Home >

Zhou Chengjian: Building Brand Power In Line With International Clothing

2013/3/15 17:03:00 38

??? 日本語 Fran?ais English 中文

American Apparel Clothing Retailing Fashion Management Mode

this year, China's < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_q.asp" > clothing > /a > retail enterprises are in a large inventory crisis.

According to the statistics of Wind, in the first half of 2012, the total inventory of 87 listed companies in the garment industry, < a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > textile > /a >, amounted to 73 billion 200 million yuan, while the data in the same period in 2010 and 2010 were 69 billion 900 million yuan and 50 billion 100 million yuan respectively.

American bond is no exception.

By the end of 2011, the stock accumulated by US state was 2 billion 560 million yuan, a record.

Entering the 2012, clearing inventory became an important task of the United States.

According to the financial report, in the first half of last year, the United States and the United States cleaned up 800 million yuan inventory, and the speed even aroused external doubt, which led to its stock price volatility. The market value had evaporated 1 billion 280 million yuan in two days.

By the end of the third quarter of 2012, the United States still had nearly 2 billion 200 million yuan in inventory.

P contrasts sharply with the predicament of traditional clothing retailing. Taobao's "double eleven" activity has a sales volume of 19 billion 100 million yuan a day, up 260% over the same period last year.

this is the unprecedented challenge that Zhou Chengjian encountered in the garment industry in the past 30 years.

In an interview with this magazine, Zhou Chengjian said that the clothing retailing industry is bound to face a shuffle. Some people are destined to be eliminated, but this is not necessarily a bad thing for the United States, because "all kinds of forces will wake you up and think about more things."

this is the logic that Zhou Chengjian summed up from his past experience.

In 1989, Zhou Chengjian began to run clothes in the form of "shop in front of factories".

By 2000, he had encountered a bottleneck.

At that time, its business mode was wholesale, and its customers came from Wenzhou. However, because of its extensive management and disorder, he and the dealers were clamorous every day.

It is imperative to change the original dealer structure.

In 2001, Zhou Chengjian invited Aaron Kwok to be a spokesman for the image. He became famous overnight and attracted dealers from all over the country.

"P >" 1989 to 2012, 12 years, one cycle, the last year of each cycle will be adjusted, this rule is very interesting.

I think that society, enterprises and people are spiralling upward, and turn around and come back and start again, but this circle will turn you down. "

Zhou Chengjian thinks.

Zhou Chengjian, 48, has ushered in the fourth year of his life in P.

In Chinese folklore, there is a saying about "unlucky" in this year.

But Zhou Chengjian prefers to believe in his fatalism, and concludes that 2013 will be the starting point for next 12 year cycle and a new starting point for China's clothing retailing industry.

this time, can he fulfill it?

"rice restaurant" or "dumpling hall"?

inventory is not a problem with the supply chain, but rather from the brand strategy of Smith Barney.

inventory is an unavoidable topic for Zhou Chengjian.

By the end of 2009, the inventory data of Smith Barney was 900 million yuan, and by the end of 2010, its inventory had climbed to 2 billion 548 million yuan, an increase of 183% over the beginning of the year.

In the first quarter of 2011, its inventory size exceeded 3 billion yuan.

Smith Barrack's stock turnover days increased from 80.2 days in 2008 to 97.39 days in 2009, and in 2010 and 2011, they increased to 154 days and 167 days respectively.

Yang Tao, general manager of the local women's clothing brand, said that the reaction speed of the supply chain is one of the factors that affect inventory turnover.

In recent years, due to the increase of labor costs and recruitment difficulties, some garment factories are unable to guarantee delivery time and quality.

For the clothing brand that outsource production, the response speed of its supply chain is also dragged down.

In contrast, Zara, known for its fast turnaround, has 50% of its products produced by its own factories, and the United States outsource its production.

but Zhou Chengjian believes that behind the inventory is not a problem in the supply chain, but a multi brand strategy originated in the United States, "there are too many pursuits in the past few years".

as early as 2007, Meters/bonwe brand was divided into two major series: "campus" and "metropolis".

