Looking For Fashion Elements In National Costumes Tibetan Costumes Under The Influence Of Religion

　　 Clothes & Accessories rheology

At present, the oldest and extant material materials about Tibetan costumes are a small number of decorations unearthed from the Qara site in Changdu, including pieces of decorative hairpins, decorations, beads, necklaces, plaques, shells, etc., reflecting that the indigenous people of the Qinghai Tibet Plateau four to five thousand years ago had a high aesthetic interest, not only with bone needles for sewing clothes, It also has the Huang and Zhu that can be created only with certain aesthetic awareness, which may be the precursor of Tibetan clothing culture!

Tubo Period

Tibetan costume culture has developed greatly. During the "Middle Erding King" (equivalent to the middle Western Han Dynasty in the Central Plains), Tubo in the Yalong River Valley in the south began to smelt iron, copper, silver and other minerals, creating conditions for the emergence of metal jewelry. Tibetan history records that in the third century AD, when Latutori Zan, Tubo Zanpu's clothes were different, and there were differences in dress grades. During the period of Songtsen Ganpo in history, the history of Tubo turned a new page, Tubo culture developed rapidly, and its clothing culture developed gradually. The Tubo slavery dynasty was highly hierarchical, and its performance in clothing was also increasingly complete. From the Dunhuang frescoes reflecting the prosperity of Tubo, we can see that there are grade differences in the clothing of the monarchs and officials. The three petal crown with groove decoration and brimless hat that Tibetan kings can only use generally by Zanpu is red, usually higher than the hat of ordinary people; The attendants or officials of Tibetan kings often wear flat topped hats. The style of the robe is also different. The official's decorations include the first class rustle, the second class gold, the third class gold wrapped with silver, the fourth class silver, the fifth class copper, and the sixth class iron. There are twelve levels in total. They are hung on the chest in a three inch box to distinguish the position. The helmets of military officers are shaped like pagodas, and the helmets of soldiers are decorated with three colored flags to indicate the date of birth. With the development of the Tubo smelting industry, which "only focuses on sharpening", the armor of the army is becoming more sophisticated. Some only show two eye sockets around their bodies, and their powerful bows and sharp blades are often unbreakable. Their majesty and bravery are still vividly seen in today's murals of the Jokhang Temple. The Tubo nobles not only dressed themselves in luxury, but also decorated their servants when they gathered for dinner. Songzan Ganbu, as Zanpu, wore a kind of red belt wrapped head, a long gown, and boots with toes pointing up. According to the Red History, this kind of royal costume was influenced by the Persian Dynasty, reflecting that cultural exchanges had affected the cultural level of clothing. From the beginning of Songzan Ganbu, Tubo had close contacts with the Central Plains, The long-term contact between the two cultures has injected fresh blood into the development of Tibetan costumes. According to historical records, when Princess Wencheng went to Tibet, she brought 20000 pieces of various kinds of damask, brocade, silk and colorful clothing, as well as a large number of gold and jade utensils. Songtsen Ganpo and the Tibetan ministers took off the felt fur and wore silk instead. The high-ranking officials in modern Tibet had their hair tied in a bun and wore gold winged white gauze hats, which were the clothes of the Tang Dynasty Jinshi. In addition, the proposal of Princess Wencheng was adopted to ban the "ochre face" (paint the face with oil). Princess Wencheng's arrival in Tibet also brought about the cultivation of sericulture and textile technology. "Mulberry planting and silk weaving" greatly promoted the development of Tibetan clothing technology. A large number of Tibetan clothing cultural relics unearthed in Dulan, Haixi Prefecture, Qinghai, truly and vividly reflected the level of Tibetan clothing technology. The fabric pattern of the clothing is mostly the animal pattern of the linked beads, and the gold jewelry and accessories of the decorations are amazing. Today, the inlay shape of Tibetan women's jewelry can be found in these cultural relics. Stein's Ancient Central Asian Cultural Relics also mentioned: "Among the relics found in Tibet, there are many silk fabrics with patterns, some of which are printed, some of which are woven, and the pattern image changes a lot, which can well indicate the position of Tibetan commerce... probably the key point of trade between China and West Asia." Frequent exchanges promoted the development of Tubo's economy and clothing culture.

