A Brief Analysis Of Renaissance And Chinese And Foreign Dress Culture In Different Periods
< p > < < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > dress < /a > design area, the aesthetics of design almost come from the "a target=" _blank "href=", "target=" and "dress" culture.
Facing the clothing industry of the international metropolis, our fashion design concept is more developed in succession. We need to integrate various kinds of dress culture into the design concept. It is the two most important period in the Chinese and Western dress culture system.
In Europe, design pays more attention to external modeling and three-dimensional effect, because its three-dimensional degree has reached the ultimate beauty since the Renaissance.
In China, the design pays more attention to the meaning of patterns and colors, because the Chinese style of dress emphasizes the design of the pattern in the graphic design. Therefore, paying more attention to the cultural differences in different clothing areas is very important for the design.
The women's costume in European Renaissance and the Chinese women's costume in Tang Dynasty are the most representative garments in Chinese and Western history. Through their different artistic shapes, the aesthetic value of them is studied. This is of guiding significance for studying the cultural differences between Chinese and Western costumes, and the inheritance and innovation of clothing can also start here.
< /p >
< p > 1, European Renaissance and < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_h.asp" > Chinese Tang dynasty women's wear > /a > artistic modeling features < /p >
< p > (1) the characteristics of women's clothing in European Renaissance period < /p >
< p > Renaissance women's clothing refers to the modelling of women's garments from 15 to sixteenth Century. During this period, the bourgeois cultural movement took place in Western European countries. This is a great change in the history of human civilization - Renaissance, which means the revival of classical culture in Greece and Rome.
During the Renaissance, European dress culture had a profound impact on modern fashion design.
< /p >
< p > European clothing in the Renaissance was generally divided into < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_p.asp" > Italy < /a > wind age, German wind era and Spanish wind era.
< /p >
< p > Italy style women's dress is called Rob. It is a dress with a seam at the waist. It is V collar and also has a single collar. The chest is bare and waist high, and the sleeves are tied up like a lotus root.
The whole body is decorated with a beautiful fabric. It can be seen with white linen underwear and sleeves.
In rob, you can wear 20 or 30cm of Joe (high heel < a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > shoes < /a > figure two), all over the body are filled with gorgeous decoration.
< /p >
In the early days of the German style, the women's clothing imitated the fashion style of the Italy style wind, the low neckline, then gradually turned into a high collar, and there were many small pleats, the sleeves narrowed and narrowed, the center of gravity was placed in the lower part, the narrow shoulders, the thin waist, the fat buttocks, at this time the skirt's lower part began to expand, and the three-dimensional modeling of the dress became more and more obvious.
< /p >
< p > Spanish Wind dress is very exaggerated. Although it is very formal, it will be stiff. There is a lot of stuffing on the dress, so that the beautiful shape of the female will be filled by the filling. The collar is lace collar with lace (Figure three). This is the unique decoration of the Renaissance. Gail and corset Karl pic are the two styles of women's clothing.
Among them, the British style Gail is the most exaggerated (Figure four), which is based on French skirt padding plus a circular lid, so that the skirt can expand the area can be very large, coupled with the extremely narrow waist, clothing looks for extreme exaggeration.
< /p >
< p > (two) the modeling features of Chinese Tang Dynasty ladies' dress < /p >
Jacket, shirt, underneath the tight skirt, after the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, it was fashionable to wear men's clothing. In the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, the style of women's clothing was gradually weakened by the influence of Hu clothing, and the dress was widened and enlarged, and the sleeves were enlarged. Although the imperial court had a clear stipulation on its loose scale, it was forbidden to use it repeatedly. At this time, women had been very fond of loose shape. The most important thing was that women boldly exposed their bodies at this time, and the neckline of the neckline could see the cleavage. The main way of dressing was to wear short skirts or shirts, wear long skirts, wear long skirts, wear silk, wear a half arm, and wear a half arm, head Dai Jinyin, enough to ascend silk shoes (Figure five). < p > the appearance of women's costume in Tang Dynasty was unique in the feudal system of China in the 2000.
In the late Tang Dynasty, long skirts and silk shoes began to be popular. In general, the styles of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty were different. In the early Tang Dynasty, they were narrow sleeves and narrow skirts and long skirts. In the Mid Tang Dynasty, they wore wide sleeves and big sleeves, and boldly exposed their bodies. In the late Tang Dynasty, the influence of more and more clothing on clothing was becoming smaller and smaller.
< /p >
The similarities and differences of dress culture between < p > two and two periods < /p >
< p > the European Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty in China are the most developed periods of their respective economies. The Renaissance is an era of flourishing flowers, talents and artistic achievements. The Tang Dynasty is the most powerful and prosperous era in the whole feudal society of China. Confucianism had a profound influence on the thoughts at that time, and it was at the height of its prosperity.
< /p >
< p > (1) the same point of clothing < /p >
During the Renaissance, the social nature of the clothing in the Tang Dynasty was the same as that in the Tang Dynasty. Europeans attached importance to the identification of clothing, and there was a clear difference between the nobility and the civilian wear. P
From the clothing style, there are obvious differences between clothing materials and clothing colors, while China pays more attention to the "defense class" and "the noble and the inferior" from the appearance of clothing.
