Looking For The Fashion Elements In National Costumes -- The Uygur Costumes With Flowers And Brocades

Uygur ethnic group Clothes & Accessories The form is clear, the pattern is diverse, the color is bright, the pattern is simple, the craft is exquisite, its development and evolution law is clear, some clothing styles are quite similar to the clothes unearthed in Xinjiang, reflecting the historical precipitation of a region and a culture. The aesthetic acceptance paradigm with distinctive national cultural characteristics also reveals the inheritance and regional customs of national costumes.

After the liberation, especially since the 1990s, with the improvement of people's living standards, Uyghur clothing has undergone great changes. Suits and trendy clothing have become increasingly popular among Uyghur people, especially young men and women.

Hat Features Traditional Hat

There are many types of Uygur hats and headwear. The most distinctive Uygur men and women like to wear hats in Uygur costumes, because hats not only have the function of preventing cold or heat, but also, more importantly, as a need in life etiquette, are required for social networking, visiting relatives, friends, festivals and gatherings. Uygur traditional hats mainly include fur hats and flower hats.

Leather hats are mainly used to keep out the cold and are mostly made of sheepskin. There are also fox skins, beaver skins, rabbit skins, marmot skins, sea otter skins, marten skins, etc.

There are mainly the following types:

1. White vomit

It is mainly worn by young men. It is shaped like a deep bowl and made of sheepskin. The fur is inside and the leather plate is outside. There are four thick water caltrops on the top and a circle of white or black fur on the lower edge.

2. Atushitumak

The cap is made of black velveteen or velvet, shaped like a bowl, lighter than Kashtomak, and its lower rim is made of marmot or marten.

3. Selpichetomak

The shape is the same as the white hat, but the cloth is made of velveteen or velvet, with thin edges, and made of mink or other animal skins. This hat is generally worn by middle-aged and elderly men and religious people.

4. Ouretumak

The hat is about 30cm high, trapezoidal and columnar in shape, with two layers inside and outside. It is made of ordinary wool leather as the lining and black lambskin as the surface, and is worn by both male and female farmers. The female hat is mainly worn by elderly women.

5. Kaimuchettomak

The brim is wide, sewn with sea otter leather, and the top of the hat ring is made of black or coffee velveteen and velvet. This hat was worn by ladies in the past, but now it is worn by the elderly.

6. Kurakcha

It is a kind of leather hat that Uygur people often wear in winter. Its basic shape is round, and its two side flaps are long, so it can move up and down. One of the main types of Kurakcha, the lamb skin Kurakcha, is a more distinctive one. It is made of lamb skin, and the color part is black or gray. Its two sides cannot be turned down, but it is just a decoration; Kalipak (felt hat), inner felt and outer cloth, etc.

The leather hat was originally worn in winter and has the function of keeping warm and cold. However, the Uygur people have the custom of wearing fur hats in summer, because it also has the function of keeping the head skin moist and preventing heatstroke.

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Featured flower cap

Uighur flower caps are not only made of excellent materials, but also of excellent workmanship. All Uighur craftsmen who make small flower caps have a set of "unique skills". The patterns and patterns of flower hats are ever-changing. The patterns, patterns and patterns of different flower hats are also related to the regional environment. The flower hats in various places have obvious local characteristics. There are many patterns of flower hats in Kashgar, especially male ones. The pattern of "Badan wood", which is mainly white on a black background, has strong color contrast and elegant style, is formed according to the lines of decorative patterns. It protrudes from the corners to show a three-dimensional sense, but black and white color is deeply printed in people's minds. The hats in Hotan and Kuqa areas are made of high-quality velvet fabric, together with velvet weaving patterns of different colors, which are interspersed in a dense way, resulting in a unique flavor. Some hats are decorated with beads, gold and silver pieces. The beads are round and shiny, and the factors of the pattern structure are skillfully used to make the hats colorful. There are also flower hats with protruding patterns on the top, delicate colored threads and bright colored balls, which are the favorite of the bride. The flower caps in Turpan are famous for their bright colors. The bright red patterns with green patterns are like beautiful flowers. The flower caps in Yili area not only highlight the flowing sense of lines, but also have the advantages of elegance and generosity. The flower caps are flat, shallow and round, with simple and general patterns.

