 Ci Xi's empress dowager

Figure 2 the imperial concubine of the Qing Dynasty

White butterfly Robe

the late Qing Dynasty

Women's wear

Continuation

Before 1911, in the Forbidden City of the late Qing Dynasty, the clothes of Ci Xi's empress dowager could represent the most luxurious form of women's clothing at the end of Qing Dynasty (Figure 1).

When she met Ci Xi for the first time, she was so luxurious.

Clothes & Accessories

Shocked: "(Ci Xi) wearing yellow Satin Robe, embroidered with large red peony, the crown is surrounded by beads of jade and jadeite jade, with a bead on the left, a Phoenix made of the most pure jade, and a shawl outside the embroidered robe.

The fishnet shaped shawl was made of 3500 large pearls of golden silk, round and smooth, and all the same color and size. The edge was decorated with emerald pendants and was decorated by two pure jade buttons.

In addition to the power of the "Buddha", other women in the late Qing Dynasty were mostly made of high-grade materials such as brocade, satin, silk and so on, and their decoration techniques were diverse and exquisite (Figure 2).

And because of the number of styles and color differences reflect the level.

The Royal Court of the Empress Dowager is divided into two types: winter and summer.

There are three kinds of winter clothing, two kinds of summer clothing, and the Royal costume of the prince from Fujin to the general Shu people of the kingdom of Feng, one of the winter clothing, one of the Xia Dynasty clothes; four of the ladies of the Imperial Palace, the general of the general of the grace of the people, and the Royal costume of the seven wives, the same as winter and summer.

In the late Qing Dynasty, the clothing of the nobles, especially the formal costumes, was sewn in accordance with the prescribed rules.

Take the gown as example: there are three styles of Imperial Palace empress, empress dowager, empress dowager, imperial empress dowager and imperial imperial concubine. They are all blue and stone, and they are woven with brocade or Zhijin silk.

The first one is the round neck collar, the back opening and the sleeveless vest.

Pleated from below the bust line.

Two lines of embroidery are embroidered before and after the chest line. The decoration below the bust line is divided into 4 layers: 1, 3, two layers, weaving embroidery respectively, 2 pieces before and after dragon, and the remaining two layers respectively embroidering and embroidering Wan Fu (BAT) Wan Shou (regiment birthday character), each layer is colored with clouds.

The second one is a sleeveless collar with a sleeveless collar, a back waist, and a long waistcoat under the waist. The front and back sides are woven and embroidered with one dragon, and the waist is woven and embroidered with 2 rows before and after the dragon. The next one is weaving and embroidering 8 dragons.

The lower part of the three decorative belts is decorated with Shoushan embroidery, Ping Shui Jiang teeth and so on.

The third is roughly the same as the first two, but the decoration style is vertical segmentation.

The left and right armpit long vest, the front and rear body each weaving embroidered Big Li dragon two mutually to play the Pearl.

The next one is the same as the colored clouds of the eight treasures Shoushan River and the Li Li River.

The imperial concubine of imperial concubines and the following ranks are roughly the same as this system, but because of their hierarchical differences, they are slightly different in ornamentation and color.

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Figure 3 the golden fish lotus pattern coat in Qing Dynasty

Fig. 4 the end of the Qing Dynasty

In the late Qing Dynasty, although women's clothes were not as magnificent and varied as those of the royal family, the shape of the costume was generally modeled on the palace, and they also attached great importance to the modification of details.

In the collar, cuffs, collar to the armpit and the pendulum, the hem is decorated with different colors, different crafts, different materials, lace and flower tapes.

They are mainly made of Liriodendron, shirts, shawl, gown, skirt, tunic and so on.

There are two kinds of Liriodendron with sleeves (sleeves longer than arms) and sleeve sleeves (shorter sleeves than arms).

The length and weight of the clothes also changed slightly at different times.

In the late Qing Dynasty, most women's gowns were painted with lace and decorated with lace.

The waistcoat is a sleeveless jacket. It has a single breasted, lute, lapel, big twist and herringbone.

It's mostly worn outside the garment (Figure 3), shirt and cheongsam.

There are weaving flowers, silk, embroidery and so on.

The content contains auspicious implications.

At the end of Qing Dynasty, ruby and multilayer rolled on the shoulders.

In addition to embroidery lace, there are many layers of lace, twisting gold satin border.

Some are decorated with Tassels and beads on the hem.

There is also a long waistcoat worn outside the robe in spring and autumn when it is cool, also known as gown (Figure 4).

This kind of shoulder joint is round neck, straight neck, straight body, sleeveless, left and right sides and back body open, both sides open to the armpit, and the upper part of the front chest and open top is decorated with a desired head.

The whole body is decorated with accessories.

Two there are two long bands under the armpit, with the length reaching to below knee.

Shirts, with round buttons, right buttons, twisting buttons, straight sleeves, flat sleeves, and no long open coat, usually have 5 buttons. The sleeves have two kinds of sleeves: half sleeves and half sleeves. The cuffs are decorated with cuffs, which are common casual clothes for women. Their decorations are made of embroidery, nears, Ping Jin and weaving flowers.

In the late Qing Dynasty, there were more and more ornaments, and often wore shirts on the shoulders.

The style of the shirt is the same as that of the shirt.

The coat is left and right up to the armpit, the top of the opening will be decorated with cloud heads, the ornamentation is more gorgeous, and the trimming of the side decoration is more exquisite.