China has a perfect dress grading system. It has obvious requirements not only in terms of material quality, but also in clothing and totem.
Therefore, it is the same for Europe and China to use clothing materials, fabrics and colors to symbolize and identify social status.
< /p >
< p > on the other hand, Europe and China have the same characteristics in the aesthetics of dress culture. The driving force of human dressing is to please each other and attract each other.
The shrinking waist of the European Renaissance, the exaggerated skirt is designed to attract the attention of the opposite sex. The dress of the Tang Dynasty exposes the bosom, which is contrary to the thought at that time, but also to please the opposite sex. As a whole, the primitive idea of dressing to please the opposite sex has reached the same conclusion.
< /p >
< p > 3, the two era also has similarities to dress requirements. Renaissance women often spend a long time dressing for dress neatly. First, they wear white mends in the most interior, and wear a corset and skirt outside of them, then wear a petticoat, and finally cover the rob outside. The whole process needs assistance to complete.
But women in this period do not bother to repeat every day, because they form a fixed behavior norm in their cultural form. The women in the Tang Dynasty emphasized the external dress requirements under the strict hierarchy of China. They formed a series of dress codes and ethical norms in their cultural form.
< /p >
< p > (two) the difference of dress culture: < /p >
< p > Renaissance was the hub of the Middle Ages turning to modern times. It promoted the Renaissance of Europe in art. During the Renaissance, there was no clothing in any region in Europe for a long time. So the costumes in this period were constantly updated, showing colorful shapes, and their dress culture is pluralistic.
Under the relatively stable feudal system, the costume patterns of Tang Dynasty were relatively few. The obvious differences between the Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty's clothing culture can clarify the different origins of Chinese and Western clothing styles -- the different aesthetic differences have created different costumes. We can analyze the differences between the two different styles of dress culture from the explicit and implicit aspects of the two dynasties.
< /p >
< p > (1) dominant difference of dress culture < /p >
< p > first, there are great differences in clothing modeling.
The European Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty are obviously different in the external modeling. The European Renaissance has entered the narrow clothing era. The emphasis of clothing is to exaggerate the figure. The corset and skirt are good performances. The clothing not only artificially reduces the waist, but also increases the sense of space in the hem, and the corset and skirt are good examples. This style of strengthening the female characteristics has a profound influence on the dress style of the following 400 years.
The dress of the Tang Dynasty has always maintained the category of "wide clothing". The clothing materials of this period are exquisite, decorated many, and the shapes are open, but it is the unique clothing style in Chinese history. Although it has such narrow clothing style as Hu clothing, it has not formed any influence after all. The clothing has changed little in shape, and there is no three-dimensional fluctuation. It has always emphasized the surface decoration, the symbolic meaning of patterns and colors has become the dominant direction of dress culture in this period, which is far from the two.
< /p >
"P > European Renaissance clothing is three-dimensional in clothing modeling, extremely prominent personality, emphasizing and exaggerating the beauty of human body, highlighting a strong sense of three-dimensional, although to varying degrees contrary to the laws of nature, but its strong sense of space has become an irreversible main stream direction.
The clothing style of the Tang Dynasty is two-dimensional. It does not emphasize that clothing should be consistent with the human body. It does not require fit, nor does it emphasize the use of clothing to express the curves of the human body. It is the composition of natural clothing, and the obvious difference can be seen from its modeling.
< /p >
< p > 2, there are obvious differences in decoration.
During the Renaissance, the most important decoration method was the decoration of rips, which was to open up on the fabric and reveal the heterostructure of it.
The Tang dynasty women's clothing emphasized the extreme embroidery craft. During the Tang Dynasty, the women's clothing became more and more loose. Therefore, making the flat pattern decoration on the wide skirt was the most important decoration method in the Tang Dynasty.
< /p >
< p > 3. There are obvious differences in the use of fabrics. In the Renaissance period, the gorgeous fabrics, especially during the Italy wind period, are the most important features. Velvet, brocade and so on are widely used in clothing, showing a luxurious texture. The main fabrics used in the Tang Dynasty are silk. Many pparent and opaque silk are used on clothing, and women's beauty is revealed under the indistinct fabric. Generally speaking, the main materials of European Renaissance are flax, wool and cotton. The Tang Dynasty in China has been showing off in the developed silk culture, so the difference of material has brought about the difference of dress culture.
< /p >
< p > in addition, because of the different external shapes, it also brings differences in cutting techniques. In Europe, the cutting of the exaggerated 3D modeling focuses on curve clipping, and China's two-dimensional garment space brings about a simple straight line cutting.
All kinds of dominant differences clearly distinguish clothing from two cultures.
< /p >
< p > (2) the hidden difference of dress culture < /p >
< p > one is the difference in dressing concept.
