Exclusive Interview: Wang Haizhen'S First Personal Brand Haizhen Wang Show
In the evening of the second day of Wang Haizhen's first personal brand Haizhen Wang show, we came to Somerset House again. latest fashion Zhou has finished the curtain on the first day. Somerset House, once noisy and beautiful, has regained its former tranquility. Workers are quietly and busily doing the final demolition work.
Go through the long walkway of this Victorian building, go downstairs, go through the yard, and then go upstairs to Wang Haizhen's studio on the second floor.
Dalian native Wang Haizhen graduated from Central Saint Martin College of Art and Design in 2005; After graduation, he worked in Max Mara, Boudicca and All Saints successively; In 2010, he founded the brand of the same name "Haizhen Wang" in London; As the winner of 2012 Fashion Fringe, Wang Haizhen held the final show at the main venue of Somerset House on the last day of London Fashion Week in autumn and winter 2013 designer My first personal brand show.
(Note: Fashion Fringe was founded in 2003 by Colin McDowell, a senior commentator in the fashion industry, to provide a platform for talented new designers to establish their own brands. The winner will be sponsored by the London Fashion Week show, and Somerset House will use it for two years. Wang Haizhen won the first Chinese award.)
Haizhen Wang's debut: I am the biggest Chinese element
Walking into the studio, the wall was nailed with design drawings, the clothes from yesterday's show were hung on the gantry, and two bouquets of flowers were placed on the workbench. The red scorpion tail banana was sent by Colin McDowell, and the white rose was sent by the creative director of Burberry, Christopher Bailey. They congratulated Haizhen on the show. {page_break}
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It's no exaggeration to say that the show of Haizhen is one of the most popular shows in London Fashion Week. There were only four rows of benches in the show, and two rows had to be added at the back. There were still many people standing behind the seats, but still many people were waiting at the door.
Reporter: Let's talk about yesterday's show first. Are you satisfied?
Haizhen: I'm basically satisfied. I'm basically satisfied with the preparation time and available resources, although there are some minor problems. But yesterday, many people didn't take care of it, because there were too many people coming to the scene, and I don't know that many important guests didn't come in later. Because there are too many people here.
Reporter: For me, the most intuitive impression of yesterday's show is a very "strong" female image, Hat And his face was painted like a samurai's helmet. Is this your orientation of your work?
Haizhen: In fact, I can learn from various cultures. The lines on my face are actually totems of African aborigines. In my works, I integrate various cultures of different nations.
Reporter: Do you intend to continue this style? For example, whether the design style of the next season will continue.
Haizhen: For me, this season is not over yet. I'm going to show room in Paris.
Reporter: So we need to see the buyer's reaction to this season to decide the style of the next season, right?
Haizhen: Yes, there is no mistake. It depends on the buyer's reaction.
Reporter: You mentioned in an interview that Chinese elements will be integrated when appropriate.
Haizhen: For me, Chinese elements do not mean that you sew a dragon on your skirt, that is Chinese elements. Who wouldn't do that. For me, I will not deliberately integrate Chinese elements, but people ask too many questions. Chinese elements are very precious to me. Now is not the time to use Chinese elements in large quantities. In the final analysis, I am a Chinese, and I am the biggest Chinese element. In fact, I used it a little last season, but you didn't see it.
The Way to Study: Clothing is a Living Display
Haizhen's way of study was not smooth. Young and energetic young people came to London and applied for CSM (Central Saint Martin School of Art and Design) Master of Women's Wear Design, which was rejected. They moved to LCF (London Fashion College) to study again from the second year of undergraduate. It took two years to participate in the CSM Master of Women's Wear interview again. This time, he successfully entered CSM for a year and a half.
Reporter: You studied interior design in Dalian before, didn't you?
Haizhen: Yes. I studied interior design in middle school and wanted to be an interior designer at that time.
Reporter: Is that why you pay special attention to the relationship between architecture and clothing?
Haizhen: Well, that's not true.
