The Evolution Of Suit, Suit, Vest, Trousers And Men'S Three Piece Suit

The three piece refers to the western-style clothes, Western-style vests and trousers that are popular worldwide.

Western-style clothes, also known as Western-style clothes, in the broad sense, as the name suggests, "West" refers to "western" and "western", specifically referring to Europe or Europe and the United States, that is, western style.

In narrow sense, in our country, many people have lapel and barge head, three pockets, and the jacket under the hip line is called "suit".

The birth of the three piece of men's wear in the 1.17 century 60s

social context

In the middle of seventeenth Century, France under the Bourbon dictatorship replaced Holland as a European business center.

After his family affairs, Louis Xiv (1661-1715), he made a self assertion, actively developed industries, encouraged artistic creation, set up a large scale of civil engineering, designated people to eat, wear and live in order to demonstrate his authority with extravagance and luxury.

The magazine "Melkyula Galan", founded in 1672, disseminate the news and fashion information of the French court to the public, and fashion painting is also appearing and circulating. That is to say, from this point on, Paris has become the birthplace of fashion in Europe and the world.

At this time, men's clothing was developed from the practical character of the Holland wind age to the excess of women's strong decoration.

However, after 60s, men's clothing returned to the public, and there was a public aristocratic costume. This is the men's suit made up of justaucorpr, Best (veste) and J Ullyot (culotte).

1.2 style description

Quieu J Teker (justaucorpr) means tight fitting.

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Evolved from the long coat of knee length and wide coat casaque, called kakuk cassock, as a spacious coat.

Kozak was originally a military uniform. In 1660s, he was used for men's clothing in the age of -70, with loose body and two kinds of sleeves and sleeveless sleeves.

Later, the waist was gradually closed from the sides of the back, and the sides were plucking to make the hem open. The back seam was opened at the bottom pendulum. This opening is called center vents, which is convenient for riding.

By 1680s, the waist was more fit, renamed Cole.

This formed the basic model of men's clothing before the middle of nineteenth Century.

In addition to the waist and fan-shaped expansion of the hem, Quieu J Teker's pocket position is also very low, the whole center of gravity moves downward.

The sleeves are also closer to the cuffs, and there are a pair of sleeves on the cuffs.

No collar, front door is lined with buttons and decorated with gold and silk silk.

Cole used velvet or brocade, and gold and silver thread embroidery was very luxurious.

Despite the fact that Cole has many buttons, he always wears buttons when he is wearing clothes. He occasionally buckles one or two buttons on his abdomen at a very short time. This is probably why the buttons on today's suits do not buckle or button the first button of the abdomen.

The buttons here are purely decorative, and their materials are also very luxurious, with gold, silver, jewelry, etc.

Cole is dressed in Best (veste, English called waistcoat). Best, as an indoor dress and family uniform, must wear Best outside Best when he is out or attending a formal evening party.

Best wore long sleeves at the beginning, and his clothes were shorter, and then grew longer (just shorter than Cole). He closed his waist and broke his back, and the front door clasp was decorated with many buttons like the one of Cole.

Because Cole was too extravagant and forbidden to become simple.

So people put gorgeous fabrics in Best.

This kind of Best was mainly popular in the latter half of the seventeenth Century to the beginning of eighteenth Century. After that, it became a sleeveless vest. It was called "Gilet", and its clothes gradually shortened to modern western vest.

The lower body, kuriroth, combined with Best and Cole, has the length of the Hebrew Cole's hem, or slightly longer hem, and tied with ribbons under the knee.

The material is the same as that of the coat, but generally it has no embroidery decoration.

There are embroidery patterns on the stockings below.

The development of 1.3 cotton and the popularity of India flower fabrics

In the latter half of the seventeenth Century, Britain, which controls East Asian trade hegemony, began to rule the cotton industry in India. Meanwhile, the cotton industry began to develop in the United Kingdom.

After the industrial revolution, Britain suddenly overcame the advanced countries of the past cotton industry, India and Peru, and its woven cotton cloth began to replace India's handwoven cotton cloth in the world market.

In the luxurious indoor clothes of men and women in seventeenth Century, the India flower cloth played an important role.

In early seventeenth Century, European countries fought fiercely.

The trade hegemony of Holland was the main producer of wool fabrics. The main producers of silk were Italy and Spain.

The French silk weaving industry developed significantly in seventeenth Century and surpassed Italy and Spain.

India's printed cotton was introduced from Asia to Europe under such a market background.

In short, the relationship between distant trade and colonialism in the East after seventeenth Century has brought many new changes to European fashion.

Cotton fabric from Asia and its printing and dyeing technology make Europeans

Raw materials began to break through the geographical limitations. Meanwhile, European clothing culture also spread through the colonies to all parts of the world.

Three suits of men's wear in the 2.18 Century

In seventeenth Century, men's three piece sets gradually developed into modern men's clothing in eighteenth Century.

2.1 social background

In the middle of the eighteenth Century, the industrial revolution that originated in Britain accelerated the process of fundamentalism in Western Europe.

The industrial revolution began with the textile industry which has a direct bearing on clothing.

In 1733, Jan Kay invented the flying shuttle; in 1764, James Hargreaves invented the multi spindle spinning machine; in 1769, Richard Aklet invented the hydraulic spinning machine.

