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Behind The Scenes Of Fashion Week

2012/3/3 9:32:00 35

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Fashion designer -- finding balance in the symbiosis between art and Commerce

In the face of rapidly changing and complicated information, there are a group of people who have advanced thinking, and have rotten and magical hands. They can comb, refine, pform and sublimate.

They have their own names.

Fashion Designer

Also known as the "senior tailor".

Many famous brands are named after the names of fashion designers, such as CHANEL, Givenchy, Vivienne Westwood and so on. Under their works, they can feel strong and exclusive style.

Old Buddha Karl Lagerfeld

Representative: Buddha Karl Lagerfeld

"I will die in boots." this is the powerful counterattack by Karl Lagerfeld, who has been suspicious of his work. Let's look at the new surprises of Chanel, the magazine blockbuster, and his own brand.

Maybe you and I have already seen countless times. How many times have we seen Karl Lagerfeld holding the hand of the model and walking up to the curtain call at T? The same thing is silver white horse tail, black suit and white shirt. Over the years, the models around him have changed a bit, but he has not changed at all.

Summing up the achievements of Karl Lagerfeld over the past year: CHANEL includes 8 series of garments, including fashion and fashion, and its own brand design.

In addition to this, he loved photography very much. He not only shot publicity photos and product catalogues for Chanel and DIOR Homme, but also appeared in almost all fashion magazines including vogue, Purple and so on.

Nearly a huge amount of work, even young people in the prime of life, will be daunted. What's more, the fashion queen, who was born in 1938, is now 74 years old, but still wears a narrow suit and leads the world's best models on the T platform. More importantly, he has no intention of retiring at all. Even if there was a rumor that Karl was going to retire from Chanel, he replied with a reply, "I signed a life contract, so I ended up like a dead prisoner."

Of course, how can fashion be simple?

fashion

Fashion has always been a business, finding balance in the symbiosis of art and Commerce and seeking benefits is the ultimate goal.

If you earn money, you will have the opportunity to get the next "art" job in front of you.

After all, the competition in fashion circles is becoming more and more intense under the situation of too many monks and fewer porridge.

Therefore, we see that Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld have many brands in their hands. They should be on the design stage and fight forever. But even if Louis Vuitton and CHANEL are already recognized as top brands, the two designers are still speaking in various media, with sharp words.

They always hold people's fashion view in their hands.

Model designer favorite inspiration Mousika

They are the best interpreter of the designer's work, and their performance directly affects the effect of the brand release.

They made millions of dollars worth of T on just a few dozen meters.

The world's first super model was born in 1911, Lisa Fonssagrives.

In 80s, the rise of fashion in Italy promoted the rapid development of the model industry.

The famous classic of "no ten thousand dollars, never get up" marked by Linda Evangelista has declared the age of supermodel.

In 90s, the five supermodels "Christy Turlington, Cindy Crawford, NaomiCampbell, Claudia Schiffer, Linda Evangelista" created a real "supermodel era".

Later, when the era of Kate Moss came to an end, the Brazil girl Gisele Bundchen, who had a charming curve, successfully reached the top of the world's top models, earning $45 million a year, making her earn nearly 100 million dollars from scratch until she was 30 years old.

Therefore, every year, hundreds of young and beautiful girls from all over the world come to the four fashion week to win the T blockbuster opportunity in fashion week.

Models run around the city and participate in numerous models of recruitment. Finally, these choices will decide which girls go to T, and which girls can only watch under the stage.

Strength, height, self-confidence, gait, temperament, beautiful skin, shiny hair, perfect proportions, and of course need a little bit of luck and your own style, all of which can determine whether your next model is smooth.

Liu Wen has become the most popular Chinese supermodel in the world today.

Representative:

Liu Wen

For the first time in the latest global TOP50 model list, China has had seven first super models in the top 50.

Liu Wen, Feifei Sun, Qin Shupei, He Sui, Xi Mengyao, Ju Xiaowen and Wang Xiao.

Liu Wen, a player who had fallen on the national model contest, has become the hottest Chinese supermodel in the world. Liu Wen seems to have swept through the whole fashion circle. Now she has pformed from a T newcomer to a "veteran".

Many people say that Liu Wen is simply like a blank sheet of paper, but it is her simple simplicity that makes her deeply loved by designers. This kind of simplicity will enable them to produce more creative ideas.

Now Liu Wen is the top Chinese model.

Pointing fingers, Liu Wen has already gone to the 8 quarter of the T station, which is the most frequently attended week in China's supermodel history.

Dazzling stars -- box office guarantee during Fashion Week

Nowadays, designers of clothing design do not only have the idea of releasing new products every quarter. In the economic era, brand operation is also a kind of creativity, and its importance may not be lost to simple design.

