Fabric Knowledge: Analyze The Organization Structure Of Dyed Fabrics

Fabric weave analysis is one of the important items to determine the fabric appearance and pattern characteristics. It should complete three aspects of analysis. First, it should accurately analyze the fabric weave rules; Secondly, for dyed fabric samples, it is necessary to analyze a complete cycle of color warp and color weft; Finally, it is necessary to distinguish the arrangement order of yarns with different structures.

In the work of analyzing the fabric structure, first prepare the fabric samples and the checkered paper for drawing the organization chart. The common analysis tools are cloth mirrors, analysis needles, scissors and color paper. The purpose of using color paper is to have an appropriate background background when analyzing fabrics, which is less eye-catching. When analyzing dark colored fabrics, white paper can be used as a background, while when analyzing light colored fabrics, black paper can be used as a background.

Due to the variety of fabrics and the difference of raw materials, density, yarn linear density and other factors, appropriate analysis methods should be selected so that the analysis can achieve twice the result with half the effort.

The common fabric weave analysis methods are as follows:

1. The yarn breaking analysis method is suitable for beginners. It is mainly used for ordinary single-layer fabrics, pile fabrics, towel fabrics, leno fabrics, multi-layer fabrics, and fabrics with high linear density, high density, and complex weave. It can also be divided into non grouping yarn splitting and grouping yarn splitting.

(1) Ungrouped yarn removal: place the sample horizontally, and in most cases, the front of the sample is upward, and the warp is in a vertical position. Remove the warp yarns on the upper and right sides of the sample to form a certain width of burrs on the upper and right sides. The width depends on the specific product. Use the analysis needle to pull the first warp into the raw edge area, and use the cloth mirror or magnifying glass to observe the interweaving of this warp and each weft. The starting point is the first weft above, and fill the interweaving situation from top to bottom into the corresponding square in the first column on the right side of the grid paper. Black indicates longitude floating point, and blank indicates latitude floating point. Generally, at least two longitudinal cycles should be analyzed to ensure the correctness of the analysis results and prevent errors.

Remove the first warp, and then pull the second warp into the burr area. In the same way, record the interweaving of the second warp in the corresponding square on the left side of the first warp. The number of squares used is the same as that of the first warp.

Use the same method to analyze the interweaving rule of other warp yarns in the sample until there are two cycles in both horizontal and vertical directions. When the interweaving rule of a warp yarn is exactly the same as that of the first warp yarn, the first cycle is completed. When the interweaving rule of a certain warp is exactly the same as that of the first warp, it is two complete cycles. So far, yarn removal is over. However, it should be noted that the last warp is not included in the cycle.

Generally speaking, it is easier to analyze the interweaving rule of warp yarns in the raw edge formed by weft yarns, because the weft density is usually less than the warp density, but sometimes the warp and weft yarns may have a large difference in thickness, so it is convenient to analyze the interweaving of weft yarns. At this time, it is necessary to analyze the interweaving rule of weft yarn one by one. If the order of analysis is from right to left, the order of filling in the grid must also be from right to left. The analysis of fabric weave can start from any corner of the fabric, along the longitudinal or transverse direction, but the interlacing situation recorded on the checkered paper must correspond to the position on the fabric.

For example, for the actual weaving of satin weave, the weaving points are numbered with numbers 1-25. The organization chart corresponding to the satin weave and interwoven on the checkered paper according to the number.

Grouping yarn removal: For fabrics with complex weave or large weave cycle, the grouping yarn removal method is accurate and reliable. First, the yarn removal system should be determined. In order to clearly see the interweaving state of warp and weft yarns after yarn removal, the yarn system with higher density should be removed, and the interweaving rule of warp and weft yarns can be clearly seen by using the interspace between yarns of the system with lower density. Secondly, in order to see the fabric structure clearly, it is convenient to analyze the reverse side of warp weave. But if the fabric has been brushed, the surface fuzz should be burned off with flame until the interweaving of warp and weft yarns can be seen. Finally, the tassels shall be made and grouped, and several yarns of one system shall be removed at one side of the cloth sample, so that the yarn of the other system of the fabric exposes 10mm of tassels. As shown in the figure, then yarn Each trunk root is divided into one group, and the tassels of odd group 1, 3, 5... and even group 2, 4, 6... are cut into two different lengths. In this way, when the removed yarn is placed in the tassel, it is convenient to record the interweaving of each group of yarns. It should be noted that when the tassel of the fabric is composed of plied yarns or filaments with very small twist, it should be prevented from scattering to avoid errors in the analysis results.