Tibet is a military empire. During its development, it conquered and merged many other ethnic groups in the Qinghai Tibet Plateau and its marginal areas, which is an important reason for the cultural differences among Tibetans in various regions today. This is also true in the performance of clothing. In the Tubo era, this difference was mainly reflected in the different costumes of Dongnu, Fuguo, Dangxiang and other tribes. Dongnu tribe lived in Kangyanchuan (today's Changdu), and was in the matriarchal social development stage. Its queen wore a blue wool silk (Pulu) skirt, a green robe, sleeves to the ground, and a lamb fur decorated with brocade in winter. Her hair is like a bun, and her two earlobes are dangling (earrings). Wear leather (leather boots). Generally, men's hair is covered, women's hair is identified, and both men and women use color coating. When Wang died and lived in mourning for three years, he could not dress easily and wash himself. The vassal state is a Tibetan Qiang integration centered on Ganzi, Sichuan, including Jiarong Tibetans in Aba, Sichuan. They wear round fur hats or wear curtains (i.e. masks and other accessories, which are worn by women). Wearing Mao Huo Mao (Pulu Class I), fur fur and cowhide shoes. Tie an iron chain around your neck and wear an iron bracelet. The king and the chieftain used gold as jewelry, with three inch long gold flowers hanging on their chest. Dangxiang is a purely nomadic tribe, "wearing a felt that is brown, and wearing a felt as an ornament". As early as the Northern Zhou Dynasty, it had been able to produce exquisite rhinoceros armor and iron armor. In the northwest of Sichuan, there are Deng Zhi, Wu Xingguo and Dangchang who belong to the Dangxiang Tribal Alliance. The clothing custom is to ride on a hat with black soap on the head, wear a long gown, pants and leather boots, which is similar to the Tibetan clothing in the pastoral areas of Sichuan today. In addition, there are Tuyuhun in Qinghai, where noble women wear brocade robes and golden flower crowns. For example, the female hair style is to distinguish hair and wear pearl shells on the back, which is noble because of variety. This dress is roughly the same as that of Tibetan women in Qinghai today. The costumes in these areas are the mother shapes of different Tibetan costumes in different regions today. After the collapse of the Tubo Dynasty, Tibetan society has been in a chaotic state of separatism for more than 200 years from the middle of the ninth century to the eleventh century. During this period, the chaos of war was unbearable, and the development of costume art was also doomed to stagnate, while the warrior costumes related to the war developed rapidly. In the ruins of the Aliguge Kingdom in Tibet, a large number of ancient warriors' armor and weapons were excavated. The armor is mostly steel plate armor, which is made by stringing steel plates with thin leather strips. The stringing method is quite complicated. The shield in the weapon is woven into a circle with a diameter of 80 cm by rattan. The front is inlaid with copper reinforcements, and the copper pieces are carved with fine patterns, so it can also be called copper ornaments. There are four copper rings on the back, which can be connected with leather strips to hold the handle, Whether these costumes and weapons are locally produced in Tibet or imported, it shows that the Samurai costumes in Tibet had distinctive local characteristics and personality at that time.

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The rise of Buddhist monk costumes

Another feature of clothing development in this period is the rise of Buddhist monk clothing. In the eighth century AD, the first group of monks appeared in Tibet. Their clothes were supplied by the Zambe treasury and later by the people and the government. Buddhist costumes also form hierarchical differences, and have different costumes for festivals and peacetime, forming a system of its own. Many upper class monks live in luxury and wear luxuriant clothes. "They sit down and sit down, put on an umbrella cover, and dress in brocade...". The clothing of early Tibetan monks was greatly influenced by India. According to the legend, the Beixia hat was first handed down from the Indian king to Nyingma Dharma King Lotus, and became one of the Tibetan monk hats. But later, Tibetan monk clothes developed rapidly and were very local. More than 200 years after the destruction of Buddhism by Langdama, Buddhism has re emerged and formed many sects. Each sect not only has different interpretations of Buddhist doctrines, but also has different costumes. The ancient monks of Ningma Sect wear red cassocks, so they are also called Red Cult. The Kagyu Sect, on the other hand, wore red hats or black hats to show the differences between the various tribes. This phenomenon of representing identity and belief with clothing is one of the important functions of Tibetan clothing culture, and it is also quite unique in the history of Tibetan clothing.

Yuan dynasty

In the Yuan Dynasty, Tibet belonged to the Central Dynasty, so it had close contact with the Yuan Dynasty in all aspects of culture, and its clothing was also more affected than that of the previous dynasties. The Yuan Dynasty enfeoffed various levels of officials in Tibet, such as the pacification envoy, the appeal envoy, and Wanhu. Different grades wore different Tibetan robes with different decorations and crowns. Even before the democratic reform, the name of one of the four official uniforms of the Gaxia government still retained the name of the Yuan Dynasty, "Cunza Huaer Baima" (meaning the Mongolian robe with lotus patterns in Tibetan). The main symbol of official products is also the difference of the top decoration on the Mongolian style "Jiangda" (i.e. round crown). The hats of the housekeepers, attendants and servants of the officials and nobles also have certain forms. The big housekeepers should wear "Soxia" (that is, Mongolian hats with flat top and round ears) when holding ceremonies. There is also a kind of cake shaped hat of "Xia Mu Bao Duo" that nobles usually wear. Housekeepers or root cloth (township officials) also often wear it. During this period, the clothes of Sakya's upper officials and nobles were either imitated by Mongolian nobles, or directly presented to the Yuan Dynasty, which was very common. The pastoral areas in northern Tibet have a lot of contacts with the Mongols, and there are still some Mongolian clothing customs.

Another feature of Tibetan costumes in the Yuan Dynasty

It is the influence of religious belief on clothing that increases. With the rise of Buddhism and the formation of strict monk ranks, religious culture permeates clothing, shoes and hats in various forms and means, and expresses a specific meaning with specific patterns or symbols. This phenomenon also affects folk costumes, such as the appearance of Tibetan robes with the color of imitation cassocks and decorations with religious symbols and Buddhist magic weapons.

In the Ming Dynasty, the relationship between the central government and Tibet was further strengthened. The Ming Dynasty set up the headquarters of the Uz Tibetan capital and the headquarters of the Duogan capital to govern the Tibetan areas in today's Tibet, Gansu, Qinghai, and western Sichuan, and often rewarded the upper nobles in the Tibetan areas with a large number of brocades, silk, and jade. From the tribute of Tibetan areas, textile articles such as Pulu, Mao Ying, Zuli Ma and Tieli Ma account for most of the tribute. It shows that the textile industry in Tibetan areas also had a great development at that time. The textile industry is the basis of clothing development. Another good condition for the development of the Tibetan clothing industry in the Ming Dynasty was the large amount of tea horse trade between the Central Plains and Tibetan officials and civilians, which imported a large amount of cloth, silk, satin and textile products to Tibet. These trade was unprecedented in any previous era.