1. Badum hat

It is a pattern that is deformed with almond stones and added with patterns. Its patterns are rich and diverse, mostly white flowers on a black background, solemn, simple and generous. Uygur men, young and old, like to wear this kind of flower cap.

2. Tash dry flower hat

Originally a popular kind of flower cap in Tashkent, it is now a general name for the geometric pattern flower cap of lattice embroidery, which is loved by the majority of young men and women. Generally, the color contrast is strong, and the flame shines like a blooming flower.

3. Plaid cap

That is to say, the cap with flannelette is like carpet flannel, and the embroidery is laborious. It is relatively small, but it is widely loved by young men and women.

4. Mampole bonnet

There are four groups of round patterns on the top and four groups of rectangular or round patterns on the side. It is the most common kind of flower cap that can be worn by men, women and children.

5. Chiman bonnet

It is also a common flower hat. The hat is framed by a Chinese character. The flowers are interlaced with branches and leaves. The patterns are connected by branches or separated by lines, forming a number of positive and negative triangles and rhombic patterns. The hat surface pattern is arranged like a carpet, also known as Qimantashkandopa, which is worn by women.

6. Zaire bonnet

Namely gold and silver wire reel Embroider Hat is a kind of flower hat that girls and women like best. The embroidered flowers are mostly three-dimensional, shining in the sun, giving people a sense of dignity.

7. Ma Ri Jiang Duopa

That is, beaded bright flowered hat, which is one of the most popular flowered hats worn by girls and little girls.

8. Gold flower cap

It is decorated with pressed and carved gold pieces on the hat. It was a very valuable hat worn by rich women in the old days, but now there are no people wearing this kind of hat.

9. Turpan flower cap

It is a popular flower hat worn by men, women and children in Turpan, Shanshan and Toksun. Its characteristic is that the flowers are big, the bottom is empty, and the color is particularly red and bright. Only the elderly in this area still wear this gorgeous and eye-catching hat. Most use green as the background color.

10. Ili flower cap

It is a kind of generous and elegant hat popular in Yili area, which can be worn by both men and women. Its pattern is fine and its color is soft. The five petal flower cap is called "White Sitaradopa" in Uygur. The general flower cap is made of four pieces of patchwork, and this kind of flower cap has more pieces than the general flower cap. It is a kind of flower cap worn by boys and girls. The cap is small and the pattern is simple. Most use red as the background color

11. Chapac hat

The melon skin hat is a kind of cap worn by men, old and young, in southern Xinjiang in summer. Sometimes it is used as a lining hat in winter, mostly plain, and some have water lines at the mouth.

12. Selipsitumak

That is, the tall flowered hat, also known as Sairandopa, is mostly worn by religious clergy and tied with Sailan. 13. Akdopa is a white hat with white thread patterns. It is a kind of hat worn in worship.

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Shoe characteristics

It is a traditional habit for Uighurs to wear shoes and boots, which has a long history and can be traced back to more than 1000 years. Their ancestors used to be nomadic people who roamed in the rich land of the western frontier fortress in the mountains and snow collars. Wearing boots is convenient for riding and shooting, also known as warm and cold resistant "foot clothes". "Yiya" says: "It is also a gift to dress the feet." Most Uyghur shoes are made of cow leather. Most workers living in agricultural and pastoral areas make shoes by themselves. There are also folk craftsmen who make shoes and boots. They have mastered a whole set of traditional skills from making wooden lasts to selecting leather, tanning leather to making leather shoes and finished boots. They are skilled and skilled, no less than the workers in the shoe factory. Due to the stability of economic life, convenient transportation and reasonable prices of shoes and boots, modern Uighurs also go to shops to buy shoes.

Uighurs living in cities and towns like to put rubber overshoes on their shoes and boots, which is a good health habit. Whether visiting relatives or friends or in their own rooms, they always take off the overshoes in front of the house to prevent dirt and dirt from entering the house. There are generally two types of overshoes, one is round toe overshoes, the other is soft soled leather boots overshoes.

"Boots" are long waist leather shoes. According to the Book of Sui Dynasty Etiquette Annals 7, "Boots are also hooded shoes". The history of wearing boots of all ethnic groups in the Western Regions is long and has been followed up to now. It adapts to the cold climate of Xinjiang and is also a kind of shoes created for the convenience of riding and grazing.