Reporter: Compared with others, what attracts you most about fashion design?
Haizhen: After I graduated from middle school, I started to learn fashion design by accident. It was not interesting for two years at first. In the third year, I suddenly felt that fashion design was different from other designs. When you showed the clothes to the audience, the excitement and energy were different. For example, when you are an interior designer, you are always in the backstage. But when you are making clothes, you can directly see the audience's reaction. The excitement of a live show is different. Just then, I saw the works of John Galliano, and was very shocked. I found a kind of excitement in clothes.
Reporter: Later, you came to Britain to interview CSM (Central Saint Martin School of Design and Art), but you didn't know it. In 2001, you transferred to LCF (London Fashion College) to study BA Grade 2, and in 2003, you re interviewed CSM for women's clothing. What do you think the education of BA and MA means to you differently?
Haizhen: I came to the UK with confidence and wanted to apply for a CSM MA. After reading the language, I went to the interview. When I was waiting for an interview, I saw the works of other people who were waiting together, and I immediately found that I must be dead. But when I came, I still went in and found that I was really much worse. But it is not a zero point. So I went to LCF and started reading from my sophomore year, because CSM can only be read from my sophomore year. After two years of reading, I went to the CSM MA interview again, and this time I came across it. BA feels like a big family. There are more students and more than 1 oo people. The teachers can't take care of everyone. Unlike MA, there are more than 50 people. The teachers are better and the resources are more. It has been a very fruitful year and a half.
Reporter: The reason why CSM MA is strong is not only that Louis Wilson encourages students to break the authority. For example, clothing education in Italy and France stresses that students should master technology. It is suggested that students should work for others after graduation. But CSM is different. Students are encouraged to become design directors or their own brands as soon as they graduate.
Haizhen: Yes, it is. This is the difference between the education system. The UK encourages creativity, with the focus on your idea. Italy and France attach more importance to technology. Many excellent designers can't make clothes, but they have ideas.
Working for others first: a helpless choice
Unlike many CSM graduates who started their own brands after graduation, Wang Haizhen was invited to work in Maxmara, Boudicca and All saints before starting his own brands. To our surprise, the designer said that this was a helpless choice.
Reporter: I have seen the media describe you as "a sword forged in ten years". You have worked in Maxmara, Boudicca and All saints successively, from high-end ready to wear, pioneer brands to high street brands. What do you think this work experience brings to you?
Haizhen: It's actually a helpless choice for me to work. At that time, there was no PSW visa (Editor's note: Post Study Work Visa, which is a visa for overseas students to stay for an extra year of internship after graduation from a graduate student in the UK). They had to find a job to stay. Just when a company offered an offer to apply for a work visa, I went. You can see that these three brands are different, but they have something in common, or they all like one of my characteristics. Boudicca comparison pioneer, comparison darks, comparison goddess; Maxmara also pays attention to shape and tailing; All tastes are also more edgy. I don't know what they have in common, but they must all like something I have. {page_break}
Reporter: Does such work experience affect your design style?
Haizhen: Yes, I may have a better understanding of this market.
Future development: I want to be strong enough
After the 2012 Fashion Fringe selection, Christopher Bailey said the reason for choosing Wang Haizhen: "I'm looking for a comprehensive genius. I hope he has a deep understanding of cutting and sewing, and also needs to understand business, know how to launch products, and have a firm attitude."
Reporter: You also mentioned your business considerations to the media many times. What is the relationship between business and fashion for you?
Haizhen: A good business team will certainly help you. For me, I concentrate on making clothes.
Reporter: Fashion Fringe will sponsor for two years. Do you have any plans after these two years?
Haizhen: It is not strong enough now. Although it is a little famous now, it is not established at all. Maybe someone will push you to push you down. I want to use these two years to prove myself and gain more recognition. After two years, I will be able to be independent and not rely on other people's resources.
Reporter: What's the plan? Have you contacted investors?
