Do You Know Her History?
One person's
reform
In the late nineteenth Century, the era of corsets was far from over.
In the eyes of women, it is still the most important thing in life to compete for men's favor by swaying their finer waist. The dark curtain still hanging over European women for hundreds of years is still closed, and the corset is still the nightmare of every European woman.
In the eyes of men's eyes, women can only tear their brassiere with their tears.
The inconveniences, health risks, dull, old-fashioned and outdated shortcomings are all exposed. Even the perfect hourglass women who are most satisfied with the opposite sex's eyes have been fed up with the devil wrapped around them.
At the same time, along with the dawn of twentieth Century, electricity, automobiles, radio and so on have stepped onto the stage of the times. The needle of history is pointing to modern times. People entering the new era are greedy to breathe the breath of the times at the turn of the century. People are eager to throw off the bondage, even for hundreds of years women who suffer from physical and mental oppression.
The era of relaxing the waist and focusing on the chest is imminent.
First of all, let's put the clock back to 1904, and a ugly son of cloth boy goes back to Paris.
Soon after that, the young man did something unexpected. He went to war with a corset that had been imprisoned by European women for hundreds of years.
The aftermath also shows that this is not only a war book but also a death sentence for a corset.
He is called Paul Polret (PaulPoiret).
Paul Poiret
Born in Paris in April 1879, this fashion and dream city.
At the age of twenty, he was recognized by Doucet, a famous fashion designer in Paris. He was hired as a special fashion designer for Duse.
Du's staff, models, and even his father did not agree.
But Duse is very optimistic about this young man who loves cloth and clothing from childhood. He pays close attention to the wave and encourages bollie to swim in the big sea of the society and never fear drowning.
Po Li did not disappoint his mentor. His first work, the cloak of the cloak, was designed to win the respect of his colleagues and his father's approval.
But this brilliant designer obviously has greater ambition. The fire of his clothing revolution has never been extinguished since the beginning of his schooldays.
Soon, wave left Du Se and joined the army.
After retiring, he went to work in Wroth's brother's fashion shop and eventually split up because of his disagreement.
In 1904, borlie returned to Paris. Under the encouragement of tutor, Paul, Boris, twenty-five, started his "dream war". He opened his own boutique in Paris, abbot street, 5. Although the shop was simple, the costume designed by him revolutionaries quickly captured the eyes of the world.
In 1906, he married Tinis, a cloth factory owner's daughter, Denise.
Tinis is slim and flat, but this posture has become the best medium to show Paul Polret's design. Tinis has become the exclusive model of Bo Li.
Paul Polret's design is deeply inspired by the classical dress that shows the natural curves of women. He hates the "rotten things" that make women uncomfortable. This design starts to break away from the S shape and tends to be simple and relaxed. During this period, the wave shape line is characterized by increasing waist line, long and narrow dress, and less decoration.
He later designed a series of new elegant skirts, focusing on the natural curves of women.
Bo's design quickly swept through France and was popular with the top of the society. He also became the "designer" of many stars at that time.
In the era of the old and new times, Bo Li changed the curve to rule European clothing for hundreds of years, so that the straight line regained its dominance, thus opening the prototype of the modern modeling line in twentieth Century.
He was the first person in the twentieth Century to simplify the modeling of Western costume historians.
But this outstanding designer is not a successful businessman. He is keen on extravagant dance and lingers in high places. The three bankruptcy experience not only let Tinis leave him, but also made him fall down in his old age and eventually died in an ordinary civilian hospital.
"In the name of freedom, I declare the rise of the waist and the rise of the bra," and now all the ladies who enjoy the freedom and comfort on the chest should thank the designer who sticks to the spirit of freedom in France.
A series of designs sounded the death knell for its opponent, the corset.
He quoted himself as saying that he "liberated both breasts".
Wait,
Bras
Was it not invented by Bo Li? Who invented the bra? {page_break}
Who invented bra?
As for the inventors of bra, there have been widely divergent opinions. It was said that in 1859, a New York Broolyn named Henry applied for a patent for his "symmetrical spherical chest covering", and was considered to be the prototype of bra.
In 1870, a tailor in Boston advertised in the newspaper to sell "chest support" for women with big breasts.
But the most widely circulated is another interesting story.
We set the clock again, this time in 1913. Mary Phelps Jacob (Mary Phelps Jacob) carefully selected a set of charming evening dress that was charming and thin like a cicada before attending a New York upper class dance.
