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    Analysis Of Testing Method For Garment Joint Slippage

    2012/2/24 16:06:00 51

    Garment Testing Methods

    With the continuous improvement of people's requirements for quality of life, as the basic needs of daily life, consumers' requirements for clothing quality are getting higher and higher. The detection of clothing products has become a necessary part of quality control. In all kinds of testing items, seam slippage and seam strength are the key indicators for assessing clothing quality, because the quality of these indicators directly affects the durability of wearing. However, many product standards (such as FZ/T81006-2007 denim, FZ/T81007-2003 "single, clipped garments", GB/T14272-2002 "down garments", etc.) do not adequately describe the method of detecting the seam slippage items, especially in the aspects of the size of the gripper, the sampling position and the sample preparation. Therefore, this article is right. clothing The test method of seam slippage is analyzed and discussed.

    1 problems in the testing process


    1.1 the results of different clamping methods are different.


    A comparative test was carried out for a batch of shirts in industrial and commercial sampling according to GB/T2660-2008 "shirt". A total of 5 shirts were tested and different sizes of the gripper were shown in Figure 1.



    A) the size of the front and rear gripper holders is 3 inch 1 inch


     


    B) the front piece size is 1 inch x 1 inch, and the rear piece size is 3 inch * 1 inch.


    Fig. 1 holding the same specimen with different sizes of gripper.

    After testing, it was found that different sizes of gripper were used. test Under the conditions, the test data of the same sample are quite different. The test data are shown in Table 1.


                                                                    



        
            
                
                 Sample number


                
                
                 Both front and rear gripper sizes are all 3 inch X 1 inch
                 (effective clamping area is 3 inch X 1 inch )
                
                
                 The size of the front part of the gripper is 1 inch X 1 inch The rear size is 3 inch X 1 inch
                 (effective clamping area is 1 inch X 1 inch )
                
            
            
                
                 One
                
                
                 Five point six four
                
                
                 Six point one zero
                
            
            
                
                 Two
                
                
                 Three point seven four
                
                
                 Four point two six
                
            
            
                
                 Three
                
                
                 One point eight zero
                
                
                 Two point one two
                
            
            
                
                 Four
                
                
                 Two point five seven
                
                
                 Three point three six
                
            
            
                
                 Five
                
                
                 Four point four four
                
                
                 Six point zero two
                
            
        


    Table 1 test data for different sizes of gripper

    It is easy to see that the larger the size of the holder is, the smaller the sample opening value is, and the smaller the stress area of the specimen is, the larger the value of the slit will be.


    1.2 operability of sampling locations


    FZ/T81007, FZ/T81006, FZ/T81003, FZ/T81008, GB/T 2666 and other standards. The method of sampling the side seam of trousers is as follows: the 1/3 sides of the trousers are centered on the side seam. But for practical testing, for some shorts and trousers, the 1/3 sides are side seam perpendicular to the pocket or the side seam close to the waist of the trousers (as shown in the dotted line in Figure 2). Obviously, this sampling method is not conducive to collecting samples, and has a certain effect on the test results, which increases the error.



    Fig. 2 Sketch map of current shorts sample collection

    1.3 details of specimen preparation


    Collection according to the standards of clothing products sample The width should be 5 cm. However, if the specimen is not pretreated at the time of testing, it is very easy to appear sewing thread slippage during the drawing process (as shown in Figure 3). However, there is no standard for making sure that the sewing thread on both sides of the 5 cm width does not slip. From the test data of Table 2, it can be seen that different treatment methods have great influence on the accuracy of the test results.


         
    A) both sides of the sample are not pretreated B, and the two sides of the sample are pretreated and reinforced.
    Fig. 3 Schematic diagram of pretreatment contrast on both sides of sample


        
            
                
                 Sample number
                
                
                 No pretreatment on both sides.
                
                
                 Two sides reinforced by pretreatment
                
            
            
                
                 One
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 Five point six four
                
            
            
                
                 Two
                
                
                 Five point three two
                
                
                 Three point seven four
                
            
            
                
                 Three
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 One point eight zero
                
            
            
                
                 Four
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 Two point five seven
                
            
            
                
                 Five
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 Four point four four
                
            
        



        
            
                
                 Sample number
                
                
                 No pretreatment on both sides.
                
                
                 Two sides reinforced by pretreatment
                
            
            
                
                 One
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 Five point six four
                
            
            
                
                 Two
                
                
                 Five point three two
                
                
                 Three point seven four
                
            
            
                
                 Three
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 One point eight zero
                
            
            
                
                 Four
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 Two point five seven
                
            
            
                
                 Five
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 Four point four four
                
            
        



                                                                    

        
            
                
                 Sample number
                
                
                 No pretreatment on both sides.
                
                
                 Two sides reinforced by pretreatment
                
            
            
                
                 One
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 Five point six four
                
            
            
                
                 Two
                
                
                 Five point three two
                
                
                 Three point seven four
                
            
            
                
                 Three
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 One point eight zero
                
            
            
                
                 Four
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 Two point five seven
                
            
            
                
                 Five
                
                
                 slippage
                
                
                 Four point four four
                
            
        



    Table 2 Comparison of pretreatment data on both sides of the sample mm

    2 suggestions for improvement


    2.1 clamping mode


    It is suggested that the effective clamping area should be unified. Referring to the latest national standard of clothing products such as GB/T2662-2008 cotton wear, GB/T2665-2009 "female suit, overcoat" and GB/T18132-2008 "silk dress", it is stipulated that when the specimen size is 5 cm * 20 cm, the effective clamping area of the clamp to the sample is 1 inch * 1 inch. It is recommended that the front piece 1 inch x 1 inch, the rear piece 1inch x x clamp, or the front and rear piece size 1, 1 *. According to the current latest edition of the relevant national standards of clothing products, according to the actual work and the industrial and commercial sampling test data, the use of effective clamping area of 1 inch * 1 inch test method can make the quality control of clothing products more stringent, and choose the size of the gripper to improve product quality and protect consumers. Equity Play a certain role of supervision and promotion.


    2.2 sampling position


    Refer to the sampling method of sleeve stitch in GB/T2660-2008's "shirt" standard: sleeve 1/2 up 4 is the sample center (short sleeves are not assessed), and the sampling position of trousers side seam for shorts products is changed to "1/2 sides of trousers side as the center" (as shown in Figure 4), which can avoid the accuracy of test results caused by the inconsistency and irrationality of sampling.



    Fig. 4 suggested sketch map for shorts sample collection

    2.3 sample preparation method


    For testing the seam strength and seam cracking of the trousers, it is necessary to pre treat the sides of the specimen, such as sewing thread and thread line on the sides of the sewing thread on 5 cm, and knot the bottom line to reinforce the sides (see Fig. 5). This can not only meet the standard 5 cm sample width, but also avoid the inaccuracy of the test data caused by sewing thread slippage.



    Fig. 5 reinforcement on both sides of specimens

    3 conclusion


    The following conclusions can be drawn from the above analysis:


    (1) when testing the seam slippage of clothing, it is suggested that the clamp with effective clamping area of 1 inch * 1 inch should be used uniformly to ensure the degree of crack in the middle position of the test sample, make the test sample more concentrated and increase the accuracy of the sample test.


    (2) it is suggested that the sampling position of shorts should be changed to "1/2 centers on the side seam", so as to enhance the rationality and operability of the test.


    (3) the preparation of samples to avoid the slippage of the sewing thread at the edge of the sample two effectively. It is recommended to knot and reinforce both sides of the sample so as to truly reflect the slippage performance of the garment products.

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