Old Clothes Recycling Is Still Not Fully Exploited "Rich Ore".
< p > since March this year, the Swedish fast fashion brand H&M is trying out the "old clothes recycling" project in Shanghai. Customers will pack the old idle a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothes < /a > to the store for recycling, and get a coupon.
H&M stores in Shanghai will pport the old clothes back to Sweden and give it to a local recycling company I:CO for recycling later.
This will bring this company a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > clothing < /a > in the old clothing resources, environmental protection image, promotion and many other benefits.
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How can we recycle? To whom should we recycle? How can we realize the recycling of resources? A case study of an old clothes recycling company named yuan yuan company in Shanghai will show readers how to try to establish the industrial chain of comprehensive utilization of "fashion waste" in China.
Although the company is still in the stage of turning losses into profits, it will be very gratifying if we can give clothes the name of "resources" and not waste these old fashions.
In fact, in the United States, the old clothes recycling of a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/index_c.asp" > garment industry < /a > has just begun.
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< p > though the old clothes recycling is difficult, it can still be an annual ten million ton class, not yet fully developed "rich ore" < /p >.
< p > this scene is repeated in a four storey H&M flagship store in Huaihailu Road, Shanghai. In the morning, the shop assistant just finished finishing the clothes on the rack. A cool customer dressed a cool woman brought a large package of clothes to the store and handed it to the shop assistant, who had a shirt, T-shirt and skirt. It looked eight or nine new, clean and neatly stacked, then threw it into a one meter high recycling bin and handed out a 15% off coupon to her.
The woman shopped around upstairs and downstairs, picked up some clothes, and checked out with coupons.
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< p > from March this year, the fast fashion brand H&M of Sweden tried out the "old clothes recycling" project at the Huaihailu Road store in Shanghai and the Lujiazui Zhengda square store. Before Beyonce hung up the sexy sexy posters for H&M endorsement, the big street window poster on the street was the old clothes recycling project. The green and white cardboard boxes were stamped with "P Longlive".
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< p > many customers in Shanghai are attracted by the "old clothes recycling" plan. They pack and pack their old idle clothes and send them to the store for recycling. Then they get a coupon to buy the latest summer wear that has just been put on the shelves.
Foreign netizens asked their official micro-blog about when their activities would turn to their cities.
According to the plan, the project will be ready for all stores in the country in the second half of the year.
After receiving the old clothes, the store in H&M Shanghai will deliver the old clothes to the warehouse in Kunshan the other day. After someone did a simple sorting job, they shipped back to Sweden and handed it to a local recycling company I:CO for recycling later.
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< p > > a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > Eric /a, chairman of the Recycling Committee (CTR), said: "clothes are the most recyclable items in their homes.
"However, for the Chinese market with an annual output value of 1 trillion and 300 billion, the old clothes recycling is a big problem.
At present, there is still a lack of a mature and mature industrial chain for recycling old clothes.
In Shanghai, a company named yuan yuan started the recycling of old clothes several years ago, but Yuanyuan's company is far from the source of the "fashion waste".
The fast fashion brand with huge market appeal can join in the industry chain and help to make up the weakest link in the old garment recycling industry chain.
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< p > this time, H&M has a wide range of recycling. All a href= "http://www.91se91.com/news/" > clothing "/a" is available for all brands, underwear can also be used, and even a sock can be used.
The response of consumers is also unusually warm.
"On average, they receive fifty or sixty bags of clothes per day and sixty or seventy bags at weekends.
"The manager of Huaihailu Road said.
Behind this most prosperous commercial street in Shanghai, there are still many old houses in Shanghai. Many old Shanghai living there know that they can recycle old clothes, and they will also send them to them. H&M's environmental protection action was initially interpreted as a "sales promotion tool". But the shop manager explained that some elderly people just sent their clothes that were not stored in the house for a long time and did not receive coupons.
"About 50% of customers will choose to use the coupons exchanged for the day to consume."
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< p > it is probably misreading to understand the power of H&M recycling old clothes as promotion needs.
In the new round of fast fashion brand competition, it needs to sacrifice the banner of "environmental protection" as soon as possible.
Compared with Japan's Uniqlo and Spain's Inditex's ZARA, H&M is "late" to the Chinese market.
Since H&M opened its first store in Shanghai in 2007, although it already has 126 stores in China, it still ranks the fast fashion brand.
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< p > H&M net profit in the first quarter of this year dropped by more than 3%.
H&M CEO Carle Persson Karl-Johan said 2013 will be a challenging year. "In many markets of H&M, sales of" a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > dress "/a" retail sales are showing signs of challenging the situation in many markets of the Karl-Johan.
The difficult macroeconomic environment and the bad weather in Europe and North America at the beginning of this quarter are all reasons.
"The Chinese market then becomes the" field of hope "for fashion retailers.
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< p > however, environmental protection has become a stumbling block for the development of H&M in China.
