New Breakthroughs In China'S Integrated Spinning Technology Of Ultra-Thin Worsted Fabrics Of Cicada

When it comes to clothing as thin as a cicada, most of the fabrics that come first in mind are yarn and silk.

Do not want to, people continue to challenge the textile technology, so that once thick wool has the opportunity to pform into a lightweight fashion "beloved".

"Integrated spinning cicada wing yarn" jointly prepared by Shandong Nanshan Textile Garments Co., Ltd. and Xi'an Polytechnic University.

According to Pan Feng, director of the Nanshan worsted General Factory, the company has successfully spun more than Nm500/2 yarn with this technology, and has successfully developed fabrics weighing only 60g per square meter. The physical and wearing properties of the products have reached the national standard and superior quality requirements.

The single shirt made of this fabric weighs only 135g, and realizes the dream of silk and wool fabric as thin as cicada and lighter as smoke.

"135 grams of clothing" is achieved.

Host: what technologies should be developed for making such a lightweight silk fabric?

Pan Feng: we mainly start from five aspects: first, the selection and pretreatment of raw materials: wool and wool processing, and further refinement of silk fibers.

Followed by stripe dyeing: low temperature dyeing process using environment-friendly wool reactive dyes, all kinds of color fastness are higher than or meet the standard requirements, reducing the dyeing process strong damage to fiber.

Next is the spinning process: mainly by adjusting the design of the relevant main process parts, forming a new spinning technology including a compact spinning twist triangle area and two Siro Phil twisting areas.

The second is the fabric design and weaving process: from the super light and ultra-thin texture to the feel and color of silk wool, we finish the design of the integrated spinning silk cicada wing yarn ultra-thin worsted fabric.

Through the use of new high efficiency cationic slurry, the cold sizing technology of silk wool cicada yarn has been studied. The rigid rapier loom has been used for weaving at low tension and low speed.

Finally, after finishing process: after finishing the finishing process, the finishing work of wet and dry finishing process is finished. In particular, the flat width and high temperature dimension reduction technology is used to carry out the research on the dimension reduction process, so as to ensure that the wearing properties of the silk ultra-fine worsted fabric are all up to the requirements of the normal fabric.

Host:

Pan Feng: there are four main points in the innovation and advancement of this project, including low temperature reactive dyed wool dyeing technology: the innovative point belongs to the wool textile dyeing technology field. Through the comparison of ambient temperature and low temperature dyeing with environmental protection reactive dyes, a reasonable wool low temperature dyeing process has been developed. Under the conditions that all kinds of color fastness are higher than or meet the standard requirements, the dyeing process's strength damage to protein fiber is reduced, and the colored flowers produced by uneven coloring are effectively prevented.

Integrated spinning and weaving technology: integrated spinning and weaving technology has integrated the frontier technology of textile materials, equipment and technology. Creatively combining the spinning technology, compact spinning technology and Siro Phil spinning technology, it combines the advantages of the three spinning technologies, inventing the Siro Phil spinning technology and spinning the super high count yarn yarn.

One step yarn forming on the spinning frame without shortening and twisting process shortens the technological process, improves the production efficiency, ensures yarn strength, abrasion resistance and evenness, and improves the yarn production rate.

Rigid rapier weaving technology: this innovative point belongs to the field of textile engineering weaving technology. We adopt new high efficiency cationic slurry, use cold sizing technology to do sizing, select the multi - hole rigid rapier loom, use small tension and low speed, ensure the weft yarn wear is the smallest, and realize the weaving ability of high count ultra-thin fabric.

The weaving process is: warping, cross drawing, cross reed, upper shaft, amplitude modulation, weaving and machine.

Flat width high temperature retreat Technology: this innovative point belongs to the field of wool textile printing and dyeing technology. The purpose is to provide a flat width dewaxing method. This method can solve the problem of incomplete dissolution of polyvinyl alcohol, excessive wet expansion of fabrics, difficult to guarantee smooth surface, slippery waxy but not soft and rotten.

The specific method is to do the flat width continuous cooking of the grey fabric blended with raw wool and cotton and vinylon, then fold the fabric flat on the reel, store the reel for a certain time, repeat it alternately for several times, and repeat the steps of the flat width and the reel storage. After the last flat width is boiled, the reel will not be stored and the fabric will be dried directly to get the weave fabric.

Moderator: as an independent research and development project, what advantages does the technology have compared with similar technologies at home and abroad?

Liu Gangzhong: the key technology of this project, integrated spinning technology, is the first creation at home and abroad. Compared with the domestic spinning technology such as embedded technology, the number of spinning parts is higher, yarn structure and physical indicators are all up to the national standard.

From the data retrieved at home and abroad, our project is still in the leading position in the number of high count worsted yarn and the index of worsted fabric per square Mick weight.

Host:

Liu Gangzhong: the integrated spinning silk cicada wing gauze ultra-thin worsted fabric has been promoted through the brand clothing and garment market. It can meet the fabric demand of high-end brand clothing products, and its various physical and mechanical properties, color fastness, wearability and so on have all reached the requirements of daily use.

In the follow-up research process, we will continue to focus on the latest development of domestic and international materials technology, equipment technology, and process technology, and strive to achieve high and ultra-thin direction in wool worsted field, so as to realize the development of worsted ultra-thin fabric to multiple components and serialization.

Through a large number of experimental studies, we have successfully carried out industrial production and application, producing a total of 327 thousand and 500 meters of fabric, achieving a new production value of 131 million yuan, and increasing profits and taxes by 22 million 270 thousand yuan, and achieved good economic results.

Commissioned by the national wool textile product quality supervision and Inspection Center (Beijing), the finished fabric specifications, physical and mechanical properties and dyeing properties were tested respectively. The test results showed that all the indexes reached the leading level of the similar products' performance index at home and abroad.

Exploring a new mode of school enterprise alliance

Moderator: the Nanshan Xi'an Polytechnic University Wool Textile Research Institute, founded in April 2011, is a milestone in the cooperation between enterprises, universities and research institutes. What is the practical significance for the establishment of the Institute?

Pan Feng: we can carry out scientific research cooperation and research and development of new products through this platform. In promoting scientific research, we can effectively pform scientific and technological theories into economic benefits.

Relying on the Wool Textile Research Institute, we should intensify the integration of science and technology and improve the research and development level of high-end products, such as new materials, new processes and new functions, so as to further improve the R & D management system.

The sustainable development of enterprises needs a strong talent team to support. The research and teaching of schools can not do without the support of corresponding professional enterprises. The combination of enterprises and schools and related professional institutes is a good channel to enable students to understand the needs of enterprises and allow enterprises to pform their scientific research achievements.

The establishment of Nanshan Wool Textile Research Institute has enabled Nanshan's scientific and technological team to grow qualitatively, relying on the strong enterprise resource management ability of the company to pform the research achievements of the University's front-end, making it a strong driving force for the long-term development of the company.