Unfortunately, she found something that made her feel bad. Her corset had occasional protrusions exposed to her dress, and it was very painful for her to wear through her fine dress dress and her rough bra. It was difficult for her to pick out the gauze dress. The clever woman who was preparing to dress up at the ball was not prepared to do so. She thought of a good idea. She took two pieces of silk handkerchiefs and some pink ribbons and thread, and made a new breast support.
This is not only comfortable and light, but also not exposed to evening wear.
Marie, dressed in this dress, glances at the party, causing many other women to follow suit.
This "invisible underwear" soon aroused great excitement and became popular.
People who didn't know afterwards asked their friends to ask Marisol for this new underwear, and another person wrote a letter and sent us $1 in the letter.
So Marie was inspired and decided to make use of his invention.
Not long after, she spent 50 dollars on the design drawing of the product design, named brassiere.
She spent the whole year making this "bra" bra for friends who liked this bra.
In second, he applied for a patent, which declared Marie to be the first person in bra manufacture.
Mary Phelps Jacob is a descendant of American jeweler and master of art and Mechanical Engineer Robert Fulton.
Fulton invented the ship and was a very important figure in the history of human invention.
However, from a woman's view, it seems that the bra is more "great" than a ship.
A woman can not take a boat every day, but she can't help wearing a bra.
However, compared with her outstanding ancestors, Marie lost sight and persistence. After that, she and her maid produced hundreds of bras, but no one was interested in it.
Soon, she gave up the new baby. She sold the patent to a company producing tights, earning only 15000 dollars in cash.
People counted the account for her, and she lost 15 million dollars just because of the patent.
{page_break}
War and opportunity
On Sunday, June 28, 1914, on the national day of Serbia, Sarajevo, the capital of Bosnia, in the Balkans, is shining brightly. Franz Ferdinand, the prince of Austria Hungary, took his wife Sophia here for a special visit.
The purpose of his trip is to make his wife win Royal honors she did not get in Vienna and to provoke the neighboring Serbia.
He forgot, however, that the land was annexed to Austria 6 years ago, and the people's memory of their homeland was full of hatred, and the plot to assassinate him was brewing.
When he was a member of a secret organization in Serbia, when the 17 year old sprin shot through the neck of Ferdinand and his wife's belly, with the spout of two blood, a war involving the whole world began.
War means bloodshed and separation, which means pain and death.
But for the underwear industry, especially for bra history, this is an opportunity. Things are always so wonderful. Seemingly irrelevant two things can always find the touch of something.
The embarrassment and material shortage brought by the first World War is inevitable, which means that everyone has to make sacrifices.
Luxury and beauty are out of season. Women's flannel trousers and clothes are also shortened because of the shortage of cloth. The class gap between the upper class and the civilian population has also been narrowed. Many women have come out of the beautiful banquet and come to the private sector, and volunteered to join in charity work. Such a move made them first contact with those once ignorant and ignorant civilians, and they saw a way of dressing different from the past.
At the same time, as the war intensifies, most men die or enlist in the army. The whole society is short of labor force. Women are on the job and take over the social role of men.
They walked into the factory, walked into the office, walked into the post office, worked as a worker, became an administrator, became a postman, and even became a tram driver.
In order to adapt to the work, the coarse and heavy woven fabric has been completely unable to adapt to the new work of women.
The corset is becoming more and more intolerant. It has begun to become shorter and softer, and has gradually simplified into a waistband. But the bra has become the waistband to complete the waist and buttocks. What should the chest do? At this time, the bra comes into the eyes of women again. Over the years, it has always attracted women's interest and try, but it has never been as indispensable as it is now.
From the trendy to the necessities, the history of bra has opened up a new page.
But for bra makers, this is the worst of times. Most factories fail in this war of raw materials and life. Only a handful of factories and manufacturers rely on past accumulation to survive. The survival of manufacturers can only simplify the design process, shorten the production process, reduce costs, support and wait for the end of the war.
But with the end of the war, the best time has also begun. During the war, women who had already had the braid and comfort of brassiere had already tasted.
Unable to accept the bondage of corsets, the postwar brassiere market has seen dramatic prosperity. Manufacturers have been able to see the bright moon and earn money. With the support of sufficient funds, the bra has been more innovative and designed, and is already very close to modern bra. More and more women are beginning to enjoy the comfort and portability of bra.
After a hard period of development, the battle of the first World War ended in a truly solid foothold. Just like everything in the rising period, waiting for it will be a glorious golden age.
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