Li Jianhua: Thousands Of Years Of Traditional Chinese Silk Culture
< p > China Fashion Association held a "a href=" http://sjfzxm.com/news/index_c.asp "> 2012 China dress convention < /a > on November 2012 23-24 at the Beijing International Hotel Convention Center.
The following is a speech by Li Jianhua, President of Hangzhou Wan Shi Li group.
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< p > Li Jianhua: Good afternoon, everyone.
The top two have talked a lot from the angle of clothing, which is very good, and I have learned a lot.
Now I would like to take another perspective to see what it is in China's traditional silk culture for thousands of years, and pform and upgrade it to you.
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< p > you know silk is a fabric. With the development of our industrial economy, the fabric has undergone rapid changes.
So we are thinking about what silk can do besides making clothes.
Until 30 years ago, silk was still our main fabric. Today we are not wearing it.
We have 30 enterprises in Hangzhou, 99% are not, and now 30 of them are not, especially in some areas of silk development and Hangzhou area.
So we have been established in the 75 years. In the 37 years, we are still sticking to the silk. If we stick to traditional silk, that is not what we do today. What do we do? Our leaders are very concerned about silk. Our founder is also the two NPC deputy. We are also the five hundred largest Chinese private enterprise in the nine years. Chairman Jiang gave a good help to the inscription, including Secretary Xi Jinping, who is also very interested in our silk. They are not interested in silk, a href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > dress < /a >, but silk culture.
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< p > I remember very clearly that during the 06 years when I visited the company with Secretary Xi, we had an exchange of two hours.
He raised a question at that time. If there was no silk in Hangzhou, what would Hangzhou be like? China had no silk. What would China do in the future? I said, if Hangzhou is not West Lake, if Hangzhou does not have West Lake, will people still come to Hangzhou? If there is no silk, Hangzhou is not so beautiful. We are so beautiful that West Lake is like a 18 year old girl, but our Hangzhou silk is like a 60 year old lady. Nobody likes it.
This is a question that must be considered before our silk people.
So Chinese silk should give it a new connotation.
This is our report to Secretary Xi's participation in the 08 Olympic Games in China. The Olympic Games have a plan for Chinese silk. The secretary gave the Olympic Games to the Olympic Games and gave the platform to show the silk. This is Zhang Dejiang's visit to us.
So we are thinking about a question about what silk is.
In fact, in China's market, there are three elements in China that are unique. First, Chinese characters, silk, ceramics, these three things, like ceramics, like Egypt, and some others, but Chinese characters and silk are unique to China, and there is no doubt.
The origin of Chinese characters is oracle bone [micro-blog]. We found 200 words related to silk. Before 2800, it was very important. In oracle bones, there are days, places, people, things, and silk accounts for 35%.
So many of us have something to do with silk. This is why I call the president of the Harvard University in the United States when I was lecturing. I don't call it anything else. It's always very particular about the Chinese characters in China. He is very particular about Chinese men. When he is 18 years old, he will use silk to tie his hair up. So the seal character is a person, a person tied up his hair, this system is a group of people, and it becomes a group of people. So the two words of President mean that it is a charming thing to make an unorganized thing into a neat thing.
For example, why the word is added to the word, because in ancient China, people should be put up with silk.
The seat of the mat is an ancient chair wrapped in silk to show respect for the guests. The main seat is the chairman, wrapped in silk.
So a lot of words are very extensive in our daily life. It is a very unique part between Chinese characters. We also set a book called silk making, which is about Chinese characters and many kinds of Chinese characters.
Absolutely, why hang around.
Is the color of silk good, absolutely absolutely means color, a person holding a knife, put silk into two segments, this is called.
I have a book specially called making silk.
Chinese characters in China are closely related to silk.
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< p > Second, I would like to talk with you about the traditional dragon and dragon in China. The dragon is actually heaven, that is, the dragon, the ground is the silkworm, so the silkworm calls the insect. The insect is a kind of bone and worm called silkworm from the heaven and the earth. It is spit out from the mouth and is the origin of the Chinese nation.
We talk about agriculture, and there are silkworms in it. What does it mean? A song above is a pen for raising silkworms. The next insect is agriculture. In ancient times, we talked about farming civilization. Farming is farmland, rice and cotton. So the most important thing in farming culture is these two things. The origin of silkworm is the origin of agriculture.
Therefore, silk is indispensable in the traditional culture of China.
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How did the four great p inventions come into being? It also has something to do with silk.