In addition, the art of Tibetan opera in Tibet in the Ming Dynasty had a great development, and the clothing art, which was inseparable from the art of Tibetan opera, naturally rose rapidly. In addition to the daily clothes of aristocrats in history, Tibetan opera costumes also developed another kind of highly exaggerated costumes and a large number of masks. And these costumes and masks are configured in strict accordance with the status and identity of the drama characters, and serve their personality characteristics. This kind of clothing is gorgeous and exaggerated, focusing on expressiveness and strong decorative effect. It successfully put Tibetan clothing on the stage of drama after artistic treatment, adding new blood to Tibetan clothing culture. At the same time, it has greatly promoted the development of Tibetan drama, dance, art and other arts.

The Qing Dynasty was an unprecedented unified multi-ethnic country in Chinese history. During this period, the culture of all ethnic groups in China has been greatly developed and gradually shaped. It is most closely related to today. Tibetan clothing culture is no exception, so we will focus on Tibetan clothing culture in the Qing Dynasty, and further explore the structure, artistic characteristics, aesthetic characteristics, and production technology of Tibetan clothing culture, in order to deepen the characteristics of Tibetan clothing culture.

Differences between aristocratic and folk Tibetan robes

In terms of hierarchy, there is no fundamental difference between the structure of noble Tibetan robes and that of folk Tibetan robes. The difference is mainly manifested in texture and pattern. The noble clothes are fine in texture and exquisite in pattern. Generally, there are python satin robes, with yellow, red, blue, green, white and purple as the keynote, and with "inter hope" patterns (dragon, water, fish, cloud, etc.) on them. This robe is often worn by officials of the fourth grade or above when they visit the Dalai Lama or hold ceremonies on major festivals. The "Cunza Baimagagaga" robe (lotus phoenix brocade robe) is a kind of satin robe with lotus and phoenix patterns. It and the "Cunza Baima" (lotus satin Mongolian robe) are ordinary Tibetan gowns for officials of four grades or above. In addition, there are Tuanhua brocade gowns, "Qujin" gowns, etc., which are precious Tibetan gowns of senior nobles in cities such as Lhasa and Shigatse. The historical records on the clothing of Galenpo Luonai in the 18th century provide us with precious materials for the clothing of the upper class nobles and local government officials at that time. According to the situation reflected in the book, the upper clothes of the nobles at that time usually wore large necked, slitless and small sleeved clothes with five colored brocade texture, with leather as the lining. On major festivals, people wear python robes, sable shawls, big coats, gold silk belt around the waist, pocketbooks and other decorations, cowhide boots, hair, and beads on the left ear? Wei 6? Composite? Guarantee? Thumb? Changing from one pixel to another? Exactly 1. Time The water level is very low? Enthalpy? Vendor (1)? People?? A href="#">Except for the flat top hat, the other costumes are roughly the same as those of Polonai. In addition, they also carry bone plate fingers and rosary beads in their hands. Literati insert an iron slip like a scabbard around their waist, which contains stationery such as bamboo stick pens and Tibetan ink bottles. During the festival, these subordinate officials tied their hair into a bun or two buns, wore wingless white gauze hats (Tang Dynasty Jinshi hats), gold turquoise earrings on the left ear, coral on the right ear, and wore a large collar, narrow sleeve, short brocade dress with otter skin edging. The cuffs were connected by brocades of five colors, and the waist was tied with large red ribbons. These aristocratic costumes are still popular today, except for the wingless white gauze hat and the iron cylinder for stationery.

According to the records in Tibetan Annals, the civilian men's clothes at that time were Tibetan gowns with large necks and no underpants. The texture is pulu, silk, etc., regardless of color, they all wear flat hats, with bone board moves on their hands, waist belt or Mao Huo hair belt, prayer beads in their hands, knives and other accessories. In the way of dress, there are some differences between the noble and the common people. The noble men's robes fall to the instep and are tight; The common people's robes are generally raised to the knee, and the upper body is loose, which is convenient for holding things and activities. When working, take off the two sleeves of the robe and tie it on the waist.

The attire of aristocratic women

During this period, aristocratic women's costumes were more gorgeous. The Biography of Polonai, written in 1733, recorded that Polonai's wife's wedding dress was: wearing a smooth and soft dark blue skirt, covered with God's blue robe, and the blue corrugated folds were decorated with peacock collar flowers. His feet were covered with barreled boots made of silk brocade, his waist was tied with a belt with jewels inlaid and silk spikes whirling, and his arms were tied with gold and conch bracelets. The middle finger and ring finger cover are inlaid with jewels. The neck is adorned with a red amber necklace. On the chest are short collars of well-defined coral, rose jade and amber, and long necklaces of pearl jade in wreaths. The hair is divided in half and combed on both sides, with pearl and jade buns in the middle and small braids scattered behind, which are full of gold, silver, pearl, coral and gems. In addition, he also wears a triangular bazhu headdress, and there is a huge turquoise stone on the top of the bun, which is really full of jewels and dazzling. This kind of dress is representative of the ladies' festival costumes in Weizang.

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Women's usual dress

In addition, women's usual clothing at that time was generally: wearing a pointed cap with red and green velvet on the top, wearing a black and red cross pattern wool skirt, and wearing a bond mat. The jacket is a waist length short jacket with small sleeves, and its texture includes wool, satin, cloth, etc. Wear a square velvet shawl, a silver coral ring in the hand, a silver bracelet in the left hand, and a two inch wide tridacna ring in the right hand. It is said that this ring must be worn since childhood to keep the soul from getting lost after death. Earrings are mostly made of gold and silver inlaid with turquoise, and have hooks on them. The above pearl coral string is hung on the hair, and the lower pearl coral string is hung on the shoulders, which is basically similar to today's Tibetan women's headwear. In addition, both rich and poor should wear two rosary beads. The rich should wear large wax beads. In addition to the silver pearl inlaid stone chest ornaments, they must wear a Buddha box. The rich also wear "Ba Zhu", which is worth thousands of gold.