The skirts of Qing Dynasty were mainly worn by Han women. The Manchu women usually wore no skirts except for dresses (Figure 5).

In the late Qing Dynasty, Han Manchu clothes exchanged with each other, and all the Han and Manchu women wore them.

In Qing Dynasty, there were pleated skirts, horse faced skirts, dry skirt, fish scale skirt, Phoenix Tail skirt, red dress, jade skirt, moon dress, ink flower skirt, coarse blue Ge dress, etc.

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Fig. 5 Qing Dynasty dresses

Fig. 6 cloud shoulder of ladies

Fig. 7 pattern of little coat in late Qing Dynasty

Generally speaking, women in the late Qing Dynasty had more black clothing, and usually were wrapped in layers, shirts, little coat, middle coat, big coat, and cloud shoulder vest. Women became a "clothes rack" under the pressure of this layer of clothes.

When Mrs. Wu met with her husband when studying abroad, it was still a decoration of the Qing dynasty women: "an antique little woven flower woven imitation Satin short coat (Figure 6), a large rounded hem; a long black silk crepe dress, with half a foot in the half edge of the lower edge and a few half of the width of a few colored egg lace."

This dense half - sized lace dress is exactly the characteristics of women's clothing at the end of the Qing Dynasty.

In addition, they also carry some accessories and accessories for auspicious purposes (Figure 7).

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Reform of women's clothing in the Republic of China

After the revolution of 1911, the crown clothes of Qing Dynasty were abandoned.

In July of the Republic of China, the men and women's gowns were announced by the senators.

The dress is made according to the announced system, long and knee, with a collar, a pair of buttons, a left and right ends and a lower end.

Under the horse skirt, the left and right tresses and the ends of the upper rim are used for the development of the Han nationality women's clothing in Qing Dynasty.

In the early years of the Republic of China, it appeared very quickly that "the flag was changed to the Han costume, the palace robe was cut into short clothes, the heel situation melted first, and the lotus hook was six inches long".

The phenomenon of wearing according to grade is gone, and the style and color of clothes are free to choose.

Most women wear skirts under skirts.

In the 20s of last century, women's clothing was the most popular dress under the dress. The tops were lined with shirts, jackets and vests, and the styles of the skirts were double skirts, Pipa laptops, single flaps, big skirts, straight lapel and oblique lapel.

Collar, sleeves, buttons, pendulum, multiple lace, embroidery, or exquisite buckle adorn it (Figure 8).

In the 30s of the last century, the mid size skirts were gradually eliminated, and skirts around skirts, trumpets and pleated skirts became popular.

Fig. 8 Embroidered Purse of Caragana in Qing Dynasty

Because of the new and old alternation of the times, women's clothes are often mixed with new and old clothes. They are dressed up to be dissatisfied with others, but they also make the styles of clothes diversified, and the fabrics and colors are more diversified.

The customs and customs of the Qing Dynasty were not yet completed.

Generally speaking, women's clothing in different regions or gradual changes or upheavals in the early years of the Republic of China are undeniable facts, and women of different strata usually have their own dress characteristics.

During this period, most of the girls wore skirts under their jackets, characterized by simplicity and elegance.

There are many changes in the corners, such as arc, right angle, fillet, etc., with different lace on collar, sleeve and collar.

In the "54" period, plain dress black skirt has become a typical costume, breaking through the taboo of traditional clothes.

In addition, the dress is also worn by some overseas students and literary and intellectual circles. It is characterized by the combination of the upper and lower skirts, the tightening of the waist, and the addition of loops to the waist.

At this time, women's clothing changed more appropriately to show the beauty of women's posture. The most famous one is the cheongsam's popularity.

Cheongsam came from the shirt and coat of the Qing Dynasty. In the late 20s, cheongsam gradually became popular among urban women. The waist was loose and the cuffs were wide and the length was to the feet, and they were lined with hemming.

In the 30s, the popularity of waist and cuff was shortened, and the length was shortened to nearly knee (Figure 9).

After the mid 30s, the cheongsam was lengthened, and the sides were opened with high slits. The waist was tight and tight. It fully showed the curvilinear beauty of the female body and increased the slender proportion of the human body visually.

The cheongsam is made of yarn, silk, satin, woolen cloth and cotton fabric.

Various forms can be changed into high collar, low collar, Western-style lapel, word shaped flat collar, square neck collar, round collar, U collar, V collar and so on.

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Fig. 9 buckle on clothing in late Qing Dynasty and early Republic of China

Women in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China wore men's clothing.

The first men dressed in men's clothing were part of revolutionary women like Qiu Jin. They pursued ideological emancipation, and the novelty of clothes was also the externalization of their inner spiritual aspirations.

The other part is the prostitute who leads the fashion trend.

At the same time, this is in line with the characteristics and requirements of women's participation in social work. There are formal trousers, uniforms, sportswear and work clothes.

In addition to such fashion pioneers, Chinese women in many areas still wear traditional wind jacket, sweeping skirt and a pair of horseshoe shoes.

Through the change of women's clothing in the Republic of China, we can see that women began to pursue freedom and equality, the era of personality liberation, and the historical position of women in traditional life and the great pformation of traditional values.

This means the beginning of the establishment of a new female role.

In addition, the changes of women's clothing in the late Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China had a certain impact on the modern Chinese women's fashion aesthetic concepts and the diversity and personalization of their dress, which provided an important reference and reference for modern women's costume design.