The European Renaissance has greatly strengthened the Gender Tendency of women's clothing. Therefore, they should try to show women's shape characteristics, even at the expense of using the opposite way to achieve the effect. For example, women's waist tightens their waist with their corsets, and their breasts are higher, and the size of the lower part is enlarged by skirts. Women in this period understand the beauty of the green veins in the neck, which is also consistent with their dress ideas, creating artificial and stereoscopic clothing patterns.
The consciousness of clothing modeling is active, emphasizing the subjective initiative of people, while the clothing consciousness of Tang Dynasty mainly emphasizes the implication and freehand brushwork. Clothing always maintains the category of wide clothing and band. In the Tang Dynasty people's dressing consciousness, it emphasizes a natural, flat garment pattern, and fully maintains the integrity of cloth. It is not constructive, because it does not require fit with body shape, to a certain extent, it is a negative form of clothing, and it is also a negative dressing concept.
< /p >
< p > 2. The emphasis on clothing is different.
During the Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty, there were obvious differences between women's clothing and clothing. The Renaissance in Europe has begun to sprout capitalism. Besides the emphasis on three-dimensional wear, clothing focuses more on clothing wealth value and aesthetic function.
During the flourishing Tang Dynasty, the dress etiquette system was very perfect in China. The rulers attached great importance to the idea of wearing people to unify people, emphasizing the social ethical function of clothing "governing the country and the world" and thus paying more attention to the social character of clothing.
< /p >
< p > 3, aesthetic views are different.
European Renaissance people emphasize themselves, advocate competition, and expand their desires. They appreciate the exaggerated beauty. They show extreme personality in their costumes, emphasize and exaggerate the beauty of the human body. The space consciousness of clothing goes against the wrong path under the psychological drive of "self expansion". They constantly increase their skirts and expand their clothing volume, reflecting the Europeans' advocating the beauty of human body. The clothing concept takes the pursuit of human beauty as the core, showing the characteristics of extraversion, extroversion and extroversion, using clothing to improve the beauty of the human body, paying attention to analyzing the data of the human body, and studying the natural characteristics of the human body, and its culture belongs to the pluralistic category.
The aesthetic point of the Tang Dynasty emphasizes the inner charm. The beauty of clothing should embody the human spirit and temperament. It is not the emphasis on body shape. Even if there is a more beautiful body, it does not need to be embodied in clothing. Under this aesthetic consciousness, clothing is light cut and heavy connotation, emphasizing the overall effect after the clothing combination. It embodies a harmonious, unified and symmetrical way in clothing modeling rules, and clothing should be dignified and steady.
Costume aesthetics contains strong "good", so Chinese women's costume in Tang Dynasty shows abstract beauty with concrete techniques, and pays more attention to connotation.
< /p >
< p > three, summary > /p >
< p > as the two heyday of different regions, whether western traditional costumes or oriental ancient costumes, there are differences in their form and form of expression. This difference is reflected in their respective cultural backgrounds. Renaissance costumes and Tang women's clothing belong to the updated period of women's clothing. The Renaissance has revived the narrow clothing culture in Europe, and the Tang Dynasty has updated the conservative Chinese women's clothing. This shows that people's active exploration of clothing culture has increased and innovation is also increasing.
Through the comparison and research of Chinese and Western costumes, it is necessary to analyze their similarities and differences from explicit and implicit aspects, and find out the external reasons that constitute the differences between Chinese and Western costumes and the underlying laws hidden behind them, which is of great significance to the future fashion design.
< /p >
< p > < /p >.
< p > [Abstract] < /p >
< p > Chinese and Western dress culture has been in the process of intense collision and integration. The Renaissance and Tang Dynasty were the heyday of the Chinese and Western countries, and their clothing forms reflected the cultural characteristics of the time. By comparing the clothing culture of these two heyday, we could understand the similarities and differences in the evolution of women's clothing and the dress culture in different cultural backgrounds. In the contrast, we extracted the spiritual connotation and similarities and differences between Chinese and Western dress, summarized it as a discussion on the development of dress, so as to make more scientific treatment of complementarity, mutual penetration and mutual reference between the eastern and Western costume culture in the future design, so that the eastern and Western clothing design can develop together.
< /p >
< p > 1, preface < /p >
< p > in the field of costume design, the aesthetics of design almost comes from the dress culture of our nation.
Facing the clothing industry of the international metropolis, our fashion design concept is more developed in succession. We need to integrate various kinds of dress culture into the design concept. It is the two most important period in the Chinese and Western dress culture system.
In Europe, design pays more attention to external modeling and three-dimensional effect, because its three-dimensional degree has reached the ultimate beauty since the Renaissance.
In China, the design pays more attention to the meaning of patterns and colors, because the Chinese style of dress emphasizes the design of the pattern in the graphic design. Therefore, paying more attention to the cultural differences in different clothing areas is very important for the design.
The women's costume in European Renaissance and the Chinese women's costume in Tang Dynasty are the most representative garments in Chinese and Western history. Through their different artistic shapes, the aesthetic value of them is studied. This is of guiding significance for studying the cultural differences between Chinese and Western costumes, and the inheritance and innovation of clothing can also start here.