From the above clothing situation, the performance of hierarchical clothing differences in Wei Tibetan areas has gradually changed from hierarchical differences to rich poor differences. This trend was further developed in the middle of the 18th century. The Biography of Polonai recorded that at the end of the 17th century At the beginning of the 18th century, the clothes of the nobles and civilians in Shigatse said: "At that time, the Tibetan people lived and worked in peace and contentment, and maintained the ancient fashion... The officials in Shigatse wore a scarf and hat made of Jiashi Jia, and the earrings were beautiful like the reflection in a lotus pond... The civilians wore a top knot or loose braids, and the bottom of the clothes was full of wrinkles," and then the author said "This is not the case today. The costumes compete for novelty and beauty, and they are imitated. Just as the water will lose its original luster once it is polluted." The author's anxiety about these so-called "rites collapse and joy is bad" situation just shows that the clothing differences between different classes were narrowing. Therefore, the gorgeous costumes of the above-mentioned Polonai bride are not uncommon in today's Tibetan women's costumes. Especially the luxurious headdress such as "Bazhu" has become one of the common clothes of modern Tibetan women. This trend has been continued, and the commercialization of modern clothing has strengthened this trend. Before the liberation of Tibet, German Heinrich once recorded the prosperity of clothing business on the streets of Lhasa. "(Lhasa City) There are many kinds of goods, from needle and thread to glue thread... felt hat style Xiang is very similar to the wide brimmed hat worn by Europeans Ethnic form It's natural and harmonious to wear the cap with their national clothes. "The commercialization of this kind of clothing is undoubtedly the result of the narrowing of the difference between clothing grades.

Regional differences

In addition to the differences in class, festival and season, there are also great regional differences in modern Tibetan clothing, especially in women's clothing. Like many ethnic groups in the world, Tibetan women's clothing is much more complicated than men's. Perhaps people of all ethnic groups have expressed their love for beauty and even the wealth and pride of their families in women's clothing. Make women's clothing become one of the main characteristics and differences of national clothing.

In addition to the Xigaze and Lhasa costumes mentioned above, the main types of Tibetan women's costumes in Wei and Tibetan areas are the types of Gongbu areas and Ali areas. The most typical feature of clothing in the industrial fabric area is that both men and women wear "Guxiu", that is, wide shoulder sleeveless gowns. The man's "Gu Xiu" is tied from the waist, and the hem is not above the knee, while the woman's "Gu Xiu" is not down to the feet. In addition, women's headdresses are mostly chignons.

The lamb fur robe is popular in Aripuran, which is fine made and elegantly decorated. The added fabric of the lamb fur robe is mainly woolen cloth. The collar, sleeve and bottom of the placket are inlaid with otter skin, and the coat is made of silk. This is more distinctive in the whole Tibetan area. However, the most exquisite and unique garment of Pulan is the women's "peacock" dress, which is closely linked with the good name of Ali Peacock River, The head of the peacock at the source of the river is like a peacock. It is a symbol of beauty and auspiciousness. In order to make the peacock like beauty and auspiciousness exist on this land forever, women's decorations imitate peacocks and become popular today. The hat worn by women is called "Tingma". It is a round simple hat made of pulu with brown and blue colored lines. The bottom edge of the hat is cut into a braid. Women's earrings are made of coral and pearls, about 15cm long. The unique hat and earrings symbolize the peacock's crown. The women's back is "Gaiba", or back apron. "Gaiba" is made of pure white smooth goat skin. The middle part is inlaid with thick Pulu lines with circular patterns, showing the peacock's back. The surrounding area is inlaid with brown blue color Pulu with circular patterns, which is the graceful peacock wings, The three forks at the bottom are peacock's tail feathers. Some "Gaiba" leather covers are sandwiched with colorful silks and satins, which are more extraordinary, just like a peacock in front of you.

Tibetan women's headdresses in Aba, Gannan Xiahe, Qinghai and other places in Sichuan Province are mostly "broken braids", with their hair combed into dozens of thin braids, which are connected with black silk thread or coffee colored silk thread below and fall to the ankle. Drop a piece of hard cloth about an inch wide from the head, and decorate it with true and false amber, agate or silver bowl shaped ornaments. From the arm, there are about a foot of hard cloth, hanging down to the ankle, decorated with bowl shaped silver ornaments or several rows of silver and copper dollars, up to dozens. Unmarried women wear two braids, with red cloth on the braids and several rows of red coral on the top. Some women decorated the parietal forehead with large turquoise otolith strings. A silver hook or iron or copper hook is hung on the belt, which is called "Xueji". It was originally used to hang the milk bucket during milking, but later it became an ornament. There is another round or peach shaped silver ornament called "Longguo" on both sides of the belt, with a long hole at the lower part and a red silk and green belt attached, which is quite elegant.

The Tibetan gowns of women in northern Tibet are trimmed with many wide ribbons, side by side at the back. Generally, they are black, red, green, purple, etc., and the number is mostly five to seven. Some of them are decorated with leather. Most Tibetan women in Huangnan wear round necked gowns. The robe hangs down to the feet, and the waist is tied with silk or cloth colored belt. Women in Zhuoni, Gannan and along the Taohe River mostly wear pomegranate hats (dome, with a pomegranate shaped head at the back) and "chimney caps" (the top is like a chimney, and the brim is divided into two sections, which can cover the wind and rain.) They dress like Manchu cheongsam, wear a vest, and wear a self woven blue and white belt with geometric patterns on the belt. The most prominent one is the coral Bama, which is made of coral and worn on the head in the shape of a hat. Because of the warm climate in Zhouqu, Gansu Province, women often wear thin and wide black gowns, with a short coat and a wide black or blue belt around their waist. The bottom of the gowns is tied in the belt. The pants are very wide, and the pants are tied up. Some are also tied with leg wrappings. Most of their heads are wrapped into two inch wide headscarves. The chest and upper waist are decorated with a whole piece of coral in series, and a large round silver plate is worn on the chest, Draw and decorate national patterns.