Therefore, the dazzling star has become the "box office guarantee" during the launch of the major brand fashion week.

It has been said that the history of modern fashion itself is a history of "cooperating" between stars and designers.

Behind the flourishing of every entertainment circle, there are countless fashion brands lined up to provide costumes for stars only to win the glitter on the red carpet.

But who can guarantee that such a link is not just a night's love affair, but a long and stable marriage? The next grand meeting, the next time, the stars will wear the clothes of other families and appear in the first row of other families.

The discerning eye can see clearly whether the relationship between a brand and a certain star is long or not depends on the popularity and popularity of the stars.

Representative: Audrey - Hepburn

The real perfect interaction between fashion and stars can often be celebrated for a long time. For example, the friendship and cooperation between Hepburn and Givenchy lasted for a lifetime. Their intimate relationship has never changed. Their friendship is even longer than that of her and any husband. It is also more like Marilyn Monroe and CHANEL.

The brand should not just label the stars, but should go deep into their lives and let the brands appear in their most authentic stories.

In those days, the unknown Audrey Hepburn came to Paris to pay homage to the already famous Hubert de Givenchy. At that time, Hepburn was a little star who didn't go into the stream. Hubert de Givenchy was deeply impressed by her stunning appearance after changing her clothes.

Later, the story is the two people grow together, and then become a superstar in their respective fields.

In this case, Hepburn itself is both classical and modern, highly suited to Givenchy's aesthetic appeal, and Givenchy has also established an unbreakable emotional connection with Hepburn, which had not yet been popular all over the world.

But since then, the relationship between stars and fashion has become more and more "snobbish", most brands will only choose "popular fried chicken".

Another interesting phenomenon is that the top row position of the four fashion week has always been the domain of European and American superstars. However, recently we have found that more and more domestic stars are also sitting in this symbolic position and reputation.

Before Maggie Cheung, Michelle Yeoh, Gong Li and other predecessors took the lead, with Fan Bingbing (micro-blog) Zhang Ziyi and Chen Yao (micro-blog) taking the lead, later there were new generations such as Huo Siyan (micro-blog), micro-blog (micro-blog) and micro-blog (micro-blog).

The show of fashion week is designed on the stage and fame and fortune are contending on the stage.

See whether the show is in the front row, whether the location is the most central, and how many brands are invited to see the show, whether it is being taken care of by the top brands. All these are the highlights of the "international superstar" status, the embodiment of the star fashion appeal, and the competition among the foreign stars, and the domestic stars are more contending.

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Fashion media: Interpretation of sharp words

Some people say that fashion is an industry that is full of ups and down. There are countless women in the world dominated by women and gay men.

The industry has Karl Lagerfeld such "fashion emperor", but there are also a group of fashion media queen.

Unlike the fashionable media that have just started in China, in the relatively developed countries with fashion industry, it is necessary to be a qualified assistant for many years in the fashion magazines, not to mention those "magic heads". Therefore, this is why the "devil" in front of the fashion show are old faces, and their comments on a designer may also affect the sales performance of the brand next season. What is beauty, what style, what is unique, and what is the bright future is all in their sharp words.

"Fashion devil" Anna Wintour

Representative: "fashion devil," Anna Wintour

The movie "The_Devil_Wears_Prada", which vividly describes the survival rule of fashion circles, has enabled more Chinese to know the "Vogue" American edition editor in chief Anna Wintour.

She plays a decisive role in the fashion industry. If any press conference does not have her appearance, it means that she will lose her luster. If the young designer does not have her appreciation, she will not be able to become famous.

There was a wonderful plot to expose the truth of fashion in the movie.

Editor in chief, Meryl Streep, describes the trend of fashion in Cerulean blue sky color, and the important role of fashion magazines in the whole fashion industry chain.

When the editor used "important" to describe a bland skirt, editor in chief Andy, who thought he was pure and refined, laughed.

When the editor found out, she put her heart to heart and taught her: "the slovenly twist sweater on your body...

Blue, isn't it? You don't know, it's not just blue, nor is it water blue or navy blue, to be exact, it's called cerulean clear sky blue.

You wouldn't know that there was a magazine that only needed a dress of this color to cover the cover. Oscar de la Renta made a number of cerulean evening dresses. Then YSL also had cerulean overcoats. In fact, Michael Kors took it as the theme of the whole series, and we only needed one, cerulean appeared in the eight Designer Series.

This simple cover has affected every department store, chain store and plagiarism in the middle and low price market.

Then one day, you bought it at a reduced price pile.

When you think that the clothes you wear are your own eyes and choices, the fact is that many people have made choices for you before many, many seasons ago.

During the fashion week, thousands of pages of magazines report that the latest trend of fashion is always catching up with you.