Haizhen: I haven't started yet, and I don't want to be too impatient. Many domestic investors hope to get a return in the short term. For example, 100 stores will be opened this year, 300 stores will be opened next year, and they will be listed in a few years. Then they will sell their brands and go to other brands. I want to find investors who can see far. In fact, this is not only looking for investment, but also looking for a cultural identity, an investor who is willing to wait slowly.
Advice for young people: first think about what value you can create
British Prime Minister Cameron said in his speech in the Year of the Snake that more than 100000 overseas students from mainland China and Hong Kong are studying in the UK. There are more and more Chinese faces in design schools, and students tend to be confused after graduation. Do you want to stay in the UK or return to China for development? Do you work for them or create your own brand?
Reporter: Now there are also many Chinese students studying design in the UK. Do you have any suggestions for them?
Haizhen: In fact, as we did at that time, there is no PSW visa, and it is more difficult to find a job now. Now some students go to intern and feel that they can do things at first, but they don't ask themselves whether the things I do are valuable. I can say that many interns don't know how to make things. If he/she doesn't believe me, I will do it for him. As a result, I used 10 meters of cloth and spent half a day with the sewing machine to do nothing. Instead, the employer has to pay for these resources. Of course, there will also be some people who work very hard and are very sensible. I will also consider leaving them behind later.
Chinese designers: work harder than others
A week before the show, Wang Haizhen's studio joined hands with Sina Fashion, and the Student Union of London University of Arts launched # Chinese designers. Come on# About 2000 times of forwarding and more than 1000 messages were received in the award-winning forwarding activity of. It has aroused great repercussions among British Chinese and overseas students.
Reporter: The activity of "supporting Chinese designers" has been very popular on Weibo. Are "Chinese designers" your position after careful consideration?
Haizhen: I'm a little famous now. When no one knew you, no one would take care of you, and no one would encourage you, no matter what designers or what. I don't think it's necessary to be tolerant of others. Using "Chinese" means that I think all overseas Chinese who are struggling for their dreams can be united and encouraged.
Reporter: How does the positioning of "Chinese" affect you? Different from designers from other regions.
Haizhen: In fact, it is not easy for Chinese people, especially Chinese people, to work here. For example, visa is a problem. It does not mean that what you do is good, but that you are totally unqualified to do it. I wanted to join Fashion Fringe when I just graduated, but I'm not qualified without a work visa, and no one else will help you with your visa. I don't mean to complain. This is reality. If you are not ready for this, you'd better go back to China.
Reporter: But it is more difficult to return to China for development.
Haizhen: Yes. Stay here and be prepared to see the reality clearly. Maybe others have already worked hard, but you must work harder than them.
Reporter: So try hard
Haizhen: Yes, try Harder.
Reporter: Although fashion was invented by Westerners, it has a history of hundreds of years. However, in the 1980s, Japan produced designers that could shake the West: Issey Miyake, Yoji Yamamoto, and Kukubo Kawaguchi, but few Chinese designers. More and more Chinese designers have begun to appear at the London Paris Fashion Week. Do you think it is time for Chinese designers to come to the fore?
Haizhen: Let's wait for another two or three years. Although everyone recognizes you now, you may be nothing after two years. There are many designers who are short-lived. Now I focus on my design, so that your value will be seen naturally.
Reporter: If there is a chance to change the past, which thing do you want to change most?
Haizhen: Well... nothing. Although there are many things that have no choice, there is always a direction in my heart. Just work hard in this direction.
Reporter: If you were not a fashion designer, what would you do in your imagination?
Haizhen: Sometimes I think about football players in my dream.
It was late to leave the studio, and the wind was strong by the Thames River. Haizhen was still busy with his assistant in the studio. In the eyes of others, fashion is bright and beautiful, and designers have unlimited scenery. But how much effort is needed behind the 15 minutes in front of the stage every season. Those efforts may pay off, and more likely will continue to be confused, but at least one thing can be sure that your efforts will not be wasted in time. Although you don't know what will happen in the future, as the earthquake said, there is always a direction in your heart. Encourage the readers.
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