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Some costumes have historical sites

The clothing in some areas has obvious historical relics. For example, the Jiarong Tibetan in the agricultural area of Aba Prefecture in Sichuan Province has kept some Qiang clothing characteristics because of their long-term living and interaction with the Qiang people. For example, they generally wear long clothes, which are mainly blue and black, with an apron on the lower body, silk woven ribbons on the waist, and short collarless coats made of sheepskin or wool in winter.

Roughly speaking, due to different natural conditions, production methods and history, Tibetan costumes are extremely rich and colorful, with many differences, which are too numerous to enumerate. In some regions, there are great differences between counties, townships and townships. At present, more than 200 types of clothing have been found, ranking first among China's ethnic minorities.

In addition, in addition to the aforementioned hierarchical differences, the Tibetan clothing system is mainly reflected in the changes of women's clothing in festivals, major events in life, and ceremonies. Festival costumes are more colorful and heavy than usual. This is well known, but the great difference between adult etiquette and women's clothing before and after marriage is a major feature of the Tibetan clothing system. When Tibetan girls in rural areas of Qinghai reach the age of 15 or 17, they should change their childhood braids into adult braids. In addition, it is necessary to choose a lucky day, which is called "Dai Tiantou" (the girl's coming of age ceremony). Monks should be invited to hold a religious ceremony first, and then adult women should update the girl's clothes and worship the Buddha, ancestors and parents. At this time, the female family members sing "Bow to the Heaven, Ancestral Song". At the age of 15, Tibetan girls in Haixi should wear "Malton" (hair jacket), which is made of cloth or silk and decorated with many silver shields and coral. The newly married Tibetan women in Golog should wear large sleeved coats and gorgeous vests. The sleeves of the coats are inlaid with a rainbow like welt. Similarly, Tianzhu Tibetan unmarried women's hair covers are much shorter than married women's hair covers, while Tibetan women in Aba Prefecture began to wear hair and braids after they were 16 years old. Unmarried girls in Zhuoni, Gansu, weave three braids together, while married women weave them in the middle, not on both sides, but from the waist down, they weave them together.

Some adult costumes still retain the ancient style. For example, after marriage, Tibetan women in Songfan agricultural area of Aba Prefecture should have small tubes and thick cloth bags inlaid with amber on their heads. This kind of headdress is said to be unique to ancient women in Ali area of Tibet, and is rare in the whole Tibetan area today.

In addition, there are some special systems for funeral. For example, the widowed wife in Aba Prefecture, Sichuan Province, should take off all the ornaments to be filial, and hide them in the box for one to two years. And during this period, do not wear bright and gorgeous clothes to express the memory of the dead.

Different natural environment, folk customs, production and lifestyle determine the various regional costumes, seasonal costumes and folk costumes coordinated with this; The development and transformation of history, politics, religion and economy determine the vertical development of Tibetan clothing culture and the diversity of all kinds of hierarchical clothing and professional clothing. Therefore, Tibetan clothing culture is rich in connotation, complex in structure, diverse in levels and distinctive in characteristics.

Clothing grade

Tibetan people, regardless of gender, generally wear long gowns and belts. Men pleat the back of their robes, and women pleat the left and right sides of their robes. They also have the habit of pleating on both sides of the back of their gowns, regardless of gender. However, in the past, the dress of officials had special symbolic significance in terms of their positions. There are also various types of clothing, such as the details, advantages and disadvantages of noble, ordinary and common people.

The daily and celebration costumes of the monks and secular attendants. The two Zhasa wore a seal coat and a winter coat with otter skin on the side of the yellow silk gown on weekdays, and wore a seal coat of Mongolian colorful clouds or silk and Russian satin on each celebration. Winter clothes, as mentioned earlier, are trimmed with otter skin at the collar of the jacket. Wear dark red colored boots in winter and summer. In summer, wear a gauze hat, and in winter, wear a big hat with a golden top and a tip inlaid with ruby.

Dakenbu, the chief dining officer, the chief sleeping officer, the chief supply officer, etc., wear the Zedang Huaji skirt and the waistcoat (the top grade material mentioned earlier) regardless of their status. Wear woolen serge in summer and ordinary drapes in winter. Wearing single drapes on weekdays and brocade inlaid Yang Ji slips on celebrations, not accustomed to wearing satin gowns. The undershirt, close fitting lining and belt are the same as the front. The gargle with silver vial and other decorations made of antique satin and Russian satin are the same as the front. Wear cloth colored boots in summer and cinnabar colored boots in winter. The hat worn by Horseback L is used to wearing the same Sel hat worn by the Great Lama. The big secretary and the small Kampo also wear a Zedang serge skirt and a waistcoat. In winter and summer, the poncho, woolen serge, Durma, undershirt, close fitting lining and belt are the same as those above. The uniforms at ordinary times wear a dress called "dressing clothes". The sleeves are printed with yellow and red silk gowns with gold patterns such as six phase Zhang Ga and Sanskrit, and gargles made of ancient satin and Russian satin with silver vials. Wear cloth colored boots in summer and vermilion colored boots in winter. Each Daqing ceremony wore Yangdun, Yangkui made of ancient Mongolian satin and Russian satin, and gargles made of the same material. The chief secretary wears a pen and ink container, which symbolizes the pen container and ink bottle. The pen holder is made of the sting gold-plated style of Dege and the brocade wrapped in ink bottle. The silk thread is woven into a hoop with rainbow patterns. The woven silk thread is inlaid with gold six character patterns of heroes and blue ribbon. Wear cloth colored boots in summer and vermilion colored boots in winter. In winter and summer, wear the same top decorated with coral as the front on horseback.