< /p >
< p > two, European Renaissance and the characteristics of Chinese women's art in Tang Dynasty < /p >
< p > (1) the characteristics of women's clothing in European Renaissance period < /p >
< p > Renaissance women's clothing refers to the modelling of women's garments from 15 to sixteenth Century. During this period, the bourgeois cultural movement took place in Western European countries. This is a great change in the history of human civilization - Renaissance, which means the revival of classical culture in Greece and Rome.
During the Renaissance, European dress culture had a profound impact on modern fashion design.
< /p >
< p > European clothing in the Renaissance was generally divided into the Italy wind era, the German wind era and the Spanish wind era.
< /p >
< p > Italy style women's dress is called Rob. It is a dress with a seam at the waist. It is V collar and also has a single collar. The chest is bare and waist high, and the sleeves are tied up like a lotus root.
The whole body is decorated with a beautiful fabric. It can be seen with white linen underwear and sleeves.
In rob, he can wear Joe, which is up to 20 - 30cm (high heel shoes figure two), and his body is covered with gorgeous decoration.
< /p >
In the early days of the German style, the women's clothing imitated the fashion style of the Italy style wind, the low neckline, then gradually turned into a high collar, and there were many small pleats, the sleeves narrowed and narrowed, the center of gravity was placed in the lower part, the narrow shoulders, the thin waist, the fat buttocks, at this time the skirt's lower part began to expand, and the three-dimensional modeling of the dress became more and more obvious.
< /p >
< p > Spanish Wind dress is very exaggerated. Although it is very formal, it will be stiff. There is a lot of stuffing on the dress, so that the beautiful shape of the female will be filled by the filling. The collar is lace collar with lace (Figure three). This is the unique decoration of the Renaissance. Gail and corset Karl pic are the two styles of women's clothing.
Among them, the British style Gail is the most exaggerated (Figure four), which is based on French skirt padding plus a circular lid, so that the skirt can expand the area can be very large, coupled with the extremely narrow waist, clothing looks for extreme exaggeration.
< /p >
< p > (two) the modeling features of Chinese Tang Dynasty ladies' dress < /p >
Jacket, shirt, underneath the tight skirt, after the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, it was fashionable to wear men's clothing. In the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, the style of women's clothing was gradually weakened by the influence of Hu clothing, and the dress was widened and enlarged, and the sleeves were enlarged. Although the imperial court had a clear stipulation on its loose scale, it was forbidden to use it repeatedly. At this time, women had been very fond of loose shape. The most important thing was that women boldly exposed their bodies at this time, and the neckline of the neckline could see the cleavage. The main way of dressing was to wear short skirts or shirts, wear long skirts, wear long skirts, wear silk, wear a half arm, and wear a half arm, head Dai Jinyin, enough to ascend silk shoes (Figure five). < p > the appearance of women's costume in Tang Dynasty was unique in the feudal system of China in the 2000.
In the late Tang Dynasty, long skirts and silk shoes began to be popular. In general, the styles of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty were different. In the early Tang Dynasty, they were narrow sleeves and narrow skirts and long skirts. In the Mid Tang Dynasty, they wore wide sleeves and big sleeves, and boldly exposed their bodies. In the late Tang Dynasty, the influence of more and more clothing on clothing was becoming smaller and smaller.
< /p >
The similarities and differences of dress culture between < p > three and two periods < /p >
< p > the European Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty in China are the most developed periods of their respective economies. The Renaissance is an era of flourishing flowers, talents and artistic achievements. The Tang Dynasty is the most powerful and prosperous era in the whole feudal society of China. Confucianism had a profound influence on the thoughts at that time, and it was at the height of its prosperity.
< /p >
< p > (1) the same point of clothing < /p >
During the Renaissance, the social nature of the clothing in the Tang Dynasty was the same as that in the Tang Dynasty. Europeans attached importance to the identification of clothing, and there was a clear difference between the nobility and the civilian wear. P
From the clothing style, there are obvious differences between clothing materials and clothing colors, while China pays more attention to the "defense class" and "the noble and the inferior" from the appearance of clothing.
China has a perfect dress grading system. It has obvious requirements not only in terms of material quality, but also in clothing and totem.
Therefore, it is the same for Europe and China to use clothing materials, fabrics and colors to symbolize and identify social status.
< /p >
< p > on the other hand, Europe and China have the same characteristics in the aesthetics of dress culture. The driving force of human dressing is to please each other and attract each other.
The shrinking waist of the European Renaissance, the exaggerated skirt is designed to attract the attention of the opposite sex. The dress of the Tang Dynasty exposes the bosom, which is contrary to the thought at that time, but also to please the opposite sex. As a whole, the primitive idea of dressing to please the opposite sex has reached the same conclusion.
< /p >
P > Third, the two times are similar to the dress requirements, and the Renaissance women tend to wear a long time to dress in order to dress. First they wear white muses, dreschs, and dresses, then wear a skirt, and the whole process needs help to complete, very tedious.
But the women in this period are repeated every day, because they have formed a fixed behavior norm in their own cultural form. The women in the Tang Dynasty emphasized the external dress requirements under the strict hierarchy system of China. In their own cultural form, they formed a series of dress codes and ethical norms.
