Collection Of Costume Culture In Different Periods

Stone Age

In the late Paleolithic human beings, the human needles were found in the cultural relics of the cave man in Zhoukoudian.

In the late Neolithic age, the styles of clothes were different among people in different regions and races.

Take hairstyle as an example, there are short haircuts in the culture of the Dadi Bay. There are backward hair weaving in the culture of Ma Jia Yao. The hoop made of pig's tusks in the Dawen culture is used in the Longshan culture. The head of the jade man unearthed from the Shenmu Shimao site of Longshan Culture in Shaanxi has a bun on the top, which may be a reflection of the hair.

The bones are unearthed in the ruins of the two Li type and the East Xia Feng type, which are similar to the Xia Li's culture in the Xia Dynasty.

Therefore, it is known that the hairpin is the characteristic of the Huaxia costume in ancient times.

Shang Xi Zhou

The clothing of Shang and Western Zhou Dynasty did not exist in real life. According to the jade and stone figures of the tomb of Hou Jia Zhuang and the tomb of Fu Hao in Anyang, the aristocratic upper aristocrats of the Shang Dynasty wore their jacket, waist belt, gentry belt, and the lower part of the body.

In the Western Zhou Dynasty, there were fewer images.

From the perspective of jade and bronze humanoid vehicles unearthed in Luoyang, clothing, clothing, belts and markets are still the basic components of aristocratic men's wear.

The clothes are in the same color, and the clothes are in the same color.

Inscriptions on bronze ware in Western Zhou Dynasty were recorded in the ceremony of King Zhou's life.

In China, there are often "Zhu City, onion yellow" ("Mao Gong Ding"), "city, yellow" ("inquire") and so on.

"Heng" refers to the whole set of ornaments including jade and jade.

The figures of the tomb of the Warring States in Xinyang, Henan and Hubei, Jiangling, are all in the front of the jade belt.

The aristocracy, with its special colors, is a symbol of the status of the people.

The spring and Autumn period and the Warring States Period

At this time deep clothing and Hu clothing began to promote.

Deep clothing will be linked to the upper and lower clothes, so called deep clothing.

Its hem does not have a slit opening, but extends its collar to cover it back, that is to say, "continue to hook."

Deep clothing was quite popular in the Warring States period. In the remains of Zhou royal family and Zhao, Zhongshan, Qin, Qi and other countries, the characters wearing deep garments were found.

The deep garment of the wooden figurines unearthed from Chu tomb shows a clearer structure.

Short sleeved clothing is a characteristic of Chu clothing.

In the 1 tombs of Mount Mashan, Jiangling, there was a short sleeved "Yi" and Yi Yi Yi. According to the explanation of Shuo Wen, this is a short coat.

According to the bell of the bell of Ceng Houyi's chime, it should be a short sleeved garment.

Hu clothing mainly refers to the clothing style of trousers, especially the trousers. It is the costumes of the steppe people in northern China.

For riding convenience, they wear narrower jackets, trousers and boots.

According to Shiji Zhao Shijia, this system is used by Zhao Wuling and Wang Shouxian to equip the army of Zhao.

The bronze warrior statue of the watershed in Changzhi, Shanxi, is wearing a straight collar straight jacket, with trousers underneath, waist belt, and sabre. It is the image of the warrior of Zhao who uses Hu clothing.

"The system of Hufu, the crown is Hui Wen, the belt is the belt, the shoe is the shoe, and the trousers are the pleated pants.

Since the Warring States, King Zhao Wuling, Hu Fu riding and shooting, the pleated folds were handed over to China. All the past dynasties thought that the military uniform, or with its crown, or with its shoes, or with its clothes and belts, or the three, it was used by the people of the Jin Dynasty.

In the northern and Southern Dynasties, the Northern Dynasties were ruled by Hu, and the Southern Dynasties were Han. They were still military uniform. Compared to the Sui and Tang Dynasties, emperors were dressed as hunting clothes, or upper and lower public service.

Traced back from the people to the prosperous, from military to civilian services, the history is long and the changes are complex. Wang (Guo Wei)'s Hu Hu Kao is the most detailed and unnecessary.

The only reason why the Tang Dynasty's Hu Fu is so special has never been studied.

According to the fool, there are three reasons: (1>) the Hu people in the Tang Dynasty lived in large numbers in the mainland; (2) the aristocratic class sat down and sat down for the Hu people; (3) courtiers and attendants, abandoned cars while riding horses.

There are so-called half arms in Hu clothing.

It is called half arm.

In the Shuo Wen, there is no word in the word "jade", nor is it in the jade chapter.

Sleeveless or half arm clothes are all beard clothes. "The only record of the crime," Guan Yun Zhi, "Yun Dynasty", "the pleated, the military uniform, the sleeves are short, or the sleeveless sleeves and the clothes are interrupted, under the horizontal fold, and under the vertical fold.

If the sleeves are long, then drag or scatter, or in the middle of the waist, with a horizontal line, that is Cheng Zi Yi, the wireless road, called the Dao robe.