The Uighur ancestors have experienced a long life of hunting and nomadism. In order to adapt to this life, they have developed the custom of wearing "jade turks" (leather boots), which is still loved by Uighurs today. The shoes of Uygur people mainly include "Yutuke" (leather boots), "Quruke" (leather shacks), "Maisai" (soft boots), "Kaixi" (leather shoes, similar to overshoes, mostly worn in summer), and "Kalasi" (overshoes). The shoes and boots of Uygur people are mostly made of cow and sheep leather. In the past, women's boots of Uygur people were embroidered with various patterns, which were very beautiful. Uighur men and women like "jade turks" (leather boots), and middle-aged and elderly people often wear "buy games", with "kalasi" (overshoes) on the outside. In the past, Uighurs used to wear the "Kalasi" made of leather. Now, the "Kalasi" made of rubber is widely used, which can not only keep warm, but also protect boots and shoes. When entering the house or the mosque hall, take off overshoes to keep the room clean. In cold places, wear felt tubes in winter.

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Men's wear characteristics

Uygur clothing is generally loose. Men's clothes are relatively simple, mainly including Yaketec (long coat), Tony (gown), Paiximet (short jacket), Nimucha (blouse), Kuynake (shirt), waist scarf, etc. The Uygur people collectively call the coat Yuhuan. These clothes are mostly made of black and white cloth, blue, gray, white, black and other natural colors of Tuanhua silk.

In the past, Uygur men usually wore long coats that were over knee, wide sleeved, collarless and buttonless. When wearing them, a long waist scarf was tied around the waist. The waist scarf can act as a button and pocket. They can carry food and other sporadic items whenever they want. Waist scarves vary in length, up to more than 2 meters long. There are also square waist scarves, which expose an angle at the waist when tying. Most waist scarves are dark colors such as black, brown and blue. Usually, waist scarves are not very particular. The waist scarves of festival series are usually very bright, some are printed and some are embroidered. The Uygur men wear the Yuhuan and tie the waist scarf, which makes them look unique. In the past, rich people still wore long gowns outside Yuhuan. Most Uygur men's shirts do not open their chests, and they reach to the knees and buttocks. The shirts of young people and children are decorated with lace. Religious professionals often use long white cloth to wrap their heads, which is called "Sailan" in Uygur. They don't wear a belt around their coat, but wear long gowns, which is obviously different from ordinary people.

Chellona is a modern Uygur national style men's dress, which is mainly in the "Chellona" style. Although similar to the ancient form, modern national costumes pay attention to the texture of the fabric, which is loose, fit and elegant. The style is usually long coat over the knee, long sleeves over the fingers, no collar, no buttons, and a waist scarf is tied tightly, comfortable and warm.

"Chekman" (long gown) is a popular traditional cloth named "Chekman", followed by "Baihe San", which is a fine and soft fabric for sewing "Chekman". The old ones are cut in black, dark brown and other fabrics, which looks simple and generous. The lower part of the body is covered with blue trousers, covering the feet. The exquisite men's trousers are decorated with flower patterns at the corners of the trousers. Most of the continuous patterns are composed of stems, tendrils and branches of plants, which makes them elegant and beautiful.

Young men's clothes appear energetic. In the late season, white cloth is sewn into a collar style clothes. The collar, chest and cuffs are decorated with lace, and the waist is decorated with "Bota" (waist towel), whose name is "Tony" or "Yeketec". The clothes are not only elegant and cool, but also very convenient to wear. They are also paired with blue trousers and leather boots, The whole body is dressed in a rich national costume, which shows more youthful vitality and fitness.

The Uygur pants used to be big crotch pants, which are simple in style, and can be divided into single pants, briefs and cotton pants. They are mainly made of various fabrics, as well as sheepskin and dog skin. Men's trousers are usually shorter than women's trousers, and the trouser corners are narrower. Most Uighur men wear trousers.

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Women's wear characteristics

Uighur women like to wear skirts, and they like to choose bright silk or wool to cut skirts. The common materials are red, big green, golden yellow and other colors, and they wear light colored skirts inside. They prefer the original "Adelaide Silk" sewing dress of their own nation. Every holiday or festival, from the street market, the countryside, the mountains, everywhere you can see wearing different colors and patterns of silk flower skirt made of Adelaide. The patterns of silk are like colorful clouds, bright in color, rich and gorgeous, which shows the spiritual talent of the creator. The Uighurs call it "Yubofu Nengkanatiguri", which means it brings people the flavor of spring and good wishes. Women's trousers have large corners, long pants and bare bones.