< /p >
< p > (two) the difference of dress culture: < /p >
< p > Renaissance was the hub of the Middle Ages turning to modern times. It promoted the Renaissance of Europe in art. During the Renaissance, there was no clothing in any region in Europe for a long time. So the costumes in this period were constantly updated, showing colorful shapes, and their dress culture is pluralistic.
Under the relatively stable feudal system, the costume patterns of Tang Dynasty were relatively few. The obvious differences between the Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty's clothing culture can clarify the different origins of Chinese and Western clothing styles -- the different aesthetic differences have created different costumes. We can analyze the differences between the two different styles of dress culture from the explicit and implicit aspects of the two dynasties.
< /p >
< p > (1) dominant difference of dress culture < /p >
< p > first, there are great differences in clothing modeling.
The European Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty are obviously different in the external modeling. The European Renaissance has entered the narrow clothing era. The emphasis of clothing is to exaggerate the figure. The corset and skirt are good performances. The clothing not only artificially reduces the waist, but also increases the sense of space in the hem, and the corset and skirt are good examples. This style of strengthening the female characteristics has a profound influence on the dress style of the following 400 years.
The dress of the Tang Dynasty has always maintained the category of "wide clothing". The clothing materials of this period are exquisite, decorated many, and the shapes are open, but it is the unique clothing style in Chinese history. Although it has such narrow clothing style as Hu clothing, it has not formed any influence after all. The clothing has changed little in shape, and there is no three-dimensional fluctuation. It has always emphasized the surface decoration, the symbolic meaning of patterns and colors has become the dominant direction of dress culture in this period, which is far from the two.
< /p >
"P > European Renaissance clothing is three-dimensional in clothing modeling, extremely prominent personality, emphasizing and exaggerating the beauty of human body, highlighting a strong sense of three-dimensional, although to varying degrees contrary to the laws of nature, but its strong sense of space has become an irreversible main stream direction.
The clothing style of the Tang Dynasty is two-dimensional. It does not emphasize that clothing should be consistent with the human body. It does not require fit, nor does it emphasize the use of clothing to express the curves of the human body. It is the composition of natural clothing, and the obvious difference can be seen from its modeling.
< /p >
< p > 2, there are obvious differences in decoration.
During the Renaissance, the most important decoration method was the decoration of rips, which was to open up on the fabric and reveal the heterostructure of it.
The Tang dynasty women's clothing emphasized the extreme embroidery craft. During the Tang Dynasty, the women's clothing became more and more loose. Therefore, making the flat pattern decoration on the wide skirt was the most important decoration method in the Tang Dynasty.
< /p >
< p > 3. There are obvious differences in the use of fabrics. In the Renaissance period, the gorgeous fabrics, especially during the Italy wind period, are the most important features. Velvet, brocade and so on are widely used in clothing, showing a luxurious texture. The main fabrics used in the Tang Dynasty are silk. Many pparent and opaque silk are used on clothing, and women's beauty is revealed under the indistinct fabric. Generally speaking, the main materials of European Renaissance are flax, wool and cotton. The Tang Dynasty in China has been showing off in the developed silk culture, so the difference of material has brought about the difference of dress culture.
< /p >
< p > in addition, because of the different external shapes, it also brings differences in cutting techniques. In Europe, the cutting of the exaggerated 3D modeling focuses on curve clipping, and China's two-dimensional garment space brings about a simple straight line cutting.
All kinds of dominant differences clearly distinguish clothing from two cultures.
< /p >
< p > (2) the hidden difference of dress culture < /p >
< p > one is the difference in dressing concept.
The European Renaissance has greatly strengthened the Gender Tendency of women's clothing. Therefore, they should try to show women's shape characteristics, even at the expense of using the opposite way to achieve the effect. For example, women's waist tightens their waist with their corsets, and their breasts are higher, and the size of the lower part is enlarged by skirts. Women in this period understand the beauty of the green veins in the neck, which is also consistent with their dress ideas, creating artificial and stereoscopic clothing patterns.
The consciousness of clothing modeling is active, emphasizing the subjective initiative of people, while the clothing consciousness of Tang Dynasty mainly emphasizes the implication and freehand brushwork. Clothing always maintains the category of wide clothing and band. In the Tang Dynasty people's dressing consciousness, it emphasizes a natural, flat garment pattern, and fully maintains the integrity of cloth. It is not constructive, because it does not require fit with body shape, to a certain extent, it is a negative form of clothing, and it is also a negative dressing concept.
< /p >
< p > 2. The emphasis on clothing is different.
During the Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty, there were obvious differences between women's clothing and clothing. The Renaissance in Europe has begun to sprout capitalism. Besides the emphasis on three-dimensional wear, clothing focuses more on clothing wealth value and aesthetic function.
During the flourishing Tang Dynasty, the dress etiquette system was very perfect in China. The rulers attached great importance to the idea of wearing people to unify people, emphasizing the social ethical function of clothing "governing the country and the world" and thus paying more attention to the social character of clothing.
< /p >
< p > 3, aesthetic views are different.