Therefore, we have seen time and time again that Anna Wintour, who has gone through 60 years of life, is still combing the flower heads and wearing big sunglasses, keeping the style of never arriving late, appearing in the top row position of the fashion week. The colorful Anna Piaggi is still the most beautiful scenery on the fashion week. Even though it has left, the Carine Roitfeld wearing a pencil skirt has changed the tradition a little, but it still goes through the fashion week with the constant middle point of chaos.

Apart from the editor in chief of magazines, the ordinary editors of different media are not so bright.

Although it will also dress up, but there is no editor's high exposure, but absolutely can not delay the fashion week report.

If anyone else appreciates the show, the most painful thing is the editors who are reporting the mission.

If there is any big coffee in today's show, then the first one to squeeze forward is the editor of the show, the editor of the fashion week, the amateur photographer, the stylist, the reporter and even the paparazzi.

From another point of view, striving to maintain the image of "fashion devil" is only one of the "professional codes" in the fashion industry. No matter how often they appear in public, or whether the influence of these editors is so great that even brands need to be polite, it is undeniable that the power struggle of public relations in every fashion magazine is not about fighting for honor, but rather a competition for survival.

The whole hard struggle of the magazine industry is not for the budget of each brand advertisement.

Fashion bloggers -- grassroots in the Internet Age

If you invite celebrities to watch the show, since it is already a common trick, if you look for the fashion bloggers who are in the ascendant, they will be fashionable. The fashion bloggers are really the roots of the grass roots. The reason why they are favoured is entirely their strong voice.

Once the fashion is very small, the high-end customization and the strict division of luxury goods make the fashion world mysterious.

Today, the advocacy of diversified fashion and the popularity of Internet have made fashion more popular, and also created a large number of fashion bloggers.

They wrote the fashionable grass roots strength and made the fashion look better today.

Representative: Bryanboy

Bloggers first published blog posts related to fashion and fashion industry in their blogs.

Due to the lack of brand restrictions, their comments were pertinent and well matched, and attracted lots of netizens to watch. Gradually, their fashion influence swept through the Internet world just like the flu. Just like the fashionable blogger Bryanboy, who was popular because of the bold style of dress, he not only made Marc Jacobs named a bag in his name, but also became a popular guest in the fashion week of the season.

Another typical example is Choi Choi, her clothes and blogs have 100 thousand to 200 thousand hits per day, affecting millions of ordinary Chinese girls.

The 13 year old fashion blogger Tavi Gevinson has accumulated a total of 4 million hits. In 2010, fashion blog Jezebel.com visited more than Kangtai's Nash group's fashion website Style.com.

Seeing that fashion bloggers are increasingly speaking, the brand will not be indifferent.

As a result, the big players also put down their arrogant figure, and first invited fashion bloggers to see the show in the front row.

Dolce&Gabbana is definitely the first fashion week to invite fashion bloggers.

At that time, Dolce&Gabbana invited Garance Dore, Bryan Boy, Susie Bubble and Tommy Ton at one time. In front of the four, the special computer was lined up, while watching the show on the side of the show could not buy the hearts of the fans.

On the other hand, as street racket prevails, brand PR will try every means to connect with fashion bloggers and street photographers. All new models will be Snap, and now the popularity of the media, twitter, Facebook, micro-blog, self timer + forwarding will not be hard to get through the Internet.

At present, there are many successful bloggers in the Internet.

From log selection to filming techniques, it is necessary to have photography, PS skills, and how to interact with fans to maintain blog visits. In the end, bloggers are also models, photographers, stylists and post production multiple identities.

The real core competitiveness -- selling oneself also makes bloggers a key link in the fashion industry chain.

Stylist - help designers set the tone for release.

Like photographers, fashion buyers and fashion editors, stylists are often drowned in glowing lights, but they are the ones who can set the tone for the entire fashion release according to the designer's intention.

"Once upon a time, no one took makeup seriously," said Gordon Espinet, senior vice president of makeup department, MAC cosmetics department.

When it comes to fashion shows, people only care about those clothes.

"We all know Calvin, Donna, Ralph, Giorgio and Gianni, but few people know the name of the stylist."

In the late 1980s, many supermodels did not belong to their own makeup.

But ten years later, designers wanted a professional makeup artist to tell them how to link makeup with fashion.

Ten minutes on the stage and ten years on the stage.

The supermodels of the T station are all the magic hands of the stylist.

They have worked hard for the magnificent performance.

Those who have been lucky enough to go to the background of fashion week should know that the backstage of the show is the ocean of cosmetics and maintenance products, and the stylists are camping in the background with a box of cosmetics.

Don't think that the dressing line of the fashion week is easy to operate.

Even if you want to find an ordinary position in the background, competition is fierce.