In August 28, 2008, the United States listed on the same day, Zhou Chengjian launched the new brand ME&CITY, which is the 22-35 year old white collar worker. It also adjusted the internal organizational structure in the second half of 2008, and divided Meters/bonwe and ME&CITY into two major departments to adapt to the development of multi brand strategy.

2009, the United States launched the children's wear brand MCKIDS (Mi Xidi); in 2010, the United States launched an online exclusive brand AMPM; 2011, the United States launched the positioning of the city's fashion brand TAGLINE, a href= http://www.91se91.com/news/index_f.asp, > children's wear / a > brand "MooMoo" and "a href=" "MooMoo".

, but the result disappointed Zhou Chengjian.

ME&CITY alone has seriously weighed up its performance. In 2009, its sales performance was only 350 million yuan, far from the target of 1 billion yuan.

In 2010 and 2011, there were only 690 million yuan and 990 million yuan respectively, so there was a negative growth in net profit in the third quarter of 2009.

In its earnings report, Smith Barney admitted that the expansion of multiple brands and the increasing abundance of design patterns led to a continuous increase in inventory size.

"P >" after the listing of the US bond market, we want to make more choices for consumers through multi brand strategy.

But today, this direction is wrong.

Zhou Chengjian made the analogy: the first American state was a rice restaurant, and after that, noodles and dumplings were added, and some abalone and shark fin were also wanted.

In the end, due to the large number of products, the difference and refinement of each category were not enough, which led consumers to not know whether it was a rice restaurant or a dumpling hall.

At the end of 2012, Zhou Chengjian put forward the goal of "return" in the US, and did not expand the new brand from 2013. Instead, he focused on the existing brands and highlighted the differences. P

For example, on target groups, Meters/bonwe focuses on 16-25 year old young people, while ME&CITY focuses on 30-35 year old mature white-collar workers.

In style, if Meters/bonwe is the "rice restaurant", ME&CITY is the clear-cut "dumpling hall".

{page_break}" less ".

--EndFragment--!

at present, regardless of Chinese trend, Lining, or later Anta, XTEP, PEAK, all adopt the mode of "brand + wholesale", that is, playing the role of brand dealer, responsible for front-end brand marketing, product design and production, and the back end retail is all handed over to the agent.

Chen Yihong, chairman and CEO of China trend board, believes that under this mode, as long as the goods are sold out wholesale, the sales of brands will be formed, so the brands will not pay attention to the changes in the retail market.

Once the agent overestimates the market demand and stockings, the stock will come out. It will support the brand dealers, ask for a period, or even demand a return, otherwise the partnership will break up.

The "kidnapped" brand had to give.

but Zhou Chengjian believes that the state of the United States and sports brands are different.

Less than 10 years ago, P was also a pure wholesale mode.

Before and after 2000, "the agents of all provinces came to bargain", which made Zhou Chengjian feel "wrong".

He immediately launched the direct camp mode, which changed all the difficult markets of first tier cities, provincial capital cities and municipalities directly under the central government to direct stores.

In 2001, there were 48 stores in the United States, accounting for 11.1% of the total number of stores.

From 2001 to 2007, the annual compound growth rate of the number of stores in the United States and the United States was 30.37%, of which the direct store was 33.44%, higher than the 29.95% of the franchise.

In 2006, the United States and the United States for the franchisee to activate the order system, generally not allowed to return, part of the inventory task pferred to the franchisee.

at present, the contribution of Direct stores and franchisees to Smith Barney's revenue is 5:5.

"Today's light camp, if I turn into a wholesale mode, I can earn at least 600 million more profit a year, but 10 years ago I insisted that I want to continue the brand rather than the financial profit."

Zhou Chengjian believes that the wholesale mode of Chinese clothing enterprises is similar to that of Nike and Adidas, that is, only to make brand dealers, not to make channels.

But the difference is that Chinese brands lack brand appeal to distributors.

Therefore, the core crisis of China's apparel retailing industry is not stock, nor Internet, but the lack of brand power.

And its brand power is not in place.

In 2012 P, what Zhou Chengjian thought most was how to build the brand power in line with international standards, so that consumers could truly choose the US state.

In the past, Zhou Chengjian was famous for his use of image spokesmen, from Aaron Kwok to Jay Chou and Lin Chiling.