European Renaissance people emphasize themselves, advocate competition, and expand their desires. They appreciate the exaggerated beauty. They show extreme personality in their costumes, emphasize and exaggerate the beauty of the human body. The space consciousness of clothing goes against the wrong path under the psychological drive of "self expansion". They constantly increase their skirts and expand their clothing volume, reflecting the Europeans' advocating the beauty of human body. The clothing concept takes the pursuit of human beauty as the core, showing the characteristics of extraversion, extroversion and extroversion, using clothing to improve the beauty of the human body, paying attention to analyzing the data of the human body, and studying the natural characteristics of the human body, and its culture belongs to the pluralistic category.
The aesthetic point of the Tang Dynasty emphasizes the inner charm. The beauty of clothing should embody the human spirit and temperament. It is not the emphasis on body shape. Even if there is a more beautiful body, it does not need to be embodied in clothing. Under this aesthetic consciousness, clothing is light cut and heavy connotation, emphasizing the overall effect after the clothing combination. It embodies a harmonious, unified and symmetrical way in clothing modeling rules, and clothing should be dignified and steady.
Costume aesthetics contains strong "good", so Chinese women's costume in Tang Dynasty shows abstract beauty with concrete techniques, and pays more attention to connotation.
< /p >
< p > four, summary > /p >
< p > as the two heyday of different regions, whether western traditional costumes or oriental ancient costumes, there are differences in their form and form of expression. This difference is reflected in their respective cultural backgrounds. Renaissance costumes and Tang women's clothing belong to the updated period of women's clothing. The Renaissance has revived the narrow clothing culture in Europe, and the Tang Dynasty has updated the conservative Chinese women's clothing. This shows that people's active exploration of clothing culture has increased and innovation is also increasing.
Through the comparison and research of Chinese and Western costumes, it is necessary to analyze their similarities and differences from explicit and implicit aspects, and find out the external reasons that constitute the differences between Chinese and Western costumes and the underlying laws hidden behind them, which is of great significance to the future fashion design.
< /p >
< p > 1, preface < /p >
< p > in the field of costume design, the aesthetics of design almost comes from the dress culture of our nation.
Facing the clothing industry of the international metropolis, our fashion design concept is more developed in succession. We need to integrate various kinds of dress culture into the design concept. It is the two most important period in the Chinese and Western dress culture system.
In Europe, design pays more attention to external modeling and three-dimensional effect, because its three-dimensional degree has reached the ultimate beauty since the Renaissance.
In China, the design pays more attention to the meaning of patterns and colors, because the Chinese style of dress emphasizes the design of the pattern in the graphic design. Therefore, paying more attention to the cultural differences in different clothing areas is very important for the design.
The women's costume in European Renaissance and the Chinese women's costume in Tang Dynasty are the most representative garments in Chinese and Western history. Through their different artistic shapes, the aesthetic value of them is studied. This is of guiding significance for studying the cultural differences between Chinese and Western costumes, and the inheritance and innovation of clothing can also start here.
< /p >
< p > two, European Renaissance and the characteristics of Chinese women's art in Tang Dynasty < /p >
< p > (1) the characteristics of women's clothing in European Renaissance period < /p >
< p > Renaissance women's clothing refers to the modelling of women's garments from 15 to sixteenth Century. During this period, the bourgeois cultural movement took place in Western European countries. This is a great change in the history of human civilization - Renaissance, which means the revival of classical culture in Greece and Rome.
During the Renaissance, European dress culture had a profound impact on modern fashion design.
< /p >
< p > European clothing in the Renaissance was generally divided into the Italy wind era, the German wind era and the Spanish wind era.
< /p >
< p > Italy style women's dress is called Rob. It is a dress with a seam at the waist. It is V collar and also has a single collar. The chest is bare and waist high, and the sleeves are tied up like a lotus root.
The whole body is decorated with a beautiful fabric. It can be seen with white linen underwear and sleeves.
In rob, he can wear Joe, which is up to 20 - 30cm (high heel shoes figure two), and his body is covered with gorgeous decoration.
< /p >
In the early days of the German style, the women's clothing imitated the fashion style of the Italy style wind, the low neckline, then gradually turned into a high collar, and there were many small pleats, the sleeves narrowed and narrowed, the center of gravity was placed in the lower part, the narrow shoulders, the thin waist, the fat buttocks, at this time the skirt's lower part began to expand, and the three-dimensional modeling of the dress became more and more obvious.
< /p >
< p > Spanish Wind dress is very exaggerated. Although it is very formal, it will be stiff. There is a lot of stuffing on the dress, so that the beautiful shape of the female will be filled by the filling. The collar is lace collar with lace (Figure three). This is the unique decoration of the Renaissance. Gail and corset Karl pic are the two styles of women's clothing.
Among them, the British style Gail is the most exaggerated (Figure four), which is based on French skirt padding plus a circular lid, so that the skirt can expand the area can be very large, coupled with the extremely narrow waist, clothing looks for extreme exaggeration.