The attendants in the lower court usually wear large gowns made of yellow satin or red and yellow satin and black and yellow lining clothes. They wear silk belts with knives and bowl covers. pouch. The big blue satin gowns sewn by Sixiang for others were worn on the celebration ceremonies. In summer, wear a hoop hat, and in winter, wear a green and white fur hat. Wear a pair of purple red velvet boots regardless of winter or summer.

Wearing the uniform of an inner attendant in Mongolian clothes, wearing a red and yellow gown with a clay colored jacket, wearing dark brown underwear, wearing a silk belt, wearing a gauze hat in summer, and wearing a big hat with blue and white marbles as top beads in winter. Whether winter or summer, wearing a pair of purple red velvet boots is the same as the above.

Full time officials of the imperial court wear Zedang Huaji or Tibetan Huaji skirts, wool Huaji in summer, Tibetan Huaji technical sheets in winter, yellow silk sweaters and close fitting inner garments, belts, decorative satin gowns, and silver vases of satin gargles. On each celebration ceremony, wear an antique satin or Russian satin sail jacket, brocade trimmed cloth colored boots in winter and summer, a Selvedge hat in summer, and a Great Xia hat with a blue and white top in winter.

The uniforms of the full-time staff of the lower court usually wear a yellow satin or red yellow gown and a dark brown close fitting coat. The scarlet belt is equipped with a knife, a bowl cover, and a purse. The big gowns of blue four phase satin or turquoise blue color satin are worn in the celebration ceremonies. In summer, I wear an iron hat, and in winter, I wear a fox skin hat with blue jade as the top bead. Wear a pair of purple velvet boots regardless of winter or summer.

Ordinary Zai Zhong (an official name) wears a Tibetan serge skirt and a woolen serge or Tibetan serge technical sheet, a yellow silk undershirt and a close fitting lining, a satin gown decorated with skills regardless of official position, and a sail jacket sewn with antique satin or Russian satin on each celebration ceremony. Wear a pair of cloth colored boots trimmed with vermilion colored woolen cloth in winter and summer, and wear Bula or Jietang's colored boots when traveling. In summer, wear a Selre hat, and in winter, wear a Great Xia hat with coral or fake coral on top of Pearl.

Ordinary civilian officials usually wear a large black or purple or turquoise gown such as Xiema or woolen cloth or woolen serge, and a dark brown close fitting coat. A vermilion belt is equipped with a knife, a bowl cover, a purse, and a moustache and ear jade. On each celebration ceremony, wear a red yellow or pottery color, yellow green robe, a woolen coat, a Buchu hat in winter and summer, and a pair of purple woolen boots.

Wear the usual uniform of Mongolian bureaucrats, and wear scarlet robes such as serge and woolen cloth, with a clay colored or brownish red mandarin jacket on it. At the ceremony, a large gown with purple satin or blue black jacket is worn, and a clay colored or red yellow jacket is put on it. Wear a dark brown undergarment, a silk belt, a gauze hat with a crystal top, and a pair of purple woolen boots.

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In addition to the rank, the top of the above three monks and secular officials can be gold or gilded according to their own financial resources and interests.

The general county head and Kanbu level, Kanqiu (deputy Kanbu) uniforms on weekdays, the monk's clothes wear Zedang Huaji skirts, in summer wear Maohuaji technical sheets, and in winter wear Ladak's Durma technical sheets. For summer boots, wear purple red cloth boots with gold satin or decorative patterns and blue and black silk threads, and use the red shoulder pole as the sole. Wear vermilion colored boots in winter. The gargle with antique satin and purple yellow satin is hung on the waist, and the silver bottle relief worn is made of fire gilded and inlaid with rose jade, and the tether is woven with vermilion silk thread. The left and right sleeves of the satin coat made of wool serge or zedang serge are made of red and yellow satin with six phases, Jinzhangga, Sanskrit, dragon and phoenix patterns, the collar and sleeve are covered with red and carefully photographed, and the inside is a yellow or red and yellow body lining made of large silk. The winter and summer clothes of the fourth grade official wear a yellow kukusain gown with otter skin edging in winter, a white silk tunic with a turned collar inside, and a knife, bowl cover, and purse on a vermilion silk belt. In summer, wear an iron ring hat decorated with vermilion silk ribbon. The ribbon woven with silk thread at the back of the hat is inlaid with gold or gilded heroes' six signs. A bottle shaped top decorated with gold or gilt on the tip of a hat and decorated with a coral top symbolizing identity. In winter, wear a round full fox fur hat with black leather inside. The top is the same as the top. The right ear is decorated with Amari or Songshi, and the left ear is decorated with gold, jade or pearl. Tie your hair with vermilion silk, and tie the inlaid golden hair box on it. Boots, wear a pair of vermilion colored boots in winter and summer.

If the housekeeper is a monk, he or she should wear brownish red woolen cloth or serge, dark red Xiema or a big robe surrounded by fine felt in summer. Wear felt hats in summer and Daqing hats in winter. Wear boots made of Indian soft leather or yellow cloth.

If the treasurer is a layman, he should wear purple woolen serge or woolen cloth, a big robe with Xiema's face, and a close fitting coat of white silk inside. Boots made of Indian leather or black striped velvet. Wear a Bodo hat (yellow bowl hat) and long eardrops.