There are many styles of Uygur women's clothes, mainly including long coats, short coats, waistcoats, vests, shirts, trousers, skirts, etc. In the past, Uygur women generally wore colorful dresses and trousers. Most of the skirts are tube skirts, with the upper body as short as the chest, the lower body as wide as the legs and stomach. In addition to making dresses with fabrics of various designs and colors, Uygur women like to use Adlai silk, which is a kind of silk specially used for making dresses and has a unique national style. Uygur women usually wear coats or waistcoats over their dresses. Pants are worn inside the skirt. Pants are usually sewed with colored printed fabric or colored silk, and monochrome fabric is used as the pants material, and then some flowers are embroidered on the pants corners. There are two main types of women's long coats: closed collar and straight collar. Young women like to wear bright colors such as red, green and purple. Older women like to wear black, blue, dark green and other round flowers, loose flowers silk or cloth. The clothes are decorated with copper, silver, gold round ball shaped, round sheet shaped, olive shaped buckles, and are particular about embroidery at the collar, cuffs and other places. Women's short coats can be divided into three types: jacket with opposite front, jacket with right lapel, and jacket with half open right lapel.

Uygur people not only like to grow flowers, but also like to embroider various flower patterns on clothes. Uygur women like to embroider at the neckline, chest, cuff, shoulder, trouser leg, etc. The men's clothes are also embroidered with patterns, mainly on the neckline, chest, cuffs and other embroidery of the shirt with a collar, which shows the rich decorative beauty of the Uygur people.

Uygur women like to wear earrings, rings, necklaces, brooches, bracelets, etc. Girls have been wearing earrings since they were five or six years old, or even earlier. She likes to use "Ottoman" juice to stroke her eyebrows. In winter without Ottoman, she uses "Surmai" (graphite) or calamus to stroke her eyebrows to make the originally thick eyebrows appear darker. She uses "Hainaiguri" (henna fragrans) to dye her nails, "Yilimu" (elaeagnus angustifolia gum) to wipe her hair, and red flower petals to make rouge and lipstick. Cherry and rose juice are mixed to apply on her face and lips, These are the most ideal natural cosmetics commonly used by Uygur women.

Every festival, visiting relatives and friends, Uighur women will bring colorful and dazzling jewelry with them, put on bright dresses, and carefully decorate, adding more infinite charm. These customs express Uygur women's pursuit of beauty. The Uygur people regard long hair as their beauty, and most women like to wear long braids. In the past, unmarried girls liked to wear a lot of braids. After marriage, they changed to wear two long braids, but they still kept bangs and hair with symmetrical and forward curving sideburns on both cheeks. The ends of the braids are scattered, and a crescent shaped comb is preferred on the head. As a decoration, there are also double braid discs tied into a hair knot. Due to the acceleration of the modern life festival, changes in living conditions and environment, changes in aesthetic values and other reasons, young Uygur women with long braids in cities are rare now. However, in the Uighur cultural tradition of women's beauty, the view that women's thick black hair and thick braids are beautiful is still deeply rooted.

Among the Uygur costumes, the women's costumes of Yutian, Minfeng and Qiemo in Hotan area are different from those of Uygur women in other places and have their unique characteristics. They wear white scarves on many heads, and a "Taripak" (small hat) on the right side of their heads. This hat has a big mouth and a small top (about 8 cm in diameter). It is shaped like a bowl and looks like a flower from a distance, which makes them interesting. Their Changyu loops (coats) have seven symmetrical blue silk patch patterns arranged in sequence, and the sleeve collar and bottom have single edges of silk of the same color. In addition, there is a matching collar half open pullover shirt. On the right side of the shirt, nine pieces are arranged in a fan shape, embroidered into a wide strip pattern. There is a wide edge at the mouth of the round collar, a croissant pattern and broken patterns are embroidered at the bottom mouth, and there are two ropes of the same color in the middle of the collar. It is said that this kind of clothing is a kind of arrow clothing worn by men and women fighting and hunting in ancient times. The seven patterns on both sides were originally arrow bags, which later evolved into decoration pattern 。

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