Papermaking, when it was in ancient times, was hanged. In the year one thousand BC, paper cutting was actually made. Cai Lun actually changed silk tissue into plant fiber. So why is this paper not a piece of wood, a piece of paper used for writing, or paper.
I have a special television series called silk and China's four great inventions, so in this paper, in our Shuo Wen Jie Zi, paper is short staple fiber.
The second printing process, in fact, was the printing of the invention of Cai Lun before us.
The printed matter found in Mawangdui has been in print for one thousand years. In fact, the movable type printing that we have talked about only prints the printing technology on fiber paper, so the printing of silk is earlier than movable type printing.
So the movable type printing we talked about today evolved in silk.
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< p > compass, we said that Shen Kuo invented the compass before he invented the compass. He did not start with silk. But why did he say that the invention of the compass had something to do with silk? This is fine. In the seal script, it is a hanging. A scissors smoked a piece of silk and smoked a finest thing.
So today we are talking about why our compass is related to silk. If we did not have the finest silk to tune it up and put it on the bowl, it would not be possible for us to have extensive use of compass when fighting.
So no silk is still in the bowl, so it is impossible to use it.
Is it possible to use cotton, hemp, a href= "http://cailiao.sjfzxm.com/Matertial/show/default.aspx" > cotton < /a > after we got to China from Southeast Asia after the Song Dynasty. At the earliest time, linen was used. So far, linen is not as fine as silk. Besides silk, no other fibers are finer than silk.
So in the museum, you can see that when the compass was invented, it was silk or silk.
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< p > Fourth gunpowder, what is the relation between gunpowder and silk? Gunpowder is the gunpowder of our alchemy, and the technology of alchemy has not been successful in ancient times. But they drew alchemy technology and process on silk, because there was no paper at that time, there was no way to record the process of making alchemy, so after Song Dynasty, our song dynasty invented gunpowder according to the technology of alchemy above our silk flower.
These things, I think the relationship between the four great inventions and silk highlights the status and role of silk in our Chinese civilization. It is not a simple fiber and fabric.
Therefore, the origins of the four great inventions of ancient China are closely related to silk. It can be said that silk made an indelible contribution to China's history.
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< p > silk is the earliest commodity. If you look at how this coin comes from, the currency of this currency is silk, and it is also a special silk.
Our statistical use of currency was earlier than silk, so in fact, it was first used. Before the Warring States period, it began to use silk in the 1600 B.C. for silk trading.
In the later stage, if you don't use silk, you don't accept silk as a currency. It's a crime. Many of the records are there.
There is no doubt that silk is traded as our currency. It has been made clear.
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< p > so when the time came to the Sui Dynasty, silk was not used as silk money until the Ming Dynasty.
So in the Tang Dynasty, we can see that copper coins and cloth and silk are all currencies.
Fifth, silk is a valuable symbol.
We talk about the history, the culture of the emperor, the culture of China and the culture of the world. The royal culture is a very important thread of our Chinese culture. In the middle of our royal culture, we see the Dragon robes worn by emperors, sleeping nets, hats and hats, all of which are made of silk.
This silk is absolutely essential in the royal culture.
I am going to tell you about Dragon robes today.
The emperor's Dragon Robe is a very classical culture expression of our Chinese clothing culture.
Why is the Dragon Robe? Dragon, heaven is dragon, the ground is silkworm, the dragon is huge when it is in heaven, and the time is very small. Why does the Dragon Robe show that the emperor must be able to bend and stretch, and can be big and small.
There are many cultures in the Dragon Robe. On the left is an axe. If you want to do well, the emperor must be as clear as an axe.
On the right is a public character, and the emperor must be fair in doing things.
There are two monkeys on the lower right foot of the Dragon Robe. As emperor, we can not forget our ancestors. We are monkeys.
In fact, our Chinese clothing is a cultural costume. We have learned a lot. But what is the connotation of our Chinese clothing? What kind of cultural connotation should our Chinese clothing contain? It's a Chinese costume. I think this is something that our costumes can think about.
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Last year, P, I talked with our foreign minister. He said he would visit Japan with the main leaders of the country, and they would visit the emperor.
Japan reported that our emperor was wearing kimono today. He suggested that Chinese leaders wear Chinese clothing. Our diplomats said through half a month's efforts that we did not wear Chinese suits.
I want to tell some of my own experiences. Actually, our Chinese culture is extensive and profound. But our costumes are thinking about what we can do because they are copying the West. So our Chinese clothing can absorb some nutrition.
