Interview With Designer Liu Ling And Sun Dawei
When the French fashion brand was founded in 1962
Cacharel
When hiring Chinese designer Liu Ling and sun Da to become brand creative directors, the shock of the Chinese people is stronger than that of the French.
Praise for the breakthrough of China's design breakthrough in the high-end fashion world is coming. For this designer who has worked in Paris for more than 10 years, her own brand Belle Ninon has won the "fashion design cutting-edge Grand Prix" organized by the French version of "ELLE". The veteran fashion house stationed in Paris is just a mature normal road for fashion designers, and has little relationship with nationality.
"This is a kind of professional ethics.
Every designer does not want to bring fame to others because of other things. We are talking about works, hoping that others will recognize themselves as good designers first.
Chinese identity is undoubtedly an advantage for anyone, but we do not want to win attention through it. "
Sun Da was quite frank when he accepted our exclusive interview.
Reporter: did you win the "fashion design cutting-edge Grand Prix" in the French version of "ELLE" last year, mostly with its own brand instead of the designer?
Sun Da Wei
Liu Ling: Yes, this is a totally two concept.
There are many such competitions in China, but most of them are interested in individuals rather than in individual business brands.
People who usually participate in competitions are not necessarily mature designers, and their works may not be of commercial value.
And France cares more about the commercial value of your brand. After winning the award, he will think of ways to help your brand, not just to individuals.
"Fashion design cutting-edge Grand Prix" is like a bridge between individual brand and investor. What we care about is what we can continue to do after winning the award, not individual draft.
Reporter: French fashion circles rarely employ Chinese as design director, especially the old brand like Cacharel.
Sun Dawei and Liu Ling: indeed, Cacharel has a particularly complete world, from perfume to perfume.
Ready-made clothes
To accessories, French people from their teens to seventy or eighty know their history very well.
But it is especially curious and enterprising. It is a young brand. We are all fascinated by this adventure spirit and hope to add our own elements.
The former design director was Belgian, and then South American. Nationality is not so important in fashion language.
The only thing that needs to be adjusted is that we must know who our guests are.
Cacharel a large part of the market share in the United States and Japan (will come back to China), we need to study these markets, and see where they are acceptable in terms of color and type, so as to know which part of the product will be displayed to these guests.
For example, the western and Eastern bodies are different in body structure. Your business plan will definitely deal with the eastern part according to the figure of the East. This is all technical.
Also, Cacharel mainly plays with color. We will see many exhibitions, find artists, and control the proportion of fabrics, clothing, texture and finished products in clear customer groups.
Reporter: has worked in Paris for more than 10 years, has the identity of "Chinese designer" blurred? In what ways does it still affect your work (take the Cacharel2012 spring summer series as an example)?
Sun Dawei and Liu Ling: this thing is not in the image, but in the way we do things in the bones very much like the Chinese.
For example, in the first quarter of Cacharel, we all felt very conservative. Chinese people's minds would want to lay a foundation in the first place and do not want to build it in the air, which is very different from western thinking.
Different cultures and education influence different personalities. Some designers like to do things very well. Some may continue their predecessors' ideas.
To tell you the truth, Chinese identity brings us advantages, and sometimes we deliberately dilute our strengths.
Nowadays, we seldom talk about nationality, but the design itself.
At most, he came out of the system, and rarely asked him where he was born.
Reporter: when you design for Cacharel, do you think more about the fashion attitude of Paris girls? What kind of attitude is it?
Sun Da Wei,
Liu Ling
Cacharel girls are mostly around 25 years old. We have to feel their mindset, favorite songs and listen to their way of speaking.
Girls' minds are hard to understand. Paris girls should be the hardest part of the world.
They will be influenced by the media, but the decision is in their own hands.
They always care most about clothes after they wear them, but not who designed them.
They don't even care whether they are fashionable or not. Some girls wear their grandmother's clothes and feel very beautiful.
"You are dressed like a grandma" is very impolite in French, but many girls do not care. They think it is more important to show their style.
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