< /p >
< p > (two) the modeling features of Chinese Tang Dynasty ladies' dress < /p >
Jacket, shirt, underneath the tight skirt, after the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, it was fashionable to wear men's clothing. In the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, the style of women's clothing was gradually weakened by the influence of Hu clothing, and the dress was widened and enlarged, and the sleeves were enlarged. Although the imperial court had a clear stipulation on its loose scale, it was forbidden to use it repeatedly. At this time, women had been very fond of loose shape. The most important thing was that women boldly exposed their bodies at this time, and the neckline of the neckline could see the cleavage. The main way of dressing was to wear short skirts or shirts, wear long skirts, wear long skirts, wear silk, wear a half arm, and wear a half arm, head Dai Jinyin, enough to ascend silk shoes (Figure five). < p > the appearance of women's costume in Tang Dynasty was unique in the feudal system of China in the 2000.
In the late Tang Dynasty, long skirts and silk shoes began to be popular. In general, the styles of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty were different. In the early Tang Dynasty, they were narrow sleeves and narrow skirts and long skirts. In the Mid Tang Dynasty, they wore wide sleeves and big sleeves, and boldly exposed their bodies. In the late Tang Dynasty, the influence of more and more clothing on clothing was becoming smaller and smaller.
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The similarities and differences of dress culture between < p > three and two periods < /p >
< p > the European Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty in China are the most developed periods of their respective economies. The Renaissance is an era of flourishing flowers, talents and artistic achievements. The Tang Dynasty is the most powerful and prosperous era in the whole feudal society of China. Confucianism had a profound influence on the thoughts at that time, and it was at the height of its prosperity.
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< p > (1) the same point of clothing < /p >
During the Renaissance, the social nature of the clothing in the Tang Dynasty was the same as that in the Tang Dynasty. Europeans attached importance to the identification of clothing, and there was a clear difference between the nobility and the civilian wear. P
From the clothing style, there are obvious differences between clothing materials and clothing colors, while China pays more attention to the "defense class" and "the noble and the inferior" from the appearance of clothing.
China has a perfect dress grading system. It has obvious requirements not only in terms of material quality, but also in clothing and totem.
Therefore, it is the same for Europe and China to use clothing materials, fabrics and colors to symbolize and identify social status.
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< p > on the other hand, Europe and China have the same characteristics in the aesthetics of dress culture. The driving force of human dressing is to please each other and attract each other.
The shrinking waist of the European Renaissance, the exaggerated skirt is designed to attract the attention of the opposite sex. The dress of the Tang Dynasty exposes the bosom, which is contrary to the thought at that time, but also to please the opposite sex. As a whole, the primitive idea of dressing to please the opposite sex has reached the same conclusion.
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< p > 3, the two era also has similarities to dress requirements. Renaissance women often spend a long time dressing for dress neatly. First, they wear white mends in the most interior, and wear a corset and skirt outside of them, then wear a petticoat, and finally cover the rob outside. The whole process needs assistance to complete.
But women in this period do not bother to repeat every day, because they form a fixed behavior norm in their cultural form. The women in the Tang Dynasty emphasized the external dress requirements under the strict hierarchy of China. They formed a series of dress codes and ethical norms in their cultural form.
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< p > (two) the difference of dress culture: < /p >
< p > Renaissance was the hub of the Middle Ages turning to modern times. It promoted the Renaissance of Europe in art. During the Renaissance, there was no clothing in any region in Europe for a long time. So the costumes in this period were constantly updated, showing colorful shapes, and their dress culture is pluralistic.
Under the relatively stable feudal system, the costume patterns of Tang Dynasty were relatively few. The obvious differences between the Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty's clothing culture can clarify the different origins of Chinese and Western clothing styles -- the different aesthetic differences have created different costumes. We can analyze the differences between the two different styles of dress culture from the explicit and implicit aspects of the two dynasties.
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< p > (1) dominant difference of dress culture < /p >
< p > first, there are great differences in clothing modeling.
The European Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty are obviously different in the external modeling. The European Renaissance has entered the narrow clothing era. The emphasis of clothing is to exaggerate the figure. The corset and skirt are good performances. The clothing not only artificially reduces the waist, but also increases the sense of space in the hem, and the corset and skirt are good examples. This style of strengthening the female characteristics has a profound influence on the dress style of the following 400 years.
The dress of the Tang Dynasty has always maintained the category of "wide clothing". The clothing materials of this period are exquisite, decorated many, and the shapes are open, but it is the unique clothing style in Chinese history. Although it has such narrow clothing style as Hu clothing, it has not formed any influence after all. The clothing has changed little in shape, and there is no three-dimensional fluctuation. It has always emphasized the surface decoration, the symbolic meaning of patterns and colors has become the dominant direction of dress culture in this period, which is far from the two.
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"P > European Renaissance clothing is three-dimensional in clothing modeling, extremely prominent personality, emphasizing and exaggerating the beauty of human body, highlighting a strong sense of three-dimensional, although to varying degrees contrary to the laws of nature, but its strong sense of space has become an irreversible main stream direction.