When I came to speak today, I also turned over the costume with Chinese elements, and told us that Chinese costumes could join hands to ponder this problem together.
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< p > this is the Chinese royal family. Look at the royal family in the West. The bed he slept in, including the pillow, is basically the same with our Chinese royal family. So it is wrong for us today's Chinese to have no luxuries. No luxuries are ever wrong. We were luxury goods in Europe before 2000. Otherwise, after seven thousand or eight thousand kilometers to Europe, why would the price of the price turn over? Why? Because silk is the Chinese luxury, the best Chinese fabric and the best clothing.
I believe the reason why our Chinese silk road can continue for thousands of years is a very important reason.
Let's talk about the silk road that we all know. There are two silk roads in China. One is the land Silk Road, and the other is the maritime Silk Road. Zhang Qian sent to the western region and called the Shang road before 1850. By 1850, the geographers in Germany changed the name to the silk road. Before that, they did not pport silk, pport tea and so on to Europe, and Europe shipped to China. The 50% China trade was traded on this road.
In the eyes of Europeans, silk is not only a commodity, but also a representative of China. So silk is pformed into silk road, and silk represents the Chinese nation. So what do Chinese have? Silk and Chinese characters, these two are the same origin from Chinese culture.
There is a strong shock in the eighteen reports. The competitiveness and creativity of culture are the power of a country. The power of creation and the strength of Chinese national culture are the strength of our country. So where is the strength of the Chinese nation? I think silk is a force.
Our current Chinese do not necessarily understand that our silk people want to disseminate this culture. We have published 6 books about China's silk culture, and hope that our generation will not forget our silk culture.
When we learn western civilization, our Chinese culture is broad and profound.
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< p > > another function of silk is cultural value. In 80s, silk fabrics were made for garments and silk was an export commodity. Actually silk was not only in China, but also in Japan. After the two World War, silk was a starting stage. It made a lot of silk products to revitalize the economy, so today we talked about silk as well.
So at least in China's 5000 years of culture plays a very important role, is the cultural treasure of the Chinese nation.
When we Chinese go abroad, everyone will wear a silk scarf to our guests, which means that this is something unique to our Chinese people. But no one has said that we should give a chemical fiber fabric to others.
I think that around this thread, everything is in the lead to re lead a silk road.
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< p > silk is used by the emperor and used by the wealthy. Therefore, silk must be made of high-end fabrics and not worn by ordinary people. Therefore, we are going to do with the big brands and their high-end products. We must return to the temperament of the silk aristocracy. It is a luxury, which is no match for cotton and hemp. It is a fabric that has life, it can breathe and can maintain the skin.
So we will build one, you want to be a high-end garment, your top end material must be made of silk, so is the international market. So is China's future.
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< p > silk as a cultural product is a gift. As we have just said, in 2010, when we wore APEC clothes, Jiang Zemin and other comrades wore it. He represents China's history and Chinese culture.
Because we display Chinese culture, national costume and silk in front of the world.
This is the Asian Games, the Olympic Games award dress, blue and white porcelain China red, including the medals of the ribbon, China's first time with silk tune up, this represents our China.
This is when I told the leaders that we must have silk, and then they persuaded me to make a medals ribbon with silk.
They also made silk Fuwa, Chinese ties, and the lower left corner. All the invitations invited by the Chinese government to China to participate in the Olympic Games were made of silk.
Including the award dress that we saw before, the ribbon, invitation card, tie and fan of the medal are all expressed in silk. Therefore, it is the Chinese people's Olympic Games that we only use silk to express the Olympic Games. This sentence has been highly valued by the leaders of the country.
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< p > this is a special book we made. It was made of silk, and the 150 countries took part in the stone carving technology in World Expo and published it in silk books. The book was sent to the 150 heads of state by the Secretary General of the United Nations [micro-blog]. This is the first book in human history. The price of the book has now been very high. Collectors, because they printed 500 copies altogether, and the United Nations printed 150 copies.
If this book is made of paper, it can not be sent to the head of state, and can be done with silk. This is the pride of our silk.
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< p > this is the Asian Games. When an athlete appeared at the Asian Games, there was a Zen. So we took this as a volunteer silkworm, and we did the ceremonies of the Asian Games very ceremoniously and enthusiastically because of the reason of this silkworm.
If the scene below is not beautiful, this is very beautiful at the Asian Games.