In the early eighteenth Century, due to the progress of chemistry, water resistant dyes with abundant chromatic number and non washable color appeared, which greatly enriched the post-processing methods of clothing materials.

These technological innovations made Britain known as "the factory of the world".

However, in terms of culture and art, France is still the center of Western Europe.

2.2 style description

In 1760, men's jackets began to get rid of the excess amount and their clothes didn't stretch out so much that they could be more practical to relieve the tight waist. This jacket was called frac (frock, England). The biggest feature of the jacket was that the front door fell from the waist line to the bottom. This is the first step in the swallowtail of the next era and the ancestor of the morning dress.

There are standing collar or lapel, and the back is open. The sides of the garment have a princess line from the armhole, and the buttons on the front door buttons are not buckled. The sleeves are made up of two pieces. The sleeves and wrist and cuffs of the sleeves reveal the ruffles of the shirts, and the sleeves of the folded sleeves disappear. However, the buttons of the fixed sleeves are retained for now, and the sewing technology of the men's suits has been basically formed.

The material was still silk, and by 1780, Woolf, the naive and practical flock became the stereotype of men's clothing. Britain also established the dominant position of men's clothing.

The Best inside shortens to the waist line or a little longer, and Best's sleeves are gone.

Gilet, the predecessor of the modern Western-style vest, appeared.

This three piece made up of Flak (frac, frock, gilet) and J Ullyot (culotte), called Flak Abie (frac habill) in Louis sixteen era, has been used as a social dress for upper class men in nineteenth Century.

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Three suits of men's wear in the 3.19 Century

3.1 social background

From the end of the eighteenth Century to the beginning of nineteenth Century, many European countries were in a turbulent period. The pursuit of revolutionary unity and independence continued to take place. People began to despise the nobility and noble privileges of the aristocratic aristocracy, instead of pursuing simple and simple classical style, which accelerated the men's wear out of the feudal yoke of noble status and the pace towards civilian.

Compared with the previous period, the biggest change in men's clothing styles in this period is the understanding of the aesthetic trend of men's demeanor. That is, men's clothing pays more attention to fabric, cutting, craft rather than decoration, and gradually abolish the excess and complicated decoration on clothing. This aesthetic concept is quite close to the aesthetic consciousness of modern people, and people begin to pursue the rationality, comfort and sport function of clothing.

In the early nineteenth Century, when Napoleon was in power, the court men's clothing was decorated luxuriously and varied in color. From the development trend of the whole clothing, the ordinary men's clothing was no longer as luxurious as the past, and began to tend to be simple.

In the United Kingdom, men's clothing is made of wool or nickname, with fine quality, relatively sophisticated cutting techniques, elegant decorations, and Si Wen's dignity. The lower part of the coat is bent from the waist to the lower part of the arch. The narrower the dress is, the last it hangs to the knee joint. It is completely different from the outspread wrinkles in the early eighteenth Century. Instead of shorts, men's clothing is developing in the direction of men's rustic, capable, dignified, and smart.

From the early nineteenth Century to the middle period, despite the constant conflicts and social unrest among European countries, these years remained a period of prosperity for Industry and the whole society. The luxury of clothing is still everywhere in the upper classes.

By 50s, the main countries in Europe and America and other countries in the Americas were very rich. People were well-dressed and elegant.

France took the lead in completing the industrial revolution and established its leading position in the world.

Napoleon III and her empress lived a luxurious life. They indulged in the society all day. They had great influence on the fashion and the popularity of European countries at that time, and led the development of fashion.

There are many different clothing components for men and women. They are considered as basic components of different time, different occasions and functions in a day, and they need to be changed several times a day.

Men's clothing becomes formal and stylized, fabric tends to be thick and color tends to be steady, forming several fixed clothing components.

At the same time, due to the development of industrialization, the invention of machines, the growth of population and

The establishment and development of the noble people can not only wear expensive and luxurious costumes, but also the middle class whose number and wealth are rapidly expanding.

The general bourgeois male service is still based on a combination of the composition of the husband, the Pang Talong and the Carl, and with less conspicuous elegance. The ideal aesthetic standards of the gentlemen in the new civil society began to take shape.

3.2 style description

Flak continued the pattern of last year's wide lapel with wide lapel, and the front piece was cut off from the waist section. In 1810, the rear hem became shorter and the waist became lower.

There are two kinds of clothes for the lower limbs. The general bourgeoisie is the mainstream of Pang Talong, but the conservative people and the court aristocrats wear tight J Ullyot.

Pang Talon modelling also changes with time atmosphere and personal hobby, sometimes it is thin to stick to legs, sometimes fat and fat.

From 1811 to 1815, gentlemen's formal dress was made of silk, tightly wrapped in kurrot, under white high tube stockings, wearing high priced silk made of fike and ornamental Kare, with plaits on his head.

J Ullyot then withdrew from the stage of history with the collapse of the first emperor with the aristocratic interest and the end of his luxurious court life.

It is very important for Pang Talong to add a bright colored dress in the combination of plain and tonal colors, which is very important.

In general, men's clothing has become stylized in nineteenth Century, and the style changes are no longer significant. With the change of styles in the details of collar, shoulder, pocket and buttons, the men's clothing has been constantly improved.

More and more attention is paid to the connotation, so the technology of cutting and making is becoming more and more important.

As the life of the wearer becomes more and more outdoors and the change of people's wearing concept is becoming comfortable, clothing gradually develops towards leisure and comfort.