Deacons, housekeepers and mail clerks wear woolen cloth or purple Hanhua Ji. The large robe of Xiema, wearing Indian leather or Brahma. Black velvet boots, a bordeaux hat, and long eardrops. The above are the regular clothes of the main people.

For Zong (county) and Zhashilunbula Zhang's New Year celebrations and the costumes related to the horse running activities in the third day of the lunar calendar, Zong Canqiu usually wore the monk's clothes covered with colorful cloud dragon satin or cotton satin, Russian gold silk, purple printing and other new ancient satins, and wore the same face gargle and winter and summer hats. When driving a horse on weekdays, wear a Seltie hat in summer, a Seltie hat with a yellow woolen padded ring surrounding a fine leather border in winter, and a Great Xia hat with a coral top emblematic of identity on a gold or gilded bottle seat. When riding a horse on weekdays, the master's horse cover was used to prepare the saddle and the saddle cover on the saddle, which was trimmed with vermilion wool cloth and silk ribbon on the left and right sides of the saddle, the saddle mattress was equipped with materials such as hand cushion or strip velvet, the bridle of brass and three sets of bridle were decorated with two layers of horse tassels, and the saddle cover of the two servants, which was trimmed with blue or blue black cloth on the riding boots with cushions, was not used to prepare the saddle mattress. Wearing a red tassel hat, the master's saddle and mattress are all the same except for the yellow color.

The monk housekeeper of Dongzong (city) Kanqong wore a large clay colored robe with a vermilion belt, a knife, a bowl cover, a purse, a red tassel hat, and other boots.

The secular treasurer of Xizong (city) wears a clay colored satin robe, a vermilion belt, a knife, a bowl cover, a purse, a bordo hat, and purple woolen colored boots.

When the deacons celebrate the New Year in the patriarchal clan, they wear large gowns of four phase satin or colorful cloud dragon satin, and put on a coat of vermilion woolen cloth. In other monasteries, they wear large gowns of clay color and silk belts, knives, bowl covers, purses, pen and ink bags, bordeaux hats, and purple woolen cloth colored boots during the New Year celebrations and horse running activities in the third day of the lunar calendar. The housekeeper and the postman also wore large yellow pottery colored robes. Wear a knife, a bowl cover, a purse, purple woolen boots, and a Bordeaux hat.

On the third day of the Tibetan New Year, when we went to watch the horse race, the patriarchs dressed up and rode in line. Zong Canqiu's attire is the same as above except for monk's attire. But in terms of the hat, he wears a hat like a rapper's hat, with four ears, leather trim, and Japanese satin back ribbon. The top is the same as above.

Folk costume

For the clothing of the upper class, the rich and the ordinary people, the ancient Tibetan people only wore locally produced pulu and leather clothes. Later, under the influence of the gradual development of goods exchange with Han and India, the clothing categories of the Tibetan people were enriched, such as the winter and summer clothing of the upper class nobles and businessmen and other rich men and women, the Pulu Xiema and the second class Xiema in Tibet. Pulu, woolen, Hanhua Ji. Cloth velvet, satin, big silk, silk, cocoon silk and lynx skin, fox skin, lamb skin clothing. The boots of the male family name include Indian leather and black striped velvet, boots made of Burra material, long Jane boots, suede boots and tube boots. Women's flip sole boots and tube boots cast with woolen cloth are not only decorated with patterns embroidered with various colored silk threads, but also have the custom of pearl lining on the top grade boots called "lady" and "lady". The belt on the corner of the rainbow pattern apron made of Tibetan Xiema, woolen fabric and velvet yarn is decorated with various gold filigree, and the belt is made of various silk. Some are also made of silk thread shoelaces. Noble gentlemen wear brocade interlining on the satin fabric in winter, and large and narrow hats trimmed with sea dragon and otter leather on the Russian satin bottom, Others wear a kind of hat called longevity golden silk satin, felt hat and other high-quality fabric hats, and a few men and women of middle-class families also wear Xiema and second-class Xiema, fine Pulu, woolen cloth, Hanhua serge, embroidered silk, silk and other fabrics. Next, most people wear fine Pulu and Kaimao Pulu, coarse Pulu, thin wool serge, cotton silk serge, false silk, brocade thick silk, cocoon substitute silk, tulle, wool brocade, kara and other fabrics and men's shoes; A few people wear Indian leather and Bura, striped velvet boots and leather shoes, while women wear Tibetan boots, tube boots, Tuli and other woolen cloth and Pulu suit inlaid boots, wear belts made of thick silk and cloth, and women also wear aprons made of gold silk satin on the fabric of Xiema and Xipulu.

In terms of clothing for ordinary people, a few people wear clothes of fine pulu and woolen cloth, while most other people wear clothes of fine pulu and Kaizhuan pulu, thin wool pulu, felt, cocoon substitute silk and ordinary cotton cloth. Some people wear leather shoes or Indian leather boots, while most others wear leather boots and woolen cloth, Tibetan boots of Pulu leather, copper pipe boots Stickers, straw boots, leather boots, socks, belts and shoelaces for cloth, aprons embroidered on thin Pulu and general Pulu, and skirt belts woven of silk thread and wool. Wear hats made of coarse face in winter and summer.

The shape of the bead crown worn by the women in the Later Tibet is that two bamboo bows are wrapped with vermilion silk thread at the left and right ends, and the middle is wrapped with vermilion silk. Because it is woven together with the hair, it was worn on the head day and night in ancient times. It was built with something called "wood pillow seat". The headdresses of the women in Laorizhuo near Shigatse City are a little different from others. They have a single balon with jade and coral called "Juesheri", which is wrapped around the left and right ears like a halter on a sheep's head. The head back piaoxu and balon ornaments of the Tibetan women were inlaid on the pearl crown, and were woven with jade, coral and pearls on the vermilion bottom. There are some barons with noble ladies in the back, who have the habit of decorating double heads and threads.