In recent years, the backstage of the show has become another focus. Journalists have gone to interview those big make-up artists, manicurst and hairstylists, who have created bright rock eye makeup or colorful neon dishes.

Some of these videos are uploaded to YouTube, and everyone can see Pat McGrath, Diane Kendal, Charlotte Tilbury, who are talking about makeup fashion.

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Photographers -- eyes for beautiful pictures

The fashion Monday road went to London, where professional photographers and off-road Street photographers also moved from New York to England.

We can not everyone experience the scene of the fashion week, so the photographer has become an eye for us to find beautiful pictures.

Photographers directed the lens to the stage behind the 2012 fashion week. Stars, models, designers, and street photographers captured the beautiful images with his keen and unique vision.

"Happy, sad, and happy shows are fully graspted, and the streets are full of beautiful scenery."

These two remarks made a wonderful comment on the photographer's work.

However, with the popularity of fashion bloggers, street photographers are getting more and more.

Listen to a senior photographer.

"Now that many brands are showing more and more street clothing on the T stage, the clothing on the street has become more and more fashionable."

At the same time, it was found that the photographers stationed outside the show suddenly increased.

However, in the face of more and more crazy Street patrons, some people openly expressed their objections. GQ editor Will Welch rose to the scene: "the fashionable people who should have worked hard in the show are now dressed up to get the exposure in the street.

"Is this situation already mutated into a monster and devouring fashion week?" some people share the same opinion with him. "The fashion week's main character should be the Chinese dress on the T stage, but this theme is putting the cart before the horse: after a street pat appeared, a group of bloggers held a long gun and short cannon, and stood in the streets around the show.

I don't think it should be too concerned.

In the fast food era, people have no time to appreciate the delicious taste of foie gras. What people need is that they can play eighteen Wu Yi players in a complicated fashion circle.

You know, sensory nerve stimulation precedes the brain's response.

When you spend a lot of money to dress up, who needs a low key? It's best to wear 100 information points to prove that it is worth a lot of money.

Street shooting, that's what it means.

Fashion buyer - trend judgement for purchasing plan

The first role of fashion week is not to display purely, but to place orders and clothing pactions.

Besides the magazine editor, dazzling star and fashion blogger, there are other mysterious figures in the front row sitting figures.

In the era when everyone loves fashion, buyers emerge as the times require.

They are Fashion Lucky Devil, looking at all kinds of Chinese clothes on the T platform, not everyone can wear them in the end. After all, not everyone can afford to wear big cards.

But the trend elements can be used for reference, and how to convey the designer's design ideas to customers accurately, they play an important role.

Each season's international fashion week, brand new product launches, every fashion buyer team will shuttle.

Every international brand has its own professional buyer team, which generally includes a designer, a fabric buyer, a print buyer and a printer buyer.

More than half of the year is spent in the world to catch fashion information. The front seats of the brand press conference will always be reserved for them.

It is necessary to communicate and negotiate with suppliers from all over the world, and to shop in Paris, London, New York and Tokyo.

Busy season, often wake up in the hotel in the morning, will forget which country they are in.

Never think that a buyer's life is travel, pleasure and shopping.

The conference site is their office.

Everyone has to integrate and analyze the fashion trends and popular elements of each show, and hand record the scene, then discuss with the designer, and make the most accurate judgement of the product in the shortest time in the shortest time -- color, style, fabric, market positioning, purchase plan and purchase direction.

Thus, in the summer of July, the windows of the Fifth Avenue department store in New York exhibited the scene of the tweed coat or the chiffon gauze skirt, which was like a cicada in the cold wind of January.

Representative: Prada four

Fashion buyer

team

In the 2011 Milan autumn and winter fashion week, Prada's new product release is one of the most popular showcases, and the four people's fashion buyer team of Prada also frequently appears in the Bottega Veneta, Versace, Armani, Valentino new product launches.

Every buyer in the team will catch the popular elements and trends with the most keen fashion. Through the integration of information, we will jointly determine the market positioning of the product in the coming year, fashion style, color, fabric and printing, and make a clear plan for the purchasing direction and purchase plan.

Such a meticulous buyer team is the exclusive international buyer's mode of operation. It is behind these buyers' teams that the next international fashion week will be so colorful.

Throughout the domestic apparel industry buyer brand, there is no such a detailed division of the buyer team, buyers still remain in a single state of procurement.

The design version, fabric and printing are basically completed by designers and buyers. This is the fundamental reason why domestic clothing brands can not achieve high quality in all aspects of design, fabric and edition.

The division of labor of the brand buyer team is the general trend of the domestic clothing buyer brand.

Hundreds of show shows, direct participation of hundreds of thousands of people, the 2012 autumn winter fashion week is about to end.

In addition to all the characters listed above, we must say that the real storm in fashion week is always the gold behind the brand.