In 2010, H&M was inspecting by the Shanghai quality supervision department and found that a knitted leisure coat pH was unqualified. In January 2012, it was once again "black list" because of the result of a knitted sweater fiber content measurement result inconsistent with the product label.
The old clothes recycling project is clearly intended to reshape the environmental image.
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< p > since 2009, H&M has formulated the sustainable development strategy of "seven commitments", including sustainable clothing recycling projects.
H&M Magnus, general manager of Greater China, Singapore and Malaysia, said in an interview with this magazine that the concept of sustainable development is critical to the future development of H&M company and the continuous growth of profits in Magnus.
Now, 95% of the world's textiles can be recycled, but most of the old clothes are taken to landfill, causing great environmental pollution and waste of resources. This is the original intention of the old clothes recycling plan.
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< p > this project has been implemented in Sweden since 2011.
Between 2011 and 2012, H&M carried out the recycling of old clothes in 17 stores in Sweden.
Progress has been very successful. H&M chief executive Persson has decided to extend the project to the world.
Starting in February 2013, H&M stores in 48 regions of the world began to recycle old clothes. In the Chinese market, the two main stores in Huaihailu Road and Zhengda square started trial operation first.
Huaihailu Road is the first store opened by H&M in China, and is also the largest flagship store in Shanghai.
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In order to highlight the environmental protection elements, stores specially set up an environmental protection clothing area. The most prominent place in the store is the model wearing P Conscious series.
The Conscious Collection was launched in 2010 by the H&M. All the clothes are made of environmentally-friendly fabrics, including organic cotton, renewable polyester, renewable polyester and environmental friendly hemp fiber.
The most amazing work is a water red fashion dress that is recycled from polyester bottles.
According to H&M's data, they have recycled 7 million 900 thousand polyester bottles equivalent to PET bottles.
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H&M, P, knows that designing environmentally friendly materials will greatly reduce the difficulty of breaking the "fashion waste" at the back of the industrial chain, and enable the downstream industry chain to recycle and reuse more effectively.
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< p > at present, the trial results in Shanghai are quite satisfactory. Huaihailu Road's recycling box broke down in the first week, and the clerk had to replace a new one as soon as possible.
They also promised to donate 0.2 yuan to charity for each UNICEF kilogram per kilogram of clothing.
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< p > in fact, the pressure of environmental protection has been overburdened by such a crowded city in Shanghai, with fashionable fashion, numerous clothing brands and street corner full of petty bourgeoisie sentiment.
According to statistics, the annual "clothing waste" produced in Shanghai is 130 thousand tons.
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< p > according to past concepts, charitable and donation routes are the main export of old clothes recycling, which is actually a misreading.
Internationally, donations can only solve about 15% of old clothes in Shanghai, which means less than 20 thousand tons of clothing is donated.
This is far from the total inventory of old clothes in residential areas.
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< p > on the other hand, the popularity of fast fashion exacerbates this gap.
With the improvement of material life, the frequency of people buying clothes increased, and the old clothes that were naturally eliminated increased. However, the civil service departments and charities usually needed winter clothing, down coats, coats, cotton padded clothes and coats to keep out the cold.
For the light and thin clothes with a higher rate of elimination, the traditional poverty alleviation habits are not necessarily necessities, because wearing warm is helping and dressing well.
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< p > > a large number of "a href=" http://www.91se91.com > waste clothes < /a > enter the landfill site, which aggravates the burden of the environment; another part of the fuel enters the brick kiln and other combustion fields, and also pollutes the environment.
"Now people's requirements for fabrics, such as colourful and breathable colors, make the use of single fibers less and less. Only about 10% or 90% of the clothes are made of blended fibers.
"Yang Yinghong, the head of Yuanyuan company, said that because the clothes made of blended fibers can not be separated directly, landfill or combustion will release toxic substances and cause environmental pollution and deterioration.
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During the period of < p > World Expo, Shanghai found itself faced with great environmental pressure.
Since 1980s, municipal solid waste in Shanghai has been stacked in the old port area, that is, the east of Pudong New Area is near the Pudong International Airport.
Residents living in a 25 kilometer area can smell the aftertaste of garbage.
According to the research and classification of the relevant departments, old clothes accounted for 3% to 4%.
Therefore, during the period of World Expo, Shanghai decided to start the old clothes recycling project in Shanghai residential areas.
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The source of "P" in Hongkou, Shanghai, has been reclaiming old clothes from the communities and schools in Shanghai since 2011.
Walking around in the residential area of Shanghai, you can see that there are several iron coated "Panda" recycling bins, which are high with people. The head is < a href= "http://www.91se91.com > clothes > /a > the entrance, and below is the staff pick up.
Such recycling bins have already placed more than 1200 in 990 pilot communities in Shanghai, and 305 tons of old clothes were recycled last year.
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< p > Yang Yinghong, 64, has been responsible for the clothing recycling project since he retired.