From 2013 onwards, Zhou Chengjian did not want to put all chips on the spokesperson. Instead, he set up thousands of stores in the country to become the image spokesman of the United States. In the store, it was no longer a simple static product price, but a display of the attitude of life, atmosphere, quality, and price competitiveness.

"little tailor" insistence /p >

P, I don't care if people say I'm good or bad, I am me.

Zhou Chengjian created an inspirational story from the country tailor to the richest man in clothing.

In 1993, Zhou Chengjian set up the US.

Following the rapid development of the "light production mode" and "join plus direct operation", the United States has become the leader of domestic casual wear, and its sales scale has been broken by billions.

In the 2012 Forbes rich list, Zhou Chengjian ranked nineteenth in 17 billion 10 million yuan.

, but he has been stumbling all the way in the past 30 years.

In 1980s, Zhou Chengjian made a loan of 300 thousand yuan to set up a garment processing plant. He gathered together several good round tailors with good reputation, and organized the village tailors to work overtime whenever there was a customer's order.

As a result, the first order almost bankrupt him: the customer refused to pay because of poor quality of products. Finally, after Zhou Chengjianfu finished the work of the tailors, there was not much left.

2012 is another Zhou Chengjian's ridge.

In fact, in 2011, he realized that annual growth of more than 30% was unsustainable, but in 2012, the United States still set a budget in accordance with the target of 30% growth.

In the case of slower revenue growth, the imbalance between payments is inevitable.

"if we put forward zero growth in 2012 in 2011, all budgets set up according to the goal of zero growth, and the situation in 2012 will be much better."

After reviewing Zhou Chengjian, "it still shows that his structure is not enough, I do not want to understand."

Zhou Chengjian feels that personality determines destiny, and attitude determines how long an enterprise can go. "Some entrepreneurs have a very large pattern, for example, Ma Yun [micro-blog], Guo Guangchang, Liu Chuanzhi, Wang Shi, their pattern is very large, and they are strategizing.

I belong to the rush. "

Zhou Chengjian, who was born in a poor peasant family in Qingtian County, Zhejiang, was very diligent. He insisted on entering office work at 8 a.m. every morning. He was also humble and often called himself "little tailor".

However, in the eyes of the departing employees, Zhou Chengjian is a strong and demanding boss, and also has a famous bad temper. The rise and fall of these years' performance and the turnover of executives are related to some extent.

"I don't mind if people say I'm good or bad. I am me."

Zhou Chengjian showed no concern.

In fact, over the years, he is also changing.

For example, he used to want to drop a professional manager and earn him a lot of money to solve all the problems of the enterprise. Once he finds this professional manager can not do it, he will lose patience.

Later, he found that people should have standard and quantifiable evaluation system.

but Zhou Chengjian's most stubborn point is insisting on tailoring.

In private entrepreneurs, this is considered alien.

In the real estate and photovoltaic boom, China's large number of private entrepreneurs have "crossed the border" to make quick money. Zhou Chengjian insisted on being "tailor" only. "If I give me ten thousand choices again, I will choose to do this."

Zhou Chengjian said, "why the lack of strong corporate entities is due to lack of persistence. Only when we stand alone and persist, can we live better and better."

the life path of "little tailor" .

In P 1984-1985 years, Zhou Chengjian failed to set up a garment processing factory in partnership with his friends in his hometown.

1986, Zhou Chengjian went from his hometown to Wenzhou to start a business. In 1989, he ran the clothing business in the form of "shop front shop".

1993, Zhou Chengjian set up the US.

The brand of bang Wei followed by the "production outsourcing", "join + direct camp" light asset mode rapidly rising.

1997, because of the virtual operation mode of "outsourcing production + wholesale", the operation of the state owned enterprise was not smooth, and it was once close to collapse.

2001, Zhou Chengjian invited Aaron Kwok as the spokesman for the image, attracting dealers from all over the country. Smith Barney began to build a new management system and process to open up the 10 billion sales in the future.

2012, the United States and the United States high store pressure, multi brand strategy failure.

2013, Zhou Chengjian welcomed the fourth year of life in his life, and fatally recognized that this is the new starting point of the next 12 year cycle.