For example, we have used a lot of concepts in the Universiade and the city sports meeting. For example, we are going to open this forum today, and we may have a conference. Maybe I will be more relaxed after listening to it. If you have something on your hands, you will be very enthusiastic.
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< p > we can do many schools. When Tsinghua University was 100th anniversary, the tie worn by the Standing Committee of the Tsinghua University in front of us was designed by LOGO of Tsinghua University. All the alumni of Tsinghua University came back to do the blue and white silkworms, one is the concept of crystal flower, and the other is the concept of ink wash Tsinghua.
This is the 100 meter long scroll made to Tsinghua University, because Tsinghua University was the predecessor of our Imperial Palace in learning, picking silkworms and raising silkworms, so we persuaded our Tsinghua University 100th anniversary to use silk concept.
This is the chronological certificate for the 100 pairs of new members of Tsinghua University. This is the Tang costume made by the headmaster of the 137 principals to attend the celebration of Tsinghua University.
In fact, we did a lot of things for Tsinghua University 100th anniversary, so the Tsinghua University also invited me to the school meeting. Tsinghua University did not use the concept of Tsinghua itself when celebrating the 100th anniversary anniversary of the Tsinghua University, but used the concept of "all things in our lives" because we did a lot of work.
So when we communicate with President Gu, the concept of silk is more reasonable.
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< p > I want to express that silk is a carrier, it can carry culture, can carry a lot of things in China, carrying the culture of an enterprise is an enterprise, and carrying the culture of a nation is something of the state.
This is the product we made to Nanjing University, to help them make a cultural product.
So now you want to be a cultural product, making silk is a very important expression.
We are doing some products with the government, this is the silk book we made, the Chinese and English plation, to George W. Bush, and the products made to Alibaba [micro-blog], making the images of the founder of the micro-blog [micro-blog] cartoon, and also their culture.
This is what we did for the merchants. We Li Hongzhang wrote a memo to empress dowager Ci Xi to play it. We gave it to China Merchants.
So silk is a product of culture.
This is a book written by Ping An Group, which is made of silk, and this is CCTV.
So we are now in the cultural industry, the world's top five hundred, China's top five hundred are our customers, become the expression of their enterprises.
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< p > third aspects, we have made silk and fabric into a new material.
As we mentioned earlier, we should advocate a new silk lifestyle.
This is the hall we made for the Great Hall of the people. Last month, the Shanghai cooperation organization held a meeting in the Great Hall of the people. We made a new interpretation of the Great Hall of the people with the concept of blue and white porcelain.
First of all, Miss etiquette, stools, costumes, chopsticks, are made of silk, there are many expressions on the table, this is the expression of our blue and white porcelain.
This is our own club in Hangzhou, and it is also expressed in silk.
This is a hotel in our Beijing office, a silk sofa, a silk stool, and a silk carpet.
We hope that in China's luxury goods, silk is a very important decoration material for luxury goods.
This is our Hangzhou East Railway Station, the railway station in Hangzhou can see this pillar, we all use silk to deduce.
Both sides of the glass partition are made of silk. We use silk embroidery and four Daming embroidery to enter Hangzhou. That is to say, silk is a decorative material, and it is an expression.
This is the most upscale reception room in Hangzhou, which is hand made by the fabric of song brocade on the wall.
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< p > so silk is China. We are committed to moving the world silk center to China. Silk is our Chinese thing. We hope that silk can go home.
This is an activity that our alumni association will do. It may look funny to us. We have Shi Yuzhu [micro-blog]. We want to express a concept that Chinese clothing should be expressed when it comes to the return.
So we also hope that our Chinese style clothing can be expressed in the world in the world.
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< p > this is some of our dissemination of silk culture, so finally I want to talk about so much, I want to express a layer of meaning, silk is a unique Chinese material, unique cultural symbols, so our generation, our silk people, especially our clothing personages, do not forget it.
But our silk materials also need innovation and creation.
But silk can not be compared with the fabric made of chemical fiber and linen.
Let me tell you two words: embroidery, splendid Chinese brocade, Hu Jintao's brocade, white silk, silk and silk, and two layers of meaning. Our brocade also represents the most expensive thing. If the silk is changed to cotton, the difference between silk and cotton is the difference between gold and wood. Silk and cotton are different things. It is gold, and it is wood.
Therefore, we should re recognize silk and re interpret silk. Chinese people should strive for it and strive for it.
Thank you.
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