After the establishment of Yuanyuan in 2008, after the approval of the Shanghai municipal government, it was mainly engaged in sorting, sorting and regulating the comprehensive utilization of waste clothing.
There are only 25 employees.
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< p > in addition to placing recycling bins in various communities in Shanghai, the appointment and door-to-door collection services have also been opened.
After receiving a reservation call from the residents, there are usually 2 drivers and 1 drivers who come together to pick up their clothes.
Yang said one of his most impressions was that a family of three generations in Yangpu District had to move, giving up 306 kilograms of clothes at once, and "full of trucks."
But this kind of recycling does not cost any money, and residents voluntarily surrender even new clothes.
Therefore, Yang Yinghong said, "the old clothes we recycle are all social public resources, and the reuse of old clothes is actually the redistribution of social surplus value.
< < /p >.
< p > however, in the latest management of renewable resources recycling, waste clothing is still not included in the list of "renewable resources", and how to recycle it. Yang Yinghong's company is also groping for it.
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< p > for clothes that are worth wearing, they will be donated according to domestic practices.
Of the old clothes recycled every month, up to more than 10 tons of sweaters are removed, and about 40% of them will be reopened.
They organized a group of aunts in the community to knit sweaters and sent them to hope primary schools in Shandong, Anhui and Guangxi.
30 thousand sweaters are expected to be donated this year.
Most of the summer wear short sleeves, shirts and trousers will be arranged to send to Africa to help the local poor. "We will be very dignified after being selected, sorted, sterilized and dressed.
"Yang said.
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< p > but for most of the old clothes that can not be worn again, how to realize the recycling of resources is a more challenging subject.
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Less than 70% of the old clothes were classified according to < a href= "http://www.91se91.com" > fabric > /a >: wool, cotton, chemical fiber, blend and a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > Leather > /a > rubber for recycling. The whole process of resource recovery was carried out in Shanghai.
At present, the "waste clothing recycling project" has been included in the 2012-2014 fifth and three year environmental protection action plan of Shanghai as a special item of circular economy and cleaner production in Shanghai.
Textile factories including Shandong and Jiangsu, as well as Uniqlo, Only, Mango and other garment companies are seeking to cooperate with Yuanyuan's old clothes recycling project, establish a recycling industry chain, or solve the inventory problem.
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< p > in the old clothes recycling chain of H&M, the role of Yuanyuan is I:CO, a young technology company in Sweden.
SOEX, the parent company of I:CO, is the largest Swiss group in the world specializing in textiles and a target= "_blank" href= "http://www.91se91.com/" > shoes "/a" class recycling and recycling.
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P I:CO spokeswoman Paul Doertenbach told Chinese entrepreneur magazine that there are five different ways for the company to process waste textiles, including rewear, reuse, recycling, application and upgrading of raw materials.
I:CO has the world's most advanced textile recycling processing plant and an exemplary process control system that enables textile recycling.
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< p > "now the recycling of textiles is more accurate. It should be called" down cycling ", because each link will reduce the quality of materials, and the loss of raw materials is almost irreversible.
"Paul Doertenbach said.
But Doertenbach says I:CO is changing the situation.
"When the original ingredients of a material can be decomposed and reorganized, it means that raw materials can be reused as new materials in the new industry.
"Doertenbach calls it up cycling and believes that only in this way can the garment industry form a truly sustainable cycle.
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< p > I:CO is currently strengthening its cooperation with recycling technology experts, scientific institutions and industry research institutes. Its goal is to find at least one material in each category of recyclables by 2020, and upgrade technology.
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< p > data show that about 10% of the old clothes purchased by I:CO are of good quality, wearable and sterilized into the secondary market, and 30% to 40% are processed as new materials, such as interior materials for automobiles and building materials, carpet lining materials, stuffed stuffed toys, raw materials for paper industry, etc.
There are also some products that have been pformed into equivalent materials, such as rag.
But only 0.3% of these clothes returned to the raw materials of clothing.
Therefore, a spokesman for I:CO concluded that at present, the old clothes that can be downgraded and recycled for 30%-40% are less than 0.3%.
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< p > but it is undeniable that although the old clothes recycling is difficult, it is still a ten million ton class of "rich ore" that has not yet been fully developed.
According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, the United States produced 11 million 340 thousand tons of clothing and household textiles in 2009, and the number will increase to 15 million 870 thousand tons by 2019.
The latest domestic figures from the China Resources Comprehensive Utilization Association are 26 million tons per year; therefore, the sooner participants are, the easier it will be.
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< p > some analysts have pointed out that in the current blank market of domestic recycled clothes, if H&M continues to promote the old clothes recycling project just like smashing subway advertisements, a large part of old clothes will be first recycled by H&M company.
This will bring this a href= "http://www.91se91.com" > clothing company < /a > in the old clothing resources, environmental protection image, promotion and many other benefits.
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