When the removed yarn is placed in the tassel, its interweaving with odd group yarn and even group yarn can be clearly seen. If there are eight small squares in the vertical and horizontal directions of a large grid used to fill in the pattern, which is exactly equal to the number of tassels in each group, then each large grid can be regarded as a group, and also divided into odd and even groups corresponding to the odd and even number of tassels. In this way, the interweaving rule of the disassembled yarn in the tassel can be recorded conveniently on the square of the paper. For example, the cloth sample of a certain fabric is composed of warp yarns, and each group of tassels is composed of weft yarns. From the right side, gently pull out the first warp, and its interweaving rule with the tassel of the first group of wefts is: the warp is above the 3, 4, 7, 8 wefts, and the tassel of the second group of wefts is: this warp is still above the 3, 4, 7, 8 wefts, and it is interweaving with the third group of wefts according to this rule. Then, the law of interweaving the first warp with each group of weft yarns is filled and drawn on the first longitudinal line of each group of artisan paper, as shown in the figure. Then, the interweaving situation of the second warp with each group of weft yarns is analyzed, and the second longitudinal line of artisan paper is recorded, and so on. When 16 warp yarns are analyzed, the weave of this cloth sample and the number of warp and weft yarn cycles can be obtained. The interweaving rule of warp and weft yarns has two cycles.

2. Local analysis method: some fabrics only have patterns on the surface locally, while the texture on the ground is very simple. At this time, it is only necessary to analyze the pattern and ground separately, and then calculate the number of warp and weft yarns of a pattern cycle according to the number of warp and weft yarns of the pattern and the number of ground weave cycles. It is not necessary to analyze every longitude and latitude organization point one by one. However, it should be noted that the starting point of tissue and floral tissue should be unified, otherwise the analysis results will be wrong.

3. Direct observation method: experienced craftsmen or fabric designers can use the direct observation method to fill the warp and weft interweaving rules of the observed fabric into the grid one by one with visual observation or cloth mirror. During analysis, the interlacing rule of several warp and weft yarns can be filled in to correctly find out the weave cycle of the fabric. This method is simple and easy, and is mainly used to analyze the original weave with low density or simple small pattern weave fabrics.

4. Color effect analysis: in analysis Textile When weaving, attention should also be paid to the matching relationship between the fabric pattern and the colored yarn. The style effect of most colored fabrics is not only reflected by the warp and weft interweaving rules, but also the appearance effect is often obtained by matching the fabric with the colored yarn. Therefore, when analyzing this kind of fabric with colored yarn and weave matching, it is necessary to combine the weave cycle and colored yarn arrangement cycle, and mark the color of colored yarn and the pattern of weave cycle on the fabric organization chart. When the number of weave cycles is not equal to the number of colored yarn cycles, the number of colored yarn cycles is usually greater than the number of weave cycles. When drawing the organization chart, the number of warp yarns shall be the least common multiple of the number of color warp cycles and the number of weave cycles; The number of weft yarns shall be the least common multiple of the number of colored weft cycles and the number of weave cycles.

The drawing method of pattern pattern is similar to the analysis method of fabric weave. First, place the sample flat with the warp perpendicular to form a burr on the upper and right sides of the sample, and make the upper and right sides have a complete color stripe. Pull the first warp on the right into the burr, and analyze it in the same way as fabric weave. Different from organizational analysis, black squares are no longer used to represent longitude floats and blank squares represent latitude floats; Instead, fill the square with the colors of warp and weft yarns floating on it. If the warp yarn is interwoven on the top, the color of the warp yarn shall be used for vertical stroke, and if the warp yarn is interwoven on the top, the color of the weft yarn shall be used for horizontal stroke. This representation method is convenient for inspection, and at least two pattern cycles shall be analyzed.