Like this trouser fold, it becomes the general name of Hu Fu.

The sleeves of sleeveless, short sleeves, long sleeves, and tunes that are cut across the middle of the waist or cross the radio way can be called trouser plaits. So the half arm of this discussion is nothing but trouble.

To its shape, song Zeng San Yi's "Tong Lu Lu" and "raccoon dog sleeve" are described in detail.

"Near age clothing system, there is a kind of rotary coat, long waist but two sleeves only cover the elbow, the most thick silk for it, still used to wrap, or use cotton, with purple soap edge, the name of the day raccoon sleeves, smell from the Royal horse court people, the short front and back, can sit on the saddle may take off, with short sleeves with its easy to control the ear."

The waist is longer than the waist. The sleeves only cover the elbow, and the edges are covered with purple soap cloth, with a jacket and a cotton coat. It is obviously a half arm system.

With its short front and back, it may be removed from the saddle, so it can also be called "mandarin jacket" and "Liriodendron".

The system of Ming and Qing Dynasties is still.

The book of daily knowledge, volume twenty-eight, "the coat of the neck" is called: "Tai Shi Shi Lu Hongwu banned in March, twenty-six years ago, and the official and the people walking the pawns, and so on, wore a pair of jackets, only riding horses, so that they could ride horses."

Yes, too. "

(excerpt from Huang Xian Zhu's interpretation of Ancient Books)

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Qin and Han Dynasties

The excavation of a large number of pottery figurine in Terracotta Army pit of Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor provides ample examples for the warriors in Qin and Han Dynasties.

They wore a semi long coat to cover the song, though shallow, but still the genus of deep clothing, under the trousers, waist belt hook leather belt.

This dress was still popular in the Western Han Dynasty, and trousers gradually spread to the whole society.

The establishment of the crown system was realized in the Han Dynasty.

In ancient times, the crown of the Huaxia people mainly belonged to the ritual system.

The crown in Han Dynasty mainly belonged to the system of service, and it was the representation of identity, official rank and official rank.

People with low status can only wear gloves instead of crowns.

The crown is a hair mask added to the bun and does not cover the top of the head.

It looks like a cap.

Guan and he were not related to each other. When he arrived at Wang Mang, he was said to be wearing bald heads and crowns.

Later this method was popularized, so the crown appeared on the stone of the Eastern Han Dynasty was also underneath.

Guan and he can not cooperate with each other. The Jinxian crown of civil servants should be matched with rooftop.

Jinxian's front crown is lofty, its rear is sloping and its appearance is oblique.

There are "beams" before the crown, which can be distinguished from the number of the crowns according to the number of beams.

Emperor Dai wears the crown of heaven and the crown of princes Wang Dai, which is also decorated on the basis of Jinxian crown.

Wu Guan Daguan, also known as "Hui (Wen) Guan", was originally made of thin and thin linen made of drooping two ears. Later, it was painted on the bottom and painted on the top. The shape of it was called caged crown.

The cunning crown has been unearthed at the new mang tomb at 62 Wuwei, Gansu.

In addition, samurai also wears crowns.

Law enforcement officials wear the crown.

In distinguishing the respect and the inferior, the beam of Jinxian's crown plays a certain role, but Liang's number is only three.

Therefore, the Han Dynasty also used ribbons as a symbol of official rank. The colors, weaving, density and length of different grades of officials were different.

At this time, the ribbon is the ribbon on official seal, but it is closely related to the group of jade in Western Zhou Dynasty.

Women in the Han Dynasty usually comb their hair back into a pendant bun.

Often wearing deep clothes, women's deep clothing is gorgeous, and its curl is not only wrapped around the lower body, but also has triangular and long streamers on its skew.

Its shape can be seen on the Han Dynasty portrait bricks unearthed in Sichuan.

Wei Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties

The clothing in Wei and Western Jin Dynasty followed the Han system.

Only popular pleats, and wear more at that time called the small crown of the flat towel.

In the northern and Southern Dynasties, because the Northern Dynasties were under the rule of the Xianbei or the Xianbei political masters, they were popular with Xianbei, while a few Xianbei men wore more round neckties or cross legends, trousers, boots, waist belts and buckled leather bands, and wore a fresh hat.

After a long period of miscellaneous ethnic groups, this dress was also popularized among Han Chinese civilians.

On the other hand, some rulers of the Northern Wei Dynasty promoted the localization of Han Dynasty because of political need. So the emperor and his officials had appeared in the ceremonial dress and royal clothing of the Han and Wei dynasties.

This can be seen in the relief of the emperor's Buddha after the emperor's tomb, or the Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty.

Tang dynasty

In the Tang Dynasty in the northern and Southern Dynasties, the system of the Tang Dynasty appeared on the basis of the mutual influence of Hu and Han clothing.

The formal dress as a formal dress is still traditional crown, corona, clothing and clothing, and the routine clothing is improved on the basis of Xianbei dress.