The clothing style of the Tang Dynasty is two-dimensional. It does not emphasize that clothing should be consistent with the human body. It does not require fit, nor does it emphasize the use of clothing to express the curves of the human body. It is the composition of natural clothing, and the obvious difference can be seen from its modeling.
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< p > 2, there are obvious differences in decoration.
During the Renaissance, the most important decoration method was the decoration of rips, which was to open up on the fabric and reveal the heterostructure of it.
The Tang dynasty women's clothing emphasized the extreme embroidery craft. During the Tang Dynasty, the women's clothing became more and more loose. Therefore, making the flat pattern decoration on the wide skirt was the most important decoration method in the Tang Dynasty.
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< p > 3. There are obvious differences in the use of fabrics. In the Renaissance period, the gorgeous fabrics, especially during the Italy wind period, are the most important features. Velvet, brocade and so on are widely used in clothing, showing a luxurious texture. The main fabrics used in the Tang Dynasty are silk. Many pparent and opaque silk are used on clothing, and women's beauty is revealed under the indistinct fabric. Generally speaking, the main materials of European Renaissance are flax, wool and cotton. The Tang Dynasty in China has been showing off in the developed silk culture, so the difference of material has brought about the difference of dress culture.
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< p > in addition, because of the different external shapes, it also brings differences in cutting techniques. In Europe, the cutting of the exaggerated 3D modeling focuses on curve clipping, and China's two-dimensional garment space brings about a simple straight line cutting.
All kinds of dominant differences clearly distinguish clothing from two cultures.
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< p > (2) the hidden difference of dress culture < /p >
< p > one is the difference in dressing concept.
The European Renaissance has greatly strengthened the Gender Tendency of women's clothing. Therefore, they should try to show women's shape characteristics, even at the expense of using the opposite way to achieve the effect. For example, women's waist tightens their waist with their corsets, and their breasts are higher, and the size of the lower part is enlarged by skirts. Women in this period understand the beauty of the green veins in the neck, which is also consistent with their dress ideas, creating artificial and stereoscopic clothing patterns.
The consciousness of clothing modeling is active, emphasizing the subjective initiative of people, while the clothing consciousness of Tang Dynasty mainly emphasizes the implication and freehand brushwork. Clothing always maintains the category of wide clothing and band. In the Tang Dynasty people's dressing consciousness, it emphasizes a natural, flat garment pattern, and fully maintains the integrity of cloth. It is not constructive, because it does not require fit with body shape, to a certain extent, it is a negative form of clothing, and it is also a negative dressing concept.
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< p > 2. The emphasis on clothing is different.
During the Renaissance and the Tang Dynasty, there were obvious differences between women's clothing and clothing. The Renaissance in Europe has begun to sprout capitalism. Besides the emphasis on three-dimensional wear, clothing focuses more on clothing wealth value and aesthetic function.
During the flourishing Tang Dynasty, the dress etiquette system was very perfect in China. The rulers attached great importance to the idea of wearing people to unify people, emphasizing the social ethical function of clothing "governing the country and the world" and thus paying more attention to the social character of clothing.
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< p > 3, aesthetic views are different.
European Renaissance people emphasize themselves, advocate competition, and expand their desires. They appreciate the exaggerated beauty. They show extreme personality in their costumes, emphasize and exaggerate the beauty of the human body. The space consciousness of clothing goes against the wrong path under the psychological drive of "self expansion". They constantly increase their skirts and expand their clothing volume, reflecting the Europeans' advocating the beauty of human body. The clothing concept takes the pursuit of human beauty as the core, showing the characteristics of extraversion, extroversion and extroversion, using clothing to improve the beauty of the human body, paying attention to analyzing the data of the human body, and studying the natural characteristics of the human body, and its culture belongs to the pluralistic category.
The aesthetic point of the Tang Dynasty emphasizes the inner charm. The beauty of clothing should embody the human spirit and temperament. It is not the emphasis on body shape. Even if there is a more beautiful body, it does not need to be embodied in clothing. Under this aesthetic consciousness, clothing is light cut and heavy connotation, emphasizing the overall effect after the clothing combination. It embodies a harmonious, unified and symmetrical way in clothing modeling rules, and clothing should be dignified and steady.
Costume aesthetics contains strong "good", so Chinese women's costume in Tang Dynasty shows abstract beauty with concrete techniques, and pays more attention to connotation.
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< p > four, summary > /p >
< p > as the two heyday of different regions, whether western a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_s.asp" > traditional dress < /a >, or eastern ancient costumes, there are differences in their forms and forms of expression. This difference is reflected in their respective cultural backgrounds. Women's clothing in the Renaissance period and women's wear in Tang Dynasty belong to the women's dress in the updated period. The Renaissance has revived the narrow clothing culture in Europe, and the Tang Dynasty has updated the conservative Chinese dress. This shows that people's active exploration of clothing culture has increased and innovation is also increasing.
Through the comparison and research of Chinese and Western costumes, it is necessary to analyze their similarities and differences from explicit and implicit aspects, and find out the external reasons that constitute the differences between Chinese and Western costumes and the underlying laws hidden behind them, which is of great significance to the future fashion design.
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