Balon, the headdress of the upper class wealthy family, has an ornament called "pearl capsule", which is decorated in front of Balon. The pearl section in the middle is decorated with four corals, with two jades inlaid in the gap. The pearl section on the left and right sides are decorated with two corals, and the gap is inlaid with jade digging. The other pearls strung on the left and right sides of Balon's front are a cover, The front and rear piaoxu is interlaced with Huyu and coral in the front, and the left and right sides are bordered with rose jade, and the upper diggers and coral in the back are inlaid with four gold rings. The decoration called "horizontal extension" is a headdress with three gold lattices inlaid with jade on the pearl flat decoration strung on the left and right of the pearl crown. The headdress in front of the pearl crown in celebration and in full dress is said to be "scorpion waist chain". It is an ornament with ribbon of silver chain and a piece of "private bag Yukou" on the back. It is a small bag sewn with brocade, It is decorated with silver rims and silk threads. The hooks are made of copper or gold.

The middle class people's Houxu and Balong also have miscellaneous ornaments of turquoise and coral. The front left and right sides of Balong are decorated with pearl ornaments of a generation, and the front and rear rings of Houpiaoxu are decorated with turquoise mixed with gold and silver. The "horizontal extension" of the clam shell is inlaid with loose otolith with a brass lattice. Some people use gold-plated brass lattices and gold and silver mixed necklace boxes to decorate the necklace with several pairs of coral, nine eyes, and blue and white martens. They wear earrings made of coral and turquoise, and hand pots made of jade and jade. A few people also wear gold rings inlaid with turquoise. There are also beads of coral sideburns and ivory ink.

In terms of wearing and decoration, if the girl is not married, a piece of blue and white marquee is decorated on the back ring of Piaoxu and Baron to symbolize that the girl is not married. Some girls have a braid decorated with an ornament called "tassel", which is inlaid with a piece of blue and white marquee on the decoration mixed with turquoise or coral. Therefore, the person who needs to meet the bride will choose a mate by looking at this sign.

As for women's trousers, according to their own conditions, they wear cocoon silk, flannelette, safflower cocoon silk, brocade, velvet and other kinds of cloth pants, and most women in the countryside use safflower as underwear. They are called "cylinder" pants in a style similar to today's skirts. Some wear a sleeveless shirt that can be buckled on the shoulder and matched with "cylinder" trousers. Women wear a piece of brocade or woolen serge on their chest. The collar edge of the chest protector is made of square gold satin or brocade inlaid lining called "belly wrapping". The upper level monks and laymen wear a piece of "corset", which looks like a cinnabar colored robe and is folded on the left and right sides to the waist. It is a kind of accessory for making the coat more beautiful and not deformed.

Clothing category

Tibetan men's clothing can be divided into three categories, namely, rules (labor clothing), rules (dress), and rules (samurai clothing).

1. Gauge

With the change of climate throughout the year, the rules also change. In spring and summer, people usually wear cotton or white cocoon silk waist length shirt with brocade inlaid on the upper body. The left front is large and the right front is small. Then they wear a round neck and wide sleeve gown made of cotton and wool, called Chuba in Tibetan, Generally, Chuba is tied around the waist with Jiachaila (colorful big flower belt, decorated with red, green, blue, purple and other colorful stripes, about 2m long and 20cm wide), two sleeves are crossed through the front abdomen and tied behind the waist, and the edge of the sagging part of the long-distance run is at the knee, forming a bag belt at the waist to hold the carry on items. The trousers are wide in waist, opening and legs, and wear short Tibetan shoes and felt hats. The clothes and trousers in autumn and winter are made of cattle and sheep leather products, or are sewn with artificial cut cashmere. Chuba is also made of wool or sheepskin, wearing a leather hat with ear protection, and wearing long leather shoes or self-made hide shoes with leather soles and plush uppers.

2. Redundant gauge

The redundant rules are festival costumes and ceremonial costumes, Material selection Expensive and exquisite, it is a boutique of Tibetan clothing. Men's oversized blouses and blouses. The inner garment, which is called bag gauge or double lining in Tibetan, is mostly made of silk and fluorescent silk fabrics. The colors are generally white, purple and light yellow. The front facing high collar, the front edge and the collar are inlaid with gold or silver edges, and some of the silk fabrics with various colors and patterns are used as fabrics. The inner garment is all wrist length sleeves; The outer garment, called Jiaogui or Collapse Winter in Tibetan, is made of brocade printed with patterns of longevity, lotus and other flowers. It is the same style as the inner garment, but sleeveless. Chuba collar, cuffs and hem are decorated with otter skin, leopard skin or tiger skin. The width of the edge is about feet, and the narrowest edge is five inches, Some of them also need to be made with white fur on the edge The pattern of "" is pressed with traditional brocade which is narrower than the edge along the edge, and then inlaid with gold and silver flat thread. Some are inlaid with three layers of edges, the bottom layer is otter skin, the top layer is marten skin, and the top layer is tiger skin. Almost the whole lower hem of Chuba is covered by the edge. The pants are made of white fluorescent silk, and the feet wear Tibetan shoes with fur soles and plush uppers. The jewelry for men mainly includes Gawu, a waist knife inserted obliquely, a beautiful wavy tail pleat at the back of Chuba, a dragon inlaid silver knife, and hidden boots. When you put on your feet, you will be amazed by the handsome image and fierce temperament of a Kangba man.

3. Binding gauge

Wearing a fox fur hat, a Pulu or a woolen chuba trimmed with mink fur, a long knife at the waist, and a amulet and a long and short gun, it shows the masculine beauty of the warrior.

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