In the Tang Dynasty, men were dressed in uniform from their emperors to their wives, including round necklaces, heads, leather bands and boots.

Short robe is a long gown with slits.

The head is evolved from Xianbei hat. It is a headscarf. When it is wrapped, two towel corners are clinging to the bun. The other two corners are ligation at the back of the brain, and the excess parts hang down naturally.

The material of the head is originally made of black pits or ropes, so the angle of the hanging towel is soft, so it is called "soft feet".

Later, he used copper and iron wire to make bones in the corner of the towel.

Because of the different shapes of the hard feet and the different angles of their tilting, they also have "sentence foot", "spreading feet" and "facing the sky" equation.

The leather strips of the Tang Dynasty were originally equipped with narrow leather strips for the purpose of making use of materials.

There are some square ornaments on the top.

According to the difference of official rank, they are made of jade, gold, rhinoceros, silver, jade stone and blue iron, so that the leather band has become a mark of distinguishing official rank.

In addition, the "color dress" appeared in the Northern Zhou Dynasty, which has formed a system in the Tang Dynasty, and has become a major feature of Chinese official uniform since then.

In the Tang Dynasty, officials from one product to nine products took the same color as purple, green, and green.

Women's clothing in Tang Dynasty was mainly made up of skirts, shirts and dresses.

At this time, the shirt is often hidden in the skirt, so it looks like a long skirt.

Also known as silk, like a long and thin shawl, it was influenced by the influence of Western Asia Buddhism in Central Plains.

In the early days of the Tang Dynasty, women's clothing was also popular with the curled hat, lapel coat and other clothes.

Song dynasty

The clothing of Song Dynasty followed the Tang system.

At that time, the wooden lining and the outer lacquer yarn were used as a "hat" in the Song Dynasty. They could be taken off at will, which was quite different from those of the soft feet in the early Tang Dynasty.

At this time, the emperor and senior officials wore their feet and stretched out their feet to the sides, reaching several feet.

Low tolerances, servants and so on are often worn with no feet.

Women in the Song Dynasty wore skirts and shirts, too.

The skirt is narrower and more finely folded. Besides the Luo skirt, there are also crotch trousers and crotch trousers in the Yellow Tomb of Fuzhou.

Foot binding began in the Five Dynasties and became popular gradually in the late Northern Song Dynasty.

Yuan dynasty

The hat worn by men in Mongolia in the Yuan Dynasty was round, cymbal, square or polygonal.

The former was unearthed in the tomb of Yuan Wang Shi clan in Zhang county, Gansu, while the latter was seen in the tomb of Jiaozuo yuan tomb in Henan.

The robes of the Yuan people often have braid lines at the waist, pleat on the lower body, and braids in the top of the plait. The high official's nobles are mostly made of Nash stone (Zhijin brocade).

It often wears fur coat in winter.

Ladies wear Gu Gu Guan, wood for bone, high three feet Xu, outsourced red silk, upper bead jade, top inserted wood branches, feathers, the style is very special.

In the early Yuan Dynasty, he was asked to dress in Mongolia.

Therefore, the Han nationality in the Yuan Dynasty, especially the Han nationality living in the south of the Yangtze River, is called the "southerners".

Generally different from the Song Dynasty.

Ming and Qing Dynasties

In the Ming Dynasty, the style of the dress was restored to the Tang Dynasty. The style of the suit was similar to that of the Tang Dynasty. It only changed the crown of Jinxian to Liang Guan, and increased the loyalty of the emperor.

In the Ming Dynasty, the official uniform was also worn with a head and round collar gown, but at that time, the head was painted black, and the feet were short and wide.

In addition to the rules of clothing, the public chest is also filled with chest and back patches.

The birds are decorated with birds, and the military officers are decorated with animals.

For the merit of the praising officials, special python, flying fish, bullfight and other clothes were specially given.

A python is a dragon with four claws. The flying fish is a python with fish fins and a fin.

Official to supreme use jade belt.

Therefore, "the snake and the jade belt" became the most prominent costumes of the officials at that time.

The Qing Dynasty changed to full dress.

The official coat of the robe outside the robe is mostly stone green, so it does not need a dress.

In the Qing Dynasty, when the official uniform was differentiated from the rank, the top of the tassels was also emphasized.

A product official installed Ruby hat top, two products loaded coral top, three sapphire top, four products green gold stone top, the following have equal difference.

Among the military officials, those who are highly valued and who have military skills are also rewarded for wearing flowers. They have one eye, two eyes and three eyes.

Therefore, the official costume of Qing Dynasty was the most prominent symbol.

In the two dynasties of the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the Han women's clothing changed little. They still wore shirts and skirts.

After the middle period of the Qing Dynasty, women's clothing was fringed at the end of each other.

In the Qing Dynasty, Manchu women were dressed in Qipao, sometimes without extra skirts.

After Qian Long, the "bottom of flower pot" shoes appeared in Manchu women's clothing.

After Xianfeng, the tall "two heads" and "big pulling wings" have become the outstanding features of Manchu women's garments.